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From the TSW 2000 to the FCE 3000
- Thread starter Sampas92
- Start date
Sampas92
Just newbin
Thanks gizmo, its good to hear that from all of you 
The girls ready for the night after some foliars, even the Gorila.
The Rocky today is a bit with that crashed look.
i foliar them Botryprot by Proteco and Ekisan by Trabe..
The Broty is advertised as good to use directly against the buds 2 weeks prior to harvest due to how much time it takes to degrade and is supose to not change the final outcome, but i guess its not true or everyone would use it. Either way the 3 older girls get only the botry, i want to see if the pistils in the Gorila brown after it.
I dont have any mold, but is also good for prevention.
The Rocky and the Coco get the botry mixed with the eki, its funny how hard is to shake the excess of her because how flexible she is from top to bottom, she is thick but very bendy, would be fun if i had played a bit with some lst with her. I like how big she looks compared to the older girls, maybe the fix of the environment sid her good since she is one week, one week and half younger.
The eki smells like apple juice wich is good, talking in smells, the Gorila smel reminds me of something sour, onions come to mind, me like it. The Mazarilla is fruity and is getting a bit more sweet. The Killer i cant describe it but smells good. The Rocky smells acidic
Peace
The girls ready for the night after some foliars, even the Gorila.
The Rocky today is a bit with that crashed look.
i foliar them Botryprot by Proteco and Ekisan by Trabe..
The Broty is advertised as good to use directly against the buds 2 weeks prior to harvest due to how much time it takes to degrade and is supose to not change the final outcome, but i guess its not true or everyone would use it. Either way the 3 older girls get only the botry, i want to see if the pistils in the Gorila brown after it.
I dont have any mold, but is also good for prevention.
The Rocky and the Coco get the botry mixed with the eki, its funny how hard is to shake the excess of her because how flexible she is from top to bottom, she is thick but very bendy, would be fun if i had played a bit with some lst with her. I like how big she looks compared to the older girls, maybe the fix of the environment sid her good since she is one week, one week and half younger.
The eki smells like apple juice wich is good, talking in smells, the Gorila smel reminds me of something sour, onions come to mind, me like it. The Mazarilla is fruity and is getting a bit more sweet. The Killer i cant describe it but smells good. The Rocky smells acidic
Peace
Sampas92
Just newbin
First tea..the best i could get in the chinos was a filter cloth, i guess it will do the same..2 handfulls of castings, a some vulcanic rock, Kalong palm tree ashes and Powder and a pinch of epsoms..the air pump is weak but i guess us a matter of leaving it brewing a bit more time..
Peace
Peace
Sampas92
Just newbin
Yes and no Alice..
in all of the big girls i mixed 20% coco, next time will be 30% mixed with biobizz soil and yes organic nutrients.. the small pot is around 70% coco and biobizz soil and organic nutes..that one is the experiment. The nutes are dry mixed but i have biobizz liquid too..
Peace
Sampas92
Just newbin
Now that im not workibg and have more time..
IM A NEWB SO EVERYTHING IM DOING, DONT
Just to clarify myself..
Everything i check online it was a nono using organic nutrients with just coco. Inert material, cation exchange, ability to hold microbial life, how things flush in it, ph, salty and bufering etc etc
But since adding 20% or 30% to a peat soil to help in aereation etc (tip given to me by explosive) i wondered if a mix with only 10/15% with peat and a bit of castings and the rest coco would be good.
The peat and castings would bring that microbial life, and a more supportive medium for nutrients (i supose) and have a good aereated soil and more dryish soil wich would make me do more waterings, wich is more oxigen in the root zone (if not overwater).
The nutrients i mixed in the coco experience are dry nutrients from GuanoKalong, i used the Complete mix (advertised enough for the whole grow) and the Powder mix wich is a slow release fert proper for flowering stronger in P. The K they provide by the Palm tree ashes (wich i didnt mix)
Also i added neem flour, basalt dust, gypsum and a bit of vulcanic rock, mixed very good with the Biobizz soil and then mixed all with the coco, oh i almost forgot, mycos too and later on an handfull of castings.
