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*The K.I.S.S. Method*
- Thread starter Ioni Botani
- Start date
resinscientist
Member
why over watering? i thought coco should stay wet? thanks for the responses
webecat
Active member
I've been top feeding rockwool cubes with a 1/2 scoop of MB in veg. The problem I had was salt build up so the leaf tips start to burn then starts choking the leaf growth. I did a drain to waste flush with clearex and switched to a 1/2 scoop of MG for veg and the plants look awesome (3/4 scoop was way too hot). And I love the results with 1 scoop MB ebb and flow for flower. So I guess I'm just following GH's directions and it works best for me FWIW.
i been running the K.I.S.S. method for several years.i grow in soil,FFOF... I recently had to install an r.o. machine due to some issues with the city water source...ive tried to search through this thread again and see if anyone is running an r.o. unit and using the K.I.S.S. method,and if so are they adding cal/mag to the mixture....ive already fed them once w cal/mag added and dont want to do it again if its gonna hurt my plants...im already going thru enough in there atm.
thanks in advance,
peace-T-
and if anyone knows can they please tell me what they dial the E.C. and ph of your grows in soil....veg/bloom
thanks again
thanks in advance,
peace-T-
and if anyone knows can they please tell me what they dial the E.C. and ph of your grows in soil....veg/bloom
thanks again
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I run Maxibloom with my coco ladies from an RO unit, no cal-mag. I did at first, but then your not really following the KISS method. 7g, a teaspoon-or the small end of the scoop or less, and your golden. I do not know the dosage for soil, I wouldn't mind knowing though? Thanks
Believe i read the soil dosage is the same.. Only variance is how often you feed.
Up to ~page 145.. picked up my MaxiBloom and Protekt at the hydro store today. Counter guy said i'm wiseing up..
As a newb i really appreciate the efforts and willingness to share this stuff guys.. once i get through this thread it's on to Mario's WOW thread and a hempy bucket thread or two.
k well ive been a soil grower for years sucessfully. never had any issues, smooth sailing. i recently decided to give DWC a try. ran into slime issues, heisenburg tea keeps it at bay and keeps the roots strong and aggressive growing. im running dutch masters and im fairly happy with it (even more so now that i know the metal content is very low).
im only on page 48 of the thread so i have a lot of reading left to do, but i wanted to chime in.
dutch masters seems to keep my plants in a constant state of borderline yellow. i have to add calmag cuz i use RO water (even though dutchmaster says their nutes are designed for RO and there is enough calmag in there). i was considering running the lucas formula but came across this thread and in favor of saving some money (i used to flower for under $40 a cycle in soil) im giving this method a go instead.
Yes i know people say maxibloom has enough to carry through veg, but its 15 dollars so im going to run maxigrow in veg. maxibloom in flower and then the week before the 2 week water only flush i was going to go with koolbloom but the guy at the hydroshop recommended 'cultured solutions bud booster late bloom (powder)'. it's very similar to koolbloom but its designed specifically for hydro/dwc. it has a little bit higher levels of sulfur and magnesium (should add to the flavor profile) and a slightly different ratio of npk. koolbloom is 2-45-28. Bud Booster is 1-40-22. i dont have a bag of koolbloom to get the micronutrient values (i looked side by side in store) but bud booster has 2.2% magnesium and 2.7% sulfur. derived from potassium phosphate, potassium sulfate, magnesium sulfate, and ammonium phosphate. plus the bud booster cost me about $5 less. (they're both inexpensive).
i havent seen many people in this thread using it in DWC so i'll post my progress if you'd like. im going to attempt just adding a teaspoon of mycogrow soluble for beneficial bacteria/fungii and it also has trace amounts of humic acid and kelp. hopefully this will be enough to keep any root pathogens at bay like the beneficial tea does, without having to brew a tea. i plan on changing the res every 7 days.
i ordered the maxibloom and maxigrow already, and since i have a plant right at the point to where i'd normally add the bud booster, im going to change the res today or tomorrow and dose it with the bud booster to see how it takes before water only for final 2 weeks. im currently running around 900ppm in flower with DM nutrients.
I'm wondering if i'll need to add calmag still since i'll be using RO water. i dont want to use tapwater since ive spent a lot of money on my RO system and my tap water varies from week to week. i want to have consistency so i want to dial it in with a consistent water supply. plus its really hard for me to balance PH with my tap water. in the past ive had to add about 200 drops of AN PH down to 5 gallons of water after mixing nutrients to get it down to 5.7. with RO i dont have to add any, or if i do (if i add some rhizotonic which is really high PH) i only need like 5 drops.
i hope this system works for me because i'd like to continue with DWC and be successful with it but i was not happy with the price tag on the bottled nutrients.
back to reading the rest of the thread. see you in a month when im done with the next 100 pages lol.
im only on page 48 of the thread so i have a lot of reading left to do, but i wanted to chime in.
dutch masters seems to keep my plants in a constant state of borderline yellow. i have to add calmag cuz i use RO water (even though dutchmaster says their nutes are designed for RO and there is enough calmag in there). i was considering running the lucas formula but came across this thread and in favor of saving some money (i used to flower for under $40 a cycle in soil) im giving this method a go instead.
