FCDobbs
Active member
In https://www.icmag.com/ic/showpost.php?p=8391554&postcount=1090 he mentions .5 conversion
Thx. I have read so many pages on this but still I miss stuff. Ill change my meter to .5
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In https://www.icmag.com/ic/showpost.php?p=8391554&postcount=1090 he mentions .5 conversion
There are different standards for PPM measurement. Most meters have the 500 scale (.5 ppm) and the 700 scale (.7ppm). So, when you use your meter make sure you are referencing the 500 scale at 900ppm.I'm also wondering the same as the above post. Just saw D9's post about giving coco chips-n-fiber a shot and that he uses a nutrient solution of 900 ppm @ 0.5 EC? I'm not sure what EC my Apera PPM meter is.. Should I be measuring 900 ppm with my meter? (Was always using 650-ish PPM before)
Just thought I would follow up on my issue. Found out today the devastating news that I have Russet mites. These are apparently really nasty critters, bad damage and hard as hell to get rid of.
Just thought I would follow up on my issue. Found out today the devastating news that I have Russet mites. These are apparently really nasty critters, bad damage and hard as hell to get rid of.
Thanks. I've been doing a ton of research since I found out about them. Some university paper listed some effective pesticides including Avid, Pylon, and a few I haven't heard of. But they claim Forbid will also kill the eggs when others don't. Some people say they have killed them with sulfur spray, some with Avid and Floramite in rotation. Other with the Biologicals.i was gonna say the third pick with the heavy yellow new growth, an the swollen interveinal look dead on for russet mites. looks like sulfur def
only way ive ever beat them is back down to small clones, go nuclear twice an mix with mpede an suffoil-x. mom the clones out an continue the mpede-sufoil atleast once a week.
Im sure ill catch some shit for saying this but when i mean nuclear i meant bifenthrine, or im not sure if kontos will kill them off, i forget. i make a dipping solution an dip the top side of the plants only. its important to note something like bifenthrine when watering into the medium it can stay around for a year in soil or medium. so by treating only the topside the half life of biphenthrine is much less, like 70 days. the half life is much less due to the toxin not binding with soil an its now exposed to oxygen.(not covered with soil or medium, exposed to oxygen is the key element). There are a few research papers on the old internet that show how long pesticides or herbicides stick around IN SOIL,once they are watered into the soil or medium they stay around for muchhhhh longer.
When the new growth emerges from THE CLONES any residual bifenthrine will become less an less. after that point those flowers hitting the bag it will be a solid 120-150+ days since any of that plant has seen a toxin. the plant from a clone to a mature flowered plant has expanded thousands of times reducing the original exposure.
then these original moms will be cleaned up an never flowered out, cuts will be taken an biphenthrine wont be used again. its important to clean all your equipment an pots an stakes an scissors etc. they will come back if your lazy. then the cycle starts all over again. mpede an suffoil-x is what i use on a bi-weekly ipm for any insect or spores. Once u get them eradicated by going nuclear, any new infestation will be dealt with from the dips
best of luck
Just to be clear, I'm not saying that I got the mites from the coco, I'm just wondering it that is where they might have come from. I don't know how they could have come in, no clones, no one else came into the room, and I have no plants outside.I used regular coco (brand??) way back, compressed bricks too. It lasted only one run and then BANG... gnats! flying bugs everywhere.. first time ever. Went back to turface, not a bug since. I am getting tired of cleaning (washing) the turface between grows though and thought this coco might be the answer. Dont want bugs.
It’s nearly impossible to get any info unless we dig for old grow journals in these forums,and some growers have resorted to other systems instead.Nice to see a resurgence of interest in the system, have long thought of it as the more reasonable
alternative to an undercurrent system.
with love, bro!Was always a bit amazed that more did not go with it real time as it was being developed.
There were many years in which D9 was on hand to support it and respond to questions
or help with issues.
There was indeed some really nice documentation that was lost over time.
Some of the animated drawings and illustrations really worked for me as a means understanding the system.
Have gone though many of the threads over and over and felt like I found new value each time I did so.
I think of it as the most impressive means to grow that I have ever seen or used.
A PPK, took me from an inability to meet my own needs, to abundance more quickly than I
thought possible.
hey buddy! here are the pics from the 10k sq ft cbd room i designed, built, and directed operations for 3 years after i left oregon. this was in Nashville. the company is owned by the adult children of some very famous country music stars.Absolute pleasure to stumble back into delta9nxs's content and more recent postings after researching some Jack's ratios.
I've hauled my PPK system, 7 gal feed pans on 3.5 buckets from garage to garage for nearly 10 years now, imagining one day I'd return to this beautiful masterpiece of redundancy and insane growth in some sort of magical passive hydronic hookup action.
I'm still at it these days, but simply using fixed 1% dosatrons to push jacks @ 4/2 through coco, drain to waste/crop steer, like everybody else. With no more napa floor dry, no line on turface, my original PPKs sit merely to reminisce over.
Nearly 100% Perlite, castings, verm, and DE. Was I reading correctly? Am I dreaming right now. I gotta find my way back, and here I am.