How To Prevent Botrytis, PM, and Bacterial Leaf Spot Disease

[Microbeman]

Unlike peat or soil? Can you elaborate?

Having to do with porosity and CEC and soluble nutrients utilized.

 

[milkyjoe]

Would it blow your mind if I told you that organic crops can yield more than conventional? It's true...

A plant's genetic capacity can only go so far. We can't "add" weight onto yields basically, because their inherent potential has a limit. This limit is never achieved, bc stress reduces potential every time it's brought about. We only harvest about 20% of our plant's true potential. The other 80% is taken away throughout the plant's life cycle. (John Kempf talks more about this over at bionutrient.org)

imo the genetic potential argument does not apply to cannabis as we grow it for two reasons: a) it is photoperiood sensitive...want higher yield on a plant let it veg longer and drive photosynethesis harder by keeping enough base cations in the sap and b) because we never let it pollinate it essentially remains in a vegetative state its entire life

The only thing limiting it is how much chlorophyll you can produce. And that can be done synthetically as well as organically as well as what ever the latest buzzz word style is.

Also when you get that soil test done throw in a compost test and find out how much nitrate is in your soil. With Coot style mixes I have seen very high nitrate levels and that is a problem for a couple of reasons. One, nitrate is the leachable form of nitrogen...you are contaminating the water table as much or more than the guy using low levels of synthetics when you reach that state. Two, when the plant takes up nitrates it has to bring water with it into the sap. The extra water dilutes the sap, meaning it contains lower levels of base cations, particularly Ca. You simply cannot reach correct sap pH levels or brix levels with high nitrate period. And those base cations are what allows the plant to form long chain compounds which protect it against disease. That is based on Nova Crop Control work and has not been peer reviewed so take it for what you think it is worth...but I measure sap pH and believe I have seen the correlation myself. The more your sap pH drops the more open your plant is to fungal disease.

In fact if you watch the pH of your outdoor soil and sap in say a smallish 1 yard pot you will see both begin to drop late season as the plant uses up available base cations in the soil. At that point you are far better off feeding through fertigation...salts or finely ground organic stuff...than you are relying on microbes.

Now, I do not understand yet why the coot mix sometimes ends up with high nitrate...but the neem meal may be contributing. I actually find Microbeman's strategy of using tiny amounts of alfalfa from time to time more effective. It is a certainty that high nitrate will shut down (not kill, just make dormant) any N fixing bacteria like azotabacter.

btw...kempf says that his stage three health cannot be reached with high nitrate soils. Does not matter organic or not. When the plant takes up nitrate a lot of energy has to be expended to convert that nitrate into protein. That loss of energy prevents the plant from being able to form fat...phospholipids, that build stronger cell walls and serve as a physical barrier to spore attack. Again...not peer reviewed so you gotta take that for what you think it is worth.

 

[milkyjoe]

Lets just do some math. If I did the math correctly Coot is adding 0.56 lbs of N per yard of soil not counting compost. So lets compare that to what say a corn farmer adds to an acre of soil.

A furrow slice of soil is assumed to weigh 2,000,000 lbs and is 6" deep meaning it is 807 yards. Your typical farmer may use 250 units of N. So 250/807 is 0.31 lbs N per yard.

But you also gotta take weight of the soil into account. That yard of corn farmer soil weighs 2,000,000/807 is 2478 lbs vs around 750 lbs for the coot.

So 2478/750 is 3.3 times the weight. So putting 0.56 lbs N in a yad of potting soil is the equivalent of putting 1.9 lbs per yard in the farmers soil...basically 6 x as much N as your avg corn farmer uses.

itt is no real wonder why the soil ends up high nitrate. And that basically ends the organic is better argument. Now you wanna cut down the use of N and I may buy the organic is better argument.

 

[Ftscustm]

Thank you for that, respect

Thank you for that, respect

Lets just do some math. If I did the math correctly Coot is adding 0.56 lbs of N per yard of soil not counting compost. So lets compare that to what say a corn farmer adds to an acre of soil.

A furrow slice of soil is assumed to weigh 2,000,000 lbs and is 6" deep meaning it is 807 yards. Your typical farmer may use 250 units of N. So 250/807 is 0.31 lbs N per yard.

But you also gotta take weight of the soil into account. That yard of corn farmer soil weighs 2,000,000/807 is 2478 lbs vs around 750 lbs for the coot.

So 2478/750 is 3.3 times the weight. So putting 0.56 lbs N in a yad of potting soil is the equivalent of putting 1.9 lbs per yard in the farmers soil...basically 6 x as much N as your avg corn farmer uses.

itt is no real wonder why the soil ends up high nitrate. And that basically ends the organic is better argument. Now you wanna cut down the use of N and I may buy the organic is better argument.

I couldn't honestly press the respect button as I have little clue of the meaning of your words in this post. However, the previous post makes me wish to learn more so that this becomes comprehensible and relevant. I have a lot of catching up to do and value this input. Respect, thank you.

 

[Kygiacomo!!!]

What do you use for other insects may I ask?

It seems that horsetail is a bit of a wonder-cure, I may just have to go and find some.

I already grow strains that are pretty resistant to mold, disease, and the works (KC33, Green Poison, Special Queen) so I would like to not have to return to using something as heavy-duty as immunox if I can avoid doing so.

