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Something wicked this way comes
- Thread starter delta9nxs
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running a side by side of a chem 91 grandpas breath cut now. 3.5g bucket vs 7 gal muck tub from tractor supply. at day 25 they are both equal
Nice, my big worry is clogging that dang tail piece.
I feel like my limited experience with coco hempy I was getting better results once I let the bucket get good and root bound.
Those gallon pots in my recirculating tub over filling with roots in 2 weeks had my me convinced 7g was the ticket. I guess I should run some 3.5s and see. If I can get away with 3.5 and 1 month veg that'll be awesome. First few runs are going to be 2 month veg though
Does anybody recall what the air filled porosity percentage is of tupur royal gold? I was going to mix up 5:1(perlite:coco) cause I remember delta mentioning that he used and liked 85% perlite 15% coco mix. Trying to steer away from rinsing turface as its a PITA to clean.
I just pulled 11 elbows out of 8 plants in my first attempt running PPK and easily could've got 12 if I had a second trellis up as plants were already flopping over at week 3 on a 9 week strain. But my friend is running the same strain and nutes, but he's hand watering coco and his flowers smell way better than mine do in PPK(turface, perlite 50/50). Any ideas as to why this is?
FakeSunGrower
Member
I just pulled 11 elbows out of 8 plants in my first attempt running PPK and easily could've got 12 if I had a second trellis up as plants were already flopping over at week 3 on a 9 week strain. But my friend is running the same strain and nutes, but he's hand watering coco and his flowers smell way better than mine do in PPK(turface, perlite 50/50). Any ideas as to why this is?[/QUOTE]
I have experienced the same phenomenon when switching from DWC to coco , for some reason the cut that I always run (over 5 runs) has more SMELL? To it , also when I started flowering with coco the plants seems to stink more ,there's gotta be an explanation. Hopefully a pro can answer this .
I have experienced the same phenomenon when switching from DWC to coco , for some reason the cut that I always run (over 5 runs) has more SMELL? To it , also when I started flowering with coco the plants seems to stink more ,there's gotta be an explanation. Hopefully a pro can answer this .
redneckhippie
Member
Thanks for replies, I've read of several different cycle settings. IIRC, an older thread using flood ran 2 - 3 hours between cycles. in this thread I find
Does that mean he's pulsing one quart into each 7 gallon tub? If I scale that ratio down to my 1 gal containers, less than 5 oz of water per pulse?
Concerning pulse feed with water ring, if you deliver the same amount of water in a 24 hour period using more frequent + smaller feedings vs. less frequent + larger feedings, what is the difference?
I know that media differs, assuming the current perlite/turfite mixture, is there a general guideline of how long it should "dry out" between feedings?
That's so weird!
For anybody interested, I got an AFP of 37% with a ratio of 5:2 mother earth #4 perlite and plagron Coco. I'm going to try this mix to see if there will be a difference in smell since it's Coco based.
lately, starting with a 8in-1ft clone established in a 5x5 pot, repotting into the 3.5 gal, i average just about a month of veg. give or take a week genetic dependit. some have 2 clones , some only one. usually within the month i have a 24-30" bush with the same diameter, topped an topped ....an did i mention topped.40-50+ sites per bush.
2 clones per site is the way to go in my eyes if u can. u dont get double yields., maybe 30% more per site vs 1 plant. but it def cuts down your veg time.
can anyone post up a pic of how high their water level is in the 3.5 gal bucket, or measure it for me? i know it said something about a 4" air gap so does that mean that the water is 4" down from the rim? thanks. i think mine might be a couple inches too high.
hey gmanwho, how far are your DE fixtures away from your tops? been looking into getting a DE to test but i only have 8 foot ceilings. its dimmable so i dont have to worry if its too much. i still think a DE at 750 would beat my SE 1000w with cheap bulbs.
ya like 4- 6 inches will work. one of my rooms, because of uneven floors, i have to shim the buckets with two pieces of 1x3. to get that side up higher then the opposite side of the system. otherwise it will be like 2.5 inches to rim or i should say bucket lid. but i tend to like the bigger air gaps, so 5-6+ is what i go for.
