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Fungus gnats or WINGED ROOT APHIDS???

Helloguy

New member
ur gonna have to play the game of adjusting ur watering/feeding frequency with the plants demands. which might be much less if the root system is seriously damaged.

merit is 75% imid correct? If so its systemic n takes time to kill n has a residual effect. so no more merit is needed. what u can do is contact killers n fly traps n sprays for the adults. simple sprays like pyrethrin, safer soap, neem, all kill fg on contact with ease. put yellow sticky traps at soil level to trap adults, n regular fly paper around the room to trap more. spray the soil surface with the contact killer spray, as adults n larvae hang out there. then root drench with a contact killer. spectracide works good. so do any of those others. but the specific larvae killer of choice is bti since its a biological n effective for gnat larvae. Normally I used to use mosquito bits n dunks which contain 8 to 10% bti. but they didn't work on my recent infestation, maybe because it was too over populated. so I did the ra treatment, which wiped out whatever soil critter I had crawling in the pots along with the fg larvae. but I also got the Cadillac of bti, which is gnatrol, its 38%bti. very highly effective for high populations with no chems needed if all u have is fg's.

Would you recommend I flush with clearex before I begin feeding regular nutes again? Also, should I use h202 maybe once a week? I'm a total newb. All your input and advice is highly appreciated . Please save me! Lol
 

Miraculous Meds

Well-known member
Would you recommend I flush with clearex before I begin feeding regular nutes again? Also, should I use h202 maybe once a week? I'm a total newb. All your input and advice is highly appreciated . Please save me! Lol

what medium are u in?

U should treat them like normal. let them go thru their dry cycle before watering again. clearex is for a final flush or if u over fertilized to help pull nutes out.

h202 not needed. it has some applications but, not for ra or fg. if u have algae, which is a food source for fg, then that would be one application for it. Do a search to look for safe levels. I never got into using it much. the real keys to algae control are light proofing ur res, n everything, and not over watering.

Pics would help ur situation. also details of the grow. if u read mynamestiches thread, its great for diagnosis, n it has a form of questions that will help u get the details written in a post so someone can better help u.
 

Helloguy

New member
what medium are u in?

U should treat them like normal. let them go thru their dry cycle before watering again. clearex is for a final flush or if u over fertilized to help pull nutes out.

h202 not needed. it has some applications but, not for ra or fg. if u have algae, which is a food source for fg, then that would be one application for it. Do a search to look for safe levels. I never got into using it much. the real keys to algae control are light proofing ur res, n everything, and not over watering.

Pics would help ur situation. also details of the grow. if u read mynamestiches thread, its great for diagnosis, n it has a form of questions that will help u get the details written in a post so someone can better help u.


I have mine in 6" rockwool cubes. They do have a bit of a blackish greenish color on top of the cubes.
 

Miraculous Meds

Well-known member
I have mine in 6" rockwool cubes. They do have a bit of a blackish greenish color on top of the cubes.

try covering the top of the cubes so u reduce light hitting it n growing algae. ive used panda plastic or block covers for this, but anything that's not gonna mold n will cover the light will do.

u might be able to use h2o2 to reduce the algae. use the search button to find a thread showing safe levels.

Do u have a ppm n ph meter? If so water thru, when the medium lightens up in weight compared to totally saturated. so feel a cube completely dry, the feel the weight of one completely saturated, now u will better know when they are drying up n need watering. when the roots are full in the medium n the plant is thriving u can increase waterings to accommodate the plants needs.

to check ur mediums salt levels, water thru with 1.2ec/600ppm/5.8ph base nutrient till u collect about 15 to 20% runoff. Now check the ppm/ph of the runoff and adjust or flush if necessary. Ive found that 1.2ec is plenty of nutrient strength for all plant stages. So if ur running much past 2ec/1000ppm, I like to use half strength nutrients or .5ec or so, n flush till it comes out close to 1.2ec. on ph it can fluctuate from 5.5 to 6.5 without problems. if it starts getting past that, use 5.5 to 6ph nutrient water n flush till u reach within 5.5 to 6ph area.

If u want more help than fg/ra info, make u a thread n ask for help in it. maybe a thread in the infirmary for plant health probs, n for general grow help, maybe a thread in the specific area of how ur growing. for example rockwool info should be found in the hydro section. so indoor hydro section might be a good place for those type of questions.

good luck bud.
 

who dat is

Cave Dweller
Veteran
I saw post #1976 on here that EclipseFour20 posted mentioning using the orthene + riptide combo. I was hoping somebody else had experience with this. I was using the OG Biowar root zone pack and then the foliar. I don't think it had much of an impact on these guys. I also top dressed with Neem meal and I saw one of them walking along the top of it. 0 fucks given I guess. I'm pretty sure that they are the Foxglove Aphid.

5680760188_7fdea8bf13_b.jpg


I won't even consider Imid for the horrifically long half life. I don't want to use chems but I figured that the combo would be a decent compromise. I'm not finding much good info on here about the orthene and riptide combo though. I have to order them both and I figured in the mean time I could be using a neem + lower concentration pyrethrin combo until I can order some. Anybody have any experience with this, info, thoughts?
 

Miraculous Meds

Well-known member
I saw post #1976 on here that EclipseFour20 posted mentioning using the orthene + riptide combo. I was hoping somebody else had experience with this. I was using the OG Biowar root zone pack and then the foliar. I don't think it had much of an impact on these guys. I also top dressed with Neem meal and I saw one of them walking along the top of it. 0 fucks given I guess. I'm pretty sure that they are the Foxglove Aphid.

