Fungus gnats or WINGED ROOT APHIDS???

[DaytonaBeach83]

well after purchasing a batch of clones from a dispensary here in denver, i discovered i now have the two absolute worst cannabis pests, AT THE SAME FUCKING TIME…

winged root aphids + hemp russet mites = WTF???

seem only two strains have been affected by the HRM, but i'm treating everything as if it is…just did a root drench with insecticidal soap, an i'll be following that up with a hand wash of insecticidal soap, to physically remove all the mites from the plants…they're sitting in a 4% p-bomb right now, waiting till tomorrow morning to hand wash…i'm picking up a handheld steamer with the spray nozzle, an i'm going to hose the plants down once that gets here…from what i hear, it won't burn the leaves so long as u keep the steamer moving an not focused on one area for too long…

as for the winged RA, i have a kilo of OG biowar foliar pack on the way, gonna do two drenches at 2x strength, plus another p-bomb, an i will be steaming these plants as well…unfortunately, i'm two weeks into flowering right now…i thought my last run came out so shitty cuz of a combination of nute burn an deficiency (which didn't make much sense, given i know my pH is on point), till i realized it was the winged RA…i'm sure the HRM are having an effect, but as i said before, they seem to be isolated to only two strains, everything else shows no signs of damage…

i'm also picking up some forbid 4F here soon, as well as met 52 for inoculating the coco before i plant my clones in it…my hope is that i can knock out the HRM with the steam cleaner/hand wash combo, plus the forbid 4F as an added KO punch, an the double-strength OG biowar drenches, combined with met 52 pre-inoculation, should knock the winged RA out of commission…time will tell!!!

 

[Sluicebox]

your right both are terrible, sorry for your luck.

For what its worth I had HRM and knocked them back by flocking plant with dio earth via garden duster, left it on for a day or two then washed it off. Seriously kills the adult HRM's and the dead ones wash right off. You have to reapply to get the hatch. This works in early flower as well. Sounds like you plan on washing them anyway. Way less stress on plant than steam. Only other uneducated concern I have is adding anything that might mess up the OG Biowar. That on it's own is supposed to get rid of the RA's. Takes 2 weeks. However if you add something to your soil (?) that interferes with it you likely won't get good results, good luck to you in your fight.

 

[DONAJTHEIII]

well after purchasing a batch of clones from a dispensary here in denver, i discovered i now have the two absolute worst cannabis pests, AT THE SAME FUCKING TIME…

winged root aphids + hemp russet mites = WTF???

seem only two strains have been affected by the HRM, but i'm treating everything as if it is…just did a root drench with insecticidal soap, an i'll be following that up with a hand wash of insecticidal soap, to physically remove all the mites from the plants…they're sitting in a 4% p-bomb right now, waiting till tomorrow morning to hand wash…i'm picking up a handheld steamer with the spray nozzle, an i'm going to hose the plants down once that gets here…from what i hear, it won't burn the leaves so long as u keep the steamer moving an not focused on one area for too long…

as for the winged RA, i have a kilo of OG biowar foliar pack on the way, gonna do two drenches at 2x strength, plus another p-bomb, an i will be steaming these plants as well…unfortunately, i'm two weeks into flowering right now…i thought my last run came out so shitty cuz of a combination of nute burn an deficiency (which didn't make much sense, given i know my pH is on point), till i realized it was the winged RA…i'm sure the HRM are having an effect, but as i said before, they seem to be isolated to only two strains, everything else shows no signs of damage…

i'm also picking up some forbid 4F here soon, as well as met 52 for inoculating the coco before i plant my clones in it…my hope is that i can knock out the HRM with the steam cleaner/hand wash combo, plus the forbid 4F as an added KO punch, an the double-strength OG biowar drenches, combined with met 52 pre-inoculation, should knock the winged RA out of commission…time will tell!!!

throw them out pop some seeds after through cleaning



Happy growing


hope this saves ya time and headaches

 

[Granger2]

OGBioWar contains the same fungus that is MET 52. -granger

 

[Sluicebox]

I was just talking to a Nice Elderly Lady about Root Aphids. She said,"Oh you just need to get some self rising flour and dust the plant and top dress the soil, as well as anywhere else they might be entering pots."(drain holes) "Till, but don't water it in" She then told me the aphids are attracted to the flour, eat it then the yeasts pop the bugs. She said her roses were infested this year and she applied this and all aphids were dead in 3 days. I'm a gonna try it while waiting for my Og Biowar to get here. She called it "Old Tennessee Mountain Remedy" Could you imagine if she's right and it's that easy?

