Nomaad OD:2010

[NorCalMeds]

nomaad much thanks to you, i've followed a lot of your steps and have been following the whole grow, So thanks for all the advice you have given.

You have anything for coverage during rain or do you let mother nature do it's damage?

 

[Trinity Gold]

Madrus Rose

I can tell you right now that even at 1/2 tsp per gallon and spraying your 40 x 40 room..you use what ...20 ish gallons? so 10 tsp of Eagle 20 over your 40 x 40 room...well, that is a nice dose of strobilurin a fungicide labeled safe for use only on turf and apple trees ... I could not call anything from a set up justifying the improper use of a funigcide "medicine" ...Why would you even need a "preventative" if your ag practice is up to snuff?

Indoor the air handlers should all have UV lights in them and charcoal screens to scrub the air of any spores and particulates as it cycles...Sulfur and Potassium Bicarbonate and a PROPERLY SET UP ROOM are all you need to stop PM...not fungicides that are TOXIC to consume!!

Give thanks for organics and Big Love always..

On another note..why all the references to grape growing? Cannabis and Wine/Table grape production couldn't be more different...Ya'll should be looking at info on Giant Pumpkins...! They are the only other group of growers willing to pull as many stops and spend as much money as cannabis growers to grow that one big one...

VRIC @ UC Davis is a great place to do off season reading.

 

[onetime64]

we are using 1/2gram of RALLY for 4 gallons of water..... which is 1/8th of the lowest recommend dose....

 

[nomaad]

On the subject of chemical fungicides: I'm trying not to use anything that isn't organic. Besides possible risks to my health and the health of the patients I grow for, there are proven detrimental effects on the environment from many of these products.

Even OMRI listed products can have effects that should be avoided. For example, I have curtailed my use of Spinosad because it kills bees.

Butte once brought up the idea of "acceptable losses"... its something to think about. All mainstream farming practice takes into account the probability of losing a certain percentage to pathogens and pests...

I am committed to refining my practice to 100% organics. I'm not there yet, but I am certainly beyond accepting chemical pesticides and fungicides. Even if it means a certain amount of crop loss. My patients can always count on that. And I would never allow my crew to handle the stuff in the first place.

As for testing, I am going to be going with Collective Wellness. What I know about Steep Hill Labs is does not fill me with any confidence. A reputable grower I know did some digging into their practice and found it severely lacking and unworthy of the confidence of patients.

Plough: What happens when I put you on ignore? The only reason I don't is because I want to be able to step in and call you on it when you're being a twat. TG's contribution to this thread outweighs yours substantially. shhhh.

 

[plough]

Plough: What happens when I put you on ignore? The only reason I don't is because I want to be able to step in and call you on it when you're being a twat. TG's contribution to this thread outweighs yours substantially. shhhh.

just relax. I'll keep outta your hair.

 

[nomaad]

Norcalmeds: last year, I got a bit crazed with covering everything against mid October wind and rain storms.

This year, the plants are simply too big for any kind of strategy like last year. I was thinking of erecting a gabled steel tube structure from Creative Shelters over the whole garden... we shall see.

 

[feenom]

hey nomaad what is your procedure for hatching to the trich wasps?

in the mornings i have found some moths resting on the soil then i disturb them with my fertilizer stream and they fly to the canopy. do you think they have a preference for where they lay their eggs?

i've got 8 commerical sized sticky traps on order should be here middle of the week.

no sign of the shit brained cat pillars yet but for now it's sticky traps and trichs then comes BT if need be...

peace

 

[plough]

hey nomaad what is your procedure for hatching to the trich wasps?

in the mornings i have found some moths resting on the soil do then i disturb them and they fly to the canopy. do you think they have a preference for where they lay their eggs?

i've got 8 commerical sized sticky traps on order should be here middle of the week. peace

what are wasps supposed to do?

 

[plough]

hey nomaad what is your procedure for hatching to the trich wasps?

in the mornings i have found some moths resting on the soil do then i disturb them and they fly to the canopy. do you think they have a preference for where they lay their eggs?

i've got 8 commerical sized sticky traps on order should be here middle of the week. peace

seriously...I'm just here to ask the stupid questions. your question sounds intelligent. Please explain. You're worried about moths?

