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How To Prevent Botrytis, PM, and Bacterial Leaf Spot Disease

Mikell

Dipshit Know-Nothing
ICMag Donor
Veteran
84961-colbert-popcorn-pandawhale-V6XH.gif


I love this gif.
 

RetroGrow

Active member
Veteran
I don't, I've learned that you can only lead them to water.. it's up to them when it comes to drinking. I can't get mad because I used to be the same way lol

Thanks so much for trying to "lead" me. I don't know what I'd do without your "leadership". It may be a surprise to you that different people have different methods, and they also have experience with many methods. When you start getting preachy, and then talk about "20X", you lose credibility. I have nothing against organics. It's just not for everybody. And it doesn't yield close to coco. As far as peat being better than coco, that's laughable. I guess all the coco growers need to switch to peat. You should go to the coco forums and enlighten them. When Stormie agrees with you while trolling, you have a problem. I'm sure you were unaware that he is just trolling, and will literally make up anything that pops into his head. Same tired old trolling statements from the dud king.
 

iTarzan

Well-known member
Veteran
Retro "The Minister of Misinformation" continually spreads his stupidity in every thread he enters.

He doesn't have any experience with anything he babbles on about. He pretends he knows everything but has never grown any other way besides Hempy buckets and has no experience with any other strain except Critical Mass. All anyone has to do is go read his posts and decide for themselves.

He is a creep who slithers around N.Y.C. jamming doctors, lawyers, mothers and fathers cell phones because they annoy him. He doesn't care if people die, go to jail or miss important calls he just wants peace and quiet while he stares at your wives, mothers, sisters, daughters and elementary school children. I don't see how he hasn't been arrested, beaten or banned since 2008.

It is a shame he is allowed to clog up thread after thread. He can't carry Storm Shadows grow experience jock strap.

Now neg rep me again Retro. They are like trophies to me.
 
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iTarzan

Well-known member
Veteran
Sorry about the tangent Team Microbe. I enjoy your threads and posts. You are one of the most helpful posters on ICMag.
 

Team Microbe

Active member
Veteran
Stormy
Show us some pictures of your peat moss grows.
Oh, that's right, you just made that up!

I'll show you a few pictures from my peat moss grows lol -



....The proof is in the pudding my friend

Thanks so much for trying to "lead" me. I don't know what I'd do without your "leadership". It may be a surprise to you that different people have different methods, and they also have experience with many methods. When you start getting preachy, and then talk about "20X", you lose credibility. I have nothing against organics. It's just not for everybody. And it doesn't yield close to coco. As far as peat being better than coco, that's laughable. I guess all the coco growers need to switch to peat. You should go to the coco forums and enlighten them. When Stormie agrees with you while trolling, you have a problem. I'm sure you were unaware that he is just trolling, and will literally make up anything that pops into his head. Same tired old trolling statements from the dud king.

I didn't say peat yielded 20x more than coco, I was speaking about genetic potential and what plants are actually capable of doing. Peat will only get us closer to this potential, but definitely won't yield 20x more. It comes down to soil science, until you put in the work and know what you're talking about then you can't really argue with anything on the subject, am I wrong when I say that?

Retro "The Minister of Misinformation" continually spreads his stupidity in every thread he enters.

He doesn't have any experience with anything he babbles on about. He pretends he knows everything but has never grown any other way besides Hempy buckets and has no experience with any other strain except Critical Mass. All anyone has to do is go read his posts and decide for themselves.

He is a creep who slithers around N.Y.C. jamming doctors, lawyers, mothers and fathers cell phones because they annoy him. He doesn't care if people die, go to jail or miss important calls he just wants peace and quiet while he stares at your wives, mothers, sisters, daughters and elementary school children while he masturbates under the NY Daily News. He has admitted this in his other posts. I don't see how he hasn't been arrested, beaten or banned since 2008.

It is a shame he is allowed to clog up thread after thread. He can't carry Storm Shadows grow experience jock strap.

Now neg rep me again Retro. They are like trophies to me.

Hahahaha I know the type
 
Last edited by a moderator:

Dog Star

Active member
Veteran
Horstail tea for preventing all funghal diseases and to give extra silica nute,
if outdoor are rainy there need to made this procedure more times,

think that in August if you start with Horstail tea and spray few days in row there is a good
chance plants will finished properly,even mold sensitive strains can be growed this way.

