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LED and BUD QUALITY

greyfader

Well-known member
What a great reply. “you’re wrong” super scientific and well detailed hah hah

Lower canopy leaves are cupping down wards and you can clearly see tip burn already at this point!

You havn’t burned the tops so badly at this point yet



Is that hydro i asked



Can you quantify the N level?

I’m telling you it’s too much. You replying me it’s “very low” doesn’t inform me very much now does it.

Starving ! yea right. Obviously that plant wasn’t starved enough, it’s way too dark green still. You don’t know what the fuck you’re supposed to even do.

Starving that dark green fucker till it’s white-yellow wouldn’t save you any cause you have already given it too much N



Do you know the npk ratios? tell me if you do. maybe i’m able to give you few tips cause you surely need some hah hah

How does your npk profile change as the blooming weeks go by? How about the EC levels



Your replies aren’t very scientific.I’m sure you know that. at this level.weak.

I bet you’d feel greater pride if it was other people who would call your professional and good scientist instead of you telling yourself that. ha hah



How do like the reaming so far? I told you your ego couldn’t handle it,but you went for that keyboard and now you have opened the pandora’s box. It’s all down hill from now on, scientist


Yes. you keep that paper hidden. I want you to write the replies yourself and not to use someone else’s research
let's see your plants!

by the way, the method is recirculating soilless and i've been using it for 15 years. with 13 years of recirculating hydro before that.

i'm also known as delta9nxs and this is a good thread for you to see my work.


take a good, hard look at the hundreds of photos of my plants in this thread. unlike you i have documented my work and have pics to prove it. let's see yours!
 

Crooked8

Well-known member
Mentor
ICMag Donor
Veteran
What a pussy reply.

tell me the npk ratios you use and the EC levels. come on don’t be chicken shit

Are you too embarrassed now to tell me those, cause i’m not telling you how great you are like the clown gang over here.

But you’re a commercial grower, did i get it right. You would never admit on public that your product could be better. right? Are you’re one of those guys who would sell anything to paying customers and tell them you’re the best regardless of what some nobody told you on icmag?

You are not looking to improve the bud quality? Are you already growing the best bud you can? that dark green shit is not it.

I could provide useful times. Is your ego telling you to end this conversation now? If so then don’t ever tlk to me again, and don’t talk about the shit i have writen in my posts, you little chicken shit pussy.



Did you test a leaf or flower in that lab i asked?

I’m not a lab testing type as you know so maybe you can tell me if leaf tissue and flower tissue give different readings for nutrients

I find it so strange how people bring a leaf into a lab for testing and not flower tissue when they grow cannabis for the flowers. but i don’t know if it matters. Does it?




No down ward curl on a plant that overly dark green is over feeding N. The upward tacoing is because the leds are drying the tops out. You just telling excuses to yourself pal
I wish you the best, i do not want your advice. Im sorry I even replied. I truly wish you the best and will continue to monitor my tissue analysis. And fwiw, i am not commercial. This is 6 benches i run that are my own. Best of luck to you.
 

Crooked8

Well-known member
Mentor
ICMag Donor
Veteran
aaaaawh you lack stamina you little wimp
Don't let the door hit you on your way out!

Don't start talking shit if you're gonna bail out before the other guy is done talking to you, little boy.
Do not start talking shit if you can't handle it. Just don't
Learn some fucking manners
Sorry to have gotten you worked up. I will try my best to emulate your manners and mentorship. Everyone needs to learn from you. Take care.

Also, if you can show me a lab that tissue tests wet flower id love a link to that.
 
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greyfader

Well-known member
aaaaawh you lack stamina you little wimp
Don't let the door hit you on your way out!

Don't start talking shit if you're gonna bail out before the other guy is done talking to you, little boy.
Do not start talking shit if you can't handle it. Just don't
Learn some fucking manners
so, here's the deal. you are now officially trolling this thread. and if you don't stop and let the people here proceed with their discussions without your trolling i will do my best to bring admin in here and straighten it out.

it seems that every few months we get a troll like you and we have to deal with them the hard way. we have had several banned from the site for less than what you are doing.

please just leave the thread and let those who want to pursue this do it in peace. you are not contributing to anything and present a constant obstacle to everyone else participating in this discussion.

this is a private site with forums and rules that are designed to allow folks to pursue topics without troll interference.

you have been warned.
 

Ca++

Well-known member
Jesus Sandra. You asked him about his past, he linked you to all the pics and text you could need, then you said you wouldn't look at it. You are just wasting the guys time. A few people have been decent with you, and you even insulted them for that.

One problem we all share, is feeding the troll. It's something we could all fix, with mutual agreement, that there is nothing worth any value to recover here. Every trace of chat with this girl, is meaningless pages. We need to stop.

I'm ending it here, along with crooked8, who came to his senses before me.
 

