LED and BUD QUALITY

[kro-magnon]

One of the main difference I've found growing with LED compared to HPS is the water intake and nutrients level I had to adjust because of that. I've had to lower the quantity of water given at each watering but also lower the number of waterings in a week.
With the HPS grow I was giving 1L of water for a 10/12L pot 3 times a week with lower doses of nutrients than the charts of the brand prescribed, I had good result with this method for years.
With my LED grows I had to re-learn to water my plants, it has not been easy to lose my old habits but now after 1.5 year using LED I have a better understanding of my plants need. I had to up the nutrients level of my waterings by a good % and lower the numbers of watering by week.
Water and nutrients intake is one of the major point of quality buds as well as the light and environment, I'd like to know how other LED growers are feeding their plants to see if I can learn some new stuff. I have for years used General Organics line who is now Terra Aquatica in Europe but it's the same quality product, I like this line but for my last run I've tried Aptus who allow to separate each elements, it's very useful but I need more grows to know if it makes better buds or not, so far I'm not conviced.

 

[I Care]

Please ignore my neglect, got my hands full but it’s starting to bulk up now. It’s been warm and humid in there and as suggested I added a little light to see what it can do for the larf at the bottom.

I think it’s really important to stay right at that 1200-1300ppm from early flowering and keep nutrient solution constantly available in the substrate; When growing LED.

 

[Rocket Soul]

One of the main difference I've found growing with LED compared to HPS is the water intake and nutrients level I had to adjust because of that. I've had to lower the quantity of water given at each watering but also lower the number of waterings in a week.
With the HPS grow I was giving 1L of water for a 10/12L pot 3 times a week with lower doses of nutrients than the charts of the brand prescribed, I had good result with this method for years.
With my LED grows I had to re-learn to water my plants, it has not been easy to lose my old habits but now after 1.5 year using LED I have a better understanding of my plants need. I had to up the nutrients level of my waterings by a good % and lower the numbers of watering by week.
Water and nutrients intake is one of the major point of quality buds as well as the light and environment, I'd like to know how other LED growers are feeding their plants to see if I can learn some new stuff. I have for years used General Organics line who is now Terra Aquatica in Europe but it's the same quality product, I like this line but for my last run I've tried Aptus who allow to separate each elements, it's very useful but I need more grows to know if it makes better buds or not, so far I'm not conviced.

My advice for led nutes qnd coco: obviously a bit higher than usual, especially when up-potting: weve run 3 EC on our freshly up potted plants with fairly normal run off. It helps to get your fresh coco pot a bit better buffered.

 

[kro-magnon]

My advice for led nutes qnd coco: obviously a bit higher than usual, especially when up-potting: weve run 3 EC on our freshly up potted plants with fairly normal run off. It helps to get your fresh coco pot a bit better buffered.

I don’t use coco as substrate, usually I grow in soil mix made for canna like House&Garden BatMix or some light mix from Mills where l add some dry amendments

 

[Rocket Soul]

I don’t use coco as substrate, usually I grow in soil mix made for canna like House&Garden BatMix or some light mix from Miller where l add some dry amendments

Were all liquid nutes. Dry amendments dont seem ideal for led grows, you some times have to change nute strength rather drastically and dry amendments isnt great for that

 

[kro-magnon]

I use the dry amendments as a base and I use some bottled nutes as well. For years I’ve used General Organics and I try Aptus right now

 

[hillbil]

I run ROLS at 50% in my grow mix in small containers and mostly white LEDs. Because I use small containers I supplement with Compost Tea and Alfalfa Meal based teas.

Girls are most of the time quite happy.

 

[PlastikeRubba]

100 dollars to anyone who can get Bruce Bugbee to stop blaming Zinc deficiency on red light.



I offered 1000 to force him to admit plants absorb zwitterionic organic salts. Seems the conspiracy against quality Marijuana is larger than I thought. The fan boys are in on it.


Still no nutrient experts in the Cannabis scene? Only light meter salesmen? Someone please post the PAR readings for a meanwell powered 120 watt 188 diode panel at 18" so every new grower can have this data without buying light meters please.

