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bounty29's New and Improved 150w Cabinet

G

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how much did the ingredients for that particular tea cost bounty? i was reading vonfornes thread on organic teas and it sounds like something i would like to do in future for my girls.
 

bounty29

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Molasses - under $5 at Price Chopper
Earth Worm Castings - I had to buy a huge bag of it so that cost more than I hoped to spend. 30lb bag for $20~
Liquid Karma - $20 for 1qt
High N Guano - $5 for 1kg (2.2lbs)
High P Guano - $15 for 5lbs
Powdered Kelp - I should've gotten liquid kelp, but I forgot to grab that on my last trip to the hydro store. I don't like going there a lot so I just got this at a local nursery. $15 for 5lbs

I have enough of this stuff to make teas for a few years, because I don't need to make more than 1 gallon of tea at a time.
 

bounty29

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Ok so... I'm extremely disappointed with how my plants look. I don't think I'm ready to go the organic tea route, I need to get my basic growing skills down first. If I had more room to play around with I would definitely keep at it, but for now I'm going to put the teas on hold and go back to PBP. If you look at my last grow, my plants looked similar to what the current ones do. Then, about a week after giving them PBP, they looked fantastic. That worked for me, so I'm going to stick with that. It sucks, I was looking forward to doing teas and stuff, but PBP is almost organic, right?

What I plan on doing from here is just using PBP, LK, and then at the end of flower flushing with molasses. The sour diesel is still saturated, but it should be ready to be watered tomorrow or the next day. The seedlings were fed a veg tea yesterday, so I'll water them with plain water for the next watering, and then start them on the PBP. I think the next time I water the SD I'll give it a PBP mix. I hope I'm not letting anyone down, I just want my plants to look healthy and be happy, and right now I think this is the best way to do it.

This is what I'm talking about...

11908Plant_1-2-med.jpg


and then 7 days later, after I started the PBP feedings...

11908Group_Shot_Day_37-med.jpg


THESE ARE NOT PICTURES OF THIS GROW, THEY ARE MY LAST ONE
 
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bounty29

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Alright, I gave them all a feeding this morning when lights came on. I think they'll respond well.

1 gallon bubbled tap water (114ppm and 7.6ph)
15ml PBP
15ml Liquid Karma

That came to 1000ppm (.5 conversion) and 5.7ph
25 drops of ph up brought it to 6.1ph

Between the five seed plants and the SD clone, I used about 1/3 of a gallon. Watered until a few drops came out the bottom and then stopped, I don't want to deal with waterlogged plants again.

Hopefully we'll see some results soon, I'm way behind schedule, which sucks because I just finished my last bag a few nights ago, and I don't think we're going to be buying any until harvest. (Except for maybe a little for the DMB concert.)
 
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nice grow bounty! cant wait to see them hit flower. way to go getting something to root in a peat pellet, lol. should be some quality smoke in a couple months. :joint:
 

HeadyPete

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Hey bounty!

Sorry to hear about your luck with the tea. Most important thing to do is get a crop done beginning to end, before getting fancy. You are on the right track. PBP is organic, but very acidic. You see it drop your water from 7.6 to 5.7. That's a big drop. I use BioBizz, my water is 8.1, I am using 3-4 drops/liter of down to get it right.

I'm thinking 6.1 is way too low ph. You will see lockout symptoms soon, probably brown crusty spots on leaf edges from lack of calcium, or fading leaves with dark veins from lack of magnesium (you may also get these problems if the ph is fine but you aren't giving enough of these secondaries. I add CalMax to my plants every feeding because the LUI are real hogs for these). Did you measure runoff from a plant? I don't think you will get waterlogged plants with all that perlite, so water till it flows out the bottom. A little or a lot, if your drainage is good it won't matter.

Water all plants with plain 7.0 water (unless a plant is looking particularly droopy and dull from too much watering), test runoff and adjust fert solution next time to compensate. Please post runoff ph so I can advise on correctly compensated ph.

Your ideal is 6.8 - 6.5 and below will start to give you trouble. I think this is the "root" of all your troubles haha :) It may not have been the teas, just the ph. You can try supplementing your pbp with some tea for extra flower feeding or kelp tea for K and lotsa micros, until you get comfy with just tea.

If the plants don't have an established rootball, the containers will stay wet for some time. If there is a good one, the pots are usually dry in two to three days. They still look small to me. Let them dry almost right out between waterings, till there is just a slight weight at the bottom of the pot. You can kinda swing the pot and tell if there is some weight at the bottom or not. You can also see when your plants start to get a bit droopy and soft, the leaves not so perky and stiff. This encourages the roots to grown down deep, to search for water, and this makes for healthy large rootballs.

btw, soil or soiless, it doesn't matter. 6.8 - 7.0 ph is what you want.

Keep us posted.
 

bounty29

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Alright, I'm pumped. Plants are looking a lot better, they've responded very well to the PBP+LK I gave them. They're still light green, but they've gotten a lot darker than they were before the most recent feeding. I have no idea what I did wrong with the teas, but I'm glad this did better.



