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LED and BUD QUALITY

PadawanWarrior

Well-known member
Having fire prevention for your indoor garden is a must no matter what lights you use.. I have Auto extinguishers in every room and in the tents. They're cheap and will save your house. To be honest the China LED has grown better plants than the $800 HLG Diablo.

20$


I use a big one of these in the main flower room. These are pricy
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Those Fire Balls are cool. I wonder if they've ever went off accidentally. I'm seriously going to consider those.
 

zachrockbadenof

Well-known member
Veteran
Having fire prevention for your indoor garden is a must no matter what lights you use.. I have Auto extinguishers in every room and in the tents. They're cheap and will save your house. To be honest the China LED has grown better plants than the $800 HLG Diablo.

20$


I use a big one of these in the main flower room. These are pricy
View attachment 19074267
where did u ge
Having fire prevention for your indoor garden is a must no matter what lights you use.. I have Auto extinguishers in every room and in the tents. They're cheap and will save your house. To be honest the China LED has grown better plants than the $800 HLG Diablo.

20$


I use a big one of these in the main flower room. These are pricy
View attachment 19074267
where did u get these ?? can't find em on amazon- thanks
 

Hiddenjems

Well-known member
Having fire prevention for your indoor garden is a must no matter what lights you use.. I have Auto extinguishers in every room and in the tents. They're cheap and will save your house. To be honest the China LED has grown better plants than the $800 HLG Diablo.

20$


I use a big one of these in the main flower room. These are pricy
View attachment 19074267
I have halon setup in mine. Suffocates the fire and it’s really clean. We use it in race cars and helicopters too.
 

mm4n

Well-known member
where did u get these ?? can't find em on amazon- thanks
I am considering a similar solution but with one extinguisher for the entire room.
In Spain I found this one: the 1 kg model should activate automatically at 68ºC (154ºF), while the 3 kg model activates at 79ºC (174ºF).
 

Hammerhead

Disabled Farmer
ICMag Donor
Veteran
I've had some scares with light related fires. When the new CMH DE bulbs came out I had 1 explode causing a fire on the pond liner I had on the floor. That was 15 years ago. Since then Fire prevention has been part of my indoor garden. It's risky not to include it. You can do a 10 x 10 room well for 100$.
 

phunkeeboodah

Active member
everything WAS good until the fall started (dark panels with light veins). now the inverse led colour scheme strikes again
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Rocket Soul

Well-known member
everything WAS good until the fall started (dark panels with light veins). now the inverse led colour scheme strikes again



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Why are you posting this here? Friendly question cause you dont give much info or ask any questions about it, im sure wed all like to help.
- How to fix this plant?
- How to avoid this the next time?
- comment on leds in general?
- Help with what caused this?

To me this looks completely picture perfect like led lightburn which happens when youre giving too much led light without covering the basic grow conditions (temps/rh/vpd, EC/ph and nutes composition). Look how its worse on top growth, that indicates problem is worse the higher light intensity. Or possibly that the last bit of growth happened in too low nute strength.
Fixing this grow is going to be hard, they usually stay like this once you get here. But maybe you could stop.it from getting worse.
The general basic advice would be increasing temps but its hard to make any promises since the plant looks like its transpiring well (erect leaves). Also not a single petiole showing; theyre very indicative of the plant getting too much light.
Maybe you could provide some more info on the grow or ask for what you need in a more straight forward way. Medium, climate, light, ec ph if hydro-type nutes.
 

phunkeeboodah

Active member
Why are you posting this here? Friendly question cause you dont give much info or ask any questions about it, im sure wed all like to help.
- How to fix this plant?
- How to avoid this the next time?
- comment on leds in general?
- Help with what caused this?

To me this looks completely picture perfect like led lightburn which happens when youre giving too much led light without covering the basic grow conditions (temps/rh/vpd, EC/ph and nutes composition). Look how its worse on top growth, that indicates problem is worse the higher light intensity. Or possibly that the last bit of growth happened in too low nute strength.
Fixing this grow is going to be hard, they usually stay like this once you get here. But maybe you could stop.it from getting worse.
The general basic advice would be increasing temps but its hard to make any promises since the plant looks like its transpiring well (erect leaves). Also not a single petiole showing; theyre very indicative of the plant getting too much light.
Maybe you could provide some more info on the grow or ask for what you need in a more straight forward way. Medium, climate, light, ec ph if hydro-type nutes.
this happens as soon as fall comes, then i switch to hid and everything is fine. it's still too hot in the grow space for me to use the hid so will probably finish the crop with led. the terps on that tall plant are nice so will hopefully finish ok

in the summer the plants were perfect under the led though, but i grow in a closet and am not about to attempt to science these plants back to perfection, considering there is no clear and universally accepted way to do that other than turn the clock back to summertime (aka plug in the hid)

its a seed run though and there are 8 plants in the tub and i managed to clone all 8. waiting for the smoke test to choose a keeper
 

