Fungus gnats or WINGED ROOT APHIDS???

[Weezard]

Weezard has been claiming this works since at least 2011. He had a thread going somewhere else on it. Other folks took his advice and all reported great success. Keeps spider mites at bay as well. Sure he'll elaborate for us. Dryer sheets, gonna wrap my mommies up like mummys lol.

Now hold on there, that's not right.
I have no evidence that the mites give a sheet about them sheets.

I do occasionally see a leaf with mite bites, but when I investigate, they are usually gone, something has already eaten them.
Therein lies a tale.

5 years ago, I was using tanglefoot, and moats to keep the ants off my plants.
Because, back on the mainland in Ca, the ants were aphid ranchers.
They would bring their "cows" to graze on my weed.

Here, is quite different. When one of dem ants tried to eat a hole in my leg, I took a closer look.

Under a scope, they look fierce, Those mandible were obviously those of a predator!
Did some research and found that they are an invasive species brought here by the Sugarcane farms to control cane borers.

So I put them to work as my mite minions.
Removed the moats, stopped with the tanglefoot and hung out a welcome sign that said, No poisons on these plants.

They patrol my crop all day long and I've actually seen them gobbling mites.
Some days, you eat the bear, yah?

Aloha,
Weeze

 

[StankyBeamer]

Quick question. I know you stated you used sand without success. The photos you posted at the beginning of this thread are suppose to have sand on them? Or was that before you added any? Just thought I would ask.

The dryer sheets sound like a fun way to go about keeping other bugs at bay. Glad to know. I too hope Weezard drops back in with more knowledge.

Ive never posted a pic of a container with sand on the soil. I've tried it on a single plant, and found it to make watering a pain in the ass and it ruined my drainage, and held moisture in the soil for way too long leading to pythium. Never posted a pic of that mess, you probably saw diatomaceous earth in one of my pics, tried that as well to no avail. I got rid of my gnats without either. Little bit of neem, little pyrethrin, problem solved.

 

[Sluicebox]

Sorry didn't mean to misquote you. Hey what about the holes in the bottom of the pot? I hit my ladies yesterday with Go Gnatz, then frass today and DE and hung dryer sheets all over the place including in my scrog nets. I put one on top of every container as well as one under it. I put up yellow sticky traps, nothing on them so far. Yesterday though I saw more than one flyer go in through holes in bottom of pot. I wonder if a nylon net would keep them out? I don't know any one with legs that big, have to go to store and see what they have.

 

[Mikell]

Dryer sheets and warrior ants? Bit of the definition of an out of the box thinker Wheezard I enjoyed reading that post.

 

[McKush]

I dont think it was weezard who had the thread. I found this by zeke99 on the subject of dryer sheets

https://www.icmag.com/ic/showthread.php?threadid=217850

 

[Weezard]

I dont think it was weezard who had the thread. I found this by zeke99 on the subject of dryer sheets

https://www.icmag.com/ic/showthread.php?threadid=217850

Quite right! First time I've seen that thread.

Two major points.
First, Bounce, is disgusting, I won't allow it in my house.

2nd., the poster appears to be unclear on the concept of screening the soil to prevent egg laying and flyer hatching.

These thing are not magic. Proper application is required.
And with the unscented sheets there is no odor, or taste transfer to the end product

Again, it is not the crappy perfume that repels FGs, it is the almost odorless surfactants.

Just bought a new microscope for bud inspection.
It's a treat to see no bugs, frass, skin sheds, etc., on newly harvested bud.


And I'm a scent maven.
Love the various terpene aromas and will not tolerate anything that screws them up.
Same goes for taste. You will never find Neem products anywhere near my grows for just that reason.
Well, that, and the following.

The reason that I research prevention rather than control is simple.
Most of my meds, are rendered into concentrates, RSO, and bubble hash.
Concentrating toxic residue can not be tolerated.
Some of my "patients have compromised immune systems, and I seem to have an allergic reaction to The Aza* family of pesticides even in trace amounts.

What got me looking into dryer sheets was a magazine article that said they repel mosquitoes.
Now, I'm off to read that PDF.

Mahalo,
Weeze

 

[stoner51]

Aphids or not?

Aphids or not?

I have been through this entire thread and yes I do have root aphids and am going with the orthene/riptide combo because I want these bastards gone like yesterday.

I don't usually post a lot but this thread got my full attention. First I want to thank eclipsefour20 for his research on this combo.[FONT=Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif] E clipseFour20[/FONT] [FONT=Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif] EclipseFour20[/FONT][FONT=Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif] EclipseFour20[/FONT]
Also I want to make a few comments.

First you can get RAs in coco that is where mine came from. Never had a problem in high pressure aero for three years, switched to coco for a bit and bam! A few plants didn't look right or yield like they should or yield well but thought maybe I forgot how to grow or something.

Went back to aero and that's where I found them when I started seeing crazy lockout symptoms and early die off.