I guess I didn't take any pictures of them when they looked real bad, but their leaves were extremely droopy, leaves looked a sickly yellow, and they just looke unhappy. I'm really glad they're looking better.

HeadyPete - 6.8-7? That seems high, I've been doing 6.5 until this last one, when I saw someone mention their PBP formula and they had good results with 6.1, I decided to try it out. Is this chart accurate? 6.8-7.0 looks pretty good on there...




I'm not sure what I want to do right now, I either want to transplant the seedlings into 2 liters, let them grow for a few days, then flip to 12/12, and once they show sex transplant the females into the black buckets. It's either that, or flip into 12/12 very soon w/o transplanting, and when the seedlings show sex put them into 2 liters and put the SD into the black bucket.

Like I mentioned before, I'm going to be leaving for 5 days during the third week of August, so I really need for stretch to be finished by then, which is why I want to go into 12/12 soon. Or maybe just go from the little cups to the black buckets when the seedlings show sex. Any opinions?
 
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bounty29

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Oh yeah, I went out for a hike yesterday, hoping to find a spot for next year, which I didn't, but I found some cool waterfalls. It was a good time, either way. I don't know how I'm gonna find a spot to grow next summer though, just don't know where to start.

11908falls_013.jpg
 

NOKUY

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Bounty my bro.....this is nice!

your def. gonna get it figured out.

I haven't got to read the whole thread yet, but will be.

How did you come up w/ your feeding regimine? (just be carefull of overdoing it early on)....u know this tho

man do yourself a real quik favor and throw sum duct tape around those clear cups...or get them transplanted into lightproof containers before it all turns green in the dirt.

thats all for now bro...I love the size of that cab, and u have it set up really well!

half the fun of a new cab is dialing everything in.
 

HeadyPete

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Hey bounty, nice chart there and it perfectly depicts why you want to be at 6.8. Ever so slightly acidic.

The last column shows that Mg and Ca drop off below 6.5 and that is the most common defs to come up. Brown crusty spots on leaf edges (Cal) and faded green leaves with dark green veins (Mg). Add to that some strains' voracious appetite for cal and mag, well you can see why it needs to be at 6.8. Soil will naturally tend down in ph from bio processes, as well.

Judging from your photos, 6.5 ain't working for you....calcium lock with those brown patches and faded green leaves (mag lock). Your yellowing lower leaves are from lack of N, probably from too weak tea you were feeding.

You need to get those plants out of clear containers. As I already said above, when light hits a root, it messes up it's functioning and ceases to work properly.

Cover those pots, get the ph right, work from there....

BTW, my girlz are all at 6.8 and they are lush and green and healthy, and it even corrected some defs (cal, mag) when I first received them. Lui is a pig for those two.

MynameStitch said:
Magnesium (Mg) - Micronutrient and Mobile Element

Magnesium is one of the easiest deficiencies to tell… the green veins along with the yellowness of the entire surrounding leave is a dead giveaway, but sometimes that’s not always the case here.

Problems with Magnesium being locked out by PH troubles

Light Acid Soils, soils with excessive potassium, calcium and or phosphorus


Soil

Magnesium gets locked out of soil growing at ph levels of 2.0-6.4
Magnesium is absorbed best in soil at a ph level of 6.5-9.1 . (Wouldn’t recommend having a ph of over 7.0 in soil) anything out of the ranges listed will contribute to a Magnesium deficiency.




Calcium (Ca) -Macro Nutrient and an Immobile element.

Calcium is another important element that helps the plants cell walls, cell division in making the plants stems, stalks, branches stronger, as well as contributing to root growth, mostly the newer root hairs, Calcium also helps enhancing the uptake of K in the the plants roots. Calcium moves really slow within the plant and tends to concentrate in roots and older growth.



When plants exhibit a Calcium deficiency the younger leaves are the first to show it as well as older leaves. The Leaf tips will die back, the tips may curl, and growth of the plant is stunted. The plant can show a weakness in the stems and branches, as well as a under developed root system that can lead to bacteria problems with roots dieing off. Having slow plant transpiration rates can aggravate the uptake of calcium. Make sure your soil isn’t very acidic, for calcium gets harder to be absorbed through acidic soils, Which leads to having a plant that is deficient in Calcium. The leaf tips, edges and new growth will or may turn a yellow/brown color that happen in spots and often surrounded by a sharp brown outlined edge and then the leaf tips die back. If too much calcium is given at an early stage of growth it can stunt the growth of your plants. Having to much of calcium will also flocculate when a concentrated form is combined with potassium. The parts affected by a calcium deficiency are the roots. Stem or petiole, young or old leaves.