Horstail is mighty plant.


Kind regards Team Microbe


DS
 

iTarzan

Well-known member
Veteran
Just because you disagree with somebody doesn't mean they were not trying to be helpful or downplay the fact that they took time to even suggest something.

WTH has happened to the world?

Some people like cats, some dogs and some like both. Why hate on any of them?
 

harold

Member
Hi TM,

Id love to know your outdoor recipe (soil base) for mold free buds... I always grow organic and mold hits me pretty hard most season's, but ill admit most of the soil im starting with is less than ideal, clay based etc.

Is there anything unique/different that your doing that others aren't?

ps I love it how diy compost makes plants shine :)
 

Ftscustm

Member
I am here because I have just done this

in experimentation.
This subject is for me and its outdoor flavour a bonus, I long to drag my garden out of the dark closet and into the light.
I shall now return to the beginning and come back later, informed.
 

Kygiacomo!!!

AppAlachiAn OutLaW
Horstail tea for preventing all funghal diseases and to give extra silica nute,
if outdoor are rainy there need to made this procedure more times,

think that in August if you start with Horstail tea and spray few days in row there is a good
chance plants will finished properly,even mold sensitive strains can be growed this way.

Horstail is mighty plant.


Kind regards Team Microbe


DS

hey dog star this is great info..i have never heard of horsetail before but im also new to organic way of things..this year will be my 1st year giveing it a shot..where can i get the horsetail from? is this horsetail as good or better then insect frass? i know insect frass has chitin in it which activates the SAR(system aquired response) of plants and also chitin disrupts the fungi cell wall..i think i read that it disrupted the cell wall i could be wrong,i will have to double check..i live in a humid area and ever year i have had mold issues,but i didnt ever do any prevention sprays and i was also growing the wrong strains like chemdog,white widow and og kush hybrids and all failed miserably..this year will be all about prevention!!
 

Dog Star

Active member
Veteran
hey dog star this is great info..i have never heard of horsetail before but im also new to organic way of things..this year will be my 1st year giveing it a shot..where can i get the horsetail from? is this horsetail as good or better then insect frass? i know insect frass has chitin in it which activates the SAR(system aquired response) of plants and also chitin disrupts the fungi cell wall..i think i read that it disrupted the cell wall i could be wrong,i will have to double check..i live in a humid area and ever year i have had mold issues,but i didnt ever do any prevention sprays and i was also growing the wrong strains like chemdog,white widow and og kush hybrids and all failed miserably..this year will be all about prevention!!


You need Equisetum arvense strain,very common in Europe and
North America,i go in forest and there she grows in huge amounts where wet and shadowy places are usually.

Horstail works cause of silica and sulphur that plant contains,changing a PH factor of leaf surface and implementing
totaly natural silica..i was save till now lot of plants and clones
afected by some funghal disease..Horstail rejuvenate even died
tissue and promote new healthy growing.

Spray 3 days in row for total protection,
same if you have already affected plants with some disease,
Horstail tea you can use even on the end of flowering cause its gentle and will not mold your plants.

Tea you made in a way you live to soak dryed Horstail 30-40 grams
of dried per 2 liter of water for 24 hours and then cook for 20 minutes to boil easily,after tea get cold strain Horstail with strainer
and use diluted tea 1:1 tea-plain water and spray hole plants trying to get all areas and leafes,

if you do this for 3 days in row you will get mighty protection and much sturdier plants,silica implemented in this way can also protect them against spidermites and trips as they will have problems to feed on leafes that are treated with Horstail.

Try man,its cheap and effective.


All the best


DS
 

Ftscustm

Member
In awe.

In awe.

The Secrets to Preventing Bud Rot


View Image



This entry will explain what we as outdoor growers can do to prevent fungal diseases from ever occurring, how they even manifest in the first place, and a few other things we can do in order to really ensure a healthy harvest. I know all of you hate clipping out botrytis buds as much as I do - there's no worse feeling than hiking out to your patch in October and being forced to leave half of the plant on the ground next to your stalk due to these different types of fungi. Before addressing this problem we must fully understand the process of infection in order to prevent it from ever happening. But before getting to that, I'll start by saying that the key to beating these pathogenic spores is by growing extremely healthy plants. A healthy plant cannot be infected. By anything. Not botrytis, not powdery mildew, not bacterial diseases (leaf spot), nothing. But before moving on, what do I mean by a "healthy plant"? You'll find it quite interesting how similar we humans are to our beloved cannabis plant, and all plants for that matter...


