Giveaway New giveaway for new year's new light trend talk

[exploziv]

#34 - A pair or straps of steel cable 15-20 cm long and with loops at the ends to be used when hanging the lights carabins over tent suppost bars or other suports that are bigger than those carabins can handle. I usually use short chain pieces for this, but it would sure be nice to find a hanging solution that will fit your tents supports right in each lights box.

 

[unclefishstick]

#33 - A cheap bubble level indicator to show when unit is hanging right, integrated into the light or provided as a stick-on. Not really something you can't do without but it would be more easy to arrage a bunch of panels over a canopy, to sit at same, equal level.

you would need two bubble levels...x and y axis...

 

[exploziv]

you would need two bubble levels...x and y axis...

Not really, cause most of them have just 2 points of support? That spread into 2 equal links that keep the light level on one axys. But there are smart bubble levels for centering out there that are 360deg. Like the ones for centering tripods.

 

[flylowgethigh]

#34 - A pair or straps of steel cable 15-20 cm long and with loops at the ends to be used when hanging the lights carabins over tent suppost bars or other suports that are bigger than those carabins can handle. I usually use short chain pieces for this, but it would sure be nice to find a hanging solution that will fit your tents supports right in each lights box.

A short piece of lightweight decorative chain, just big enough to fit the caribiner through, wrapped around the top bar and the caribiner put through both ends. Works perfect, lasts a long time.

 

[flylowgethigh]

This might be come ture in future.

The camera needs to be thermal IR, and the lead goes to the controller. The controller senses, the light gets controlled.

The thermal IR sensor, looking down at the plant tops, can be used as an input to how much power to apply. Reads leaf temperature. Mounts to the light bar, with height above/below the bar adjustable. Mount on any bar, and point where you want.

Light company should have a Ram style mount for a visual spectrum or IR camera to mount to their light bars. Light company should design and build a remote light height unit that can be remote controlled (0-10 vdc), before someone else does. It would fit ALL lights and ALL tents.

When you can remote control the light power, and IF we could control the light height, a thermal IR sensor displaying on the controller system's monitor, would be sweet. Controllers are only going to get better. There is probably already one that does all this by phone.

IMO light companies should focus on their controlled lights, and other related accessories like separate add-on IR and UV. Stick to the laundry, so to speak.

 

[flylowgethigh]

There might be one in this year. Stay tuned.

Yes indeed!! Mars on the move.

 

[unclefishstick]

Not really, cause most of them have just 2 points of support? That spread into 2 equal links that keep the light level on one axys. But there are smart bubble levels for centering out there that are 360deg. Like the ones for centering tripods.

forgot about those type of levels...

 

[flylowgethigh]

#8 - a controller and/or app extension to control the lamps as an option

• addable to one lamp in a connected cluster to control all the connected lamps
• maybe i want to start with 50% power for an hour, then go up to 100% for 9 and back to 50% for the rest 2 hours for example
• timing the extension kits when to start
• humidity and temperature sensors
• maybe 2 slots to add another temp or humidity sensor between the plants

They already did it... but the light is controllable by a controller that does the functions.

https://www.icmag.com/forum/marijuan...t#post18056672

 

[gizmo666]

With all the changes like different cables, thermal cameras, levels, automatic height pulleys
The lights will cost a fortune
Maybe Mars would be better offering a personalised custom builds on request option

 

[flylowgethigh]

The controller is what uses the add-ons. Lights are to make light, per the standardized controller signals. A good controller would be able to handle as many add-ons as they can make ports for, and have enough fools who want to spend their money. I wonder if Labview software could be used. Who makes controllers anyways, besides Growers Choice?

The light height box should have a manual knob to raise or lower it from the front of the tent. A ratchet and crank would work for a basic device.

The same way Mars has their driver controller - You can change power with the knob if you switch it into manual - That same relay system could probably be used to run the height motor (light up, light down, changed by rotating the cross shaft one way or the other to reel-in or let-out cable. Anybody who has had to reach back into the corner of a 4 x 4 with big plants, so they can ratchet up the light out of those plants, knows what I mean with needing the gizmo to raise it.