View Image

I won't even consider Imid for the horrifically long half life. I don't want to use chems but I figured that the combo would be a decent compromise. I'm not finding much good info on here about the orthene and riptide combo though. I have to order them both and I figured in the mean time I could be using a neem + lower concentration pyrethrin combo until I can order some. Anybody have any experience with this, info, thoughts?

Start here. https://www.icmag.com/ic/showpost.php?p=6989583&postcount=3184

and work ur way forward to current. I discuss my experience with eclipses treatment.

I will say after the leaf burn experience that, I would use on the low side of concentration he recommends. also back the lights off for a few days because they become extremely phytotoxic. also I would do a heavy flush the next day to pull some residual concentration out, since after a full day the contact killer will have done the job it could do, and any systemic action will be initiated. so might as well start balancing the medium back out. that's my opinion of how I would do the treatment, if I have to do it again.

half life of orthene is supposed to be around a week. so ideally at least a good 4 to 6 weeks before harvest to be safe.

stormshadow is championing the use of kontos for its ease n effectiveness. when I checked into it, the label says its safe for vegetable transplants. so I take that to mean a crop that's going to be several months away from being consumed.
 

who dat is

Cave Dweller
Veteran
I've been using the OG Biowar and don't know if it's doing anything or not. I'm going to use up what I have left and not fool with it anymore. I wish I had pulled the trigger on the Orthene + Riptide combo but price made me put it off. Now I'm afraid it might be too late for all my little seedlings as it looks like they are getting eaten up. I hit them with a neem oil and pyrethrin combo before I left but I don't think it did much to the aphids. My flowering plants down in the crawlspace don't look like they have been hit yet but I'm sure it's only a matter of time. I plan to at least finish them out to harvest and try to handle the aphids with the combo before I'm at halfway to harvest.
 

Miraculous Meds

Well-known member
I've been using the OG Biowar and don't know if it's doing anything or not. I'm going to use up what I have left and not fool with it anymore. I wish I had pulled the trigger on the Orthene + Riptide combo but price made me put it off. Now I'm afraid it might be too late for all my little seedlings as it looks like they are getting eaten up. I hit them with a neem oil and pyrethrin combo before I left but I don't think it did much to the aphids. My flowering plants down in the crawlspace don't look like they have been hit yet but I'm sure it's only a matter of time. I plan to at least finish them out to harvest and try to handle the aphids with the combo before I'm at halfway to harvest.

u got time to hit them with orthene. its relatively cheap. the high strength pyrethrin costs more than it. get u some n u use the pyrethrin u already have. or if u have a long time before ur gonna flower u can use imid if u chose. u can have that stuff shipped out n in ur hands in days. get on it before its too late.
 

who dat is

Cave Dweller
Veteran
u got time to hit them with orthene. its relatively cheap. the high strength pyrethrin costs more than it. get u some n u use the pyrethrin u already have. or if u have a long time before ur gonna flower u can use imid if u chose. u can have that stuff shipped out n in ur hands in days. get on it before its too late.

Yeah, orthene and riptide are ordered and on the way. I'm more worried about the seedlings. Some are looking like they'll pull through while others look pretty smoked already.
 

ceosam

Member
PEOPLE!

Get rid of aphids forever, easily!

1. Take cuts, dip them, and put in fridge to preserve
2. Kill plants (they will die in the heat anyway)
3. Turn room lights on, exhaust off
4. Cook room @ 135*F for 12 hours
5. Repeat step 5 x3

No more aphids.. is will save you all a ton of headache.
 

Granger2

Active member
Veteran
I'm assuming you mean Root Aphids, rather than above ground aphids. And that you mean 5. Repeat step 4x3. -granger
 

woolybear

Well-known member
Veteran
i had a bit of a flying aphid problem this summer in my hydro grow. luckily the plant was healthy but i did get at least 50 flyers in my sticky traps.

1) get sticky traps, i used two one at stem level and one in the air
2) removed drip line at base of stem.
3) removed algae covered rockwool
4) applied about 1/3 gallon of og biowar root pack dissolved in RO water directly to the base of the stem
5) reduced feeding times

No more fliers, plant healthly. I would also try the #0000 rockwool method as I'm growing hydro with no medium

FYI
 

Hmong

Well-known member
Veteran
those are becomming more and more of a problem. I had an invasion in early 2014 and it lasted almost six months, I tried everything in this thread, in the end cutting everything down and clearing the sight completely was the only way to get rid of them once and for all, since then I did not have a single plant at that location, just in case I'm gonna restart.
What really shocked me a few weeks ago, was i was chilling and laying in the city park a few blocks away and suddenly I had some flyers crawling over me. It was definately RAs I couldn't believe my eyes
 

RedBeardy5

Active member
I had another infestation and it hit only one room. The room it hit was the only room I stopped the ogbiowar, if that tells you something.
 

Mrs.Ping29

Member
I had them for over a year plus gnats. One dose of bayer complete . 1/2 oz per gallon of water. Watered plants ( no run off very important) and applied foliar spray at the same concentration. Gone the next day! This was about 2 wks ago. I pulled up a plant and looked at the roots no signs of bugs or damage. Plants are all happy. All of them are veg plants so they will get a good 4-6 weeks before they go to flower! Great thread! Saved me strain that I don't want to loose!
 

TheOutlawTree

Active member
I believe the RA's I was seeing a while back were only tiny "soil mites". The real culprit was fusarium oxysporum which has very similar symptoms as far as all the phantom deficiency's.

Has anyone tried PFR-97 as a soil drench yet? I know its the same idea as Met-52 but they are different types of fungus. Which one is more effective is yet to be proven.
 
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