Plant & Human Immune Systems

First off, we must all understand that fungal/bacterial spores are everywhere we go; they're in the air at all times. In the time you took to read that first sentence you inhaled hundreds if not thousands of these spores. That's right! But wait, why aren't we getting sick from them? It's because we have functioning immune systems. I'm about to make a very eye-opening relation between human & plant health that too many growers aren't aware of, and it plays a HUGE role in preventing bud rot so bare with me here...

We as humans have a built-up resistance to pathogens that enter our bodies - solely due to these functioning immune systems. The majority of this system resides in our guts too, this comprises of millions and billions of gut flora (microorganisms). Microorganisms can be beneficial or non-beneficial by nature, so a healthy immune system simply means the beneficial populations are out-numbering the non-beneficial.

View Image

Beneficial gut bacteria

It is Nature's Law that every living organism has an immune system comprised of microorganisms. This is a very important fact to keep in the back of our heads while gardening because we are indeed working with nature, are we not? So with that being said, it is vital that we understand that plants are no different than any other living organism in that they too have functioning immune systems they rely on to maintain high levels of plant health. Human health is centered around the gut, while plant health is actually centered around the soil it grows in.

View Image
"Living organic soil"

Did you know that 1 tablespoon of soil in the forest contains more than 1 billion microorganisms?! It's true, and these are the very microorganisms that dictate whether the plants growing from it are sick or healthy. I like to call it my army - microbes are the key factor when it comes to plant health. I won't turn this into an organic soil post, but in short I can tell all of you hard-working growers out there that organic soil is your best friend. I look at the microbes as an army of defense while I'm not there, and without them my walls are bare and infiltration of fungi spores can and will occur at any time.

What if the plants aren't grown in soil though? What if there are no microorganisms present in the medium? Well, the best analogy I can think of is when a person goes through chemo-therapy. Feeding synthetic bottled nutrients and chemicals to a plant does the same thing chemo does to a patient - it kills the immune system. Wipes it out completely. Zero. Zilch. What happens when humans don't have a functioning immune system? You guessed it - infection occurs. The same goes with plants, when we don't provide that plant with any immunity then we're leaving it to fend for itself. That's why this thread really spoke to me, I felt like I really needed to let people know how I've beat the dreaded fungus and not only that but why I beat it - rather than listing a product or an integrated pest management regimen (which I will also be including later after this entry).



The Process of Infection


View Image
Powdery mildew post-infection

There are many genetic varieties of both Powdery Mildew and Botrytis but all persist through the winter months in the form of sclerotia or mycelia. In the spring, both the sclerotia and the myscelia produce conidiophores which grow millions of asexual spores (conidia) that are then spread by wind and rain. Like mentioned above, there is not avoiding these airborne spores. We breathe in, and even smoke some that land on our trees while we're rolling joints up everyday without second thought. Again, we have functioning immune systems to combat these pathogens - so the key to avoiding them from infecting our plants is to utilize the power of nature and grow in a well-balanced organic soil that contains all the necessary macro/micro nutrients. If we accomplish this step, the rest is Easy Street folks... it's that simple.

You see, when we grow plants with microorganisms in the soil that provide this functioning immunity for the plant - all worries of fungal and bacterial disease fly out the window. This is how - Healthy plants that are supplied with everything needed in the terms of macro/micro nutrients allow that plant to build up and store fats in the form of lipids. These lipids form on the coating of the leaves, and provide this waxy-looking film on them. This layer of lipids is KEY in fending off airborne spores. I repeat, this layer of lipids is KEY in fending off airborne spores. Without it, the leaf surface is susceptible to anything that lands on it.

So say for example I have 2 plants growing side by side in the same location, say a humid swamp environment for example. The healthy organic plant with functional immunity that has already stored lipids will grow in this swamp from seed to harvest without any disease or fungal outbreak, every single damn time. The plant next it grown with synthetic nutrients will allow every spore that lands on it's surface an opportunity to settle down, germinate, and spread infection to that plant systematically.

