Giveaway New giveaway for new year's new light trend talk
- Thread starter Mars Hydro Led
- Start date
Alpenglow
Well-known member
#8 - a controller and/or app extension to control the lamps as an option
- addable to one lamp in a connected cluster to control all the connected lamps
- maybe i want to start with 50% power for an hour, then go up to 100% for 9 and back to 50% for the rest 2 hours for example
- timing the extension kits when to start
- humidity and temperature sensors
- maybe 2 slots to add another temp or humidity sensor between the plants
Alpenglow
Well-known member
Rather than every panel having far red suplement with seperate driver, a better solution to that is having supplemental light bars that can be either hang individually or clipped on the varios ligh bar type lights. Doesn't need to be dimable, just switches for 1 or more spectrums those light bars might have.
Evolving onto my no. 5, for comercial market you could make intermediary units for suplementing various spectrums, that can be added on same piggyback system and powered on from nearby lamps.
#9
Evolving onto my no. 5, for comercial market you could make intermediary units for suplementing various spectrums, that can be added on same piggyback system and powered on from nearby lamps.
#9
#11
You can buy IEC power cable splitters, that go from 1 female, to 2 males. These should be optional extras. The female should have a 100mm lead to one male, and 1200mm lead to the other. The idea, is daisy-chaining lights using leads. Just as the dimming is daisy chained.
The alternative is a power outlet on each light. However, people will melt them. Any use of an IEC over 3 amps will melt them as they come loose or corrode. I have been doing this too long to give out kit like that. However, if they melt a separate lead, it's just a lead. They can swap that. They have no need to lie about how many lights they strung together for a warranty claim.
Every little helps. Here, it's just showing people how to do it.
#11
You can buy IEC power cable splitters, that go from 1 female, to 2 males. These should be optional extras. The female should have a 100mm lead to one male, and 1200mm lead to the other. The idea, is daisy-chaining lights using leads. Just as the dimming is daisy chained.
The alternative is a power outlet on each light. However, people will melt them. Any use of an IEC over 3 amps will melt them as they come loose or corrode. I have been doing this too long to give out kit like that. However, if they melt a separate lead, it's just a lead. They can swap that. They have no need to lie about how many lights they strung together for a warranty claim.
Every little helps. Here, it's just showing people how to do it.
#11
Attachments
#14
I look at the Fins on the bars, and see most use 3. A longer center one, and two shorter ones on the outside. The bar is horizontal. It's not an IR emitter, it's not even the right colour to try. It looses heat through convection. Now look at it again. How do any convection currents rise through that finned assembly. There is no path through them. The outer fins need perforating with something like a 5mm hole, every 50mm.
#14
I look at the Fins on the bars, and see most use 3. A longer center one, and two shorter ones on the outside. The bar is horizontal. It's not an IR emitter, it's not even the right colour to try. It looses heat through convection. Now look at it again. How do any convection currents rise through that finned assembly. There is no path through them. The outer fins need perforating with something like a 5mm hole, every 50mm.
#14
#16
The actual boards used need standardising, like the 288 boards are. I only use the 288 boards as I know I can always get another. These bars need to pick a standard and stick to it. Then people can swap the boards if they fail, or after 4-5 years of service when new option appear, and aging boards are loosing output. It's the after-sales reasurance that many people want. Knowing they can buy spares, after the first 12 months. People laying out a months wages on a light, really want to know it's future is bright.
#16
The actual boards used need standardising, like the 288 boards are. I only use the 288 boards as I know I can always get another. These bars need to pick a standard and stick to it. Then people can swap the boards if they fail, or after 4-5 years of service when new option appear, and aging boards are loosing output. It's the after-sales reasurance that many people want. Knowing they can buy spares, after the first 12 months. People laying out a months wages on a light, really want to know it's future is bright.
#16
#17
I'm not sure about lights physically moving themselves up. However, the light level measured looking down from a light is effected by the canopy distance, due to reflections. You could monitor reflected light and dim the light as the plants moved towards it. It's pretty trick PWM tech, but once you are moved into that field, things like the temperature monitoring become more viable.