Yes i know people say maxibloom has enough to carry through veg, but its 15 dollars so im going to run maxigrow in veg. maxibloom in flower and then the week before the 2 week water only flush i was going to go with koolbloom but the guy at the hydroshop recommended 'cultured solutions bud booster late bloom (powder)'. it's very similar to koolbloom but its designed specifically for hydro/dwc. it has a little bit higher levels of sulfur and magnesium (should add to the flavor profile) and a slightly different ratio of npk. koolbloom is 2-45-28. Bud Booster is 1-40-22. i dont have a bag of koolbloom to get the micronutrient values (i looked side by side in store) but bud booster has 2.2% magnesium and 2.7% sulfur. derived from potassium phosphate, potassium sulfate, magnesium sulfate, and ammonium phosphate. plus the bud booster cost me about $5 less. (they're both inexpensive).
i havent seen many people in this thread using it in DWC so i'll post my progress if you'd like. im going to attempt just adding a teaspoon of mycogrow soluble for beneficial bacteria/fungii and it also has trace amounts of humic acid and kelp. hopefully this will be enough to keep any root pathogens at bay like the beneficial tea does, without having to brew a tea. i plan on changing the res every 7 days.
i ordered the maxibloom and maxigrow already, and since i have a plant right at the point to where i'd normally add the bud booster, im going to change the res today or tomorrow and dose it with the bud booster to see how it takes before water only for final 2 weeks. im currently running around 900ppm in flower with DM nutrients.
I'm wondering if i'll need to add calmag still since i'll be using RO water. i dont want to use tapwater since ive spent a lot of money on my RO system and my tap water varies from week to week. i want to have consistency so i want to dial it in with a consistent water supply. plus its really hard for me to balance PH with my tap water. in the past ive had to add about 200 drops of AN PH down to 5 gallons of water after mixing nutrients to get it down to 5.7. with RO i dont have to add any, or if i do (if i add some rhizotonic which is really high PH) i only need like 5 drops.
i hope this system works for me because i'd like to continue with DWC and be successful with it but i was not happy with the price tag on the bottled nutrients.
back to reading the rest of the thread. see you in a month when im done with the next 100 pages lol.
The cal/mag is not going to hurt your plants. Use if necessary. If plant shows deficiency, then use it. By the way, you can feed calcium to your plants with a milk bath as a foliar feed. Works well. Use skim milk, and dilute with water. 9 parts water to 1 part skim milk. Spray on plants. They love it! Also prevents PM, as it is anti-fungal, and anti-bacterial. Provides calcium, phosphorous and potassium. A lot cheaper than cal/mag.
what size pots and how frequent of feeds? what e.c does 6 grams put you at?
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resinscientist
Member
bmp420gti
Member
They were in 5 gallon fabric pots, i fed them twice a week and then cycled with regular RO water. I started with an ec of 1.0 and by late flower was hitting them with 1.3, starting with RO water. Ran maxi all through veg and flower, though i did have a mag deficiency in veg on two of them, a little calmag cured that right up really fast before i went into flower. I flushed them at the end for 18 days and they took it like a champ. Heres a couple more pics
Just to clear up the whole issue of using R.O water & calmag...
A base nutrient like maxigrow has every single thing already in it. There's no need for any additional calcium or magnesium than is already in the maxigrow. Fed at the right levels, maxigrow is a perfect blend of every single mineral element that your plant needs. It is as simple as that. Bring your water up 1.0ec with just maxigrow.
There's no need to read the whole thread. The basic idea of keeping it simple revolves around focusing on the basics of plant feeding. The basics of plant feeding dictate that certain species of plants require certain ec levels of a certain NPK balance of plant food. Whatever question you've got, I'll answer right now, save you that month.
If you ran maxibloom through veg, what you saw was a nitrogen deficiency or an imbalance of nutrients. The calmag will have cleared it up because it brought your ratios into a better balance for a vegging plant.
Next time, use maxigrow at 1.0ec and you won't see that problem again. The issue is with the balance of the nutrients, not the calcium and magnesium requirements of the plant.
A base nutrient like maxigrow has every single thing already in it. There's no need for any additional calcium or magnesium than is already in the maxigrow. Fed at the right levels, maxigrow is a perfect blend of every single mineral element that your plant needs. It is as simple as that. Bring your water up 1.0ec with just maxigrow.
There's no need to read the whole thread. The basic idea of keeping it simple revolves around focusing on the basics of plant feeding. The basics of plant feeding dictate that certain species of plants require certain ec levels of a certain NPK balance of plant food. Whatever question you've got, I'll answer right now, save you that month.
If you ran maxibloom through veg, what you saw was a nitrogen deficiency or an imbalance of nutrients. The calmag will have cleared it up because it brought your ratios into a better balance for a vegging plant.
