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How To Prevent Botrytis, PM, and Bacterial Leaf Spot Disease

Team Microbe

Active member
Veteran
I don't think Chemotherapy and Synthetic nutrients are comparable items. Matter of fact they're more like apples n bowling balls than like apples n oranges.

Also... think about what your saying as well...

"synthetics hinder microbes"

Umm... this is a myth!
Dry soul, causing huge swings in pH hinders microbes.
Also, if synth hinders the good microbes, it hinders the bad as well.

Healty plants are the result of the plant having everything it needs available to them when they need it.
Not growing styles.

Btw, I'm an outdoor soil guy.
Battled PM for the last 3-5 years.
I also had to step back and make the realization that I don't know as much as I need to. But I'm constantly learning.

No, healthy plants are the result of a complete living soil system functioning in symbiosis like nature intended. I can't argue with you guys who don't put the effort in to your research, it's like trying to teach biology to infants. If they can't comprehend the science, what's the point of it? SO frustrating :wallbash:
 

RetroGrow

Active member
Veteran
thumb=1]View Image[/URL][/URL] Hahahaha I know the type

It's funny that you've bonded with my two trolls, not realizing that they are not here to agree with you or add any worthwhile information, but are here only to troll me with their pathological lying. Surprising that you are preaching organics, like they were the holy grail, and yet, I get much greater yield with coco, and never any botrytis, PM, or leaf spot disease. It's a simple task to add beneficials to coco, and in fact, coco has trichoderma in it to begin with, which by itself will prevent fungal infections. Soil has all the bad pathogens in it also, which coco does not, so the "battle" is really very simple. Like I've said several times, I have nothing against organics. It's just not for everybody, and it is not the only way to prevent fungal pathogens, as you imply. Fungal pathogens are easily prevented, and not even an issue for me. Also, there is a very good reason there is a coco forum, and not a peat forum. Maybe you should try preaching there.
 

iTarzan

Well-known member
Veteran
Retro quit pretending you are not currently getting into it with dozens of posters on dozens of threads. Many people have had run-ins with you. And quit pretending that you are not trolling me. You enter every thread after I post first.

You are the preacher too. But your sermons suck!

You are now my puppet. You dance when I pull your strings.

Dance my little puppet! Dance!
 

Team Microbe

Active member
Veteran
It's funny that you've bonded with my two trolls, not realizing that they are not here to agree with you or add any worthwhile information, but are here only to troll me with their pathological lying. Surprising that you are preaching organics, like they were the holy grail, and yet, I get much greater yield with coco, and never any botrytis, PM, or leaf spot disease. It's a simple task to add beneficials to coco, and in fact, coco has trichoderma in it to begin with, which by itself will prevent fungal infections. Soil has all the bad pathogens in it also, which coco does not, so the "battle" is really very simple. Like I've said several times, I have nothing against organics. It's just not for everybody, and it is not the only way to prevent fungal pathogens, as you imply. Fungal pathogens are easily prevented, and not even an issue for me. Also, there is a very good reason there is a coco forum, and not a peat forum. Maybe you should try preaching there.

Maybe you get bigger yields in coco than soil, but that's just based on your personal skill set. You clearly have no comprehension in the soil food web, or you wouldn't write off trichoderma as a fix-all and call pest/pathogen resistance "very simple". You don't have anything against organics because you can't be against anything you're unfortunately ignorant to, not to sound like a dick but that's the truth of that matter man. It's a lot more complex than adding this or adding that in terms of microbes - it's about hosting them in the medium itself and providing everything they need to thrive. It's all about feeding the soil, not the plant directly. "Adding bennies" is a hydro-coined mind set when you look at it as an additive, it's meant to be sustained long-term and won't if it's not given a diverse media full of humus and other soil food web constituents.
 

MJPassion

Observer
ICMag Donor
Veteran
No, healthy plants are the result of a complete living soil system functioning in symbiosis like nature intended. I can't argue with you guys who don't put the effort in to your research, it's like trying to teach biology to infants. If they can't comprehend the science, what's the point of it? SO frustrating :wallbash:

UMMMM...

YOU REALLY NEED TO REMOVE YOUR BLINDERS & HAVE A LOOK AROUND!!!

