*The K.I.S.S. Method*

[papaduc]

i'll be giving half maxigrow and half maxibloom for the first 2 weeks of flower from now on to prevent any nitrogen deficiencies during the intial stretch.

Nice healthy plants

For the first two weeks of flower, give them the same amount of maxigrow that was keeping them healthy in veg. You'll be happy with the results

Count your first two weeks of flower as your last two weeks of veg because, from a nutritional point of view, that's exactly what it is. It's preparation for flower, elongation of stems etc, not full bloom and bud building.

If you want to move onto full strength maxibloom, or a mix of the two, do it after that.

 

[zamzia]

Nice healthy plants

For the first two weeks of flower, give them the same amount of maxigrow that was keeping them healthy in veg. You'll be happy with the results

Count your first two weeks of flower as your last two weeks of veg because, from a nutritional point of view, that's exactly what it is. It's preparation for flower, elongation of stems etc, not full bloom and bud building.

If you want to move onto full strength maxibloom, or a mix of the two, do it after that.

BOOOOOM!!!!

 

[xxxstr8edgexxx]

It only matters if you have OCD. Otherwise, it doesn't make a particle of difference. A little more or a little less is meaningless. And the measuring spoon is there for a reason. It's all you need. One teaspoon per gallon. No need to weigh it at all. K.I.S.S.
Some people like to take something simple, and make it more complicated. It makes them feel better about themselves, and satisfies their compulsions. The plants won't notice the difference. They take what they need.

not in my garden. call me ocd if you want but .1-.2 difference can mean the difference in yellowing or not or getting tip burn after an extended period. you can call it ocd or you could call it accuracy. im really curious to see your plants at full 7 grams at week 3-and beyond.in a multifed coco in my room 3x a day o.9-1.1 is going to cause my plants to yellow. 1.4-1.5 will cause an excess even with runoff. how is it ocd to react to that observation. 1.2-1.3 is as simple as it gets. just watch your plants and watch ec in coco or run off. i wouldn't dream of winging it when its so simple to look and listen vs. blindly pouring in and just being ok with over under fed plants for the sake of convenience. get an ec meter and go from barely adequate to ideal. your plants will love it. seriously why would you feed the wrong way just because you wish it would work and someone told you it would. look at your yellow plants and ask yourself if it is working.

 

[sidewing]

Hit them with Aquashield. Get rid of slime....

beneficial tea is the same plus more.

aquashield is basically beneficial bacteria watered down but only has about 5 or so different variety of bacteria.

by brewing a AACT tea/microbial tea with earthworm castings, alaska humus, and mycogrow soluble powder (which is TONS of variety of beneficial bacteria and fungii, plus vitamins, kelp, humic acid), it's activating many many thousands of different bacteria and fungii to keep the res protected, and multiplying their numbers 1000x at least before introducing into the res. its way cheaper than aquashield. accomplishes the same thing, but way stronger/better/more effective.

 

[sidewing]

not in my garden. call me ocd if you want but .1-.2 difference can mean the difference in yellowing or not or getting tip burn after an extended period. you can call it ocd or you could call it accuracy. im really curious to see your plants at full 7 grams at week 3-and beyond.in a multifed coco in my room 3x a day o.9-1.1 is going to cause my plants to yellow. 1.4-1.5 will cause an excess even with runoff. how is it ocd to react to that observation. 1.2-1.3 is as simple as it gets. just watch your plants and watch ec in coco or run off. i wouldn't dream of winging it when its so simple to look and listen vs. blindly pouring in and just being ok with over under fed plants for the sake of convenience. get an ec meter and go from barely adequate to ideal. your plants will love it. seriously why would you feed the wrong way just because you wish it would work and someone told you it would. look at your yellow plants and ask yourself if it is working.

i use the scoop in the bag and go by ec. ill never weigh the scoop, doesnt matter. i go by the final EC in the res. the npk ratio is the same regardless of how much i use. i dont see personally using .1 or .2 less being the different between going yellow and not, but its possible in your enviroment it does. i just dont see that small amount making a difference. i drain and change my res once a week anyway so they're always getting a fresh dose.

so ive been doing some math adding different mixes of maxigrow/maxibloom and calculating the npk's, heres where im at so far for future rounds:

right now for maxigrow in veg im doing .4 ec week 1 of veg, .8 week 2 and 3. and then 1.2ec for weeks 4 and 5. after that they go into flower, at 1.7 ec half maxigrow half maxibloom (4tsp of each.. i added it up, comes out to about a 1-1-2 ratio n-p-k, just slightly higher p than n. then week 3-6 they switch to 2 tsp grow 7tsp bloom, which the npk ratio comes out to aprox 1-2-2.5.. then on week 7 and 8 they switch to 7tsp maxibloom and 2tsp of CS bud booster Late formula. (basically very close to koolbloom powder). which puts the ec at 1.7 and npk approx 0.5-2-1..

