Giveaway New giveaway for new year's new light trend talk

[f-e]

I think I told you before, but I would go with both in one bar, with seperate switches. But pro units might be more in demand than small supplemental lights. No dimming, just goes on when other mars hydro lights in the room are turned on, and lights one or both of spectum or none depending on switches positions. If I was to chose just one, probably be should be done first.
Hope I get a #20 for this..
#20

I got up to #21 pal. You could call it #22 but I don't see how it's different to when you said it's #9

Switching part of a light on&off presents driver problems. Most drivers are concerned with keeping their output constant. Typically constant current. If you turn off say half the LED's, the driver will pump all the power through the remaining one's. In such a position you would need both halves of the light capable of taking the driver all by themselves. Typically we don't find lights with twice the number of LEDs needed. In reality, we get about a third of what we want, over driven to the limits of destruction. That's why I stick to lights that provide spares.

In the lights where you can turn off parts, it's usually done with a separate driver for each. From a production angle, if you are going to buy two drivers, two lots of LEDs, and thus twice the cooling.. you have just made two lights. Sell them as two lights. It's only using very cheap drivers that you might shoehorn another in, but nobody wants lights you can hear on the radio. Drivers have to be an expensive part. One the manufacturer buys in.

It is however possible to go with constant voltage drivers, not constant current. They are not particularly common, and best suited to lower voltage stuff. Thermal problems dog their use.

 

[Sampas92]

I dont have anything to offer, but its cool to learn from others opinions, even more when they know what they are talking about.

now that i think about it, better guides that comes with the products. They are not things hard to assemble by any means, but for example in the lights guide, it could have the average of light power and proximity to the plants. Each readings at canopy would be nice too.

Dunno wich number it is by now? Since f-e is at 22 maybe im 23/24??

Peace

 

[a real gorilla]

# whatever.

What about a vertical barebulb light so can grow big trees? Thats my idea.

 

[Hammerhead]

Dimming would be much better than cutting power to Some led's
Mars Hydro Led When you gonna do a giveaway for your best light, FC-8000..I watched the review, nice light.

 

[TheDarkStorm]

Right some ideas, I think a big issue with some of the lights being made in the last two years is the heat sinks seem to be shrinking....wich for longevity of output and led life is not really ideal....folding bar style seems to be ideal but I think it would be so much better if the heatsinks used were of a similar type to the sp series lights wich had excellent heatsinks....also with these for example 4-9 bar style lights it would be good if the angles of each bar could be adjusted to achieve maximum penetration an spread that one can tailor to their individual space..as sometimes the ppfd is weaker in the corners or outside perimeter so being able to adjust the angle of each bar should help with this..it might even be better if the very end bar on each side along with the leds on the outside edge were running at a slightly higher wattage/power..another thing id like to see mars have is the addition of real uv-a - uv-b and extra far red and ir that can each be controlled via a individual uv dial and far red/ir dial..so one can tailor the use and intensity of these separately at certain times to further enhance the quality an steering of the crop....so a three dial system were you can control/dim the normal wide white spectrum that Is currently available on the mars lights an the other two dials to dim an control real uva and b an far red/ir.....sometimes its awkward to get to the controls of the light when hung up an with plants under it so a remote control should come as standard.....and finaly one last thing I think is very important...I would love to have a led that is able to hold its ppfd from the top of canopy level at least 2 ft into the canopy....so if for example at 2ft away from the led in a 4x4 tent ppfd shows to average about 800-900..I would want something that then at least 4ft away from the led is able to hold as close to the 800 as possible...this way I know im able to get solid 2ft of colas with little loss of ppfd top to bottom...maybe this could be achieved with some leds having lenses over them or maybe four smaller cobs with lenses on each individual bar..the adjustable individual bar angles an the slightly higher powered leds on the end bars an around the outside edge of the whole led light...i know some other guys were achieving something similar by using specialised lenses that were showing lower ppfd numbers directly under the light but higher ppfd further away at certain angles so it is possible to do.....a light with all these functions in would be amazing.

not sure of the number.....25 or 26 ????

 

[dank.frank]

^^If one single idea above, then that was #24. I'll start with #25 then.

#25 - An integrated camera / software in the light bar itself that runs on an algorithm that detects pest presence or nutrient deficiency and reports that to the central control panel / data logger.



dank.Frank

 

[exploziv]

Sorry for missing the number. I am ready to help you guys with renumbering if there is a need to be able to keep the count. As about #20, if thats's a double then I will say ofc the original guy should keep it.

