Fungus gnats or WINGED ROOT APHIDS???

[RedBeardy5]

so we used to orthene at work on rockwool, perlite, and dirt. It looks like the larger the pot and rootmass the less damage done. It took a week for the burning to start everytime and progressed for at least a week. I don't know how you guys don't get burn, but use orthene with caution. On a good note it wiped the aphids out.

 

[Granger2]

Normally, eclipse recommended 2 treatments a week apart, but since you're so far into bloom, I'd just use the one. If you have another outbreak, drench with the pyrethrum, and that should get you thru to harvest. You don't have to be completely bug free for a successful crop. Next run take all precautions, and do 2 treatments in veg. Be sure to do area sprays [walls, floor, doors, containers incl bottoms]. The first time I ever saw an RA was in a pot of OF Happy Frog. I have never brought clones in from anywhere. Good luck. -granger

 

[DONAJTHEIII]

That's when I did my treatments. I posted results early that were positive, n then a few days later I posted the burn results.

I used food anyway cause im in coir n u don't flush out the cec in coir, otherwise it will mess up ur plants.

I think there was a revelation of getting runoff after the treatment. I believe that's what helped most with reducing burn. just my experience with it. take it as u will.

Happy Turkey day, my bug fighting cannabi brothers!

Hey mirac ! good to be back


sorry bro going to have to disagree with the plain water feed messing up the cec of the coco unless you keep on doing it one feed after the other.

Idk if its different since i dont use RO but every like 14days or so Ill do a plain water feed with my tap that sits around a little under 150ppm. Were in a drought where im at so no ro for me. I dont run countless amounts of tap water through my coco but my ladies like a day of just plain water feed especially with salty nutes. Maybe RO water would cause me problems. If anything Ill see calcium problems if I dont do this in my set up as Ill get an excess build up of nitrogen effecting the uptake of my CA ! I keep my ppms low now and feed constantly with an onccasional plain water feed. Works fine for me It would take a week or more of plain water in my set up to have my ladys start showing problems yellowing etc.



Anyways back to the topic lol


I always runoff with any root drench application. I flood the shit out my coco and dont ever mix my nutes with the application of any of that stuff. Make sure to do the proper dosage and proper application of pesticides is key to success and reducing the amnt of stress.


Just me 2 cents happy to see everyone feels good being back.

 

[Zarezhu]

Hey guys, Im really hoping I can get some help here.

A friend of mine, an old timer that started me with my first clones many years ago, had some problems with his full season outdoor crop last year. When he pulled a lot of his plants, the stalks came out with no roots attached. I was assuming overwatering/root rot. This year, his plants were smaller than usual , so they didn't drink as heavily. He has a fairly high clay garden that retains a good amount of water.

He found tiny white bugs moving around in the soil, and is POSITIVE they're TERMITES, even though I'm sure he's too blind to be able to see em clearly. I for one, don't think its termites. POSSIBLY WRA.

Would it be safe for him, and his COMPLETELY ORGANIC GARDEN, to drench his spot (30' x 40' of tilled soil, same spot for 8 years), with imid right now? He doesn't ever use harsh chemicals, but I feel it necesarry to kill any terrible bugs in the soil. Would the imid be long gone before late april, when he plugs his new plants into the ground?

i'm also going to convince him to drench his entire garden in some type of enzyme product,and help decompose the years and years of dead roots/dog/kitchen scraps/leaves/fish.

 

[Mikell]

Imidacloprid breaks down in soil very slowly. Depending on concentration and amount applied it can take anywhere from 1-2 years to break down significantly. Plants will continue to uptake residue during this period and in turn anyone consuming produce or cannabis grown from the soil.

As you have stated he is a completely organic grower I don't think this is the direction he wants to go.

Without a good photograph or very detailed description (which relies on someone else's memories...) you aren't likely to get an ID (the most important step of all).

Staying withing the confines of how he wants to grow, I would apply mulch, water in predatory nematodes and follow with an inocculation of beneficial microbes (tea, or I suppose packaged if you wipe your arse with money). If this is the result of overwatering (rain or hand) leading to rot, none of this is likely to be much benefit until that is resolved.

As well, imid would wipe out most if not all detritivores and increase this perceived problem with decomposing organic matter.

There is nothing wrong with slow decomposition, although scraps shouldn't be applied through out the season. If you want to help in a more natural way, apply compost teas a few times during the season and make sure mulch layers are thick. The protection from the sun and increased moisture on the surface will increase the amount of worms and critters that breakdown large bits of organic matter, which in turn are consumed by microbes. Build a compost bin if he doesn't already have one (to discourage this raw scraps in the soil business ) and turn it for him every other week.

Old men love nothing more than when someone who wasen't even born when they started _______ (insert anything) tries to tell them what they're doing wrong and raves on about the latest and greatest whoo-hah that will revolutionize everything.

As the above statement is a load of pure bullshit, tread softly It doesn't even matter if you're right, for most of them it's the principle of the situation. I doubt we'll be any different.

I've met plenty of grey hairs that grow extremely healthy plants from fishheads, guts and all other sorts of malarkey.

 

[StankyBeamer]

Kontos and pyrethrin were way more effective for me than imidacloprid, shit didn't even phase em at my place. Bi-monthly kontos drench in veg and they've never come back.

 

[_tessarecting]

What doses are you doing for the orthene / riptide combo?
Same as directed/sprayed but drench?
Drench just means water into the soil?