I have Biobizz nutrients for backup since i never used the Kalong ones
That small aeropot that you see is the coco experience.
Indeed is much more lighter and it doesnt become a hard brick like Biobizz soil.
Now if you wonder why using a pot that promotea dryness with a mix that also promotes it, is because the plan was wick water.
The logic is, there is a thread here that explains on how to build a wick pot and they use fabric pots inside buckets with holes on the side to evaporate. I dont have fabric pots but i have that aeropot.
Now im waiting for the girl to get a bit bigger and to have a more established root zone able to hold a more moisture mix a put the pot on top of a tuperware with water, leaving a gap between the water and the bottom of the pot (wich is perlite to help the suppose wick that i want) and an air stone too.
Why to wick?Because coco drys fast and promotes more work and im lazy. Also those capilary beautifull fuzzy roots. Also the guys that have a proper wick system have beautifull plants.
So im just a newb, doing something that is not advisable, trying to have a bit of a bunch of different worlds, but think with me, if that shit wicks good, and have a proper moisture level because of the pot and the coco, how better can an "organic" soil ask for?
A moist soil in proper levels promotes a bunch of goos things, microbial life, good uptake of water.. i didnt forget about the bad ones, but i have something to battle them now.
The girl is like this now, borned in January 29. I guess she should be a bit bigger, the green is not the best, but also i dont have a proper environenment for her regarding lights or more importantly rh and also im learning how to maintain that thing moist but not too much or too less wich is new for me. Probably is one more for the bad statistics, but would be fun if it work.
Btw the tea is just also to try, experiment, having fun, learn a thing or two here and theres, for example it should have some carbohydrates, i didnt have molasses so i didnt put anything.
Peace
Sampas92
Just newbin
So since i am learning how to use the FCE light i was wondering about DLI and a bunch of other things and i remember Mars saying something in the Explosive thread regarding the dimmer not being by % of power but ppfd. I searched for it and yes i was right.
So i message Mars and ask him if it knows what is the distance used to get the ppfd values in the deamer, at least for my light the FCE 3000, the response was 18 inches, so im getting somewhere.
I know DLI is "useless" in a cannopy that is not even.
Im wondering how useless it is when some girls are more columnar, taller, shorter, bushy etc etc..for example the side branches of the Mazarilla are closer in height to the main cannopy, the ones of the Killer are way shorter compared to her main cannopy, she is more columnar.
In my mind the Mazarilla should have an DLI higher all around than the Killer. If that is true, how that would translate in them if i was giving them too much light?
I wonder because the Mazarilla is always more crashed all around than the Killer and i only see the top of the Killer droop a bit while the bottom branches are still praying.
The Gorila is in a more advanced state of flowering so if i can be giving the other too much this one can be happy about it.
For example the Rocky was going good and after lowering the light she is more crashed, she looks similar to thw Mazarilla and she is also a more bushy not so tall girl.
Like F-e said a few post earlier, the organic soil reached that limit of feeding the girls for the light they are getting.
All of this to reach the conclusion that even if the Killer looks better and never crashed like the Gorila did a few weeks back and how the Mazarilla looks now.
So i found a calculator online and for 750ppfd (where the dim is) i get an DLI of 48 to 18 hours of light, but thats is at 45cm distance, the 18 inches. The Killer is at 50cm, Mazarilla around 55 and the Rocky almost 60 also she is one week and a few days younger than the others.
What i want to do is to use the Mazilla to guide me. She is not much shorter than the Killer but have a more homogeneous cannopy all around.
Than it comes to my mind that they are autos. Should i take that in consideration? I dunno but i guess that is difficult to figure it out.