 

[Grow+Positive]

Moths lay eggs that hatch into caterpillars that eat your buds and shit all over your plants. And if you got em, you got ALOT of em

I would assume they'd lay the eggs nearest the food source. Im pretty sure when I had them they hatched on the plant

 

[nomaad]

Trichogramma wasps lay their eggs in the moth/caterpillar eggs. When the wasp egg hatches, it immediately eats the moth larva as a first meal. That is about as elegant as murder gets.

Last year, I simply hung the little wasp egg cards inside a few of my plants. Is there something more you have to do to hatch them?

 

[DHF]

...............

 

[UnknownProphet]

Happy page 100...By far one of the most looked at/discussed/drunkenly ranted in threads on IC.

P.S. Caterpillars fucking suck...they destroyed a couple of my plants last year including one that was a favorite until that catastrophy.

For shits and giggles...

 

[hogan400]

hey nomaad, im starting to experience my first season mold issues... all my people say its normal and everybody has some in this area. i been plucking it by hand and spraying the removal sites with peroxide / safers fungicide in order to stop the spread. we did have a touch of rain 2 days prior to covering. what do you think? any suggestions or products i can use? thanks.

 

[Madrus Rose]

Madrus Rose

I can tell you right now that even at 1/2 tsp per gallon and spraying your 40 x 40 room..you use what ...20 ish gallons? so 10 tsp of Eagle 20 over your 40 x 40 room...well, that is a nice dose of strobilurin a fungicide labeled safe for use only on turf and apple trees ... I could not call anything from a set up justifying the improper use of a funigcide "medicine" ...Why would you even need a "preventative" if your ag practice is up to snuff?

Sulfur and Potassium Bicarbonate and a PROPERLY SET UP ROOM are all you need to stop PM...not fungicides that are TOXIC to consume!!

VRIC @ UC Davis is a great place to do off season reading.

No its just 1/2tsp E20 in 2gal Hudson Atomist Electric Fogger - ULVHudson Atomist Electric Fogger - ULV with baby shampoo for surficant ....end up using maybe 1 1/2gals or less of that mix to cover everything , so pretty minimal . Did get too caught up tday to call Dow AG , just to c what the breakdown on these two products is .

^ For mite control , foliar feeding , etc , these electric fogger/misters are the absolute bomb & indoor coverage of 40x40ft takes barely 10mins .

Some very heavy duty Mister Sprayers here by Dramm ,
if u need to cover a football field or more
http://www.dramm.com/html/main.isx?sub=12

 

[nomaad]

Hogan: sounds like you're on top of it. You might also want to look into Potassium Bicarbonate aka Greencure aka Kaligreen for mold prevention.

LOL @ Bug Devil.

I'm interested to hear any insight regarding whether these critters prefer certain strains over others and if any strains are entirely cat-proof?

 

[UnknownProphet]

When I first noticed the eggs I went apeshit crazy and spent mulitple-hour sessions picking through everything. The Gob 9 wasn't touched somehow aswell as the blue dream so you'll be a great judge to see what'll happen, or if it was just a plant getting lucky. Anyways that'd be awesome to find just one more reason that the BD is impecable. The NYCD's were hit pretty bad to the point where I culled a couple. I'm not sure if it was a conicident or not but my most crystalized plant (a NYCD) was basically infested. I think I may have over looked many of the eggs mistaking them for glands of THC. Red Dragon also had very little attack but it still was attacked.

 

[Cannasseur]

Ya'll should be looking at info on Giant Pumpkins...! They are the only other group of growers willing to pull as many stops and spend as much money as cannabis growers to grow that one big one...

Agreed, world class pumpkin growers seriously kill it...

...Who said organics aren't efficient?

 

[Yankee Grower]

i have read many respected people on IC mag say that the longer the veg phase the more potent the medicine should be. isn't that also one of the reasons we take a clone off a seed plant to flower it indoors? so the plant is fully mature when it gets forced into 12/12.

My understanding is this is true for sats or sat dominant plants from seed but after a certain age you will not see any improvement. Just takes them a bit longer to reach full maturity.

Nomaad - thx for the tour. Everything is looking awesome...the pics don't quite do your garden justice. Glad you finally combed your sherpa...lol.

 

[nomaad]

YG: You are most welcome. Its difficult to appreciate the scale of things in photos...

Cannasseur: Not sure what I am seeing there, but it looks like the stem of that gourd has been grafted back onto the gourd at the spot where the square of white is... ?! really? or is the white square just a contact barrier between the vine and the pumpkin? either way, big fucking pumpkin.