The way this happens is the spore lands on the leaf, and releases an enzyme called Calcium Pectate. This is just a fancy word meaning the enzyme has the ability to break down pectins. Once the spore has released this enzyme and the pectins are broken down, the leaf is now sporting what we would look at as a big flesh wound. Anything that gets inside that wound, or the plant in this case; will and can cause infection. This is why so many chemical and synthetic growers are having these problems, just like me when I was growing using these methods. The day I stopped feeding with chemicals and started adapting these organic regimens was the day I conquered bacterial & fungal airborne spores. I'm proud to say that I've been powdery mildew and botrytis-free since 2012, and you can too if you adopt these methods I and many others have to prevent bud rot or anything else from ever happening. Please trust me on this folks, I've been through hell and back and I'm here to report on my findings in hopes to stop at least one grower from leaving a pile of bud at each of their holes next October.



My personal experience

You're probably wondering why I'm a nerd about this stuff, and what led me down this path. Long story short, I had a pretty bad outbreak 3 seasons ago and when I dried the crop indoors it spread to my indoor crop as well. This was a very low point in my grow career, I literally broke down and considered shutting down my indoor grow and saying "fuck it" to next year's outdoor. I got drunk out of spite that night, went to bed and woke up the next day with some hidden motivation that I pulled out of somewhere and decided to push my ego to the side and admit I wasn't a very knowledgable grower. This was an extremely humbling experience, and I didn't know how to handle it since I was pretty cocky beforehand. It's like I've lost my credibility as a grower, at least in my own eyes.

Anyways, before this PM outbreak from Hell I lost 40% of my crop the year prior to Botrytis. I just thought that's the way it goes, and everyone has to go through it. Boy was I wrong...


In both 2013 & 2014 I came out 100% mold free. This was ground breaking for me, I literally cried the first day I harvested in '13. I walked out there, and the first plant I approached was with gloves and scissors in hand just ready to clip out my losses for the season. But what was this?! No mildew? No botrytis? Not possible I thought. I had followed some grower's advice on switching to organic soil, but I didn't think that was the reason for my success at that point in time. I busted out my headlamp and inspected again. Nothing. Completely clean herb. I got excited and wanted to celebrate but I figured it was just that plant/strain. 2nd plant was clean, and the 3rd, and the 4th, and 5th. All 20 plants were completely mold-free and I had an entirely different problem on my hands now - too MUCH bud. I had planned for only taking back half of that harvest and now I had too many pounds of bud to dry at my home location. I ended up making 2 sessions out of it, and dried the 2nd batch a few weeks after the 1st one. When I went back for the 2nd half of the crop on October 22nd there still wasn't any mold, and we had gotten a few heavy rain storms in that period of time. I celebrated when I got home, and with the harvest money I threw everything out that I had in the grow room and switched over to an all-organic routine. I've been running soil ever since...




View Image

Blue Widow grown in soil down in the swamp (2014)

The swamps I grew in for 2013/2014 in were the same I've grown in the years before, the same ones that suffer from lingering A.M. humidity and fog. Moisture always gathers at the lowest elevation, and this swamp was IT in that area. I took a hygrometer out there one morning on Day 50 of flowering and it read 92% relative humidity. So I was growing in insane conditions, but the organic routine I've been following for the past 2 years has simply allowed the plants to reach peak health (or what I call peak genetic potential), thus eliminating any possibility of fungal pathogens to bypass the lipid-producing waxy layer on the leaves in order to germinate. They simply dried out due to lack of water!

This method of growing not only saves the grower from worrying about whether or not they're going to harvest a bumper crop that year, but it also opens up the doors when it comes to possible site locations. We can absolutely grow in these humid environments like swamps and bogs, without worrying about fungal take-overs. This puts the guerrilla at an extreme advantage in the outdoor game, because they now have the option of any clandestine location that they want (for the most part) instead of ruling these locations out due to high humidity levels in the air.

What a truly delightful looking strain! Oh, how I wish I had found you a few short weeks ago before I plumped for the DWC route again. I long to grow as nature intended and shall enjoy what follows here. Thank you for your learning and the sharing of your knowledge, this may stay dormant for now but these words shine bright in my future. I started growing in a grow tent, in a canvas awning attached to my caravan home: In winter, condensation used to stream down the walls of both tents. Bath towels would come out ringing wet each day start and still she grew. I have had a suggestion of mould on one bud once, I am sorry I forget the scientific term you used, and am in your company because I wish to avoid the heart ache you found on our behalf. I will have to digest the whole and then do so a few more times to fix the scientific jargon,still in the future I hope to expand my passion with your natural flair in conversation that is more informed on my part.
 