There are literally TONS of healthy synth plants featured at IC alone.

Your version of truth doesn't necessarily ring true with the remainder of the planet.

You don't know my education or my experience soooo...
WHO THE FUCK ARE YOU CALLING IGNORANT?

YOU'RE A GOD DAMN FOOL!!!

You started this thread for the express purpose of starting an organic v synth argument!

I never said I disagreed with ya either... just pointed out your flawed assumptions about the dynamics of synthetic systems.

It's good that you are learning organic growing styles & that they have helped you to deal with a problem but...

Yiu also need to realize that organics is not for everybody, nor is it for all situations!

The absolute best thing anybody can do ti improve their grows is to be keenly observant to the point that they can read exactly what a particular plant is trying to tell them.

Most organic grows that fail, fail for the exact reason you mention, soil imbalances. Same for synth grows (nutrient imbalances)!

It's my opinion that Synth does not belong in your natural soils or in gorilla grows anywhere but...

Nature has a bad ass clean up crew as well.

You may consider looking into Paul Stamets research of fungi for further info. (Turning petroleum into carbohydrates is a good thing... least I think so)
 

MJPassion

Observer
ICMag Donor
Veteran
same here man..after a few seasons of growing og kush and ever thing ppl said i could never grow with my humidty at 100% nearly during full flower..i had a few good years and didnt get no rot so i thought i knew everthing as well..then last year i got hit hard with bud rot and fungas gnats lost 70% of my plants to bud rot..so i also had to humble up and listen to what others was haveing success with weather its some parts organic and someparts syntheics i dove head first into researching everthing that people was suggesting that worked for them..i then realized that i didnt know as much as i thought i did about growing plants the healthy way..im gonna try the 100% organic route on some my headstash plants but im also gonna amend soil with things like kelp,neem & karnaja meals and use neem & karnaja oils along with some prevention sprays..my commerical grows i smoke buds from everthing to test it out bc i will not slae it if i wont smoke it..i think alot of my issue was useing miracle grow soil and nutes..the miracle grow potting mix use to come with fungas gants flying out the bag when i opened it..i never thought that much about it just thought it was normal..ever year since 2012 i have lost 3-4 plants to fungas gnat larave..i never knew what they was till about 5 months ago when i seen a pic on here and i then realized that was why some my plants had (worms)..thats what me and my dad called them bc we had no ideal what they was,we just thought they was in the soil in the hills we grow in..they would tunnel into the main stalk and turn it into mush..now after its all been said and done,im glad that last years nite mare grow turned out like it did bc it got me to realize that i was never doing the correct things anyways..

The best preventative I've found for fungus gnats are "Mosquito Dunks/Bits".

Best preventative for mites is diligent inspections when they start coming out in the spring, diatomaceous earth & Azadirachtin (sp?).

AN OUNCE OF PREVENTION IS WORTH A POUND OF CURED!
 

harold

Member
TM - whats your opinion on bio-char? & diatomaceous earth, instead of crustacean meal?

I can't find oyster shell flour, only granules (for chickens), can find dolomite lime though.

Hats off to some of the healthiest plants on icmag :)

ps why can't we all just get along? things get heated so quickly its ridiculous.
 

MJPassion

Observer
ICMag Donor
Veteran
TM - whats your opinion on bio-char? & diatomaceous earth, instead of crustacean meal?

I can't find oyster shell flour, only granules (for chickens), can find dolomite lime though.

Hats off to some of the healthiest plants on icmag :)

Oyster shells work excellent as a Ca supply. Be sure ti rinse them well before incorporating them into your mix. The chunky oyster shells can be floured in a blender but don't use the one in the kitchen... go get a cheap one for this purpose.

Crustation meals have the advantage of containing chitosan.
 

Mikell

Dipshit Know-Nothing
ICMag Donor
Veteran
Agricultural lime is a reasonable substitute for oyster shell, chemically they're similar enough for our purpose. Chicken grit takes about 5 years to break down IIRC. Like greensand, hard rock phosphate, etc, more useful if you're recycling/no-till.

PS. It's all the ego floating around. High amounts makes people create ludricrous claims, soil out yielding coir for one.