If the height thing could be sold for $200, I bet it would be popular. Fits all sizes, as the mount is to the upper tent frames front and rear, and the cross tube sections can slide inside each other to adjust the reach to the back tent wall where the rear bearing mount is attached to the upper rear tent tube. The pulleys attach to the side upper tubes, like the upper ratchets do now.

This idea to use a " rotating cross tube" to reel the "cable or rope" as it winds/unwinds, is open source, and has been described here on ICMag as such. Stay away Drew.

A person could use a piece of 1" schedule 40 PVC as the cross tube, rig up bearings and supports , and rig up a way to fix the tube from rotating when you have the height where you want it. Put on a ratchet to turn the tube to raise/lower, and fix the tube when the height is good.

Sigh... Like my HEPA air filter box with the internal 6" fan to push the air into the tent, setting the tent pressure vs the exhaust filter/fan - I am too lazy or stoned to make it.

 

[exploziv]

I dont think this is about how hard building it or costs or safety more than all.
First of all, since growing is illegal in like half the world, I would not like something wireless in my growroom. I mean they could scan frequencies and find the grows pretty well if we start to allow it. Remember, radio comunications modules need to be identified by mac on product box and probably are notified to some regulatory board as well, same time.
Then its about cost. You wouldn't want something mechanical that is that complex to be cheaply made. And making it the right way is too expensive for the advantages it offers.
I could make one of those light movers, even canopy temp based with parts I already got laying around. That doesn't mean I will do it. I am sure comercial products will come that will do that.. butin my opinion that doesn't really mean there is a need, or that those can be used to get a better efficiency. It just means there is a sucker for everything.
Personally I wouldn't even want automatic moving parts in the growroom. And, even if there's a need, for comercial gardens it would be cheaper if the system would be integrated on the greenhouse, and not on the lights. Like having big platforms to move multiple lights at once. Then you could use any lights and still move them.

 

[dank.frank]

I prefer a fixed lighting position and placing the right sized plants where they belong accordingly. If I'm lighting a ROOM and not a plant canopy, ideally, the PAR is even across the room. Then it doesn't matter if the lights are moved up and down or not. Plants will stretch into the sweet spot and flower accordingly.

I get the automatic up and down thing - my consideration with ANYTHING - that goes above canopy, in my build and more so in tents - is it reduces vertical space for plants to grow. I have to have a carbon filter and a 6" fan by default - it cannot be any lager than those items or take up space those items would otherwise fill.

I think I mentioned this in my thread as well - but I really think of having precise control over lighting intensity via the dimmers as being the new version of raising the lights up and down. It's pretty easy to control stretch in veg simply by increasing the light intensity or reducing it - regardless of where the plants are, in terms of distance from the light.

I personally, am not able to get LED lights within mere inches of the canopy without seeing harm to the plants. Not sure how others manage it, but I can't replicate that in my own garden, which just goes to either show a bias towards my practice of having fixed lighting - or I still don't know what I'm doing with LED and they do - or...they really should be further away from the canopy at the end of the day because these are INTENSE lighting units.

But yes. Yes. Noted. Automatic Height adjustment, with the possibility of further increasing said functionality by integrating it with other suggestions such as the camera to be utilized for other data metric aside from plant health, such as leaf temperature, as a basis for how far the light should be from the canopy. (as I think we established it's too cost prohibitive to have a par meter, which would be the BEST way to ensure you light is the right distance. Great idea all around.

Do you have more? Others? Would like to hear them. We need more valid, well thought out suggestions, to keep numbering and increasing the prize potential for the winner...just saying.

I LOVE the level idea by the way - I'm all about that one and THAT is a simple, easy, cost effective solution to something that also frees up a hand and requires one less tool to have on hand at that point in setup. .....and if you are the type to raise and lower lights, that's going to be useful many multiples of times. Easier than eye-balling it and faster than counting links on a chain. All about that idea. Sad it wasn't mine...



dank.Frank

 

[exploziv]

I LOVE the level idea by the way - I'm all about that one and THAT is a simple, easy, cost effective solution to something that also frees up a hand and requires one less tool to have on hand at that point in setup. .....and if you are the type to raise and lower lights, that's going to be useful many multiples of times. Easier than eye-balling it and faster than counting links on a chain. All about that idea. Sad it wasn't mine...

dank.Frank

Here is a pic of a 1 usd bubble level helping me put the FC3000 light level. Pic from today.