dh, the lights are on a 5x6ft pattern. i dim down to 600w at first. maintain like 36-40" when things come off transplant an early veg an i tend to lower the lights 10 days in. or if they closed that gap i will up the wattage to 660-750,825. yellowing or deficiency depend it. then try to maintain a 20-24" throughout.
with the de's its super easy to over do the light an the roots cant keep up an the plants show deficiency after deficiency. when the nutes "probably" had enough food, an the problem really was that you where smacking them with to much light. or the radiant heat from the lights where frying the leafs. room maybe 68-75f, but the radiant heat at the canopy could have been 100f. u can feel the sun burn under these lights...
the de's really come down to an energy thing. same room i would have to go with 8 -1000w hortilux bulbs i have 6 de's dimmed down to 600w an pulling a total of 3600w at first, then say 4950w at the 825w setting. thats a 3000w difference vs running the full 8000w horti room. then i say well im saving 3000watts here, thats some good wattage i can put towards another room. not to mention the 10,000 hour bulb life. one room i ran the de philips bulbs a little over 4 years!! an that room still was had my highest efficiency.
an i go from one room to two then 3,4,5. so then my 5 separate rooms im really pulling the same wattage as 3-1/2 older horti rooms...... not factoring in the ac. but if a 1000w still needs 3500btus of cooling. it makes not difference if im running all in 3 rooms or split up between 5 rooms. the wattage is still the same.
so i tend to say well these de's allow me to run 5 rooms verse 3 1/2. how about that for efficiency?? then when u factoring in the lowering price of product, in most regions, to produce an ounce for $40 or so dollars. your able to compete ( minus real estate an equipment cost, just factoring nutrients,power, an $2500 a month for help)
basically running 3 equal size rooms with the consumption of 2.
dh, the lights are on a 5x6ft pattern. i dim down to 600w at first. maintain like 36-40" when things come off transplant an early veg an i tend to lower the lights 10 days in. or if they closed that gap i will up the wattage to 660-750,825. yellowing or deficiency depend it. then try to maintain a 20-24" throughout.
with the de's its super easy to over do the light an the roots cant keep up an the plants show deficiency after deficiency. when the nutes "probably" had enough food, an the problem really was that you where smacking them with to much light. or the radiant heat from the lights where frying the leafs. room maybe 68-75f, but the radiant heat at the canopy could have been 100f. u can feel the sun burn under these lights...
the de's really come down to an energy thing. same room i would have to go with 8 -1000w hortilux bulbs i have 6 de's dimmed down to 600w an pulling a total of 3600w at first, then say 4950w at the 825w setting. thats a 3000w difference vs running the full 8000w horti room. then i say well im saving 3000watts here, thats some good wattage i can put towards another room. not to mention the 10,000 hour bulb life. one room i ran the de philips bulbs a little over 4 years!! an that room still was had my highest efficiency.
an i go from one room to two then 3,4,5. so then my 5 separate rooms im really pulling the same wattage as 3-1/2 older horti rooms...... not factoring in the ac. but if a 1000w still needs 3500btus of cooling. it makes not difference if im running all in 3 rooms or split up between 5 rooms. the wattage is still the same.
so i tend to say well these de's allow me to run 5 rooms verse 3 1/2. how about that for efficiency?? then when u factoring in the lowering price of product, in most regions, to produce an ounce for $40 or so dollars. your able to compete ( minus real estate an equipment cost, just factoring nutrients,power, an $2500 a month for help)
basically running 3 equal size rooms with the consumption of 2.
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that was kind of my plan as well to run the new DEva 1000 at around 750w to cover the same area and save a couple thousand watts per building. im already using 5 600w LED COB rigs in there that cover a 4.4X4.5 area extremely well and already saving a couple thousand watts. the rest of my 12 lights are regular SE 1k.
can I use a 2.5" tailpiece in a 3.5 gal bucket?
can I use a 2.5" tailpiece in a 3.5 gal bucket?