Team Microbe

Active member
Veteran
Hi TM,

Id love to know your outdoor recipe (soil base) for mold free buds... I always grow organic and mold hits me pretty hard most season's, but ill admit most of the soil im starting with is less than ideal, clay based etc.

Is there anything unique/different that your doing that others aren't?

ps I love it how diy compost makes plants shine :)

https://www.icmag.com/ic/showthread.php?t=296052

If you scroll down half way I list my Soil Recipe (I use this for both indoor and out). It's tried and true by many vets and has brought me great success so far, a lot of growers are converting to building their own soil from the ground up using minimal inputs while getting top quality outputs at the same time. All the plants in that thread were grown with that soil mix
 

MJPassion

Observer
ICMag Donor
Veteran
In short, yes. It's not how the nutrients are delivered, it's the functioning immunity that's created in a living soil environment. Synthetics hinder microbe populations, and the chelation process skips that microbe herd all together and goes straight to the plant. Without a diverse microbe population we're entering war with a shortage of troops so-to-speak. Without "good guys" we're out numbered by the "bad guys", which is why more disease outbreak is seen under synthetic regimens where plants aren't given that functioning immunity. It's like when chemo patients kill their gut flora, many get very sick soon there after because their immune system is completely shot
I don't think Chemotherapy and Synthetic nutrients are comparable items. Matter of fact they're more like apples n bowling balls than like apples n oranges.

Also... think about what your saying as well...

"synthetics hinder microbes"

Umm... this is a myth!
Dry soul, causing huge swings in pH hinders microbes.
Also, if synth hinders the good microbes, it hinders the bad as well.

Healty plants are the result of the plant having everything it needs available to them when they need it.
Not growing styles.

Btw, I'm an outdoor soil guy.
Battled PM for the last 3-5 years.
I also had to step back and make the realization that I don't know as much as I need to. But I'm constantly learning.
 

MJPassion

Observer
ICMag Donor
Veteran
EM5 is used as a foliar spray. When the pests take a bite of the plant matter and return to the nest/hive it infects the food source and makes it unedible to the rest of the colony eventually killing them.

What insects are affected by EM5?

Are you doing your part to kill the honey bee population as well?

Non specific pesticide type products are to be avoided in my garden. Even if they are organic.
 

Kygiacomo!!!

AppAlachiAn OutLaW
You need Equisetum arvense strain,very common in Europe and
North America,i go in forest and there she grows in huge amounts where wet and shadowy places are usually.

Horstail works cause of silica and sulphur that plant contains,changing a PH factor of leaf surface and implementing
totaly natural silica..i was save till now lot of plants and clones
afected by some funghal disease..Horstail rejuvenate even died
tissue and promote new healthy growing.

Spray 3 days in row for total protection,
same if you have already affected plants with some disease,
Horstail tea you can use even on the end of flowering cause its gentle and will not mold your plants.

Tea you made in a way you live to soak dryed Horstail 30-40 grams
of dried per 2 liter of water for 24 hours and then cook for 20 minutes to boil easily,after tea get cold strain Horstail with strainer
and use diluted tea 1:1 tea-plain water and spray hole plants trying to get all areas and leafes,

if you do this for 3 days in row you will get mighty protection and much sturdier plants,silica implemented in this way can also protect them against spidermites and trips as they will have problems to feed on leafes that are treated with Horstail.

Try man,its cheap and effective.


All the best


DS

thanks..i got protekt,neem & karnaja oils and meals for this year since im gonna have to look around for the horsetail thing..its just another tool i would like ti have in my toolbox just case i need it..im gonna also be hitting my plants with a 4 hit combo of SAR inducers to make my plants immune system like a sheet of steal lol..i had a very bad year last year due to bud rot so im really looking forward to this year..i found a company that sales a few things from kelp and it sounds very interresting stuff..i post a bit below let me know what u think about this stuff

SEA BLEND
Sea Blend is a blend of powerful microorganisms, seaweed meal, granular humate and rock potash. Sea Blend conditions the soil, breaking down organic matter, supplying humate and the binding properties of potash. This allows nutrients to be readily absorbed by plants.

