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Fungus gnats or WINGED ROOT APHIDS???

Miraculous Meds

Well-known member
Recently I noticed a group of clones taking way too long to grow out of their cups. I saw sickly roots and scoped some white crawlies moving around that weren't springtails. I took a 5 second video of one of them with my digital microscope. I'm praying that I'm wrong and its some other kind of bug because I also noticed fungus gnats were present. The medium is coco,perlite and amended with earthworm castings.http://youtu.be/OcrXcce8ywE

what ur describing is the exact same situation I was in. used bti by way of dunks n bits. thought the tiny white critters were h. soil mites. all I can say is that for 3 cycles in a row the bugs got worse n yields suffered by as much as 60 to 75%. imo, treat like they are ra. get rid of the fg problem at the same time.

People are talking good about ogbiowar for ra, but I don't have easy access to that so I went with the orthene/pyrethrin treatment. killed everything, but burnt my leaves. if u do that I would bring the light off ur plants for a few, n flush the next day.
 

panick503

Member
what ur describing is the exact same situation I was in. used bti by way of dunks n bits. thought the tiny white critters were h. soil mites. all I can say is that for 3 cycles in a row the bugs got worse n yields suffered by as much as 60 to 75%. imo, treat like they are ra. get rid of the fg problem at the same time.

People are talking good about ogbiowar for ra, but I don't have easy access to that so I went with the orthene/pyrethrin treatment. killed everything, but burnt my leaves. if u do that I would bring the light off ur plants for a few, n flush the next day.

I also have these exact same mites crawling in my soil, but i've been using predatory mites religiously for a few months now. It's been all cucumeris, but I did dump a vial of h. Miles a few months ago. Either way, these guys are crawling in every pot, and I have a small case of fungus gnats as well...

When did ur yields.start suffering? Cuz this looks like it might be one of my best runs, and these guys are everywhere... but the fungus gnats are almost non existent
 

Miraculous Meds

Well-known member
I also have these exact same mites crawling in my soil, but i've been using predatory mites religiously for a few months now. It's been all cucumeris, but I did dump a vial of h. Miles a few months ago. Either way, these guys are crawling in every pot, and I have a small case of fungus gnats as well...

When did ur yields.start suffering? Cuz this looks like it might be one of my best runs, and these guys are everywhere... but the fungus gnats are almost non existent

my fg population kept getting bigger even with heavy dunk n bits applications. so that might have made my situation much worse than what ur describing. but about 30 days into flower significant yellowing of leaves occurred, n plants didn't really take up much nutrient, n water anymore at its worst. bud development completely stalled n 60 to 65 day varieties finished in 52 days.
 

LightItUpChris

New member
http://www.ctahr.hawaii.edu/haraa/CPSSeminar%20102711_smaller.pdf


http://www.ctahr.hawaii.edu/haraa/CPSSeminar 102711_smaller.pdf

University study that compares mulitiple forms of insecticides againnst aphids.

Kontos seems to be the newest technology and it list it as a Tentronic Acid as compared with a neonicotiniod.

Storm Shadow says it works.

But any pest control needs to be fallowed up with strigent cleaning and prevention techniques! No reusing bambo ( thanks Eclipes420), and also keep things extremlly clean. Make sure any intake air is double filtered. Clean up yard and make sure that you can walk on a clean entry into the house. Amongst others. Come up with a contributing factors list and fallow it.

I read the whole post, it was worth it. along with some peer reviewed journal articals.

I am no expert, just a student eager to learn.

thanks for all that have posted, granger, eclipsefour, striaghtedge, spleeball, backyardfarmer, oceangrownkush, retrowgrow, medicalmj and many others, your helping to keep me in the fight.
 

LightItUpChris

New member
I used bayer complete, it knocked them back, but them they just seemed to laugh at me and came back harder.

I put a old peice of bamboo into a strong plant that was starting to lean. 5 days later it was over takin completley by RA's. That was a mistake. Threw away all extra old bamboo.
 

LightItUpChris

New member
Some growers have been asking about alternatives, in which case I would suggest Aria, Avid (high label rate), Endeavor, Kontos, M-Pede, or a horticultural oil (SufOil-X, Triact, Purespray, etc.) as sprays (several other products are also labeled but less likely to have quick knockdown; pyrethroids often work quickly except where melon and
green peach aphids are ‘tolerant’ or resistant). Kontos and Mainspring can also be applied as a drench.

As written by Dan Gilrein PH.D Cornell University. 4-1-2015

http://www.e-gro.org/pdf/2015_430.pdf

Study collaborated on by many university drs. Worth the read.