Maybe this seams a clusterfuck of thougths but in my noob mind is logical and now im wondering how much i should give them, i guess i will spent the night thinking about it and tomorrow i hope i reach some conclusion.
Either way the dimming metric and the testing distance is a good guideline that i needed.
sorry for the rant clusterfuck
Peace
So i message Mars and ask him if it knows what is the distance used to get the ppfd values in the deamer, at least for my light the FCE 3000, the response was 18 inches, so im getting somewhere.
I know DLI is "useless" in a cannopy that is not even.
Im wondering how useless it is when some girls are more columnar, taller, shorter, bushy etc etc..for example the side branches of the Mazarilla are closer in height to the main cannopy, the ones of the Killer are way shorter compared to her main cannopy, she is more columnar.
In my mind the Mazarilla should have an DLI higher all around than the Killer. If that is true, how that would translate in them if i was giving them too much light?
I wonder because the Mazarilla is always more crashed all around than the Killer and i only see the top of the Killer droop a bit while the bottom branches are still praying.
The Gorila is in a more advanced state of flowering so if i can be giving the other too much this one can be happy about it.
For example the Rocky was going good and after lowering the light she is more crashed, she looks similar to thw Mazarilla and she is also a more bushy not so tall girl.
Like F-e said a few post earlier, the organic soil reached that limit of feeding the girls for the light they are getting.
All of this to reach the conclusion that even if the Killer looks better and never crashed like the Gorila did a few weeks back and how the Mazarilla looks now.
So i found a calculator online and for 750ppfd (where the dim is) i get an DLI of 48 to 18 hours of light, but thats is at 45cm distance, the 18 inches. The Killer is at 50cm, Mazarilla around 55 and the Rocky almost 60 also she is one week and a few days younger than the others.
What i want to do is to use the Mazilla to guide me. She is not much shorter than the Killer but have a more homogeneous cannopy all around.
Than it comes to my mind that they are autos. Should i take that in consideration? I dunno but i guess that is difficult to figure it out.
Maybe this seams a clusterfuck of thougths but in my noob mind is logical and now im wondering how much i should give them, i guess i will spent the night thinking about it and tomorrow i hope i reach some conclusion.
Either way the dimming metric and the testing distance is a good guideline that i needed.
sorry for the rant clusterfuck
Peace
Sampas92
Just newbin
600ppfd for 18 hours = 38.88, its not 40 but...
since the measurment guideline is 45cm i have a cushion from 5 to 10cm of "safety" and even tho i im not 100% sure i take a guess and dim the light for tomorrow.
Lets see, i clearly notice a more intense purple in them, more droopiness and oddness and paleness during the second day (today) since the change in the lights, so i hope in 3 days they all look a bit better, maybe i foliar them tomorrow with a bit of seaweed, since they are still in beggining of flowering, dunno, need to think more, fuck, i like this
now im deffiently going, need to sleep to be working in 5 hours, good night for whoever is for the night and good day for whoever is for the day
Peace
since the measurment guideline is 45cm i have a cushion from 5 to 10cm of "safety" and even tho i im not 100% sure i take a guess and dim the light for tomorrow.
Lets see, i clearly notice a more intense purple in them, more droopiness and oddness and paleness during the second day (today) since the change in the lights, so i hope in 3 days they all look a bit better, maybe i foliar them tomorrow with a bit of seaweed, since they are still in beggining of flowering, dunno, need to think more, fuck, i like this
now im deffiently going, need to sleep to be working in 5 hours, good night for whoever is for the night and good day for whoever is for the day
Peace
Sampas92
Just newbin
And they stayed in coma for the day, i just notice a slight less crash apearence by the end of the day in the more droopy ones, Killer like always dont want anything with droop, crashes, comas whatever.
They were feeling quite light, Rocky more, and gave them the tea. It was in a "cold" place, no carbos in it, weakish pump, i dunno if i did a proper one on this 24h, but i dont see any foam, so thays a point down. At least it will have the dry Kalong nutes properly dissolved.