CharlesU Farley

Well-known member
please just leave the thread and let those who want to pursue this do it in peace. you are not contributing to anything and present a constant obstacle to everyone else participating in this discussion.
This poster was the exact same way on the Mr Nice forum. :mad: Pretty sure mu shitcanned 'em. (y)

There's nothing anyone can do or say that will change this person. I don't mind reading posts from jerks and assholes _if_ they are at least moderately intelligent and know what they are talking about, which _isn't_ the case here.

Just look at that thing he calls a cannabis plant???? And to think he was _proud_ to put that pic up. :eek:

So for me, it's into the _Ignore_ bin for Troll Boy, wtmkf. 🚷
 
Well, hopefully the troll is back under his respective bridge. Got a headache reading all that misinformation. But back to the question at hand. Quality LED's will, IMHO, grow weed that is at least as good as HPS. Never seen a lot of difference in quality or quantity between the two. They both take some work to get dialed in. Now to take you on a little artificial light journey. In 1975 I was in College, Humbodlt State University. Best weed to be found anywhere at that time, but it was all grown outdoors, natural light. Almost none was grown under artificial light, mostly because at that time grow lights were in their infancy. My first dorm room grow was under incandescent "growlights", that were no more than a 150 watt spotlight bulb with a light blue coating inside the glass. Grew terrible leggy plants, and always had heat issues. Soon after, HPS became available, but at that time they were very expensive, and the bulb spectrum choices were limited, as most HPS was used for outdoor commercial lighting, the bulbs were high wattage, but it certainly grew better weed than incandescent, but because of the size of the lights/ballasts you needed a big grow space. Some people used neon type bulbs, but again, the choices for spectrum were very limited, the bulbs were really expensive, hard to find, (no internet, no Amazon back then) and they only lasted about 6-9 months before they needed to be replaced. For many years HPS was the gold standard, but then LED's came on the scene, the early "burples" vegged plants great, but were lacking for flowering, then came the veg/bloom models with a setting for veg and one for flower, they were better, but still not great. Now comes the full spectrum lights, and emphasis on quality diodes with better spectrums (301B, 301H), which were really the game changers, along with dimmable lights to help with adjusting light intensity. I can see for the future even more fine tunning of the chips and spectra. Just trying to get this thread back on track.
 

I Care

Well-known member
I’m amazed how many different factors growers selecting for their grows and gaining experience on. And that each has their own vision to encourage their plants to offer a personable appeal.


I know this isn’t a this vs. that or who vs who discussion, a prefab eBay clearance sale thanks to all the skin that is in the research. I haven’t fought through the struggle for the last decade. Serious respect to anybody who has endlessly sought out the spectrum and efficiency to provide these effective fixtures aimed at low yielding indoor annuals. COCO specifically is the entrepreneurial sponsor of my yellow brick road to LED fixtures. Looking around at trial and error and then finding a light that has a similar model producing scientific results offered on YouTube. That hard work led me to the light that powers my persuit of happiness. I remember watching some light reviews from last year where Coco says something certain over powering diodes which mostly affected ppfd/w efficiency.



To be bold about my personal conclusion. The worst mistake I personally made with LED was inappropriate use of the dimmer switch. I neglected to understand that LED (unlike traditional lighting) will light up below its minimum operating efficiency. I did come to understand where mistakes have been made by over driving. As in 1w/diode is inefficient as .1w to 4 times as many diodes and you would get a light starved plant. In the case that 250W be insufficient on 250 diodes similar and also inefficient at 2500 diodes.


I experienced that optimum on a fixture provided by companies, reviewed by public figures with meters, and released to careful consumers. Which I guess would be the same for DIYers. Getting the dimmer where it’s delivering between .2-.3w/ diode with the height 30 - 40cm when the plant Is in fruit. Then I’ve got to have a soil/solution with extra cal/mag/K content in order to keep everything in line. Occasionally I flip the dimmer back and forth but the plants say definitely an optimum thats a click back on the driver for my XS2500Pro powered flower rig.



This is kind of the same info coming from this thread and my own research, at least what I’ve selected and packed away throughout the last year. A year ago my answer to indoor lighting was 1000w sun systems with digital 600-1100. Decision that smaller space means smaller failures I went with 250w XS2500pro to suit my 20in(50cm)x36in(90cm) grow space. The math on that comes out to 4.8sqft (about 1/2m).

My personal experience so far. I think I’m basically agreeing with what others have agreed upon in this thread. Probably want 200 diodes per square foot powered between (.2-.3w)/diode. So about 2000 per square meter or maybe a little more. I can kind of see here where like 2500 at 600-700w in a 5x5(1.5m x1.5m) would work for someone considering so serving the kWh.