FGI (For General Information :p), oystershell is mined fossilized crustacean meal, a bit different from ground oyster shells re:grit. Unsure if the CCE would be similar.
 

DuskrayTroubador

Well-known member
Veteran
You need Equisetum arvense strain,very common in Europe and
North America,i go in forest and there she grows in huge amounts where wet and shadowy places are usually.

Horstail works cause of silica and sulphur that plant contains,changing a PH factor of leaf surface and implementing
totaly natural silica..i was save till now lot of plants and clones
afected by some funghal disease..Horstail rejuvenate even died
tissue and promote new healthy growing.

Spray 3 days in row for total protection,
same if you have already affected plants with some disease,
Horstail tea you can use even on the end of flowering cause its gentle and will not mold your plants.

Tea you made in a way you live to soak dryed Horstail 30-40 grams
of dried per 2 liter of water for 24 hours and then cook for 20 minutes to boil easily,after tea get cold strain Horstail with strainer
and use diluted tea 1:1 tea-plain water and spray hole plants trying to get all areas and leafes,

if you do this for 3 days in row you will get mighty protection and much sturdier plants,silica implemented in this way can also protect them against spidermites and trips as they will have problems to feed on leafes that are treated with Horstail.

Try man,its cheap and effective.


All the best


DS

What do you use for other insects may I ask?

It seems that horsetail is a bit of a wonder-cure, I may just have to go and find some.

I already grow strains that are pretty resistant to mold, disease, and the works (KC33, Green Poison, Special Queen) so I would like to not have to return to using something as heavy-duty as immunox if I can avoid doing so.

Horsetail me do just the thing, however I don't think I'll ever be able to spray three consecutive days, could I compensate by mixing up a more potent spray?
 

MJPassion

Observer
ICMag Donor
Veteran
My question was never answered either...

Is EM5 detrimental to beneficial insect populations?

Somebody said it kills whatever bug eats it so I believe this to be an extremely important question.
 

MJPassion

Observer
ICMag Donor
Veteran
What do you use for other insects may I ask?

It seems that horsetail is a bit of a wonder-cure, I may just have to go and find some.

I already grow strains that are pretty resistant to mold, disease, and the works (KC33, Green Poison, Special Queen) so I would like to not have to return to using something as heavy-duty as immunox if I can avoid doing so.

Horsetail me do just the thing, however I don't think I'll ever be able to spray three consecutive days, could I compensate by mixing up a more potent spray?

The purpose of spraying 3 days in a row is to get direct contact of the spray on any critters that may hatch within that time frame. ;)
 

harold

Member
after a bit of research i see diatomaceous earth is made from diatoms and aren't really crustaceans.

I can get some Antarctic Krill Meal 5 kg for £20, not cheap, but worth testing if im losing half my crop on average!
 

MJPassion

Observer
ICMag Donor
Veteran
Harold...

before spending your money on a bunch of stuff to put in your soil/soilless mix, you might consider having a soil test done.

With soil testing, you will know exactly what your medium is lacking or in excess of and you can ammend accordinly.

Your local Ag Station may be able to help you get these tests done or you may choose any of several independent soil testing labs. Tests cost anywhere fro $20. increasing as the number of things tested are increased.

If not in USA, check with local Ag departments for testing
 

Team Microbe

Active member
Veteran
UMMMM...

YOU REALLY NEED TO REMOVE YOUR BLINDERS & HAVE A LOOK AROUND!!!

There are literally TONS of healthy synth plants featured at IC alone.

Your version of truth doesn't necessarily ring true with the remainder of the planet.

You don't know my education or my experience soooo...
WHO THE FUCK ARE YOU CALLING IGNORANT?

YOU'RE A GOD DAMN FOOL!!!

You started this thread for the express purpose of starting an organic v synth argument!

I never said I disagreed with ya either... just pointed out your flawed assumptions about the dynamics of synthetic systems.

It's good that you are learning organic growing styles & that they have helped you to deal with a problem but...

Yiu also need to realize that organics is not for everybody, nor is it for all situations!

The absolute best thing anybody can do ti improve their grows is to be keenly observant to the point that they can read exactly what a particular plant is trying to tell them.

