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Fungus gnats or WINGED ROOT APHIDS???

medicalmj

Active member
Veteran
thanks for the reply sir. are those beneficial then? I was thinking if I had high populations of those, they must be there cause they are eating something right?
Sorry about the late response...but to answer, in nature they are vital to life on this planet. However it has been my experience that large populations often indicate some sort of imbalance such as high levels of dead matter(roots), bacteria or fungus. And often that means root rot is the "root" cause, sorry about the pun, been doing to many kaizens hahaha. So large populations are not harmful but you may have a bacteria or fungus issue. So don't go after them, find the real cause.
 

Miraculous Meds

Well-known member
Sorry about the late response...but to answer, in nature they are vital to life on this planet. However it has been my experience that large populations often indicate some sort of imbalance such as high levels of dead matter(roots), bacteria or fungus. And often that means root rot is the "root" cause, sorry about the pun, been doing to many kaizens hahaha. So large populations are not harmful but you may have a bacteria or fungus issue. So don't go after them, find the real cause.

Bingo, mj.... I been dealing with bouts of pm, n some leaf fungus that I believe all stems from poor root health. probably pythium related brought in by the fg infestation. then comes in the soil mites to clean up the left over decaying root that's been infected.

Im back to being really careful not to overwater. which sucks in coir, cause I ideally like to get the roots dominate n water several times a day. but that's not happening with weakened roots.

Im exploring which ways I want to strengthen the root zone against pythium n the likes. Right now im using actinovate to help. then im going to get back into either a bb tea or a bottled root product. haven't decided which route im going to go with.

any suggestions out there for strengthening the roots in this situation?
 

GET MO

Registered Med User
Veteran
whatchall think is the least favorable grow method for root aphids? (soil, organic soil, coco, rock wool, ect..) And i mean least favorable for them, not for the grower. Maybe i should have just said best gorw method to avoid / easiest to kill them in?
 

GET MO

Registered Med User
Veteran
I got rid of mine in the grow, but then they always pop back up. Even in my house that has never had a grow inside, i see the flyers every once in a while. I see them on the door of my shed on the outside, as if they know theres something in there n they just waiting for me to open up. I been doing weekly ogbiowar teas, top dressing with crab meal neem meal and insect frass, and keeping no pest strips in the veg. so far havent seen them in my grow since early on in my last run. I think they may have been more attracted to the strait coco than the organic premixed stuff.
 

who dat is

Cave Dweller
Veteran
The microbe lift BMC that I ordered and have been using seems to be slipping with its effectiveness. My little plants that I'm so set on saving are stalling and starting to die off again. I ordered some MET52EC and I'm hoping that will take care of them. Otherwise it's back to trying the Orthene + Riptide combo but I feel like that almost killed them with just that treatment alone. Fuck Root Aphids.
 

StankyBeamer

Professional A$$hole
For those of you struggling with resistant fungus gnats, I think I got it figured out. Mine have been completely resistant to bti, been using dunks and mosquito bits with every feeding for a month. A couple plants started to show signs of pythium and the gnats spread it and made things worse, so at my wits end I decided to mix up some permethrin, sprayed the tops of all containers, as well as the unused bin full of coco
Didn't see a single gnat for three days, until some larvae started maturing. So I figure if I spray every other day, eventually there will have been no fliers for long enough that there will no longer be larvae. Also I used a strong mix of h2o2, followed by an inoculation with actinovate a few days later, and hygrozyme after that. It's too early to say for sure, but my skywalker mom in veg looked the worst from the root rot, it now looks pretty happy
 

Lyfespan

Active member
The microbe lift BMC that I ordered and have been using seems to be slipping with its effectiveness. My little plants that I'm so set on saving are stalling and starting to die off again. I ordered some MET52EC and I'm hoping that will take care of them. Otherwise it's back to trying the Orthene + Riptide combo but I feel like that almost killed them with just that treatment alone. Fuck Root Aphids.

doesnt Merit75 work for fliers and their larve?
 