Rocket Soul

Well-known member
this happens as soon as fall comes, then i switch to hid and everything is fine. it's still too hot in the grow space for me to use the hid so will probably finish the crop with led. the terps on that tall plant are nice so will hopefully finish ok

in the summer the plants were perfect under the led though, but i grow in a closet and am not about to attempt to science these plants back to perfection, considering there is no clear and universally accepted way to do that other than turn the clock back to summertime (aka plug in the hid)

its a seed run though and there are 8 plants in the tub and i managed to clone all 8. waiting for the smoke test to choose a keeper
Its a heat thing which youve already figured out. Leds dont have infra red which means less drinking (less nutes absorbed) and slower metabolism (plant cant keep up with the light): both things tend to look the same. You can try to figure this out by VPD and adjusting nute strength upwards (but control the run off EC) during cold season; if the plant drinks 20% slower youd need to adjust nutes 20% upwards. But the best thing would be raising temps a bit, try for +80F once you hit full intensity.
Some tricks: extracting drom the bottom: keeps the heat inside. Or add a little incandescent light to get the IR back. Dont go over board, higher wattage bulbs can stretch out your plants. Or upping the PH to a range were mag is better absorbed.
 

Scfarmer

New member
As someone who used HPS include CMH for 10+ years then last year switched to LED. I'm going to tell you now that good LEDs piss all over HPS. ( Single ended) Only slight downside is lack of IR which can cause nute issues if you don't adjust your feed a little. Ive had calcium issues in my 800w LED tent.

However the absolute best set up is a central CMH bare bulb reflector with a square LED fitting around it angled back at the center from the edge of your space.
I have 315w agro lamp + 400w of led in my 1.2 and its an absolute beast . What ever plants go in that tent finish faster, taste and smell better and have higher Levels of frosting compared to any other configuration I have tried.
Here is a pic of Mimosa at 4/5 weeks from switch
 

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Scfarmer

New member
As someone who used HPS include CMH for 10+ years then last year switched to LED. I'm going to tell you now that good LEDs piss all over HPS. ( Single ended) Only slight downside is lack of IR which can cause nute issues if you don't adjust your feed a little. Ive had calcium issues in my 800w LED tent.

However the absolute best set up is a central CMH bare bulb reflector with a square LED fitting around it angled back at the center from the edge of your space.
I have 315w agro lamp + 400w of led in my 1.2 and its an absolute beast . What ever plants go in that tent finish faster, taste and smell better and have higher Levels of frosting compared to any other configuration I have tried.
Here is a pic of Mimosa at 4/5 weeks from switch
This is what my setup looks like
 

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Scfarmer

New member
I am considering a similar solution but with one extinguisher for the entire room.
In Spain I found this one: the 1 kg model should activate automatically at 68ºC (154ºF), while the 3 kg model activates at 79ºC (174ºF).
As someone who has had a full blown fire in their grow and only through my own determination and stupidity did I avoid having to call the fire brigade. Don't fade these things.
The fire was caused by a concentrate joint in a very low humidity environment+ me being so stoned I didn't see it . Hours later I had an inferno.
 

Scfarmer

New member
by adjusting the feed you mean just extra calmag ?
What rocket soul said above. I had these very issues after the switch and following his advice it sorted my girls out.
Higher calmag, slightly higher PH. Getting run off PH and EC in check with what the plant was actually using.
Deficiency can be tricky as symptoms may be because of lock out due to other factors vrs not enough supplementation
 

ReprobateMind

Active member
Is this light burn from LED? It's only the tops of the plant. Besides lowering the intensity with the dimmer, what can I do to stop it? Add epsom salt at 1 teapoon per gallon of water to the next feeding? The plants are in an organic soilless mix.
 

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Ca++

Well-known member
I feel compelled to join in
barr (1).jpg
600, because 600. That and my 4s oddly refused to work with this shade and cable routing. A few 4s, I even swapped the igniters in. A rare moment of wtf.
120w QBs should be recognisable. 33% bigger than a 1.2 though, it's a 1.4

I don't seem to move the lights up and down now. Much of that work, is covered by the dimmer. The 6 has been moved as high as it will go, and the QBs position is relatable. Or they cast shadows.
 

Rocket Soul

Well-known member
I feel compelled to join in
View attachment 19077477
600, because 600. That and my 4s oddly refused to work with this shade and cable routing. A few 4s, I even swapped the igniters in. A rare moment of wtf.
120w QBs should be recognisable. 33% bigger than a 1.2 though, it's a 1.4

I don't seem to move the lights up and down now. Much of that work, is covered by the dimmer. The 6 has been moved as high as it will go, and the QBs position is relatable. Or they cast shadows.
Really good to finally see your setup, Ca, dope shit :)
But what do you mean '4s'?
 
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