You need to free up some of that exchangeable magnesium in the coot mix and then you're pretty much going to be in the money on that one.
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MotherLode Gardens 2015
- Thread starter Shcrews
- Start date
For what it's worth, you are extremely stubborn Schrews. All I've done is try to help you and what I'm telling you to do is guaranteed gold for YOU my man...To grow more, better, easier...But its like you fight yourself.
Maybe you'll get over it one day. I hope so.
We all fight our selves in our own ways. I think there's a cliche , My own worst enemy...
Maybe you'll get over it one day. I hope so.
We all fight our selves in our own ways. I think there's a cliche , My own worst enemy...
yea buddy you got some of the best open sun growers in norcal schooling you for free! everybody wants to see you crush it man dont settle for for the bare minimum in an environment and lifestyle that could be dead in a few years once the corporate fucks take over! I've seen some of the most ghetto ground cover greenhouses and they still work awesome. shit just build a 2x4 frame and tape home depot paint 3m film to it that only costs like 100 bucks! or buy a few rebars and PVC and hammer in a ghetto hooptie. I'm telling ya man GH starts make all the different i can't tell you how angry i am at myself for wasting 2011 and 2012 seasons on using stressed out starts! i had so much of my grow rights stolen from me this month that it makes me even angrier that i didn't take my earlier seasons more seriously to maximize production. some of the "its ok they'll be fine" shit i pulled really costed me tens of thousands of dollars in reduced revenue that will be needed when the slaughter begins in 2017.
damn its 60s right now near you? its low 50s tonight here, weird how its cooler up here i thought you were at way higher elevation.
haha blvck triangle i almost can't even be mad you. i mean we can't be mad at you. i mean its a team effort on every decision i make since realistically according to the lorax my half lorax makes me debate every decision. it was my bad half lorax that talked bad to you last night.
damn its 60s right now near you? its low 50s tonight here, weird how its cooler up here i thought you were at way higher elevation.
haha blvck triangle i almost can't even be mad you. i mean we can't be mad at you. i mean its a team effort on every decision i make since realistically according to the lorax my half lorax makes me debate every decision. it was my bad half lorax that talked bad to you last night.
this season has barely started , im not gonna call it a waste yet. i have plenty of healthy starts now, the trick is keeping them that way until october.
i spoke too soon haha, it's 54 outside right now. elevation here is about 3000 ft but you are farther north i think
i already have some bags of gypsum, but will have to look for iron sulfate... any idea how much of those to mix in??
how do i do that? And its weird that i dont need to amend with anything because that coots mix was in a 400gal pot with a 8lb plant so i figured it would be more depleted.
thanks for the help, this recycled soil thing is confusing
jdkronyk101
Active member
so it looks to me like boron iron sulfur and potassium on one, and boron iron and magnesium on the other as per the reports stated deficiency's. really this is mainly a micro thing, the only macro is potassium. so rather than try to put all kinds of big stuff in there, i would suggest adding azomite for the micros, and follow what byf is suggesting for the cal, maganese, and potassium.
"A to Z of minerals including trace elements". An estimated 30 million years ago, a volcanic eruption filled a nearby seabed. The unique combination of seawater, fed by rivers rich in minerals and rare earth elements present in the volcanic ash created the composition known as the Azomite mineral deposit."--from the product website
also consider the Law of the Minimum---
The "father of fertilizer", Justus von Liebig, developed the "Law of the Minimum" which is important in understanding what AZOMITE® does. The Law states that plant growth is determined by the scarcest "limiting" nutrient; if even one of the many required nutrients is deficient, the plant will not grow and produce at its optimum. Conventional fertilizer programs focus on the macronutrients like Nitrogen (N), Phosphorus (P) and Potassium (K). However, if one of the many essential trace elements is deficient in the soil, the plant will not perform at its optimum, affecting yield and immune function. ---- from their website as well
It'd be easier to do the fine tuning by foliar almost if you wanted to commit
MountZionCollec
Active member
If u want to continue to be a ganja farmer post legalization u are going to have to use drip irrigation. Their not to hard too assemble or design, especially if ur water source is at the top of the hill. It's going to take me about 12 hours to put mine together for 99 pots. U will surely thank the ganja gods the first day u water by flipping a switch.
You don't think that he'll get more K than he needs before he gets as much S as he needs ?
Well I guess when you throw the curve ball that you're doing the math at 50% it makes more sense ... Blueberry would tell you , you need to explain all the factors so 1+1 doesn't equal 3
With gypsum you don't adress K.
I am not use to looking at sulfate...logan reports S. So I would have to bust out a periodic table. But pH is barely high so my guess is not that much S is needed.
Sulfrous acid could be used h2so3 if needed
When dealing with synergistic effects sometimes 1 +1 can equal 3
I am not use to looking at sulfate...logan reports S. So I would have to bust out a periodic table. But pH is barely high so my guess is not that much S is needed.
Sulfrous acid could be used h2so3 if needed
When dealing with synergistic effects sometimes 1 +1 can equal 3
I know I'd much rather be paid, say, 1k cash today than the promise of 1.2-1.4k in the future, especially from someone without a solid track record, and ESPECIALLY if not getting paid ASAP will leave me broke. There's something to be said about the present value of cash, having it available right now right here to spend so I can earn more cash with it.
Thanks for the math. Let me see if I'm following it.
1acre=43560 sf/ 27 cf =1613 yard. 480 k ÷ 1613 yard =.3 lb yard. Since you're doing half strength at 240 you divide both side of equation to get 240÷ 807 = .3lb. Why we doing the extra step here?
The product has 50%k...so .3÷.5 = .6 lb per yard. Since there are 4 yards in 800 gallon pot we multiply .6 by 4 = 2.4 lbs per pot.
Let me know if I am logically following you. Thanks. Again noob here.
BFY...keep coming with your knowledge and advice. I am learning a great deal from you. I implement about 85 percent of advice i get form you and others on here. Wish i implemented all your ideas but can't bc of budget constraints. I understand the challenges schrews face as a one man crew.
The plants are loving it all these things...Vigorous and green.
jdkronyk101
Active member
agreed
you dont need to pay so much attention to the breakdown that way either. 1lb. of this 20 pounds of that per acre/per yard... just a solid foliar campaign would handle it. compost teas n foliar cant really be beat.
i went with a company out of new mexico...living stone organics.. manufactured and distributed by terra biotics inc. they have a good cal25 replacement and a decent line...they are a tea/foliar/drench application so it works good for me. ive been using it indoors and i like the results..
my thoughts with the azomite were simply to keep it easy. alot of folks will give the breakdown and ad said amount of boron, or magnese, ect... but in my opinion its easy to fuck up that way adding too much or too little. azomite doesnt take much, covers all bases, and if the directions are followed wont hurt anything.
ps id do the foliar anyways...regardless
thanks for the math, but i'm still kind of confused. so then whats the final verdict on what i should mix into the vermifire? K2so4 and gypsum? and how much gypsum, or is there other things too? what about the iron, or the boron
you ppl are trying to confuse me right... The test results show the Coots has lower N than the vermifire, is that ok? The way i am understanding you guys is i dont need to amend the coots with anything? just foliar?
how should i address iron and boron in the coots and the vermifire?
thanks guys, i'm trying to figure this stuff out soon so i can mix soil and start planting this weekend