2L for everyone, i ph it since i was getting high 11, average of 150~350ml of run off. I also take note how much weight every one got after the watering, i will follow in the next days to see how much they loose.
Peace
They were feeling quite light, Rocky more, and gave them the tea. It was in a "cold" place, no carbos in it, weakish pump, i dunno if i did a proper one on this 24h, but i dont see any foam, so thays a point down. At least it will have the dry Kalong nutes properly dissolved.
2L for everyone, i ph it since i was getting high 11, average of 150~350ml of run off. I also take note how much weight every one got after the watering, i will follow in the next days to see how much they loose.
Peace
Sampas92
Just newbin
2nd day since the change in the light.
Right before lights down the Mazarilla is still crashing hard, even tho during this 2nd day she looked a pinch better.
Like always the Killer is the happiest and even in her i notice the top leafs not crashing like before the change.
I look at Maza and the younger Rocky and i think i see too much light and at this stage dimming down from 60 to 50 looks wrong and right at the same time fo me, beggining to flower, others finishing stretch.
But then my thinking travels amongst other possible things for this
Wack ph at roots? Why not in every one of them since everything is the same, genetics?Bad mixing?
Lack any kind of nutrient? I guess so but, wich one? The girls are dark and new growth presents a bit of burned tips, no fade at bottom leafs so nitrogen isnt it, even tho the burned tips only appeared after the extreme dose of calmag, wich is a problem that i read online from a few years until now that is calmag and the nitrogen issues on flowering stage..
The new growth looks a lighter green, nutrient related or light related? Both since they go hand i hand together.
Than i wonder even more and think about any sort of pest in the rootzone but i dont think there isnt any pest that could cause the same problem at the same stage in different genetics.
Over or under water, i never felt the girls flopy like when lacking water, but i dont trully know how overwatered they would look but in this grow i didnt gave them that much water.
When the light was at 70cm distance and 75% and they were younger they looked better, i increased the power incrementaly day by day and things got worse but they were a bit older, and in these autos the stage are fast and in a few days a lot can change.
Im tempted at dimming the light down from 60 to 55 but im reluctant since i see other growers with leds and similar or the same lights giving more power at this stage and at the same distance, some even a bit more closer. I know its stupid compare things with so many variables envolved, im not, but i have those examples in consideration, i need too.
Backup with biobloom to force them somehow and try to compensate the excessive light, if there is in fact one? And what about the Kalong nutrients were both of them are advertised on around 2 months of food where one is a complete for entire grow and the other flowering specific? Could i somehow wack the calculations and mix too much? How the girls would present themselves?
I have Atazyme wich is advertised to help in overfertilized soils, but in this critical stage of their life, how good or bad that would be? And how stupid would be to get nutrients out when the girls need them for a more intense light?
My head is tired today and i need to rest, but this rant helps the thinking process, im sorry guys but i need to do it.
Also i think i need to dim down the power, even if it seems against to what is normally done at this stage.
DLI going from 38 to 35, in numbers seems something so small and insignificant, even more with all the other variables in play ( canopy not even, different genetics, auto genes, etc etc) but also seems logical due to being 18h of light in an "organic" system that have its limitations.
There is something that is overing in my mind that is being that there isnt always fresh air circulating the tent, im not obeing that rule of the change of air for x ammount of times per y ammount of time and after i did it the girls got better, a few weeks ago
But now, how bad can it be running only when the rh is above certain % and being off when is in proper %?
I dont think that could be it because they seem better or worst depending on the day and the extraction is like that 24h/7 to maintain the proper temps and rh for them that is 24c to 50~55%, never above 58% or under 45 and temps never above 25.5 or under 20c, also the circulation fan is always on, it doesnt bring fresh air but the air is not stagnant either
Well i will sleep on the subject and see if i wake up with some kind of eureka/clarity moment. I could procastinate and let the subconcious think about it, but normally it takes some time and autos dont have much of it.