Problems with Calcium being locked out by PH troubles

Very acidic soils with excessive potassium, dry and or wet soil. Lack of calcium in the soil may cause too acidic soil. This may cause to Mg or Iron deficiency or very slow stunted growth


Soil


Calcium gets locked out of soil growing at ph levels of 2.0- 6.4
Calcium is absorbed best in soil at a ph level of 6.5-9.1 (Wouldn’t recommend having a ph of over 7.0 in soil) anything out of the ranges listed will contribute to a
Calcium Deficiency.
 
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bounty29

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Alright, I checked on them last night and found the seedlings pretty dry. They're definitely ready for a transplant, I gave them one more watering though. I'm going to flip to extend this dark period from the four hours it's at now (4am-8am) to twelve hours, and begin 12/12 (4am to 4pm will be lights off.)

As I said, I fed them last night. I only used 1/3 of my feeding mixture last time, so I just let it bubble. It bubbled for a few days, and rose to 6.4ph, from 6.1

I used it as it was, and they've responded very well. When I mix up nutes in the future I'll PH them to 6.8, but this worked right now.

Anyways, here's how they look tonight. I'm really glad they're taking off again and looking healthy. Since they're so small, I'm going to lower my yield expectations. If they stretch to double their size right now, they'll be between 1' and 2' at the end of stretch. I'd be thrilled with 14g off each of them, but I'll aim for at least 8g per seedling.

The SD is slowly but surely recovering, all the new growth is looking healthier. I'm wary about transplanting the other ones, I don't want to run into problems again. I still haven't gotten the perlite for the mix. As soon as they show sex I'll be transplanting them, that should be less than 10 days away (I'd hope.)

They're all getting transplanted into the black bins, so I'll keep no more than 3 females from seed. If I get more than that, I'll just pick the ones that look the best to me.

Alright, here they are!





 

SoulShine

Active member
Hey Bounty,
I like what you got going here. Nice job on the cab, and that air cooled hood is the bomb! I'll be looking over your shoulder here, if you don't mind.
SoulShine
 
G

Guest

Bounty...took me a while to get back here but I am sure glad I did!! Plants are looking good bro.I love the pro series.I use it on my outdoor as well.You are getting some easy to understand advice from HeadyPete.I have ph problems when I start my indoor plants.The seedlings DO NOT like my water.I've got to perculate my water like you do Bounty.Bet they love it. I start my outdoor stuff in the keg cups.I let them get nice and tight in those cups then when I transplant they EXPLODE with growth.I am learning a lot here..peace BL p.s. got the B&H vents ordered.thx

Pete...keep the ph advice coming please :jump:
 
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HeadyPete

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Hey guys, glad I can help.

Looking real good bounty, that makes me smile.

Remember, periodically check your runoff and adjust your water/ferts to compensate. You may need to go higher with your water for your runoff to come out at 6.8, depends on the microbiology of your soil, ferts used, water used etc.....

Best way to find out is water well with 7.0 neutral plain water, test the runoff and find your adjustment factor from that.

Example: if you water with 7.0 and it comes out 6.4, then the factor is .6

If you adjust your water up to 7.4, the adjustment factor will bring your runoff to 6.8. Understand? Cool. :yes:

Always do ph last after adding and mixing all other substances. Test, add up or down, test again. Be sure to mix very well each time.

Yesterday I watered with 6.7 and my runoff was 7.0 - 7.1, a bit high, so next adjustment will be 6.5 to land at 6.8. Slightly acidic is ideal, but you will get nute lock faster from too low ph rather than too high.

You must keep testing as conditions change as biological action works in your soil. That will lower ph over time.

Guanos and fish meal ferts are acidic, and Pure Blend Pro is very acidic and fucking peeps up who are not watching their ph.

Take care and best of luck and success to everyone.

:joint:
 
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HeadyPete

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P.S. Chlorine has a ph of 11 so you can imagine how it affects the tap water ph. Bubbling will force it to leave the water as a gas (as will letting the water stand in an open container - just slower than bubbling) and the ph will drop when the chlorine is gone.

Distilled water tends to be acidic. I had some and it tested at 5.6 while some spring water tested at 8.1. They mixed together beautifully for 7ish ph.
 
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bounty29

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Edit for Reference: Day 1 Flowering August 3rd

Thanks for stopping by everyone, and thanks for the continuos advice HeadyPete!

I just got home from work and checked on them, to see how they're doing their first day of 12/12. The seedlings all showed a noticable amount of stretch since last night (no more than 1" but a noticable amount.) I was worried they would be too small to utilize my space but I think this size should work out.

Edit: Here's a side by side of yesterday and today. I think it looks like a good change.

 
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bounty29

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Here's some pictures just before lights on today, I'm going to give the seed plants a feeding before bed tonight

1 Gallon Distilled Water
15ml PBP Bloom
15ml Liquid Karma
5ml CalMag+
some PH Up




There was a little mishap and I snapped the SD's neck. I'm trying to clone it to get something out of the deal, but hopefully it doesn't take too long for the plant to recover. There's now about 4 or 5 main shoots that are all even on the canopy.
 

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