bounty29's New and Improved 150w Cabinet

[bounty29]

Alright, I decided to buy some more batteries so I could finally take some pictures. I'm glad I did.



I'm going to begin their 10 day flush in two days. I was planning on chopping them all at 80 days, but these pictures make me think that might be waiting too long? I'd love to hear some opinions on this.

The Sour Diesel is looking worse than I thought, no more big fan leaves at all. I definitely did something wrong with her, any ideas? The buds still look good, and it looks like I'll get an alright amount off it, so I'm pretty happy.



One of the freebies has it's leaves turning a bit purple, I've been getting night temps down to the low 60s recently to see if I could get some color. Nothing in the buds though. This plant's bud growth is more airy than the other freebie, but it looks good.




The other freebie isn't showing any color really, but it's got tight bud formations all the way down to the bottom, at each node.



And there it is! October 10th, Day 68 Flowering, 12 days remain until harvest.

Sorry about the amount of time between updates, I kinda put my grow on the back burner recently, and luckily everything is going well. I'm going to do my best and finish it up well, I'm eager to get a good dry and cure going with these.

Any comments, compliments, constructive criticism, or questions are more than welcome! Thanks for stopping by.

 

[Guest]

fat nuggets bounty, those mhm girls look awesome, and as for the SD - it doesnt look too bad at all, but im not sure what her problem may be

 

[HeadyPete]

hey bounty congrats on the nice haul! Frostilicious!

What is the deal with the trichomes on the plants? They should be close.

The sour d looks like overfeeding. My lui is really sporting the tip burn now that she is on max dosage of bloom for the last 2 weeks of feeding, and I am gonna water with no ferts next time to give here a break. I am following BioBizz's schedule but it's the first run and I need to modify it some.

 

[bounty29]

I'm not sure how the trichs look, I'm gonna look around tonight for my trich scope and take a little frost leaf off each plant.

As you might be able to tell, I'm going to get a ton of popcorn off that SD plant. Like I said, the leaves don't look good, but the buds look great. I'm gonna get 6 decent sized nugs off of that plant and a bunch of little popcorn buds. I'll have to weigh everything out before I decide what to do with it, but I'm definitely going to be saving my frost trim in a jar in the freezer until I decide how I want to process it. (Most likely dry sift.)

For yield, I'm really unsure. Your guess is as good as mine, but I have a feeling I need to make my 150w work a little more efficiently for me, I don't know if I'm going to be stocked until my next harvest.

 

[Guest]

i feel the same way bounty, last night i was thinking about maximizing light efficiency in my 150w perpetual, im thinking scrog at very least and probably some small beds with 2 plants each

 

[HeadyPete]

Hey bounty, I came across some info that had me thinking about your sour d. I think I was wrong and it is not fert burn, it is phosphorus deficiency in flowering, as illustrated here in the second picture, from the sickie guide:

Phosphorus (P) Mobile Element and Macro Element

Benefit: Phosphorus does a lot of things for the plant. One of the most important parts of Phosphorus is: It aids in root growth and influences the vigor of the plant and is
one of the most important elements in flowering as well helps to germinate seedlings.
Phosphorus is an essential plant nutrient, and since it is needed in large amounts, it is classified as a macronutrient. Phosphorus is a MAJOR important nutrient in the plants reproductive stages. Without this element the plants will have a lot of problems blooming without proper levels of Phosphorus.


When your plants are deficient in phosphorus, this can overall reduce the size of your plants. Not enough causes slow growth and causes the plant to become weak, to little amount of Phosphorus causes slow growths in leaves that may or may not drop off. The edges all around the leaves or half of the leaves can be brownish and work its way inwards a bit causing the part of the leaves to curl up in the air a bit. Fan leaves will show dark greenish/purplish and yellowish tones along with a dullish blue color to them. Sometimes the stems can be red, along with red petioles that can happen when having a Phosphorus deficiency. This isn’t a sure sure sign of you having one though, but can be a sign. Some strains just show the red petioles and stems from its genes.
So pretty much the overall dark green color with a purple, red, or blue tint to the fan leaves is a good sign of a Phosphorus deficiency. Having Cold weather (below 50F/10C) can make phosphorous absorption very troublesome for plants.
Many people get a Phosphorus deficiency confused with a fungus problem because the ends of the leaves look like a fungus problem, But the damage occurs at the end of the leaves. side of the leaves and has a glass like feeling to it as if it had a ph problem. Parts affected by a phosphorus deficiency are: Older Leaves, Whole plant, Petioles.