Next time, use maxigrow at 1.0ec and you won't see that problem again. The issue is with the balance of the nutrients, not the calcium and magnesium requirements of the plant.
i can vouch for this. i switched to maxigrow i veg and my plants stayed green at a lower ec. also stay with the grow util the stretch is well uderway with og kushes. or use cal mag to up the nitrogen.
Everyone who switches to maxigrow in veg will never switch back to using maxibloom in veg. I am certain of that. There is absolutely no point. It's no easier, it's no better, plus it's a waste of nutrients.
If it takes 1.8ec bloom to keep your plants green, but 1.0ec of grow puts your plants in perfect health, then think how much nutrient you're wasting.
All you're doing is putting unused phosphates back into the water supply. There is absolutely not a single other thing you're achieving whatsoever when you use maxibloom through veg. There's no benefit in terms of plant health, in fact there is a tradeoff in the sense that the grow is better.
What we've got to remember is that the irony of this thread is that if people applied the basics of plant feeding based on the proper NPK for a vegetating plant, and the proper EC as guided and set out by growers of that crop for years before - for example the usage guide for some blood and bone or fishmix- then people wouldn't need to be guided away from over-complication by sticking to one bottle at one amount for life, because they'd be feeding basic food, reading their plants, and adjusting up or down by 0.2ec...
There is no more to feeding cannabis than that, and the fact that people have lost track of this is why threads and methods like this have gained cult following and popularity, because when people use them, they have a eureka moment when they realise that yes, one bottle of plant food beginning to end actually can give you great results...
But the truth is, that's always been the case.
The maxi series is great, but let's get people onto the idea of using grow at 1.0ec in veg, because when they do, all this calmag stuff and quite big waste of nutrients... it will stop and people will also grasp the idea that they can apply those rules to any other nutrient in the world.
I actually do think the maxi G&B combo is great though and if used properly is as good as anything out there. It allows you to completely adjust the ratios throughout all stages of growth, so it can be kept perfectly simple, or it can be adjusted by the grower who wants/knows how to tweak their feeds for each stage.
If it takes 1.8ec bloom to keep your plants green, but 1.0ec of grow puts your plants in perfect health, then think how much nutrient you're wasting.
All you're doing is putting unused phosphates back into the water supply. There is absolutely not a single other thing you're achieving whatsoever when you use maxibloom through veg. There's no benefit in terms of plant health, in fact there is a tradeoff in the sense that the grow is better.
What we've got to remember is that the irony of this thread is that if people applied the basics of plant feeding based on the proper NPK for a vegetating plant, and the proper EC as guided and set out by growers of that crop for years before - for example the usage guide for some blood and bone or fishmix- then people wouldn't need to be guided away from over-complication by sticking to one bottle at one amount for life, because they'd be feeding basic food, reading their plants, and adjusting up or down by 0.2ec...
There is no more to feeding cannabis than that, and the fact that people have lost track of this is why threads and methods like this have gained cult following and popularity, because when people use them, they have a eureka moment when they realise that yes, one bottle of plant food beginning to end actually can give you great results...
But the truth is, that's always been the case.
The maxi series is great, but let's get people onto the idea of using grow at 1.0ec in veg, because when they do, all this calmag stuff and quite big waste of nutrients... it will stop and people will also grasp the idea that they can apply those rules to any other nutrient in the world.
I actually do think the maxi G&B combo is great though and if used properly is as good as anything out there. It allows you to completely adjust the ratios throughout all stages of growth, so it can be kept perfectly simple, or it can be adjusted by the grower who wants/knows how to tweak their feeds for each stage.
well heres i think most of my questions
- when using Dutchmaster nutrients they recommend 1000ppm @ .5, which is 2.0ec. you're saying that running maxibloom ONLY at 1ec (500ppm @ .5 conversion) is sufficient during flower?
- whats the ideal PH in dwc for flower and veg in your opinion? 5.6-5.8?
- some people use koolbloom late in flower, do you think its necessary, meaning will it add extra weight to the final product? i purchased cultured solutions bud booster which is basically very veyr similar to koolbloom. i used the recommended dose of 1/4tsp per gallon (i added 2tsp for 10gallons thinking it'd be strong) and my PPM was only at like 300 (which is i believe 0.6ec). so i added some maxibloom also at half dose which brought it up to 1.4. since thats only 700ppm that seemed low compared to what DM recommended on their bottled nutrients so i added 2 more tsp's bringing it up to 1.7ec.. should i drain and refill at just 1.0ec? and should i bother using the bud booster or just maxibloom? i understand that maxibloom will work good enough, but i guess my main wonder is if using the bud booster is going to add weight to the final product or if there is absolutely no benefit at all.
- i have read that if you are using lower EC's (1 is pretty low) then you wont really have build up in your plants and no flush is really necessary. if running at 1ec would you recommend a week or 2 of water only at the end (in DWC), and if so, how long?
also do you see any benefit to using half grow half bloom first 2 weeks of flower? seems that it would provide a more balanced amount of potassium and nitrogen, leading to not only healthier foliage growth during the stretch, but more budsites due to higher levels of potassium. or would you just go full on maxibloom from day 1 of the switch