Dr.King

Member
Veteran
For those of you struggling with resistant fungus gnats, I think I got it figured out. Mine have been completely resistant to bti, been using dunks and mosquito bits with every feeding for a month. A couple plants started to show signs of pythium and the gnats spread it and made things worse, so at my wits end I decided to mix up some permethrin, sprayed the tops of all containers, as well as the unused bin full of coco
Didn't see a single gnat for three days, until some larvae started maturing. So I figure if I spray every other day, eventually there will have been no fliers for long enough that there will no longer be larvae. Also I used a strong mix of h2o2, followed by an inoculation with actinovate a few days later, and hygrozyme after that. It's too early to say for sure, but my skywalker mom in veg looked the worst from the root rot, it now looks pretty happy

Not to single you out but I notice you are having troubles with gnats which I can understand as I had them. I really do hope this helps a lot of people with flying insects and larvae problems.

Just add 2-3 inches of plain sand on top of your growing medium and that is all it will take to destroy their whole colony. That sand is super dry and hotter to insects then it is to humans. They will no longer be able to lay any eggs and will all die off within 2 weeks depending on the out break. Plain sand is really cheap and never changes my watering times. I too use coco. Good luck everyone :tiphat:.
 

StankyBeamer

Professional A$$hole
This has been advised so many times in this thread, I've tried diatomaceous earth and sand both at different times, all it did was slow them down. And before you say you think that means I'm mistaking flying root aphids, they are without a doubt gnats. I've checked every container for aphid crawlers, none. But the sand didn't prove effective in my circumstances. What's working for me is a rotation of pyrethrin, permethrin, and insecticidal soap sprayed on top of all containers, and Kontos watered in for systemic control as it is the only systemic I've seen that is rated for gnat larvae
 

Dr.King

Member
Veteran
This has been advised so many times in this thread, I've tried diatomaceous earth and sand both at different times, all it did was slow them down. And before you say you think that means I'm mistaking flying root aphids, they are without a doubt gnats. I've checked every container for aphid crawlers, none. But the sand didn't prove effective in my circumstances. What's working for me is a rotation of pyrethrin, permethrin, and insecticidal soap sprayed on top of all containers, and Kontos watered in for systemic control as it is the only systemic I've seen that is rated for gnat larvae

My advice would be add more sand and don't use diatomaceous earth. I've had multiple break outs and if you add enough sand it is IMPOSSIBLE for a gnat to lay a larvae egg. How it isn't working for you is beyond my knowledge...
 

Lyfespan

Active member
This has been advised so many times in this thread, I've tried diatomaceous earth and sand both at different times, all it did was slow them down. And before you say you think that means I'm mistaking flying root aphids, they are without a doubt gnats. I've checked every container for aphid crawlers, none. But the sand didn't prove effective in my circumstances. What's working for me is a rotation of pyrethrin, permethrin, and insecticidal soap sprayed on top of all containers, and Kontos watered in for systemic control as it is the only systemic I've seen that is rated for gnat larvae

i swear azamax, and sns 209 are also systemic flyer and larve controls
 

Lyfespan

Active member
take this http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004FWO046?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o09_s00

use one of these http://www.amazon.com/Dyco-Paints-MER00015-Brush-Applicator/dp/B003CXLKUQ/ref=sr_1_10?ie=UTF8&qid=1444214397&sr=8-10&keywords=chip+brush

apply it to the outside of these setting upside down, leaving a lil area around the top so you can grab the fuckers.http://www.amazon.com/Hanna-K-Signature-Collection-16-Ounce/dp/B00J4JWI1C/ref=sr_1_16?ie=UTF8&qid=1444214315&sr=8-16&keywords=green+party+cups

yellow for white flies
green and orange for thirps and fungus gnats
blue and purple colored cups failed, havent tried pink yet.


and this is what you are making https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4F4qzPbcFiA
:tiphat::biggrin:
 

Lyfespan

Active member
My advice would be add more sand and don't use diatomaceous earth. I've had multiple break outs and if you add enough sand it is IMPOSSIBLE for a gnat to lay a larvae egg. How it isn't working for you is beyond my knowledge...

why not use DE, DE is a great defense and free silica?
 
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