 

[dank.frank]

#26 - IP-65 /66 ratings for all fixtures and IP-67 ratings for digital control panels and drivers



dank.Frank

 

[dank.frank]

#27 - A simple and effective daisy chain-able clone LED for 4ft rack systems. (think along the line of a certain 18watt, 2pack, 9,000k)



dank.Frank

 

[dank.frank]

#28 - An LED bar light designed from the ground up to be the best VEG light. (higher moisture rating, refined spectrum - more blue/green, with far red - designed to promote compact growth, light depth penetration and aid in developing more even canopies)



dank.Frank

 

[dank.frank]

#29 - A PORTABLE low power demand light-weight LED solution that can be used to keep bulk rooted clones healthier while in transport from vendor event to vendor event. Powered/charged by car battery would be ideal and operated on a rechargeable battery bank.



dank.Frank

 

[dank.frank]

#30 - low power 530nm green bars for working in the garden during lights off cycles.



dank.Frank

 

[dank.frank]

#31 - 'UniStrut' mounting compatibility



dank.Frank

 

[dank.frank]

#32 - I'm sure you have your reasons, but I REALLY like the pre-release 5 spectrum variant of the SP3000. I'd love to see more with that 5 spectrum integration. I know it's a efficiency thing with the diodes...but I think in terms of photomorphogenesis - there is something about that 5 spectrum.



dank.Frank

 

[Mars Hydro Led]

IR should stay on the normal bars and run the whole light cycle with them. The only thing i use UV is to trigger autumn faster at the end of a grow when i start to reduce the hours per day after halftime of the flowering cycle before i turn them off the last 2 weeks. UV LED´s are a tricky thing where you should know your strain and your light exactly.
Im more into manipulating plants with the light than getting more % of whatever out of them.
Far Red penetrates the leaves more in my opinion and is the better way to manipulate plants than UV LED´s.
I use far-red more in veg than later in the grow. Keeping the panel as low as possible and getting the lower branches up to the light through the extra far-red.
If they seem to get stressed from the light i reduce the light cycle.

How long will your UV bars run before they lose output? Usually, UV-B Led´s are expensive lil suckers and dont last long, any changes i missed on that?

Our UV and IR bar didn't on sale yet. but we have been planning to produce it in last few month. They will be on sale before July if everything goes well.

 

[Mars Hydro Led]

I got up to #21 pal. You could call it #22 but I don't see how it's different to when you said it's #9

Switching part of a light on&off presents driver problems. Most drivers are concerned with keeping their output constant. Typically constant current. If you turn off say half the LED's, the driver will pump all the power through the remaining one's. In such a position you would need both halves of the light capable of taking the driver all by themselves. Typically we don't find lights with twice the number of LEDs needed. In reality, we get about a third of what we want, over driven to the limits of destruction. That's why I stick to lights that provide spares.

In the lights where you can turn off parts, it's usually done with a separate driver for each. From a production angle, if you are going to buy two drivers, two lots of LEDs, and thus twice the cooling.. you have just made two lights. Sell them as two lights. It's only using very cheap drivers that you might shoehorn another in, but nobody wants lights you can hear on the radio. Drivers have to be an expensive part. One the manufacturer buys in.

It is however possible to go with constant voltage drivers, not constant current. They are not particularly common, and best suited to lower voltage stuff. Thermal problems dog their use.

On our bar design light. we used 30% more chips than most of other suppliers. There will be no over driver issue and the lifespan could be extended a lot.

 

[Mars Hydro Led]

# whatever.

What about a vertical barebulb light so can grow big trees? Thats my idea.

that sounds cool. our FCE lights also can be used for vertical facility like this.

The light in picture is our FCE-6500: https://www.mars-hydro.com/fc-e6500-commercial-led-grow-light/

 

[Mars Hydro Led]

Dimming would be much better than cutting power to Some led's
Mars Hydro Led When you gonna do a giveaway for your best light, FC-8000..I watched the review, nice light.

There might be one in this year. Stay tuned.

 

[Mars Hydro Led]

^^If one single idea above, then that was #24. I'll start with #25 then.

#25 - An integrated camera / software in the light bar itself that runs on an algorithm that detects pest presence or nutrient deficiency and reports that to the central control panel / data logger.



dank.Frank

This might be come ture in future.

 

[exploziv]

#33 - A cheap bubble level indicator to show when unit is hanging right, integrated into the light or provided as a stick-on. Not really something you can't do without but it would be more easy to arrage a bunch of panels over a canopy, to sit at same, equal level.