 

[Rocket Soul]

100 dollars to anyone who can get Bruce Bugbee to stop blaming Zinc deficiency on red light.



I offered 1000 to force him to admit plants absorb zwitterionic organic salts. Seems the conspiracy against quality Marijuana is larger than I thought. The fan boys are in on it.


Still no nutrient experts in the Cannabis scene? Only light meter salesmen? Someone please post the PAR readings for a meanwell powered 120 watt 188 diode panel at 18" so every new grower can have this data without buying light meters please.

Problem here is that Bugbees research is based on 660nm red peaks; he then generalized this as "red light" as if all reds are the same. Which they are not.

 

[Orange's Greenhouse]

Problem here is that Bugbees research is based on 660nm red peaks; he then generalized this as "red light" as if all reds are the same. Which they are not.

What do you expect? A 4 minute clip necessitates simplification.

Give it a few years and the research topics get more specialized. Red light will be split into more subcatogories, small waveband emitters will be compared to wide band emission etc. Science is slow.

 

[I Care]

@ReprobateMind there more heads here if you’re having/seeking-help-with issues with plant health in the middle of flower.

 

[Porky82]

My intention isn’t to make you feel bad or to put you down, so i hope you won’t take it like that

I tried to find a post by you where you show your nutrient lab test results. Couldn’t find it but i found some photos of your grow. I lifted the photo out of your post on page 184 on this thread.

If your nutrient analysis is based on this feed that you gave these plants and you assume it’s spot on. it’s just not

The dark color of leaves and leaves cupping like that is a well know sign on too much Nitrogen. This isn’t any news for sativa and haze growers. When your haze hybrid has leaves cupping like that the grower gave them too much N

The photos of your dried buds show the same problem. Way too much N

View attachment 19061664

If you think that is how you good weed is supposed to look like. Or if you think it compares well with the bud you smoked by some other grower then all i can say that you have never smoked well grown bud in your life.

I’m not just trying to say mean things to make you feel bad. It’s just how it is.

If you think that is good then you have no idea what good weed is.




I think you guys are trying to fix your led issues the wrong way by giving them more higher EC and more nitrogen


If the argument is that high ppfd or intense led light needs stronger nutrient feed to support the metabolism or how ever the fuck your jargon goes

Then explain to me why it’s accumulating in the leaves and showing clear signs of excess feeding.

So if your plants are suffering under your lights it’s something other than nutrient deficiencies because clearly you are over feeding them. It’s not even a debate.



@greayfader i saw photos of your plants too. same issue. too much N



Come at me boys. i know your egos can’t handle this. you will get upset and want to start shit with me like you did before. Get the whole clown squad together so i can ream the fuck out of the whole bunch at the same time

This has to be one of the funniest posts I've read in ages.
You should have a look at my plants if ya want to see to much N! They fucking frying in it!

 

[Ca++]

Edit: The white pen is a mistake, I can't see in the edit to correct.

The bleaching doesn't seem that complicated. The question is as much about why they make chlorophyll below 600umol, as it is why they stop above it. We know of a few mechanisms employed to slow photosynthesis, and conversely think chlorophyll helps photosynthesis. We feel 1800umol is very bright, and the point where damage starts to occur. Looking at that 1800, if it came from the sun (as expected) then the red fraction would be about 600 (600+600+600=1800) So I surmise, that the plant moves from protection mechanisms (such as pigmentation) to a method of actually reducing the capture equipment.

I don't feel I need to know any more than this. We have cause and effect, and so how to avoid it, and the consequences of letting it run. It's interesting that a few years ago we were working HIDs and knew non of this, but did know to move the light. My team actually thought it was the heat. Today we can pick the lights we need, based on red fraction and our intended illumination. It would be nice to see a graph of that. I expect it would tell us R80 (80% red) is great at 600umol/m2. Than the plot would finish with R40 (40% red) at 1700umol/m2. With the line passing though R60, at around 1200umol/m2. We don't see these R% numbers very often, as they are more relevant when specifying pink lights. Most of our lights are around R60 though, I think.

I will put the coloured pens down now