DarkGreenGoo..
Member
Fed them yesterday with just Maxibloom and Silca blast. Will feed them again tomorrow with just Maxibloom and Silica blast again, but really flush out the system with the new mix.
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*The K.I.S.S. Method*
- Thread starter Ioni Botani
- Start date
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sourpuss
So whats the deal here.... frigin 200 pages....
Just started with maxibloom. Past 2 days used 7g per gallon as stated in the beginning of the thread.... seems a tad high... over nute signs showing. Gonna drop it down.... ill take str8s advice and go to 3.75 g per gallon... guys never steered me wrong before.... and the flushing arguing.... ive tried almost every combo except pure ro throughout. I have to agree that the best product ive produced was thru a gradual taper of nutes to finish with zero to a few days of pure ro.... with a taper it seems to fade and taste and burn cleanest.... ive tried pure water for weeks. Only gets worse...
Just started with maxibloom. Past 2 days used 7g per gallon as stated in the beginning of the thread.... seems a tad high... over nute signs showing. Gonna drop it down.... ill take str8s advice and go to 3.75 g per gallon... guys never steered me wrong before.... and the flushing arguing.... ive tried almost every combo except pure ro throughout. I have to agree that the best product ive produced was thru a gradual taper of nutes to finish with zero to a few days of pure ro.... with a taper it seems to fade and taste and burn cleanest.... ive tried pure water for weeks. Only gets worse...
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sourpuss
I th8nk of all the strains ive flush the hell out of and never got to fully enjoy the strain... regret sucks....
Find that cigar ash article... states a white ash signifies that the plant was grow in a minerally rich soil.... not deficient soil.... organic growers cannot remove the food from the soil.... think about whats happenning naturally in the organic soil... food is there even at chop.... low amounts not zero nutes available....
I think about chems as a mimic to organics not something different. Cause to the plant nitrogen is the same regardless of where I comes from...
Find that cigar ash article... states a white ash signifies that the plant was grow in a minerally rich soil.... not deficient soil.... organic growers cannot remove the food from the soil.... think about whats happenning naturally in the organic soil... food is there even at chop.... low amounts not zero nutes available....
I think about chems as a mimic to organics not something different. Cause to the plant nitrogen is the same regardless of where I comes from...
Florilicious + is great stuff. Really works, and brings out the smells better than any product I've tried. Also, humic acid boosts plat's immune system.
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sourpuss
My way is low feed thoughout and about 10 days of really low feed... bout quarter strength... few days of pure water...
I think u can do the low feed for a good while.... 2 weeks maybe 3.... plant will yellow slowly...
Again this is what I currently do.... might figure out better later but as of now this is what works for me....
I think u can do the low feed for a good while.... 2 weeks maybe 3.... plant will yellow slowly...
Again this is what I currently do.... might figure out better later but as of now this is what works for me....
Actually, that's not true. There are different kinds of nitrogen, and they differ in the rate of availability and how they effect the PH. There are three types of nitrogen used in water-soluble fertilizers: ammoniacal nitrogen (NH4-N), nitrate-nitrogen (NO3-N) and urea.
Ammoniacal nitrogen is acidic (a mental reminder is that both words begin with the letter “A”). When ammoniacal nitrogen is taken up by roots, the plant can secrete an acidic H+ into the soil solution. The more H+ contained in the root media, the lower the media pH.
Urea is easily converted into ammonium in the substrate and therefore can be thought of as another source of acidic nitrogen.
In contrast, uptake of nitrate nitrogen increases substrate-pH because basic OH- or HCO3- are secreted by plant roots into the root media. Since OH- and HCO3- are bases, nitrate uptake therefore can cause the media-pH to increase.
Another important process is called nitrification. Several types of bacteria in container substrates convert ammonium to nitrate. Nitrification releases acidic H+ into the soil solution, causing the media pH to decrease.
Ammoniacal nitrogen is about three times stronger an acid than nitrate nitrogen is a base. For example, a fertilizer such as 17-4-17 has about 25 percent ammoniacal nitrogen and 75 percent nitrate nitrogen (1 NH4-N:3 NO3-N ratio), and the reaction produced by the 17-4-17 fertilizer tends to be neutral. With 40 percent of the nitrogen in the ammoniacal form and 60 percent in the nitrate form, 20-10-20 has an acidic overall effect (2 NH4-N:3 NO3-N ratio). In comparison, 15-0-15 contains only 13 percent of its nitrogen in the ammoniacal form and 87 percent in the nitrate form (0.5 NH4-N:3 NO3-N ratio). And the reaction produced by 15-0-15 tends to be basic.
To read more:
http://www.greenhousegrower.com/cro...ing-plant-nutrition-fertilizers-and-media-ph/
Nitrogen: All Forms Are Not Equal
http://www.greenhouse.cornell.edu/crops/factsheets/nitrogen_form.pdf
http://homeguides.sfgate.com/ammoniacal-nitrogen-fertilizer-vs-urea-fertilizer-82705.html
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sourpuss
Webcast.... read str8edges post a few pages back.... im still learning.... ^^as u can see.... still know what makes a good product..... actually make that a great product..... reading str8s post just confirmed everything ive been trying and compiling in my head recently..... man just saved a me a lot of time.... im sure I woulda figured it out sooner or later.... sooners always best and im free to share Info.... yeah I did a lot of work to learn..... str8 drops wisdom and most arent even payin attention....
sorry if i missed it but this thread is pretty long..
was wondering if anyone is running the K.I.S.S. method using r.o. water...and if so do u add cal/mag to it?
reason why is...ive been running this style for years w out a hitch.recently i had to switch to r.o and i been wondering if me adding the cal/mag to every feed and watering is doing more harm then good...
i grow in soil,fox farm ocean forest.with added perlite,earth worm castings and lime...
thanks in advance for any info and knowledge.
peace-T-
was wondering if anyone is running the K.I.S.S. method using r.o. water...and if so do u add cal/mag to it?
reason why is...ive been running this style for years w out a hitch.recently i had to switch to r.o and i been wondering if me adding the cal/mag to every feed and watering is doing more harm then good...
i grow in soil,fox farm ocean forest.with added perlite,earth worm castings and lime...
thanks in advance for any info and knowledge.
peace-T-
Well, if you're growing in Fox Farm's Ocean Forest + worm castings +lime, that is not really K.I.S.S.