Peace
Right before lights down the Mazarilla is still crashing hard, even tho during this 2nd day she looked a pinch better.
Like always the Killer is the happiest and even in her i notice the top leafs not crashing like before the change.
I look at Maza and the younger Rocky and i think i see too much light and at this stage dimming down from 60 to 50 looks wrong and right at the same time fo me, beggining to flower, others finishing stretch.
But then my thinking travels amongst other possible things for this
Wack ph at roots? Why not in every one of them since everything is the same, genetics?Bad mixing?
Lack any kind of nutrient? I guess so but, wich one? The girls are dark and new growth presents a bit of burned tips, no fade at bottom leafs so nitrogen isnt it, even tho the burned tips only appeared after the extreme dose of calmag, wich is a problem that i read online from a few years until now that is calmag and the nitrogen issues on flowering stage..
The new growth looks a lighter green, nutrient related or light related? Both since they go hand i hand together.
Than i wonder even more and think about any sort of pest in the rootzone but i dont think there isnt any pest that could cause the same problem at the same stage in different genetics.
Over or under water, i never felt the girls flopy like when lacking water, but i dont trully know how overwatered they would look but in this grow i didnt gave them that much water.
When the light was at 70cm distance and 75% and they were younger they looked better, i increased the power incrementaly day by day and things got worse but they were a bit older, and in these autos the stage are fast and in a few days a lot can change.
Im tempted at dimming the light down from 60 to 55 but im reluctant since i see other growers with leds and similar or the same lights giving more power at this stage and at the same distance, some even a bit more closer. I know its stupid compare things with so many variables envolved, im not, but i have those examples in consideration, i need too.
Backup with biobloom to force them somehow and try to compensate the excessive light, if there is in fact one? And what about the Kalong nutrients were both of them are advertised on around 2 months of food where one is a complete for entire grow and the other flowering specific? Could i somehow wack the calculations and mix too much? How the girls would present themselves?
I have Atazyme wich is advertised to help in overfertilized soils, but in this critical stage of their life, how good or bad that would be? And how stupid would be to get nutrients out when the girls need them for a more intense light?
My head is tired today and i need to rest, but this rant helps the thinking process, im sorry guys but i need to do it.
Also i think i need to dim down the power, even if it seems against to what is normally done at this stage.
DLI going from 38 to 35, in numbers seems something so small and insignificant, even more with all the other variables in play ( canopy not even, different genetics, auto genes, etc etc) but also seems logical due to being 18h of light in an "organic" system that have its limitations.
There is something that is overing in my mind that is being that there isnt always fresh air circulating the tent, im not obeing that rule of the change of air for x ammount of times per y ammount of time and after i did it the girls got better, a few weeks ago
But now, how bad can it be running only when the rh is above certain % and being off when is in proper %?
I dont think that could be it because they seem better or worst depending on the day and the extraction is like that 24h/7 to maintain the proper temps and rh for them that is 24c to 50~55%, never above 58% or under 45 and temps never above 25.5 or under 20c, also the circulation fan is always on, it doesnt bring fresh air but the air is not stagnant either
Well i will sleep on the subject and see if i wake up with some kind of eureka/clarity moment. I could procastinate and let the subconcious think about it, but normally it takes some time and autos dont have much of it.
Peace
Sampas92
Just newbin
So i did dimed down the light from 60 to 55 for today.
The Maza stretched 4 cm since the first dim down of the light, the leafs were a bit more perky today, but after 12 hours of light she drops until total crash after lights out, no resin to be seen for now, tops are really light mate green.
