FCDobbs
Active member
Thx. I have read so many pages on this but still I miss stuff. Ill change my meter to .5
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Something wicked this way comes
- Thread starter delta9nxs
- Start date
Thx. I have read so many pages on this but still I miss stuff. Ill change my meter to .5
There are different standards for PPM measurement. Most meters have the 500 scale (.5 ppm) and the 700 scale (.7ppm). So, when you use your meter make sure you are referencing the 500 scale at 900ppm.
I'm not sure if this thread is dead, but I'm going to give it a try. Any of you PPK gurus out there please throw me a lifeline.
I'm trying D9s new medium prococo. I did as he instructed and broke up the block with 1900 ppm and 5.2 ph. However, instead of going straight into the ppk system, I went from clones to solo cups with the prococo and hand watered to start. My solution of Jack's was at 900 ppm and 5.8 ph. However (and this could be the source of my downfall) the water temp was on the very low side at about 55 F.
I also watered daily as that is far less than the every hour in a ppk system. But fairly early on the plants started showing signs of being over watered (I believe), leaves curling down and in. I did not correct this overwatering right away because I figured that could not be the issue as this stuff is pretty porous and airy.
Eventually I transplanted into those blue 2.5 quart pots D9 used to use for pre-veg. When transplanted, roots were definitely not very well developed, no signs of rot or anything, just very few roots.
I've since increased the water temp to 68 F, lowered the ppm to about 500, and decreased my watering frequency to when the pot was fairly dry. Most of the plants have bounced back pretty well, but even the once that are looking healthy have white tips, which I understand to be a sign of nute burn. But about 25% of the plants are still looking really poor.
I still have not hooked them up to the automatic drippers, but they are sitting in the ppk system with tail piece at a 4" gap.
Not sure how to fix this, any advice is appreciated. Last pic shows particularly nasty leaf signs, light green stripes, but this is only happening for one of the four stains. Also, forgot to mention that another symptom is that bottom leaves die, dry up and fall off.
I'm trying D9s new medium prococo. I did as he instructed and broke up the block with 1900 ppm and 5.2 ph. However, instead of going straight into the ppk system, I went from clones to solo cups with the prococo and hand watered to start. My solution of Jack's was at 900 ppm and 5.8 ph. However (and this could be the source of my downfall) the water temp was on the very low side at about 55 F.
I also watered daily as that is far less than the every hour in a ppk system. But fairly early on the plants started showing signs of being over watered (I believe), leaves curling down and in. I did not correct this overwatering right away because I figured that could not be the issue as this stuff is pretty porous and airy.
Eventually I transplanted into those blue 2.5 quart pots D9 used to use for pre-veg. When transplanted, roots were definitely not very well developed, no signs of rot or anything, just very few roots.
I've since increased the water temp to 68 F, lowered the ppm to about 500, and decreased my watering frequency to when the pot was fairly dry. Most of the plants have bounced back pretty well, but even the once that are looking healthy have white tips, which I understand to be a sign of nute burn. But about 25% of the plants are still looking really poor.
I still have not hooked them up to the automatic drippers, but they are sitting in the ppk system with tail piece at a 4" gap.
Not sure how to fix this, any advice is appreciated. Last pic shows particularly nasty leaf signs, light green stripes, but this is only happening for one of the four stains. Also, forgot to mention that another symptom is that bottom leaves die, dry up and fall off.
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FCDobbs
Active member
i was gonna say the third pick with the heavy yellow new growth, an the swollen interveinal look dead on for russet mites. looks like sulfur def
only way ive ever beat them is back down to small clones, go nuclear twice an mix with mpede an suffoil-x. mom the clones out an continue the mpede-sufoil atleast once a week.
Im sure ill catch some shit for saying this but when i mean nuclear i meant bifenthrine, or im not sure if kontos will kill them off, i forget. i make a dipping solution an dip the top side of the plants only. its important to note something like bifenthrine when watering into the medium it can stay around for a year in soil or medium. so by treating only the topside the half life of biphenthrine is much less, like 70 days. the half life is much less due to the toxin not binding with soil an its now exposed to oxygen.(not covered with soil or medium, exposed to oxygen is the key element). There are a few research papers on the old internet that show how long pesticides or herbicides stick around IN SOIL,once they are watered into the soil or medium they stay around for muchhhhh longer.
When the new growth emerges from THE CLONES any residual bifenthrine will become less an less. after that point those flowers hitting the bag it will be a solid 120-150+ days since any of that plant has seen a toxin. the plant from a clone to a mature flowered plant has expanded thousands of times reducing the original exposure.
then these original moms will be cleaned up an never flowered out, cuts will be taken an biphenthrine wont be used again. its important to clean all your equipment an pots an stakes an scissors etc. they will come back if your lazy. then the cycle starts all over again. mpede an suffoil-x is what i use on a bi-weekly ipm for any insect or spores. Once u get them eradicated by going nuclear, any new infestation will be dealt with from the dips
best of luck
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Thanks. I've been doing a ton of research since I found out about them. Some university paper listed some effective pesticides including Avid, Pylon, and a few I haven't heard of. But they claim Forbid will also kill the eggs when others don't. Some people say they have killed them with sulfur spray, some with Avid and Floramite in rotation. Other with the Biologicals.