Calling this 4.8sq ft might be cheating.
IMG_1020.jpeg
IMG_1021.jpeg
IMG_1022.jpeg

1.6x5=8ftsq if I do a gpw/(ft/m) it will not likely be anything impressive

I lazy manned my way into an issue. leaves are consequence of 4days lazy watering with high nutrient solution and aggressive correction of the issue.

this is a little box drying rig with some frosting.
bug was resting on the wall, so no issue

image.jpg image.jpg
 

PadawanWarrior

Well-known member
I’m amazed how many different factors growers selecting for their grows and gaining experience on. And that each has their own vision to encourage their plants to offer a personable appeal.


I know this isn’t a this vs. that or who vs who discussion, a prefab eBay clearance sale thanks to all the skin that is in the research. I haven’t fought through the struggle for the last decade. Serious respect to anybody who has endlessly sought out the spectrum and efficiency to provide these effective fixtures aimed at low yielding indoor annuals. COCO specifically is the entrepreneurial sponsor of my yellow brick road to LED fixtures. Looking around at trial and error and then finding a light that has a similar model producing scientific results offered on YouTube. That hard work led me to the light that powers my persuit of happiness. I remember watching some light reviews from last year where Coco says something certain over powering diodes which mostly affected ppfd/w efficiency.



To be bold about my personal conclusion. The worst mistake I personally made with LED was inappropriate use of the dimmer switch. I neglected to understand that LED (unlike traditional lighting) will light up below its minimum operating efficiency. I did come to understand where mistakes have been made by over driving. As in 1w/diode is inefficient as .1w to 4 times as many diodes and you would get a light starved plant. In the case that 250W be insufficient on 250 diodes similar and also inefficient at 2500 diodes.


I experienced that optimum on a fixture provided by companies, reviewed by public figures with meters, and released to careful consumers. Which I guess would be the same for DIYers. Getting the dimmer where it’s delivering between .2-.3w/ diode with the height 30 - 40cm when the plant Is in fruit. Then I’ve got to have a soil/solution with extra cal/mag/K content in order to keep everything in line. Occasionally I flip the dimmer back and forth but the plants say definitely an optimum thats a click back on the driver for my XS2500Pro powered flower rig.



This is kind of the same info coming from this thread and my own research, at least what I’ve selected and packed away throughout the last year. A year ago my answer to indoor lighting was 1000w sun systems with digital 600-1100. Decision that smaller space means smaller failures I went with 250w XS2500pro to suit my 20in(50cm)x36in(90cm) grow space. The math on that comes out to 4.8sqft (about 1/2m).

My personal experience so far. I think I’m basically agreeing with what others have agreed upon in this thread. Probably want 200 diodes per square foot powered between (.2-.3w)/diode. So about 2000 per square meter or maybe a little more. I can kind of see here where like 2500 at 600-700w in a 5x5(1.5m x1.5m) would work for someone considering so serving the kWh.

Calling this 4.8sq ft might be cheating.
View attachment 19062675 View attachment 19062676 View attachment 19062677
1.6x5=8ftsq if I do a gpw/(ft/m) it will not likely be anything impressive

I lazy manned my way into an issue. leaves are consequence of 4days lazy watering with high nutrient solution and aggressive correction of the issue.

this is a little box drying rig with some frosting.
bug was resting on the wall, so no issue

View attachment 19062691 View attachment 19062690
Nice. Looks like you're dealing with a little P deficiency. When that happens to me I add some high P bat guano.
 

I Care

Well-known member
I had two problems, my final run off water was 2100 at one point. I use a mix of cal mag, calnit micro, biothrive bloom, molasses and jacks tomato with a ml or two of pk and a ml of armor silicate here and there through flower and try to just keep at 1100-1200ppm watering heavily.

I let some 1470s water slip as the last gallon of input thinking I’ll water next day or two no big deal. 4 days later I get 2100 at the end of run off. burned and then starved. Ill just say… I was wandering around in shoes without socks for the entire week.

this was before that foolishness, dialed in
IMG_0935.jpeg


1400s w/ tent open
IMG_0982.jpeg

Oops
IMG_1005.jpeg


plant is bummed out about all the changes but I stopped more of the sugar burns by cutting back shy of optimum until things leveled off in and out.

I just learned something where I may have better dealt with this. To put the dimmer back one notch to that .2w/diode while I was neglecting root zone. Younger character, one of Dr. Bruce Bugbees colleagues warning about this, that higher inputs can result in a disruption with your EC when running higher light levels.

I’ll blame the plant really cause it’s transpiring had me having to sort out some ppm issue that compounded with pH7+ (probably K-sil).

I mean this pot was dry to the drain holes 8 days ago gave it near 3.0/1500 ph water 5 days before that and every day since I saw 4.2/2100@7+ph; with 1.8/900@-6pH @me to get 2.3/[email protected] running out again, 2 days ago.

The fan leaves saved the days I had shoes on and socks off.
 
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