Most organic grows that fail, fail for the exact reason you mention, soil imbalances. Same for synth grows (nutrient imbalances)!

It's my opinion that Synth does not belong in your natural soils or in gorilla grows anywhere but...

Nature has a bad ass clean up crew as well.

You may consider looking into Paul Stamets research of fungi for further info. (Turning petroleum into carbohydrates is a good thing... least I think so)

While those plants may look healthy at first glance, I can tell you if it has no functioning immunity it is not healthy. Have you ever heard of John Kempf? Check out some of his lectures on the stages of plant health:

http://bionutrient.org/library/audio-archive

Scroll down half way til you see John Kempf 1/2/3/4. All 4 lectures are incredible man. Mind blowing science. You'll look at synthetic grows in a completely different light afterwards. I don't mean to call any synthetic growers out here because I've been down that road, but I'm just here to pass along what I've learned from personal experience and research. You can disagree or agree, but science is science and opinions don't really hold weight when it comes down to it. Most people don't know what a healthy looking plant even looks like. It took me 10 years to see one, and I never had many problems in soilless mixes using bottles. I thought those plants were as healthy as healthy gets... boy was I wrong!

Organics is for everybody. It can be practiced anywhere synthetics can be used, and it will out-perform synthetics every single time (considering each method is performed to it's peak potential). It's just nature's law, I can't explain it any better than that. Until you do the research and discover these things on your own you'll never buy into it... bc the majority of growers aren't doing this. Might as well stick with the crowd right? Has it ever dawned on you that the crowd might be doing everything wrong? Conventional Ag is a laughing joke among the community, anyone who sites a professor always makes a fool of themselves because their teachings are so ass backwards when it comes to real world agriculture. Short chained compounds fall lightyears short of long chained, complex compounds that are able to form from a living soil system.

Those synthetic grows that look so healthy to us are in reality - not healthy at all. They're always on the tipping point, when it comes to both food and water. If you're not there night and day to tweak and try to play God then things go south fast. It's quite cocky actually, to think that humans can grow plants better than mother nature can. Almost on the verge of... dare I say... ignorant
 

Team Microbe

Active member
Veteran
Lets see how "organic" you really are?

Post a picture of your medicine cabinet!

lol ok -

picture.php


"organic enough" for you?

Besides these plant supplements all I use is Neem/Karanja meal, kelp, oyster shell, crab shell, gypsum, and rock dusts in the soil

The best preventative I've found for fungus gnats are "Mosquito Dunks/Bits".

Best preventative for mites is diligent inspections when they start coming out in the spring, diatomaceous earth & Azadirachtin (sp?).

AN OUNCE OF PREVENTION IS WORTH A POUND OF CURED!

Those things aren't healthy to have in your grow room, Neem Oil and beneficial mites like H. Miles are gnats top 2 worst enemies. Neem Oil has more constituents than other "Aza" products, especially cold-pressed neem from India like Ahimsa carries.

TM - whats your opinion on bio-char? & diatomaceous earth, instead of crustacean meal?

I can't find oyster shell flour, only granules (for chickens), can find dolomite lime though.

Hats off to some of the healthiest plants on icmag :)

ps why can't we all just get along? things get heated so quickly its ridiculous.

Bio char is amazing, be sure to pre-charge it before using though. I have yet to try it but many vets use it in their no-till pots so I'm thinking about grabbing some myself. D.E. is harmful for microorganisms because it cuts them up, just as it does gnats and other bugs. This is no bueno, especially on the top layer where most of the microbe army resides. You should order oyster shell, crab shell and neem meal online if you can't find it locally. Crab and neem work together synergistically against pests and disease, they're a great pair when it comes to amendment mixing. Crab is great and activates the plant's SAR because of the chitin, also supplies calcium. Ag lime is a good 2nd bet, but is harmful to the soil food web in the long run since it crusts up a little bit. I mixed some into my outdoor holes a few years ago and the year after the holes needed to be broken up due to the lime hardening on me.