 

[StankyBeamer]

OGBioWar contains the same fungus that is MET 52. -granger

Doesn't it have bti and endo and ecto mycos as well? If bti actually worked on the fg in michigan this would be a miracle product. Too bad it takes soap and chems to take out these bastards. All gmo corn in michigan from Monsanto produces bti naturally in the corn, so the shit is completely useless. I fought "RA" for the longest time after the actual aphids were long gone cuz everyone told me, "if mosquito dunks aren't killing your fg, they're not fg".

 

[Mikell]

I was just talking to a Nice Elderly Lady about Root Aphids. She said,"Oh you just need to get some self rising flour and dust the plant and top dress the soil, as well as anywhere else they might be entering pots."(drain holes) "Till, but don't water it in" She then told me the aphids are attracted to the flour, eat it then the yeasts pop the bugs. She said her roses were infested this year and she applied this and all aphids were dead in 3 days. I'm a gonna try it while waiting for my Og Biowar to get here. She called it "Old Tennessee Mountain Remedy" Could you imagine if she's right and it's that easy?

I'd bet dollars to dime she was talking about green peach aphids or the like.

And unless things are rapidly different down there, self rising only has baking soda and powder.

 

[Weezard]

I was just talking to a Nice Elderly Lady about Root Aphids. She said,"Oh you just need to get some self rising flour and dust the plant and top dress the soil, as well as anywhere else they might be entering pots."(drain holes) "Till, but don't water it in" She then told me the aphids are attracted to the flour, eat it then the yeasts pop the bugs. She said her roses were infested this year and she applied this and all aphids were dead in 3 days. I'm a gonna try it while waiting for my Og Biowar to get here. She called it "Old Tennessee Mountain Remedy" Could you imagine if she's right and it's that easy?

Yep, baking powder.
There is no "yeast" in self rising flour.

And as far as i know aphids do not have the mouth parts needed to eat flour. They pierce plant stems and drink sap.
Not saying that flour will do nothing because I have never tried it.
Might be a PH down effect, ah dunno.

Whatever the mechanism, the bottom line is, it should not hurt.

I say, give it a shot. If it does work, we will figure out how, and capitalize on that, yah?

Aloha,
Weeze

 

[Sluicebox]

Thought I'd toss in an update. Orthene/Riptide dunk worked, knock on wood. I need to tell you what I learned about the burn though. The larger plants did not get transplanted and showed no burn for first week. I was watering with straight ph adjusted water for that week. As soon as I added food they burned. It was fairly severe, but have since recovered and are doing nicely. As for the smaller plants, they were transplanted within two days of treatment. They suffered minimal burn as I was only giving them water with their new soil. They did however show the burn only after I added thrive to the water. That said I highly recommend a transplant to the next pot size up after treatment and stay with just water. One might try a mild foliar feed on a couple to test, any burn should show in a day or two. Be safe, seriously.

 

[Sluicebox]

Well one week later and still no sign of RA's however the burn continues to creep up the plant. Leaves show signs of Potassium or Cal/Mag def and turning brown and dropping. No need to lolly pop as pretty much nothing left but buds now. At day 25 flower lucky to find many buds larger than my thumb. Tonight I panicked and searched deficiencies. Found Potassium def looks like my problem and that wood ash has a good amount of readily available K. I top dressed 5 plants as a test and watered in. Only then did it occur to me to test the runoff from pots. This runoff was from earlier tonight before adding the wood ash. Tested 6.5 ph. So now I likely raised my ph too high, locking out even more nutes.

Only the leaves that showed signs of burning after treatment have been falling. All new growth remains, however the tips appear to be burnt and new growth is slow. I don't mind that so much on older leaves but when they are on a bud they usually recede back into the bud causing rot near the end.

Other newb mistake I just caught was my pilot stays on in the dark period and room remains near 1500 ppm while they sleep. This was never an issue before when I ran fans differently. So I'm going to close valve at lights out and relight pilot when lights come on. Should just switch out burner for an electronic one I'm not using. Temp avg mid to high 80s and 65-70RH 1100-1500 co2. Nutes 1.5 ec.

I should have heeded the advice that if you have RA's, chuck everything, clean and start with fresh beans. This has been the absolute worst year for me in 20 easy. That's what happens when you grow only one strain that whole time. FTR Sno Cap is easy to grow, pest and mold resistant nearly immuned to them, wish I still had her. I'll finish the run but it will be laughable. If nothing else for a learning experience.