The Rocky since younger is still in a more hard stretch stage and will end up being the biggest girl in height and width of them all, the Killer is not the tallest anymore since the Maza and this one are all the same height now, same pale mate green, purple also, no resin also for now
The Killer was happy from lights on to off, wich is an improvement from the past days, she is showing resin since 3 days ago. Alot of purple too like the others, no mate green but a bit pale in the top. This pic is the perfect example of what i was saying about DLI and the difference between the more columnar or bushier girls, looking at it i guess it matter most im the back than the killer in the front
The Gorila is getting some brown pistils, its getting closer it seems. Those kinda bruises in the leaf showed today and yesterday i was feeling the same leafs but i was not harsh with them. She smells onion or garlic, something sour or close to it, i love it, it fills my mouth by just smelling it. Also tbis girl made my jaw hit the ground because from yesterday to today the weight of the pot raise 0.5kg, how the fuck is that possible?
Yesterday i watered the Coco girl, saturated the pot, and lay it in the plate with water without direct contact and she was happy all day foe the first time, i will leave it like this and see if she drowns or not
Since the Maza and the Rocky are still stretching a bit i can only dim down the light to 50 or raise it in height going from 50cm distance to whatever. I dimmed down to 50 for tomorrow and maintained the height.
Also iv been wondering how coincidence it is for them to all show the harsh look in a pre flowering stage and always starting to droop hard after 12 hours of light.
Peace
The Maza stretched 4 cm since the first dim down of the light, the leafs were a bit more perky today, but after 12 hours of light she drops until total crash after lights out, no resin to be seen for now, tops are really light mate green.
The Rocky since younger is still in a more hard stretch stage and will end up being the biggest girl in height and width of them all, the Killer is not the tallest anymore since the Maza and this one are all the same height now, same pale mate green, purple also, no resin also for now
The Killer was happy from lights on to off, wich is an improvement from the past days, she is showing resin since 3 days ago. Alot of purple too like the others, no mate green but a bit pale in the top. This pic is the perfect example of what i was saying about DLI and the difference between the more columnar or bushier girls, looking at it i guess it matter most im the back than the killer in the front
The Gorila is getting some brown pistils, its getting closer it seems. Those kinda bruises in the leaf showed today and yesterday i was feeling the same leafs but i was not harsh with them. She smells onion or garlic, something sour or close to it, i love it, it fills my mouth by just smelling it
. Also tbis girl made my jaw hit the ground because from yesterday to today the weight of the pot raise 0.5kg, how the fuck is that possible?Yesterday i watered the Coco girl, saturated the pot, and lay it in the plate with water without direct contact and she was happy all day foe the first time, i will leave it like this and see if she drowns or not
Since the Maza and the Rocky are still stretching a bit i can only dim down the light to 50 or raise it in height going from 50cm distance to whatever. I dimmed down to 50 for tomorrow and maintained the height.
Also iv been wondering how coincidence it is for them to all show the harsh look in a pre flowering stage and always starting to droop hard after 12 hours of light.
Peace
Sampas92
Just newbin
Gorila leafs getting funky, also already some amber trichs, everyday a few more pistils brown up, she is not a very resinous girl, but i dunno if i give her what she needed at the right moment but i feel she is resin a slight bit everyday
Rocky and Maza didnt look much better today with the light at 50, but the Rocky is now the tallest girl in the tent and is still going, even tho they are still going they are hugely stressed
The Killer today was perky all day long until lights out, and into 3 hours light of she is still praying, seems to be she will be sticky. If i didnt touch them, how could be there amber trichs already?
On the other hand, since i saturated the Coco experiment the girl perk up and stayed perky and is growing, good, so i was underwatering here, i should have make it much more wet since the start, lesson learned. I like how she looks compared to how wet the soil feels in my fingers., very soft also
Regarding the stressed girls i dunno how to proceed.. i understand how lowering the light power or getting it far help them, not driving them so hard, but how much is only the light?
I wonder rootbound? They look so stressed, so crashed, so pale and purple, the stems of the leafs are contracting so much and so stiff in the same position that i wonder if they will ever go back to normal?