I'm ready to move veg plants into the 3.5 gallon buckets I've decided to use instead of the 7 gallon pans. Since these are smaller than the 7 gal pan do I still need to use the 3" pvc tailpiece or can I use the 1.5" tailpiece? Which is best, or does it make much of a difference.
Also - where do you get the 7 gallon oil drain pans?
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can I use a 2.5" tailpiece in a 3.5 gal bucket?
I'm ready to move veg plants into the 3.5 gallon buckets I've decided to use instead of the 7 gallon pans. Since these are smaller than the 7 gal pan do I still need to use the 3" pvc tailpiece or can I use the 1.5" tailpiece? Which is best, or does it make much of a difference.
Also - where do you get the 7 gallon oil drain pans?
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I use the 1.5" tailpipe in my 3.5g stacked. So, yes, you can.
You get the 7g feed pans from tractor supply co.
i like the wide short pans. they are expensive but reusable and sturdy as hell. 3" pvc helps prevent blockages i would expect. the roots will get massive! i originally used 3 X 1.5 in tailpieces but found the upgrade to be much nicer
my monstercropped PPK plants are bushing out HARD. gonna be monsters with a bunch of vertical 1000w bare bulbs on them. gonna give them a couple more weeks of veg and then flip them
my monstercropped PPK plants are bushing out HARD. gonna be monsters with a bunch of vertical 1000w bare bulbs on them. gonna give them a couple more weeks of veg and then flip them
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i use the 3" pvc in the 3.5 gal. with perlite in the tailpiece. def would go with 3" an not the 1.5"
i know d9 may disapprove, but i also pop like 10-12 1/4in holes in the upper bucket bottom. i like to see the buckets drain fast as my feed can deliver atleast a quart in about 12 seconds. higher flow i found easier to get more consistent delivery to each site. i just have to decrease the " On time" of the pump.
also was able to get food grade 3.5 gal buckets at .50 cents a piece. so didnt wanna spend the coin on a total of 72 muck tubs (down to 48 now in the same amount of space). an which no place around me had more then 5-6 muck tubs in stock at a time. so 3.5 gal buckets it is.
i know d9 may disapprove, but i also pop like 10-12 1/4in holes in the upper bucket bottom. i like to see the buckets drain fast as my feed can deliver atleast a quart in about 12 seconds. higher flow i found easier to get more consistent delivery to each site. i just have to decrease the " On time" of the pump.
also was able to get food grade 3.5 gal buckets at .50 cents a piece. so didnt wanna spend the coin on a total of 72 muck tubs (down to 48 now in the same amount of space). an which no place around me had more then 5-6 muck tubs in stock at a time. so 3.5 gal buckets it is.
I just don't like how tall two 3.5s are. I only have 8ft and I'm trying to grow trees. my structure with these was fucked from the get-go so i will not be scrogging them like I wanted to. the branches kept snapping when I tried one. these will be vert bare-bulbed in the diamond pattern.
the next round of clones will be mainlined from the beginning until I have a substantial amount of arms that will turn into lucrative donkey phalluses. here's a baby that I mainlined to practice with. she is looking GREAT right now. I love her structure. this pic is about 2 weeks old now and she is way more developed.
the next round of clones will be mainlined from the beginning until I have a substantial amount of arms that will turn into lucrative donkey phalluses. here's a baby that I mainlined to practice with. she is looking GREAT right now. I love her structure. this pic is about 2 weeks old now and she is way more developed.
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ya the snapping branches do suck. but with the same breath i will say plant health an proper training prior can help greatly.
i remember plenty of times trying to train monsters an branches snapping. really came down to letting things go to far, an plant health. imbalanced nutes
nice when the plants health an branches bend like they are supposed to
i remember plenty of times trying to train monsters an branches snapping. really came down to letting things go to far, an plant health. imbalanced nutes
nice when the plants health an branches bend like they are supposed to