But I called a friend who I remember had russet mites a while back and ask what her experience was. She said she is still fighting with them, and she has reset her room and cleaned everything and they still come back. This scared the shit out of me.
So, I've decided to kill all plants and nuke the room and reset. I'm in my last week of flower so after harvest I can reset everything and only lose my veg plants. I just do not want to have to go through the kind of hell she is describing.
BTW - I'm trying to figure out how I got them because I did not take in clones or have anyone in my room. I was wondering if it is even possible to get them from the prococo? I know other people who do regular coco talk about pests, never hear russet though. Also, the prococo is a compressed block so I would think it would be harder for them to survive in that?
Snook
Still Learning
I used regular coco (brand??) way back, compressed bricks too. It lasted only one run and then BANG... gnats! flying bugs everywhere.. first time ever. Went back to turface, not a bug since. I am getting tired of cleaning (washing) the turface between grows though and thought this coco might be the answer. Dont want bugs.
Just to be clear, I'm not saying that I got the mites from the coco, I'm just wondering it that is where they might have come from. I don't know how they could have come in, no clones, no one else came into the room, and I have no plants outside.
F gnats are very common in soil, and pretty common in coco. But I've not yet heard anyone on the forums say they got anything nastier than that. But, I can't see why it wouldn't be possible.
I'm going to call the company and see what they have to say about it. Of course they will likely say their product does not have bugs even if they don't know for sure. But if they do a steam press process, which I'm not sure if all blocks are done like that, then that seems to me to be unlikely that mites could survive that. However, if gnats are surviving it then surely mites could.
Was always a bit amazed that more did not go with it real time as it was being developed.
There were many years in which D9 was on hand to support it and respond to questions
or help with issues.
There was indeed some really nice documentation that was lost over time.
Some of the animated drawings and illustrations really worked for me as a means understanding the system.
Have gone though many of the threads over and over and felt like I found new value each time I did so.
I think of it as the most impressive means to grow that I have ever seen or used.
A PPK, took me from an inability to meet my own needs, to abundance more quickly than I
thought possible.
There were many years in which D9 was on hand to support it and respond to questions
or help with issues.
There was indeed some really nice documentation that was lost over time.
Some of the animated drawings and illustrations really worked for me as a means understanding the system.
Have gone though many of the threads over and over and felt like I found new value each time I did so.
I think of it as the most impressive means to grow that I have ever seen or used.
A PPK, took me from an inability to meet my own needs, to abundance more quickly than I
thought possible.
sublingual
Well-known member
.
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Absolute pleasure to stumble back into delta9nxs's content and more recent postings after researching some Jack's ratios.
I've hauled my PPK system, 7 gal feed pans on 3.5 buckets from garage to garage for nearly 10 years now, imagining one day I'd return to this beautiful masterpiece of redundancy and insane growth in some sort of magical passive hydronic hookup action.
I'm still at it these days, but simply using fixed 1% dosatrons to push jacks @ 4/2 through coco, drain to waste/crop steer, like everybody else. With no more napa floor dry, no line on turface, my original PPKs sit merely to reminisce over.
Nearly 100% Perlite, castings, verm, and DE. Was I reading correctly? Am I dreaming right now. I gotta find my way back, and here I am.
I've hauled my PPK system, 7 gal feed pans on 3.5 buckets from garage to garage for nearly 10 years now, imagining one day I'd return to this beautiful masterpiece of redundancy and insane growth in some sort of magical passive hydronic hookup action.
I'm still at it these days, but simply using fixed 1% dosatrons to push jacks @ 4/2 through coco, drain to waste/crop steer, like everybody else. With no more napa floor dry, no line on turface, my original PPKs sit merely to reminisce over.
Nearly 100% Perlite, castings, verm, and DE. Was I reading correctly? Am I dreaming right now. I gotta find my way back, and here I am.
greyfader
Well-known member
hey buddy! here are the pics from the 10k sq ft cbd room i designed, built, and directed operations for 3 years after i left oregon. this was in Nashville. the company is owned by the adult children of some very famous country music stars.
the first is a canopy shot of one 60x5' row, the plant is purple mesa cbd. 18%
next a shot of the veg room, then a couple of the flower room so you can see the basic plumbing layout.
all recirculating with res changes only when PH begins to get hard to keep under about 6.5. the slow change of PH is your monitoring method to decide when to change the solution. it indicates that the solution is slowly getting out of whack. typically we changed out the entire room about 2 times per year.
all prococco chips and fiber. but for the last 3 years i've been running perlite amended with worm castings and DE. no fucking bugs! ever! not one! at this point, i'm positive that fungus gnat eggs are in most of the coco on the market.
the next one is what an 800 amp panel looks like if anyone is interested.
then i thought i'd throw in a couple of yours just for old times sake.
then 3 of one of my last plants in the perlite mix. i never changed the solution out in this grow. i see i got some of the pics out of order but you know which is which.
as you can see we used 4 plants to a 5x5. 3 week veg time from clone container and then into the flower room. all modular with carts designed to hold the plants as we moved them.
the entire facility was run with only 6 people besides me and i didn't do shit except point.
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