#17
I'm not sure about lights physically moving themselves up. However, the light level measured looking down from a light is effected by the canopy distance, due to reflections. You could monitor reflected light and dim the light as the plants moved towards it. It's pretty trick PWM tech, but once you are moved into that field, things like the temperature monitoring become more viable.
#17
#19 Now it might seem crazy to use an actual umbrella, but the air cooled options need looking at.
Gonna have to edit this forever to get a few album pics in.
No.. I'm failing. I can't add two album pics
I have boxed in a number of LED lights. All of them in fact. To take air from around the heatsink, straight out the grow area. These two above, blew into that box with two holes, which was linked to me extraction. A bit messy, but I got all the heat out.
My QB's have boxes over them, with fans that stream the air towards my carbon.
Heat removal could also be in the form of water cooling. If I had racks and racks of cuttings, I would want my bars to be hollow for plumbing. Just led strips, stuck to tubes that had been rolled flat along that one side for attachment. That water would be both cooling and perhaps heating sometimes. In a big installation
#19
Gonna have to edit this forever to get a few album pics in.
No.. I'm failing. I can't add two album pics
I have boxed in a number of LED lights. All of them in fact. To take air from around the heatsink, straight out the grow area. These two above, blew into that box with two holes, which was linked to me extraction. A bit messy, but I got all the heat out.
My QB's have boxes over them, with fans that stream the air towards my carbon.
Heat removal could also be in the form of water cooling. If I had racks and racks of cuttings, I would want my bars to be hollow for plumbing. Just led strips, stuck to tubes that had been rolled flat along that one side for attachment. That water would be both cooling and perhaps heating sometimes. In a big installation
#19
Attachments
Sounds good. it might be accessible in in future.
All it would need is a motor at the front end, that rotates the shaft left or right. A switch on the motor, which is at the front of the tent, would make manual adjustment easy. The control can be a added feature. Attach the motor to the top horizontal tent frame bar.
Reaching over plants that have stretched up into the light, to reach the ratchet so the light can be raised up, is just a hassle. The light has to be raised as the plant gets taller. I don't know how short people manage.
This "fly low, get high" device is something the market needs.
What I would like to see is kind of like Legos. Add a bar. So if my area is 4x8 I would order 8 bars. If 4x6 I would order 6 bars. Just plug in another bar to expand my area. Adjustability and add-on ability are things I would be most interested in.
#20
E40 based 150 & 250 watt retrofits. Like the huge CFL lamps. If you have no real experience of E40 you may not know that bulb orientation of that seemingly tubular lamp, is actually a thing. So a lamp that screws in, does have a predetermined top and bottom. It doesn't have to be a corn lamp.
Moving along with the idea, you could make a larger lamp for cool tubes. Fit a thermal device to half the output when the fan busts. Saving the lamp from destruction.
It's all about the retrofit, enabling HID growers to just screw in an LED to see for themselves. Long before a total refit, as LED's rarely are retrofit.
Edit: That's 10 ideas
#20
E40 based 150 & 250 watt retrofits. Like the huge CFL lamps. If you have no real experience of E40 you may not know that bulb orientation of that seemingly tubular lamp, is actually a thing. So a lamp that screws in, does have a predetermined top and bottom. It doesn't have to be a corn lamp.
Moving along with the idea, you could make a larger lamp for cool tubes. Fit a thermal device to half the output when the fan busts. Saving the lamp from destruction.
It's all about the retrofit, enabling HID growers to just screw in an LED to see for themselves. Long before a total refit, as LED's rarely are retrofit.
Edit: That's 10 ideas
#20
You are a little late on that suggestion. Watch for a light review post from me soon Mr. Alpenglow, to see if Mars has stepped up to the first big request. The light industry has adopted a light control standard, and Mars says they have updated their lights so they can be controlled the same way. There are controllers that have temp and humidity already out there.
#21
Do you still sell the 100w cobs? Perhaps a folding frame that places them apart and offers a single hanging point would help HID growers come over. Something that can go on a light rail. Having them cobs is quite flexible, and packs fairly well. No wiring, just plugs.
Should aid connection.
#21
Do you still sell the 100w cobs? Perhaps a folding frame that places them apart and offers a single hanging point would help HID growers come over. Something that can go on a light rail. Having them cobs is quite flexible, and packs fairly well. No wiring, just plugs.
Should aid connection.
#21