Has anybody tryed or heard of Mainspring? In a different family than most and maybe can be used effectively? New product.
-
 

LightItUpChris

New member
http://fmcturfwire.com/2013/05/aphi...mendations/?utm_content=aphid identificiation

"To control aphids, an application of Aria® insecticide at 20 to 60 grams per 100 gallons of water should be made. Aria is highly effective against aphids, and hence monthly applications are typically utilized. Applications could be made on a 7-14 day schedule depending on the level of infestation and the nature of the crop. Aria is similar to a neonicotinoid class of chemistry, but it is its own unique mode of action and provides a great resistance management tool. Be on the lookout for our new package size of Aria in a 160-gram bottle; the cap measures 20-gram increments for ease of use. If more aphids are found later, the nursery manager should then apply Talstar® Select insecticide at 5-10 ounces per 100 gallons of water.

Rotation of pesticides is critical for aphid control in greenhouses and nurseries due to their ability to develop tolerance to insecticides. It is advisable to rotate modes of action between organophosphates, pyrethroids and other chemical classes on a regular basis."

said Dina Richman, Ph. D. in 5-1-2013

These bugs can and will become resistant to Imid "cocktails". That needs to be noted. I am not sure on the suggested use rates, if at all, for edible food crops, but this study is worth noting.

Anybody that has used any of these products, please chime in.

Keep it Clean in your room. Clean, clean, clean. Than apply any insecticide treatments with strategy. Write down your strategy and than fallow it.
 

GET MO

Registered Med User
Veteran
it sucks when u live in the woods and these things are just in the damn air. I just got a new spider mite infestation, hadnt brang in any new clones or anything but my aunt has a rose garden about 100 yards from my garden and it was infested too. Lately I been adding insect frass and neem cake to my soil as well as a sprinkle of them both on top, then ogbiowar teas and spray every two weeks. Need to add neem oil weekly sprays to the regimen and i should be good...
 

RedBeardy5

Active member
That's how I'm getting mine I believe. I live in the mountains and outside my widow there was a ton of ladybugs. The only room that's not sealed is my veg so I do ogbiowar dunks on a weekly basis now.
 

panick503

Member
It would be nice to come to a consensus on whether these soil mites are benefical or not... can I trap one and send it out to get a positive id?
 

Matt8800

Member
I had a root aphid infestation that was getting out of control. I had tried mosquito dunks but it had no effect. I saw on here that spectracide triazidcide was suggested. I put 10 ml per gal into my reservoir. It immediately wiped them out with no impact on the plants. Great stuff.
 

Kygiacomo!!!

AppAlachiAn OutLaW
I had a root aphid infestation that was getting out of control. I had tried mosquito dunks but it had no effect. I saw on here that spectracide triazidcide was suggested. I put 10 ml per gal into my reservoir. It immediately wiped them out with no impact on the plants. Great stuff.
u can get rid of them with organic stuff as well bro. im no organic holy rolly i use chems and organics but i like to try the safest route possible if i can. these was killed with Ogbiowar root pack.all it takes for the fungas to infect 1 root aphid and it will wipe out the whole colony bc ever root or other aphid this fungas touches spread and annilate these fkers.
 

av8or

Member
Wow, excellent pictures, K! I almost tried the ogbiowar rootpack. Next time I think I will. Looks effective. Thanks for sharing.
 

the gnome

Active member
Veteran
those are the best looking RAs Ive ever seen :good:
how much does it cost to treat each pot with the RA biowar
there's many diff sizes of the paks
 

Helloguy

New member
Somebody please help!
Ok fairly new to this, got a small setup of 6 plants . On my third run with the same problem. Thought it was mag def. but definitely gnats. So I fed heavvvvily with merit yesterday. Today they are super heavy so I'm not going to feed them. What do I do tomorrow ? Feed them merit again? Flush with clearex? Put my regular nutes? Someone please help!
 

Miraculous Meds

Well-known member
Somebody please help!
Ok fairly new to this, got a small setup of 6 plants . On my third run with the same problem. Thought it was mag def. but definitely gnats. So I fed heavvvvily with merit yesterday. Today they are super heavy so I'm not going to feed them. What do I do tomorrow ? Feed them merit again? Flush with clearex? Put my regular nutes? Someone please help!

ur gonna have to play the game of adjusting ur watering/feeding frequency with the plants demands. which might be much less if the root system is seriously damaged.

merit is 75% imid correct? If so its systemic n takes time to kill n has a residual effect. so no more merit is needed. what u can do is contact killers n fly traps n sprays for the adults. simple sprays like pyrethrin, safer soap, neem, all kill fg on contact with ease. put yellow sticky traps at soil level to trap adults, n regular fly paper around the room to trap more. spray the soil surface with the contact killer spray, as adults n larvae hang out there. then root drench with a contact killer. spectracide works good. so do any of those others. but the specific larvae killer of choice is bti since its a biological n effective for gnat larvae. Normally I used to use mosquito bits n dunks which contain 8 to 10% bti. but they didn't work on my recent infestation, maybe because it was too over populated. so I did the ra treatment, which wiped out whatever soil critter I had crawling in the pots along with the fg larvae. but I also got the Cadillac of bti, which is gnatrol, its 38%bti. very highly effective for high populations with no chems needed if all u have is fg's.
 

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