I understand how leds drive the girls hard but they look over and under fed at the same time i think, paleness, burnish tips, purple. Rocky for example have the serrations darker than the middle of the leafs, purple petiole, the purple goes up in the finger, mate appearence and contracting the leaf down most in the petiole area, to the touch they feel soft, the lower leafs are much less afected
I wonder if calmag would help, but the more i feed it the burned tips progress faster and they dont seem to improve that much, so whats missing?i will try some algamic in the next watering to see if anything changes.
I will raise the light 10cm, from 50cm to 60cm distance and will power up from 50 to 60 for tomorrow. If they dont look less stressed im going to start to extract the air 24/7 not giving 2 fucks to how rh is and see if anything changes
Also in 2 days they all drank around 800ml to 1l, tomorrow i will water them, try algamic to see if helps, dont think biogrow would help but i wonder about biobloom, even though the ashes are strong, i dunno.
Peace
Rocky and Maza didnt look much better today with the light at 50, but the Rocky is now the tallest girl in the tent and is still going, even tho they are still going they are hugely stressed
The Killer today was perky all day long until lights out, and into 3 hours light of she is still praying, seems to be she will be sticky. If i didnt touch them, how could be there amber trichs already?
On the other hand, since i saturated the Coco experiment the girl perk up and stayed perky and is growing, good, so i was underwatering here, i should have make it much more wet since the start, lesson learned. I like how she looks compared to how wet the soil feels in my fingers., very soft also
Regarding the stressed girls i dunno how to proceed.. i understand how lowering the light power or getting it far help them, not driving them so hard, but how much is only the light?
I wonder rootbound? They look so stressed, so crashed, so pale and purple, the stems of the leafs are contracting so much and so stiff in the same position that i wonder if they will ever go back to normal?
I understand how leds drive the girls hard but they look over and under fed at the same time i think, paleness, burnish tips, purple. Rocky for example have the serrations darker than the middle of the leafs, purple petiole, the purple goes up in the finger, mate appearence and contracting the leaf down most in the petiole area, to the touch they feel soft, the lower leafs are much less afected
I wonder if calmag would help, but the more i feed it the burned tips progress faster and they dont seem to improve that much, so whats missing?i will try some algamic in the next watering to see if anything changes.
I will raise the light 10cm, from 50cm to 60cm distance and will power up from 50 to 60 for tomorrow. If they dont look less stressed im going to start to extract the air 24/7 not giving 2 fucks to how rh is and see if anything changes
Also in 2 days they all drank around 800ml to 1l, tomorrow i will water them, try algamic to see if helps, dont think biogrow would help but i wonder about biobloom, even though the ashes are strong, i dunno.
Peace
Sampas92
Just newbin
Im on to something.
in 2 days they lost 1kg so i water the Maza with 2l, 2kg
I antecipated just a bit of run off, i was right.
I measured the ph (thank you exploziv ) it is in 9's, pen and drops. I figure the Rocky and Gori will also be like that but i will see the Killer too and flush the ones that need it.
peace :Tiphat:
in 2 days they lost 1kg so i water the Maza with 2l, 2kg
I antecipated just a bit of run off, i was right.
I measured the ph (thank you exploziv ) it is in 9's, pen and drops. I figure the Rocky and Gori will also be like that but i will see the Killer too and flush the ones that need it.
peace :Tiphat:
Bro! How are those plants alive? Getting ph 9+ back is crazy. How you got up to those crazy ph? Hope u manage to get them better, I wouldn't have expected any plants to live at that ph. Careful at getting too much of those minerals in the soil available at one time!
What a detailed grow record! 
Fitzera
Well-known member
Finished measuring
Killer Ph in 6.6, out 9.4
Maza 6.5, 9.5
Rocky 6.4, 9.3
Gori 6.1, 9.65
So everyone is fucked, going to spend the next hours flushing the girls and no nutrients whatsoever to see what they need that is not in the soil.
Peace
Yikes, best of luck getting them back on track! Would be a shame to lose them