Drama will always be had man, when someone's method doesn't match up with someone else's their ego's step up to bat and try to hit the ball further than the next guy. It's so silly, we should be helping each other instead of arguing or getting mad at the guys putting effort into spreading info and helping other growers. Some just think they have it figured it out, and until they study microbiology they simply won't become humbled like the rest of us. It goes from being cocky, to being humiliated, to lastly... being humbled. The problem is - when you become humbled you begin opening your mind up to other possibilities, which leads to the truth eventually. And when you find the truth behind something you just want everyone else to know, and you begin to sound cocky again :laughing:

PS. It's all the ego floating around. High amounts makes people create ludricrous claims, soil out yielding coir for one.

Your statement has so much irony packed in one sentence that it's almost unbelievable that you haven't picked up on what's going on here:

You're saying that I have such a big ego, that I make ludicrous claims like soil out yields coco coir.

uhhhhhhmm.... HELLO! I could say the same thing for you - Has it ever crossed your mind that your ego is so big that my peat claim is just unfathomable for you to believe? That your anecdotal observations are so much more creditable than scientific research?

You're trying to bash my ego while yours is doing the talking this very moment, and I've gotta say I'm embarrassed for you brother. Claiming that coco out yields peat is no different than me claiming that peat out yields coco. The only difference here, is that my claim is proven already with scientific data gathered from other people besides myself. Where's your data backing up your coco theory? Stop pissing into the wind lol


What do you use for other insects may I ask?

It seems that horsetail is a bit of a wonder-cure, I may just have to go and find some.

I already grow strains that are pretty resistant to mold, disease, and the works (KC33, Green Poison, Special Queen) so I would like to not have to return to using something as heavy-duty as immunox if I can avoid doing so.

Horsetail me do just the thing, however I don't think I'll ever be able to spray three consecutive days, could I compensate by mixing up a more potent spray?

Neem oil (cold pressed from India) is the backbone to my IPM foliar/drench routine. It can literally be used against any insect, and will aid in protection against airborne pathogens. Plus it has a rich NPK value and is great for all around plant health :tiphat:
 

Mikell

Dipshit Know-Nothing
ICMag Donor
Veteran
Alright, I'll bite. Always with the assumptions. I never claimed coir outyielded peat, just that ego drives people to make ludricrous claims. Re-read my post if that helps. I would however, like to see anything you can provide to assert your position.


Let's have some information to back up all these claims, it will benefit everyone. Pointing to general information on soil science and ranting rhetoric isn't going to cut it. Try to stick to straight forward answers, don't push the burden of proof on to anyone but yourself, and avoid preaching.

It can be practiced anywhere synthetics can be used, and it will out-perform synthetics every single time (considering each method is performed to it's peak potential). It's just nature's law, I can't explain it any better than that.
Try.

I'd love to see non-anectdotal evidence that peat out yields coir. Actual results, not ruminations pulled from growing in a closet/spare room. Comprehensive, replicable testing with large populations is the only acceptable method, here or in the greater agricultural community. As well, if you could attach a few pictures with information detailing your experience with coir, it would provide insight as to your credibility in comparing the two.

Might as well include why you think Bti is harmful in the grow room, and explain why would I apply a broad spectrum fungicidal oil in place of a narrow range pesticide. I don't think that would bode well for any fungi in my soil.

Your observations on agricultural lime are interesting, but one should try to avoid drawing conclusions from limited anectdotal experience. If you could explain how oystershell flour will not react in a very similar way as agricultural lime, it would be beneficial to all.

How DE is harmful to micro organisms (I believe you meant arthropods) in a proper living organic soil, kept moist-wet.

you've yet to open a book on real life agriculture
You can disagree or agree, but science is science and opinions don't really hold weight when it comes down to it.
anyone who sites a professor always makes a fool of themselves
Do you have any scientific evidence of chemicals having a positive effect on microorganisms, or is that just an anecdotal observation?
Conventional Ag is a laughing joke
Do you find any of these positions conflicting? Is not this entire thread based upon your own anectdotal findings?

If you find yourself tapping out a reply devoid of any specific referenced material and full of conjecture and rhetoric, save us all the wasted time and don't bother.

Symphony of the Soil was the documentary you were struggling to reference. I say this for a reason, any statements from you directing me to "learn about the soil/micro-organisms" will be duly ignored.
 

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