Just did the first drench this a.m. and plants look fine. Pretty easy to dunk in aeroponics if the plants are not too big.

I also did some research please take a second to read what I found on Wikipedia

From:https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Aphid
Most aphids have a pair of cornicles (or "siphunculi"), abdominal tubes through which they exude droplets of a quick-hardening defensive fluid[8] containing triacylglycerols, called cornicle wax.

Relation to phylloxera and adelgids

Aphids, adelgids, and phylloxerids are very closely related, and are all within the suborder Sternorrhyncha, the plant-sucking bugs. They are either placed in the insect superfamily Aphidoidea[5] or into the superfamily Phylloxeroidea which contains the family Adelgidae and the family Phylloxeridae.[6]

Like aphids, phylloxera feed on the roots, leaves, and shoots of grape plants, but unlike aphids, do not produce honeydew or cornicle secretions.[7] Phylloxera (Daktulosphaira vitifoliae) are insects which caused the great French wine blight that devastated European viticulture in the 19th century.

Similarly, adelgids also feed on plant phloem. Adelgids are sometimes described as aphids, but are more properly classified as aphid-like insects, because they have no cauda or cornicles.[1]

PLEASE NOTICE NOT ALL APHIDS HAVE CORNICLES as in "Most aphids have a pair of cornicles" Phyloxera doesn't and it is closely related and others I read have pores instead.

What this means is many on this thread may actually have RAs even though no tail pipes are showing!

Since there are over 4000 different kinds of aphids I wouldn't rule a bug out just on the basis of whether it has tail pipes. As stated phylloxera is one of the most devastating members of the aphid family and has no cornicles.

 

[Kygiacomo!!!]

i have posted this pics before but not sure if it was in this thread. this was full strenght ogbiowar in the pics. i also have been looking into this to add to my IPM "Azatin O Biological Insecticide-OMRI-4.5% Azadirachtin" have u guys tried this? i am gonna use it for CAT control along with Dipel 54% BTK.

 

[Terpz]

i have posted this pics before but not sure if it was in this thread. this was full strenght ogbiowar in the pics. i also have been looking into this to add to my IPM "Azatin O Biological Insecticide-OMRI-4.5% Azadirachtin" have u guys tried this? i am gonna use it for CAT control along with Dipel 54% BTK.[URL=https://www.icmag.com/ic/picture.php?albumid=60741&pictureid=1524962&thumb=1]View Image[/url] [URL=https://www.icmag.com/ic/picture.php?albumid=60741&pictureid=1524964&thumb=1]View Image[/url] [URL=https://www.icmag.com/ic/picture.php?albumid=60741&pictureid=1524963&thumb=1]View Image[/url] [URL=https://www.icmag.com/ic/picture.php?albumid=60741&pictureid=1524965&thumb=1]View Image[/url] [URL=https://www.icmag.com/ic/picture.php?albumid=60741&pictureid=1524966&thumb=1]View Image[/url]

Azadirachtin (Azamax, Azatrol) is a great additive. I personally like to use it as a root drench. 2ml/gal on seedlings/clones and slowly up the dosage from there.. I use with every watering in veg. Good Luck!

 

[Kygiacomo!!!]

Azadirachtin (Azamax, Azatrol) is a great additive. I personally like to use it as a root drench. 2ml/gal on seedlings/clones and slowly up the dosage from there.. I use with every watering in veg. Good Luck!

hey terpz i have never tried azamax but seen good reports on it..i personally am gonna go with the 3% Aza product this year. i will use karanja oil and neem in veg since i have a quart of each left. i like to root drench the neem and spray the karanja oil. i like karanja oil bc its alot easier to mix then neem oil and it has a lovely smell to it which neem dont. im gonna be using the water soluble Aza 3% product next year though. Granger said hes used azasol and its far superior. I also am adding Ez-wet SE which also helps kill insects and is a spreader sticker. it also helps the soil stay moisturized.

Edit: this is my IPM for leaf eating/piercing pests and not RA.

 

[thesloppy]

Personally, Azamax fucked up my aphids, they didn't look exactly as above, because they were in DWC buckets, but they were mutated and gross and scattered, dying all over my buckets looking gross. Unfortunately, they were the same a week later, which sounds alright, but the point is they were still there, even if most of them were gross, dying mutants. After Imid/soap/ozone they just weren't there. Azamax probably helped to weaken and thin them out, though.

 

[Granger2]

To clarify: Use a water soluble form of Azadiractin. They are superior to oil soluble forms, such as Azatrol. Easier to mix and use, more systemic, no phytotoxicity, much longer shelf life. With any form use a wetting agent. I have no way of knowing if Azasol is better than other forms of water soluble Az. Good luck. -granger

Quick notes: Dipel and other forms of BT or BTi have no effect on RA's, especially since most of their reproduction is by adults giving live birth to already pregnant females. BT only works on worms[larvae]/caterpillars. It works well on FG's. Neem/Azdir. works as an antifeedant, repellent, ovicide, anti-moltant [as they grow, their own shell crushes them]. Seldom does a quick kill. OGBiowar does not give a quick kill. Insects are attacked by at least 2 fungi and die slowly. So if you apply OGBW don't expect the RA's to disappear overnight.