ideally id like the K to be higher, at a ratio of say 0.5-2-4 at the end of flower. basically K to be double the P at this point. but i cant achieve that with the powder i have, nor with koolbloom. the only solution i see is to switch to big bud powder because it has the PK ratio im looking for late in flower (being double the amount of K to P). so i havent decided if im going to just use the powder i have, or bite the bullet and just buy the big bud powder and use that instead. its not crazy expensive, but right this moment i dont have the extra money. i dont need it for another few weeks so maybe by that time ill have the extra money to buy it.

unless i just want to run the Mid flower mix of grow and bloom all the way through flower and then give the regular 2 week water only at the end to leech all the residual.. this may be a good option also, im not just sure if the P/K boost is going to harden and help trigger the plant to finish the bud at the end. i know theres mixed opinions on this. guess the only way to find out is to experiment.

i understand its sort of getting away from the KISS method which works im sure. just wondering if mixing the grow/bloom in correct ratios at different stages might benefit the plant more.

 

[xxxstr8edgexxx]

of course it would. yes ad the variant at 0.2 too low wont yellow me out in a day but if they are .2 too low at stretch it would yellow a bit in a weeks time. and i use a scale when i am mixing more than one dry soluble ingredient but with maxibloom i also mix to e.c..
if im .....0.2 to high i get tip burn. sounds like a good recipe you got working out,. id pull up a chair for a grow thread.

 

[RetroGrow]

beneficial tea is the same plus more.

aquashield is basically beneficial bacteria watered down but only has about 5 or so different variety of bacteria.

by brewing a AACT tea/microbial tea with earthworm castings, alaska humus, and mycogrow soluble powder (which is TONS of variety of beneficial bacteria and fungii, plus vitamins, kelp, humic acid), it's activating many many thousands of different bacteria and fungii to keep the res protected, and multiplying their numbers 1000x at least before introducing into the res. its way cheaper than aquashield. accomplishes the same thing, but way stronger/better/more effective.

I understand that. Aquashield works though, and will clean up the slime overnight, for people who don't make their own teas, and want something to quickly get rid of the slime. I know that you can brew your own teas that may be more effective against certain pathogens, may be cheaper, etc., but for someone who doesn't have their own teas brewed, Aquashield is a product that's readily available and will do the job. Also, it's not real expensive.

 

[sidewing]

still reading thru the thread. on page 170 now. almost done.

i had a bottle of DutchMaster Gold Silica laying around, so i tried it when i did my res change today. the bottle recommends 10ml per gallons. in my veg bucket which is 5 gallons of water i added 3 tsp of maxigrow, 9ml of silica, and the PH came out to 6.1 and EC at 1.2. so in veg i avoided the small amount of ph up needed so far, i hope the silica doesnt cause me any additional issues.

in flower was another story. my flower bucket is 10 gallons of water.

i added 10tsp of maxibloom, and 18ml of silica. my ph was still at 4.7, so i still had to add 25 drops of ph up to get my ph to 5.7.

i dont want to go over the recommended dose of silica just to adjust my PH to the proper level. seems as though it would throw the other nutrient ratios off? i guess in flower i have to either use ph up or a combo of silica and ph up. it only seems to be raising the equivalence of what 5 drops of ph up would do. if my math is correct i'd need basically 110ml per 10 gallons of DM silica to get my ph in ideal level. wayyy to much

 

[RetroGrow]

Make your mixture the day before, then check PH. PH normally rises a bit. Give it time to rise before making final adjustments.

 

[sidewing]

i actually found it does all its rising within about a 4 hour window for me. i adjusted it to 5.4 this morning and have seen previously that it does about a 0.4 raise from my initial adjustment. so i checked it (been 7 hours) and its teetering between 5.7 and 5.8. perfect this time. anyone that has used half/half and just bloom and is currently using half grow half bloom see better flowers versus just bloom? does the higher levels of nitrogen prolong flowering time? and does it affect bud density at all (more nitrogen sometimes making buds more airy)? im using all bloom currently on my last res fill just to keep it simple, but the ratio of half and half does look better, being higher in k than p.