Sea Blend is applied in the spring and fall or at the time of repotting or transplanting at a rate of 1 lb. per 100 sq.ft..
SEAWEED MEAL
Seaweed Meal is a pure dried ground seaweed. It is a soil conditioner and should be worked into the soil. As the granules breakdown, they will return depleted minerals to the soil. Seaweed Meal will feed and stimulate helpful organisms that digest organic material and improve the quality and texture of the soil. As the micronutrients become available to the plant roots, they will improve the overall plant metabolism and stiffen resistance to disease and pest damage.

Seaweed Meal is applied in the spring and fall or at the time of repotting or transplanting at a rate of 1 lb. per 100 sq.ft..
COMPOST ACCLERATOR
Compost Accelerator is a blend of billions of microbes, bran, seaweed, and humate that you add to your compost pile. The powerful microorganisms, when supplied with the rich diet of seaweed meal, will quickly breakdown organic matter into rich humus. The humate with its chelating qualities ensure the nutrients are in a form readily usable by plants. This product is an organic accelerator and should be used in conjunction with normal composting practices. 

Compost Accelerator is sprinkled in a compost bin or pile at 2 Tbsp. per 4 cu. ft..
SEASTART-PGR
SeaStart-PGR (0-4-4)
SeaStart was developed at the request of growers who wanted a seaweed product with enhanced vitamin supplements. SeaStart begins with a true liquid seaweed extract that has been condensed to a level many times more powerful than our regular extract. To this we add Vitamin B1, B2, B5, B6, Vitamin C, Folic Acid, Biotin and Pantothenic Acid. SeaStart is diluted with water and applied as a soil soak or most effectively as a foliar spray.

SeaStart is mixed at rate of 1 tsp. per gallon of water, or 1 qt. per acre.
SEACOM-PRG
SeaCom-PGR (0-4-4)

SeaCom-PGR is a liquid plant growth regulator formulated to provide a high concentration (400 ppm) of the natural plant growth hormone, cytokinin. Cytokinin, combined with the diverse micronutrients in seaweed, leads to enhanced crop growth, increased yields, and healthier, more productive plants.

SeaCom is mixed at a rate of 1 tsp. per gallon of water.

none of these products cost more then 11$ and the seameal and sea blend is 5lb bags and they also have liquid sea weed and sea weed/fish
 

Kygiacomo!!!

AppAlachiAn OutLaW
I don't think Chemotherapy and Synthetic nutrients are comparable items. Matter of fact they're more like apples n bowling balls than like apples n oranges.

Also... think about what your saying as well...

"synthetics hinder microbes"

Umm... this is a myth!
Dry soul, causing huge swings in pH hinders microbes.
Also, if synth hinders the good microbes, it hinders the bad as well.

Healty plants are the result of the plant having everything it needs available to them when they need it.
Not growing styles.

Btw, I'm an outdoor soil guy.
Battled PM for the last 3-5 years.
I also had to step back and make the realization that I don't know as much as I need to. But I'm constantly learning.

same here man..after a few seasons of growing og kush and ever thing ppl said i could never grow with my humidty at 100% nearly during full flower..i had a few good years and didnt get no rot so i thought i knew everthing as well..then last year i got hit hard with bud rot and fungas gnats lost 70% of my plants to bud rot..so i also had to humble up and listen to what others was haveing success with weather its some parts organic and someparts syntheics i dove head first into researching everthing that people was suggesting that worked for them..i then realized that i didnt know as much as i thought i did about growing plants the healthy way..im gonna try the 100% organic route on some my headstash plants but im also gonna amend soil with things like kelp,neem & karnaja meals and use neem & karnaja oils along with some prevention sprays..my commerical grows i smoke buds from everthing to test it out bc i will not slae it if i wont smoke it..i think alot of my issue was useing miracle grow soil and nutes..the miracle grow potting mix use to come with fungas gants flying out the bag when i opened it..i never thought that much about it just thought it was normal..ever year since 2012 i have lost 3-4 plants to fungas gnat larave..i never knew what they was till about 5 months ago when i seen a pic on here and i then realized that was why some my plants had (worms)..thats what me and my dad called them bc we had no ideal what they was,we just thought they was in the soil in the hills we grow in..they would tunnel into the main stalk and turn it into mush..now after its all been said and done,im glad that last years nite mare grow turned out like it did bc it got me to realize that i was never doing the correct things anyways..
 

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