 

[StankyBeamer]

I'm not 100%, but I think it's 2.5g orthene/2.5ml riptide per gallon. I ended up using closer to 3g of orthene per gallon, but I'm in coco, doesn't seem to burn em as bad

 

[_tessarecting]

Riptide is 5%, I have some monterrey bug blast @ 1.86%, im wondering if this will be ok or if I can/should double dose it

 

[Sluicebox]

Update to Orthene/Riptide dunk. After 7 days I still have no burn, no crawlers. Did see a flier. I imagine now the cycle will repeat. Lights are still high, plants still show improvement. Starting to feed them again and lowering lights.This will be 6 days into flower now. In my nursery I had treated younger cuts that were in 16oz solo cups. I noticed them leaning toward a burn. This backs up what was stated above that smaller root balls tend to burn more. I transplanted into 1 gal with baked ffof and now looking great. Note the roots at transplant were no longer nice and white. I don't know if the orthene turned them brown or if that was solely from RA's. They were white prior to treatment.

 

[Sluicebox]

Riptide is 5%, I have some monterrey bug blast @ 1.86%, im wondering if this will be ok or if I can/should double dose it

I'd recommend you order 1/2 gal Riptide on ebay, worth it. Kinda spendy I know, but I searched and found one for nearly half the asking price as other sellers. You will have it fast and it works. 2.3g Orthene, 2.5ml Riptide per gal H2O. If you add a few drops dish soap it will act as a wetting agent. Do a 20 min dunk not a drench, I did both watering it in from top while whole pot was soaking. Only able to get with in 2" of top or pot tips over. I used neem in an attempt to get the ones crawling up stem. You have to get the ones hiding under the crown of the root ball and lip of the pot. Don't get it on your skin. Can't stress that last part enough. Post your results, good luck.

 

[StankyBeamer]

Second that, the bastards hide right under the root ball, it creates an air pocket that water flows around unless you submerge the whole container

 

[Sluicebox]

I'm not the one who came up with that formula. Credit needs to go to "Eclipse420", and "Granger2" for turning me onto it. Some strains respond better than others. I have a fire og kush that is struggling, green and all but growth is slow and puney. Bummer is that takes up almost half my run. 4 other strains look pretty nice.

 

[StankyBeamer]

Yeah eclipse and granger have been lifesavers in the past year or so. Many thanks. Probably wouldn't be growing crawler free right now if it weren't for icmag

 

[Sluicebox]

Completely agree with you there Beamer, tons of info in here. Saves time and money trying to learn on your own. 6-8 months of shit shows this year have nearly killed me. After this treatment things looked great till I fed, now seeing a bit of burn on the bigger ones. All of those have small leaves like bonsai plants now. Going to try cal/mag and thrive + light nutes. If that doesn't fix then I'm pitching them. Should just fn do it anyway. New set is in 1 gal's and starting to take off. So beings how I'm only at day 7 flower I should be turning next set down within 3 wks and get a good show vs running these at likely 60% due to the beating they took from RA's. Probably give it another 10 days and see if they turn around. Fk those bugs and cuts from so called pro's. I have another 16 cuts rooted in solo cups that I was going to let go of to people. But being that I had a problem and not completely positive that it's fixed, no way. I'm done giving away cuts. I wouldn't wish these on my worst enemy, due to Karma of course.

Edit: I added cal/mag and humic acid not thrive due to N. Response showed within hours back to being happy. Figure all those treatments locked up the soil. I'm done posting on it, don't take any of my advice as this is my first crack at this bug. Others have figured it out and have successfully dealt with it. Good luck.

 

[xxxstr8edgexxx]

heres another chem free recommendation. my homie had them and decided to take either a milliliter or half mililiter per gallon of oregano essential oil. sorry i forgot now which he said. added normal amount of soap to mix it in. prolly not more than a 0.5 -1.0 teaspoon per gallon. did a root drench very thorough on smaller pots. maybe do a soak as eclipse describes on bigger pots to ensure soaking of center of large root balls. he did this twice and hasnt seen them in over a year. i cant seak personally as i didnt id his root aphids and i didnt participate. but he swears he had em and i beleive him. he has a scope and is a smart dude. hes helped other growers who i know for a fact had them so i know he know what they look like. they gave it to him actually lol. his grow doesnt have them. ive been in there and he doesnt do anything to keep at bay so they would be bacjk if they lingered. he did clean too. it was a big sweep but he is convinced it worked. seems like hes right. at any rate even if it doesnt turn out quite the miracle cure for you its worth a try as a part of a way to at least make them harmless as you wait to harvest. better than imid week 6. its at least safe.

 

[xxxstr8edgexxx]

i will say as a gardener in oregon who has test done regualrly on mine and others herb, imid and pbo both show up long after the grow treated. those dont break down in grow rooms like they do in nature so youll be bummed if you have to get tested to sell it.

 

[StankyBeamer]

How'd the soap do with the roots? I read it's really inefficient because the soap gets filtered so much by the soil, and someone told me any soap on the roots would burn super easy, so I stayed away from that route. Thankfully I never sprayed imidacloprid when I used it last year, only watered in, and that crop is long gone. There's pbo in the pyrethrin products I use, and I've got a routine to keep the mite chems relatively contained when I spray. I think chems are great to get to bug free, not ideal to use to stay that way. Organic ipm all day once you're under control

 

[Sluicebox]

i will say as a gardener in oregon who has test done regualrly on mine and others herb, imid and pbo both show up long after the grow treated. those dont break down in grow rooms like they do in nature so youll be bummed if you have to get tested to sell it.

Great, so pbo is legal in all our other food crops but not our herb? I swear that this is just a scheme to allow Monsanto to swoop in and give us frankenbud that they own and control. I figured that OR would test for imid and I'm good with that but pbo? That's in nearly everything.

Edit: deleted political rant.


I would be real interested ( Edit: in trying) that oil recipe that you posted above. Yep I wrote it down and getting ingredients asap.

 

[xxxstr8edgexxx]

i just wrote it
didnt i?