 

[sidewing]

anybody ever try running just maxigrow all through flower? i know it goes against the 'mass' of information out there, but there is also a great deal of scientific info out there to support the fact that the ideal ratio for cannabis in veg and flower is 3-1-2. maxigrow being 2-1-3 is not exactly that ratio, but much closer than maxibloom.

some believe that having healthy roots and healthy foliage is what makes your plant produce, and not pumping massive levels of p/k in flower. so it would make sense that keeping the foliage as green as possible through flower would mean they are working at 100% to produce the energy the plant needs to thrive.

they did a lot of studies during ww2 with hemp and determined that the 3-1-2 ratio was ideal. the early hydro testing done by govt also supported this claim.

any thoughts on this? i recall reading through the thread that someone said 'maxigrow appears to have the better ratio than maxibloom' but i dont remember who said it and i couldnt find it with the search function.

 

[Caravaggio]

anybody ever try running just maxigrow all through flower? i know it goes against the 'mass' of information out there, but there is also a great deal of scientific info out there to support the fact that the ideal ratio for cannabis in veg and flower is 3-1-2. maxigrow being 2-1-3 is not exactly that ratio, but much closer than maxibloom.

some believe that having healthy roots and healthy foliage is what makes your plant produce, and not pumping massive levels of p/k in flower. so it would make sense that keeping the foliage as green as possible through flower would mean they are working at 100% to produce the energy the plant needs to thrive.

they did a lot of studies during ww2 with hemp and determined that the 3-1-2 ratio was ideal. the early hydro testing done by govt also supported this claim.

any thoughts on this? i recall reading through the thread that someone said 'maxigrow appears to have the better ratio than maxibloom' but i dont remember who said it and i couldnt find it with the search function.

This is exactly why very experienced growers use Dynagrow Foliage Pro. It's 3-1-2 and perfect

 

[sidewing]

This is exactly why very experienced growers use Dynagrow Foliage Pro. It's 3-1-2 and perfect

they use only that for veg and flower?

 

[sidewing]

i'll let you guys know how it goes. im convinced enough by what ive been reading that it should not only work but work fantastic. i'll be starting a new round of flower next week.

 

[audiohi]

Just watch the amount of nitrate nitrogen.That's the reason I ultimately chose the maxibloom. There's much less nitrate nitrogen in it and I supplement with ammoniacal nitrogen if needed.

"some believe that having healthy roots and healthy foliage is what makes your plant produce, and not pumping massive levels of p/k in flower. so it would make sense that keeping the foliage as green as possible through flower would mean they are working at 100% to produce the energy the plant needs to thrive."

Just as a side note for that... Nitrate nitrogen requires substantially more energy from the plant to use and will remained stored in the plant much longer. This could potentially suck power from flowering if you want to get that technical.

 

[sidewing]

Just as a side note for that... Nitrate nitrogen requires substantially more energy from the plant to use and will remained stored in the plant much longer. This could potentially suck power from flowering if you want to get that technical.

some good input there. do you think the 8.5% in grow compared to the 4.5% in bloom is a drastic difference? worth using bloom over grow?

 

[Caravaggio]

Just watch the amount of nitrate nitrogen.That's the reason I ultimately chose the maxibloom. There's much less nitrate nitrogen in it and I supplement with ammoniacal nitrogen if needed.

"some believe that having healthy roots and healthy foliage is what makes your plant produce, and not pumping massive levels of p/k in flower. so it would make sense that keeping the foliage as green as possible through flower would mean they are working at 100% to produce the energy the plant needs to thrive."

Just as a side note for that... Nitrate nitrogen requires substantially more energy from the plant to use and will remained stored in the plant much longer. This could potentially suck power from flowering if you want to get that technical.

Foliage Pro is around 6% nitrate and 3% Ammoniacal

Maxibloom is 4.5% nitrate and .5% ammoniacal


These are my 2 favorite options for a KISS system. Both work a treat.

 

[RetroGrow]

so it would make sense that keeping the foliage as green as possible through flower would mean they are working at 100% to produce the energy the plant needs to thrive.

Disagree, totally. Plant is at the end of it's life. Fans should be yellowing with some red. Too much nitrogen makes for a very harsh smoke. Properly finished plant should not be all green. One reason Maxibloom should be used in flower, not Maxigrow. Maxigrow is not a one part. Maxibloom is.
This is how a properly finished plant/leaves should look:

 

[sidewing]

Foliage Pro is around 6% nitrate and 3% Ammoniacal

Maxibloom is 4.5% nitrate and .5% ammoniacal


These are my 2 favorite options for a KISS system. Both work a treat.

seems in comparison maxigrow is in the same ballpark.

 

[Caravaggio]

seems in comparison maxigrow is in the same ballpark.

It is. Please keep in mind you're on the internet and most people talk out of their asses and keep regurgitating other people said on the same and other forums.