K.I.S.S. is growing in coco with only Maxibloom.
That's a pretty hot mix to begin with. You're results are good, so I don't see the issue. Maxibloom has cal/mag in it, so if you're not seeing deficiencies, I don't think you need to change anything. Cal-Mag compensates for the natural calcium draw of coco coir fiber, so if you are not using coco, that "benefit" is irrelevant. You can always do a foliar feed of cal/mag if it is needed, and you can foliar feed with skim milk, mixed @ a 9-1 ratio, ie., 9 parts water and one part SKIM milk. This provides calcium and is antifungul. It will prevent/kill powdery mildew. Plants love it.
Or other soil less medium. If it's soil, it has it's own nutrients. Doesn't mean you can't use Maxibloom, or any other fert, it just doesn't fit the idea of K.I.S.S., as proposed by the OP. Obviously, lots of ways to skin a cat. OP's method is just one, that happens to work well.
my results have been different since switching to the r.o. unit with these nutes thts why ive been trouble shooting...
us dirt dudes use the k.i.s.s. method too,i use the soil mix i use because i have for years...creature of habit.
i am switching to promix next run but i will still be amending it with some goodies.
k.i.s.s. has very little to do with the medium imho.
thanks for the response but i think you may have misunderstood my question.and the reason i asked it.
peace-T-
my opinion this KISS method is for soilless applications. soil has its own KISS method. being a super soil mix. sure it takes a little more ingredients initially, but they last a long time, arent crazy expensive and its a SET IT AND FORGET IT type of setup. you just mix everything together before hand and give water only.
when i was running soil i had my own soil mix i used which was a modified version of subcool's. in veg i would use strictly roots original soil and i would up the pot size every 2-3 weeks. the plants never went hungry. always as beautiful green as could be. tap water is best (or dechlorinated tap water probably better.. tall boy filter is great for soil growers, i find RO water causes issues in soil)
but when it came time to flower, i gave nothing but water all through, and i yielded great and the quality was great. the reason i switched to DWC is because i believe i can pull in ONE month what it took TWO months to do in soil. and from my latest run it seems to be pretty close to that.
i will post my soil mix on the bottom of this reply
in regards to using calmag with maxigrow/maxibloom with RO.. not necessary at all. i also think people using tap water for the cal/mag benefit is incorrect info. the molecule size is too large and the plant cant use tap water cal/mag.. which is why its better to use a supplement.
but i use maxigrow/maxibloom with RO and do not have any cal/mag issues whatsoever. dont overcomplicate it. they are both a one part nutrient. complete in every since except silica, because if they added silica it would cause drop out. so thats why people are adding silica first to the res to dilute it, then adding nutrients after.
on another note, i just chopped my blue dream which was mostly maxigrow and had maxibloom for final 2 weeks. no flush at all. i dont know if the fact that im vaporizing makes a difference, but this product tastes and feels cleaner than anything i ever grew in organic soil. and the smell and flavor and crystal content are higher as well. i grew this blue dream many times in soil under many different nutrients and it seems that the quality that the maxi line gave is better than it all.
as far as the flush, going forward i will do the slow fade. 2 weeks from harvest im dosing em full strength, then just topping off with plain RO and microbe tea over the following 2 weeks until harvest time. i agree that the gradual decrease in EC over a 2 week period will give the best final product.
when i was running soil i had my own soil mix i used which was a modified version of subcool's. in veg i would use strictly roots original soil and i would up the pot size every 2-3 weeks. the plants never went hungry. always as beautiful green as could be. tap water is best (or dechlorinated tap water probably better.. tall boy filter is great for soil growers, i find RO water causes issues in soil)
but when it came time to flower, i gave nothing but water all through, and i yielded great and the quality was great. the reason i switched to DWC is because i believe i can pull in ONE month what it took TWO months to do in soil. and from my latest run it seems to be pretty close to that.
i will post my soil mix on the bottom of this reply
in regards to using calmag with maxigrow/maxibloom with RO.. not necessary at all. i also think people using tap water for the cal/mag benefit is incorrect info. the molecule size is too large and the plant cant use tap water cal/mag.. which is why its better to use a supplement.
but i use maxigrow/maxibloom with RO and do not have any cal/mag issues whatsoever. dont overcomplicate it. they are both a one part nutrient. complete in every since except silica, because if they added silica it would cause drop out. so thats why people are adding silica first to the res to dilute it, then adding nutrients after.
on another note, i just chopped my blue dream which was mostly maxigrow and had maxibloom for final 2 weeks. no flush at all. i dont know if the fact that im vaporizing makes a difference, but this product tastes and feels cleaner than anything i ever grew in organic soil. and the smell and flavor and crystal content are higher as well. i grew this blue dream many times in soil under many different nutrients and it seems that the quality that the maxi line gave is better than it all.
as far as the flush, going forward i will do the slow fade. 2 weeks from harvest im dosing em full strength, then just topping off with plain RO and microbe tea over the following 2 weeks until harvest time. i agree that the gradual decrease in EC over a 2 week period will give the best final product.