 

[Kygiacomo!!!]

To clarify: Use a water soluble form of Azadiractin. They are superior to oil soluble forms, such as Azatrol. Easier to mix and use, more systemic, no phytotoxicity, much longer shelf life. With any form use a wetting agent. I have no way of knowing if Azasol is better than other forms of water soluble Az. Good luck. -granger

Quick notes: Dipel and other forms of BT or BTi have no effect on RA's, especially since most of their reproduction is by adults giving live birth to already pregnant females. BT only works on worms[larvae]/caterpillars. It works well on FG's. Neem/Azdir. works as an antifeedant, repellent, ovicide, anti-moltant [as they grow, their own shell crushes them]. Seldom does a quick kill. OGBiowar does not give a quick kill. Insects are attacked by at least 2 fungi and die slowly. So if you apply OGBW don't expect the RA's to disappear overnight.

im using Dipel for Caterpillars only. i should have made it more clear that was the intended purpose. good post as always granger

 

[Sluicebox]

Terpz,,,So I take it you have no bug problems after using that?

 

[Sluicebox]

I've been up all night reading this thread. Early on everyone said Imid Bayer citrus in veg. I'm still in veg but not for long. RAs for sure little tail pipes. Nothing I've tried touches them. Have at least 70+days to leach it out. Will it still test positive? Thanks for your input. I will continue reading thread but on way to get some now. Please let me know.

 

[who dat is]

I've been up all night reading this thread. Early on everyone said Imid Bayer citrus in veg. I'm still in veg but not for long. RAs for sure little tail pipes. Nothing I've tried touches them. Have at least 70+days to leach it out. Will it still test positive? Thanks for your input. I will continue reading thread but on way to get some now. Please let me know.

Yes it will still be present. Imid has a very long halflife and there are better options these days over the Bayer.

 

[Sluicebox]

Thanks for the reply Who dat is. I did pick some up but will be leaving soon to take it back to store. Why mess around. I don't want to smoke it and I would never pass something like that onto others either.

I did get some Ortho Home defence spray, and got the lil bastards that were out of the pots, instant death to the crawlers and the fliers.

My set up is #5 pots Fox Farm Ocean cut with high 5. 3/4 ffoc to 1/4 high 5, hand water. I built tables on casters 4'x4' with 2x4 sides, then lines with 7 mil plastic. I installed scrog net and pvc frame so they are rolling scrog nets that hold 4 pots each. In the bottom of the tables are thousands of the young ones running around and I hit them with the Home defense, It nuked em. I sprayed the outside of the pots (hard pots) with it as well. Recently Weezard said to use dryer sheets. I did that covering the top of the soil so they couldn't fly in and land in dirt. Today I noticed about 7-8 crawling on the sheets. I said f' it and sprayed the sheets too. Somewhere way back in this thread it was posted to use that as a dunk. I didn't do that yet but did pick up the granules in case I could get confirmation on it's usage.

If someone could tell me roughly which page to start at for a shortcut to this thread I would really appreciate it. I hit this thread hard and only got in 21 pages, due to taking notes and searching links. Would take me a month to read all of this and by then I'm truly screwed. Plants were supposed to flip today, keeping them in veg till I figure this out.

F''k dirty cuttings, and f''k bagged dirt. I'm cooking my dirt from now on. Just about to order clone king 36 site and will take cuts dip in Iso alcohol rinse with water and bag in fridge till it gets here. Tossing out my young clones in rock wool cubes not using that anymore. Aero cloner then to perlite from now on I think.

 

[Granger2]

Sluice,
Probably the last 10-15 pages will do you. A lot of the early info was from when we were all in a WTF? mode. Didn't know what we were dealing with. You can take another short cut by searching the thread for my posts and eclipse420's posts, if that's not too too egotistical of me. Good luck. -granger

 

[Sluicebox]

Thank you Granger2, No not at all egotistical, I see that you were on this thread way back in the beginning if I remember right. I will take your advice and do just that.

 

[Terpz]

I grow in organic soil where flying pest are a known problem. Anytime I transplant (bring new soil into the garden) I treat with a root drench of Azatrol, GoGnats and 1/4tsp/gal food grade diatomaceous earth (cont. azatrol and DE with every watering through veg). I also use the yellow sticky traps, more or less as a score card for my reference. Every once-in-a-while I see a few flyers but never had a full blown RA infestation/ major problem with this method. As for which aza product is the best... I would be open to suggestions. Azatrol is cheaper than Azamax and works just as well, imo. I was looking into the powdered aza awhile back, as I thought it could be applied at a heavier % concentration.. I ended up finding out they are all 1.2% concentration in the end.