 

[exploziv]

#30 - low power 530nm green bars for working in the garden during lights off cycles.



dank.Frank

I think that was proven to be a myth, and we now have studies on what green light does in plants..

 

[dank.frank]

#35 - a light built on the LM301H Evo or a combination of. This might be ideal for the veg specific light I mentioned earlier.



dank.Frank

 

[dank.frank]

I think that was proven to be a myth, and we now have studies on what green light does in plants..

Not a myth per say. Given enough power, yes, green light can trigger photosynthetic reactions. Keep it below a threshold - very dim - and you are safe.
My take on that. Perhaps I am wrong.



dank.Frank

 

[flylowgethigh]

I prefer a fixed lighting position and placing the right sized plants where they belong accordingly. If I'm lighting a ROOM and not a plant canopy, ideally, the PAR is even across the room. Then it doesn't matter if the lights are moved up and down or not. Plants will stretch into the sweet spot and flower accordingly.

I get the automatic up and down thing - my consideration with ANYTHING - that goes above canopy, in my build and more so in tents - is it reduces vertical space for plants to grow. I have to have a carbon filter and a 6" fan by default - it cannot be any lager than those items or take up space those items would otherwise fill.

I think I mentioned this in my thread as well - but I really think of having precise control over lighting intensity via the dimmers as being the new version of raising the lights up and down. It's pretty easy to control stretch in veg simply by increasing the light intensity or reducing it - regardless of where the plants are, in terms of distance from the light.

I personally, am not able to get LED lights within mere inches of the canopy without seeing harm to the plants. Not sure how others manage it, but I can't replicate that in my own garden, which just goes to either show a bias towards my practice of having fixed lighting - or I still don't know what I'm doing with LED and they do - or...they really should be further away from the canopy at the end of the day because these are INTENSE lighting units.

But yes. Yes. Noted. Automatic Height adjustment, with the possibility of further increasing said functionality by integrating it with other suggestions such as the camera to be utilized for other data metric aside from plant health, such as leaf temperature, as a basis for how far the light should be from the canopy. (as I think we established it's too cost prohibitive to have a par meter, which would be the BEST way to ensure you light is the right distance. Great idea all around.

Do you have more? Others? Would like to hear them. We need more valid, well thought out suggestions, to keep numbering and increasing the prize potential for the winner...just saying.

I LOVE the level idea by the way - I'm all about that one and THAT is a simple, easy, cost effective solution to something that also frees up a hand and requires one less tool to have on hand at that point in setup. .....and if you are the type to raise and lower lights, that's going to be useful many multiples of times. Easier than eye-balling it and faster than counting links on a chain. All about that idea. Sad it wasn't mine...



dank.Frank

Vertical space is critical. The fly-low-get high-light adjuster mechanism add-on needs to be at the very top of the tent inside, up by the bars. Mount the filter along side, out of the way. It only takes an inch or two of height.

I use 8' tents and they are right up to my house ceiling. The top 12" is for the filter and vent system, which ties between tents.

https://www.icmag.com/forum/marijua...help-me-set-up-a-tent?p=12552619#post12552619

The bottom 9" are used by the SWICK bed. Then take away the height of a 10 gallon bag to reach the soil height. 2" thick LED.. that is 32" of overhead-expense height wise, before even a sprout is raised.
.
I am remote mounting the Mars driver so that doesn't take un-necessary vertical room.

Idea #xx: A optional modular 12" tent height extension.

 

[Sampas92]

One more vote for the level idea

 

[Sampas92]

The mesh intakes of the tents could be light proof.

It may be stupid, but for some newb that just want to grow something and buys one Mars combo and grows a photoperiod, is something that will need to handle one way or another but cant avoid it.

That peace of mind would be cool

Peace

 

[Alpenglow]

The mesh intakes of the tents could be light proof.

It may be stupid, but for some newb that just want to grow something and buys one Mars combo and grows a photoperiod, is something that will need to handle one way or another but cant avoid it.

That peace of mind would be cool

Peace

Something like that?

https://www.secretjardin.com/product/df16-light-baffle-with-mesh/