I did order a fresh pack of Bodhi's tonight. I have clones rooting and second room in 5 and 7gal pots now. Only issue there is I just noticed that the majority of room 2 have 3 blade leaves. Only one strain of the 3 in that room are doing this. Didn't know if that was because they are young and over coming stress or if the RA's hermed them.

Sorry for the long one here, just thought I'd throw it out there and see if anyone had any ideas. Thanks for your time. Happy Holidays to you and yours.

 

[Sluicebox]

I think that I answered my own question. Had to think about it and I imagine the salts and flushing from the treatment leached out the available K. It wasn't a burn that I was seeing but a deficiency. That would explain why it didn't show up right away as a burn would be overnight. I just figured that new roots got burned once I started feeding again, guess that was wrong. Be well.

 

[Miraculous Meds]

Hey sluice, what medium u in and what nutes are u using? Without knowing the answers to ur medium n nutes yet, id guess ph related causing deficiencies n burn. watch adding too much stuff, cause if im right, it can exasperate the prob. Also do ur own research to back it up, but im a believer in the 900ppm range for co2. Also 1 ec is more than plenty enough food, especially when battling stress problems, like u are currently. gl

Happy Holliday's to all.

 

[Sluicebox]

Soil, FF Ocean Forest, cut with some High 5 mix for texture. This last batch of FFOF was pretty dense and didn't drain well on it's own. Nutes I just switched back to Supernatural Bloom Terra and starting the Bud Blaster now. The Wood ash seemed to work overnight and frost is coming on thick and buds have really picked up. I did however spoon out all the ash I could see tonight as I was worried about having too much applied. I also started turning off co2 while they sleep. Temp 90F 75RH Co2 1200-1500 ppm 1040 ppm nutes 6.0 ph 65F. Day 29 flower but I'm gonna count it as day 25 due to all the stress. Besides they look ok for day 25 lol. Cola's are clearly evident and filling in quite frosty. Hairs are straight. I think I can bump up nutes now.

Higher heat takes higher humidity, higher Ec and co2? Quite tropical in there.

I noticed in there today that the leaves that dropped were all shaded heavily under the canopy due to the scrog nets. None of the ones in full light have dropped on any of the plants. Burnt tips and margins on older ones but younger are pointing up and frosty. I haven't seen a flier in a week or more and cards are clean. Allowing pots to dry out only water every other day and not a full on drench. Not allowing wilt but not over watering. Fans no longer blowing on plants but rather under canopy and near ceiling stirring up room. Leaves still move a little just enough so as not to be dead air around them.

Earlier in cycle lots of flushing caused over watering, some wilted on dry out. Plus I was running GH 3 part that I've never used before. I just switched back to Supernatural to finish this and then going all organic next run.

Thanks for your reply, hope this sheds some light on my issues.
R.

 

[RedBeardy5]

What I'm thinking is the delayed burn is from the systematic properties of Orthene. The clones I took off the treated mother even showed burn on the leaves 5 days later. I treated the mother not the clones if that tells you something.

 

[Sluicebox]

Is that how they looked burnt tips and margins or sides of leaves? Stuff worked though didn't it?

 

[bfree123]

Cleaning

Cleaning

Eclipse 420 what type of cleaning did you do for the room along with the dunks? Bleach? How strong? Thanks

 

[bfree123]

Eclipse!

Eclipse!

Could you explain what you did to clean the grow room? Should I spray around with the orthene and riptide? Or dilute bleach? Thanks a lot

 

[Sluicebox]

Ortho home defense works, kills on contact lasting protection. Only reason no one soaks with it is the systemic properties. I'd bleach first to kill any molds, then ortho. I spray the outsides and bottoms of pots with it as well before transplanting. Orthene/Riptide would kill on contact but if you miss one they are back. You probably wouldn't want to use the Ortho where the plant may touch the walls but it is excellent in any cracks or possible entry points. Ask others first you, may have to PM Eclipse. Maybe Granger will chime in.

 

[Granger2]

Not sure what happened to my post from last night that Eclipse hasn't posted in a few months. Most insecticides would work for a room "cleaning." That includes things like Neem, Asasol, or Insecticide soap. Notice I didn't say dish soap. Not all soaps are equal at killing pests. For killing pests on painted surfaces like I have, I'd probably use neem w/cocowet. If you have a steamer, that'll whoop 'em good, and their little eggs, too. Good luck. -granger

 

[I wood]

It seemed easier to me to just repaint the room with kilz primer, it has a mold inhibiting ingredient and the newly painted walls are more reflective than dirty ones.