Horsetail me do just the thing, however I don't think I'll ever be able to spray three consecutive days, could I compensate by mixing up a more potent spray?

im growing the Critical Jack and green posion this year as well..the best thing i have found that works on insects in a guerilla grow is neem/karnaja oil..i think to make the plants a bit tougher we should try activating SAR in the plants..this is something i found on here after researching things on how to do it..also has anyone here tried Regalia rx? if so how did it work out for bud rot prevention? i found a shop close by that sales it if anyone has has good results with it..

@ milky joe this seems more like things u know about with proteins and enzymes what do u think of this product?http://www.marronebioinnovations.com/products/brand/regalia-rx/

Methods of inducing Local Acquired Resistance and Induced Systemic Resistance
Induced Resistance

(1) There is a diverse array of signals that stimulate IR.

(2) IR is a sensitization process that primes the plant for
more rapid deployment of defenses.

(3) When integrated into good agricultural practices, IR
can both enhance plant productivity and resistance to
disease.

(4) Has energetic costs


Types of induced resistance

1. Local acquired resistance (LAR)
2. Systemic acquired resistance (SAR)
3. Systemic gene silencing (SGS)
4. Induced systemic resistance (ISR)
5. Systemic wounding response (SWR)

Systemic Acquired Resistance

Controlled by salicylic acid (SA)
Broad resistance
More durable
Relies on the plants endogenous defenses
Classically effective against biotrophic pathogens

Chitosan

Chitosan is a plant defense booster derived through the breaking down of chitin found in shellfish and mullosks.
In general Chitosan can help improve the efficiency of a nutrient or fertilizer.
Chitosan will increase the quantity, size and shelf life of a harvest product. Chitosan is also effective at providing insect and disease control.
The chitosan molecule triggers a defence response within the plant, leading to the formation of physical and chemical barriers against invading pathogens.
Chitosan possesses a high growth stimulating efficacy combined with antifungal and antibacterial activity of systemic character. Chitosan cause no damage to the plant whatsoever.

Chitosan inhibits the reproduction of pathogens. Once applied either via foliar spray or through watering, it provides plant protection against fungal infection by rapid expression of a number of defense responses, including forming structural barriers at sites of attempted fungal attacks.
It also protects against insect attack by activating genes which produce protease inhibitors.
Lastly, chitosan stimulates the plants hormones responsible for root formation,stem growth, fruit formation and development.
In addition to promoting growth and protecting against attacks, using chitosan in a garden can help to improve the beneficial microbial activity of a growing medium.
This increase in microbial activity helps in conversion of nutrients to bio-available form. Chitosan improves the root system, allowing plants to absorb more nutrients from a medium.
We expect
Chitosan to become one of the top plant health and yield products as awareness of its value grows.

Salicylic Acid

The next additive in the this new class of Natural Plant Defenders is Salicylic Acid.
This specific plant molecule has two major functions. In the first it acts as a promoter letting the entire plant know (through the use of intercellular mechanisms) that pathogens are near.
The second way in which Salicylic Acid works is as an activator. It actually heightens the alarm signal a plant experiences. In plants, Salicylic Acid serves the function of ringing the alarm bell when a pathogenic organism begins to invade plant tissues.
A whole web of immunity-enhancing processes unfold after the plants are exposed to Salicylic Acid - when that initial alarm is rung.
A whole range of proteins and enzymes become activated as soon as Salicylic Acid is released and absorbed into plant cells.
Salicylic Acid also promotes DNA-binding proteins that initiate new protein synthesis.

Harpin Protein

The final additive we would like to discuss is the Harpin protein. Harpin, like the other SAR products on this handout,
acts by eliciting a complex natural defense mechanism in plants, analogous to a broad spectrum immune
response in animals. Harpin simultaneously enhances a plant's own growth systems and natural defense mechanisms
to ward off attacks by insects, common diseases and plant stresses.

Unlike Salicylic Acid or Chitosan, Harpin uses a protein for its main mode of action. It can be safely used in a
synergistic way with both Salicylic Acid and Chitosan. Harpin is a naturally occurring bacterial protein present in a
number of species of plant pathogenic bacteria. The first harpin protein was isolated from the bacterium Erwinia
amylovora. To sum up Harpin’s benefits: Along with its plant inducing immune system response, Harpin accelerates
plant development. It increases root and shoot biomass, early flowering, early fruit set, early fruit maturation, and
increases fruit number.

B1 Thiamine

Strengthens plant immune systems so they better stand up to disease and stress.
B1 activates Systemic Acquired Resistance (SAR)

Silicon

Silicon induces the SAR response and enables suberization (cork development in cell walls).

Using Chitosan and Salicylic Acid Together

Compared to Salicylic Acid, Chitosan is slower and less effective at inducing plant cell immunity; in combination
with a well formulated Salicylic Acid solution, chitosan has compounded effects as Salicylic Acid amplifies the
“alarm” triggered by the chitosan. The most powerful products always use both of these ingredients.

P.s aloe vera has Salicylic Acid in it so does Aspirin..so which ever is more convient to use for u is what i would go with..for Chitosan Insect Frass has it(check link at bottom for benefits)..i have a bottle of super thrive left from 2013 that i will use for the B1-thiamin and of course Protekt for the silica..hopefully use a 4 hit combo to Induce SAR to make some outdoor tanks for strains
http://onfrass.com/docs/One sheet_Applications and Benefits.pdf

 

[Dog Star]

Use dry beer yiest for vitamin B complex bomb and huge amounts of natural P,

vitamin B from dry beer yiest are soluble in water and beneficial to give plants,
total antistress therapy.


Regards

DS