Too much Phosphorus levels affect plant growth by suppressing the uptake of: Iron, potassium and Zinc, potentially causing deficiency symptoms of these nutrients to occur def in plants. A Zinc deficiency is most common under excessive phosphorus conditions,
As well as causing other nutrients to have absorption troubles like zinc and copper. Phosphorus fluctuates when concentrated and combined with calcium



Problems with Phosphorus being locked out by PH troubles
Cold wet soils, acid or very alkaline soils, compacted soil.


Soil

Phosphorus gets locked out of soil growing at ph levels of 4.0-5.5
Phosphorus is absorbed best in soil at a ph level of 6.0-7.5 (wouldn’t recommend having a ph of over 7.0 in soil) Anything out of the ranges listed will contribute to a Phosphorus deficiency.


Hydro and Soil less Mediums

Phosphorus gets locked out of Hydro and Soil less Mediums at ph levels of 6.0-8.5.
Phosphorus is absorbed best in Hydro and Soil less Mediums at ph levels of 4.0- 5.8. (Wouldn’t recommend having a ph over 6.5 in hydro and soil less mediums.) Best range for hydro and soil less mediums is 5.0 to 6.0. Anything out of the ranges listed will contribute to a Phosphorus Deficiency.



Solution to fixing a Phosphorus deficiency
Some deficiency during flowering is normal, but too much shouldn't be tolerated. Any chemical or organic fertilizers that have Phosphorus in them will fix a Phosphorus deficiency. If you have a phosphorus deficiency you should use any N-P-K ratio that is over 5.Again Peters all purpose 20-20-20 is a good mix. Miracle grow Tomato plant food, Miracle grow All purpose plant food (Only mixing at ½ strength when using chemical nutrients, or it will cause nutrient burn!) Other forms of phosphorus supplements are: Bone meal, which is gradual absorption, I suggest making it into a tea for faster use, where bone/blood meal is slow acting, but when made into a tea it works quicker! Fruit eating bat guano, which is fast absorption, Worm castings, which is gradual absorption, Fish meal, which is medium absorption, Soft Rock Phosphate, which is medium absorption, Jamaican or Indonesian Guano, which is fast absorption. Crabshell, which is slow absorption. Tiger Bloom , which is fast absorption.

Here is a list of things to help fix a Phosphrus Deficiency.

Chemical

Advanced nutrients Bloom (0-5-4)
Vita Bloom (0-7-5)
BC Bloom (1.1-4.4-7)
GH Flora Bloom (0-5-4)
GH Maxi Bloom (5-15-14)
GH Floranova Bloom (4-8-7)
Dyna-Gro Bloom (3-12-6)
Fox Farm Tiger Bloom (2-8-4)
Awsome Blossums

Organic

Dr. Hornby's Iguana Juice Bloom (4-3-6)
Advanced Nutrients Mother Earth Bloom (.5-1.5-2)
Fox Farm Big Bloom (.01-.3-.7)
Earth Juice Bloom (0-3-1)
Pure Blend Bloom (2.5-2-5)
Pure Blend Pro Bloom (2.5-2-5)
Buddswell (0-7-0)
Sea Island Jamaican Bat Guano (1-10-0)
Indonesian Bat Guano (0-13-0)
Rainbow Mix Bloom (1-9-2)
Earth Juice Bloom (0-3-1)
BIO BLOOM (2-6-3.5)
AGE OLD BLOOM (5-10-5)
ALASKA MORBLOOM (0-10-10)
METANATURALS ORGANIC BLOOM (1-5-5)


Any of these will cure your phosphorus deficiency. Affected leaves will not show recovery but new growth will appear normal.


Now if you added to much chemical ferts and or organics,( which is hard to burn your plants when using organics) You need to Flush the soil with plain water. You need to use 2 times as much water as the size of the pot, for example: If you have a 5 gallon pot and need to flush it, you need to use 10 gallons of water to rinse out the soil good enough to get rid of excessive nutrients.


Note: Blood Meal, Dried Blood, Guanos, Kelp Meal, Cotton Seed Meal, Peat Moss,
Sulfur and fish meal are all acidic and can bring your ph down, so if you add these please monitor your ph when using those.

Note: Bone Meal, Rock Phosphate, Wood Ashes pretty much all ashes, Shellfish Compost and Crab Meal are all alkaline and can make your ph go up, so if you add any of these please monitor your ph.



Picture 1 is a Phosphorus deficiency during vegetative growth.
Picture 2 is what a phosphorus deficiency looks like in flowering.

(Picture 1 is Mine)

 

[bounty29]

I was thinking it was that too, but there's quite the thread going in the infirmary about it. There's a few different opinions, you can check it out if you want.

http://www.icmag.com/ic/showthread.php?t=70883

 

[HeadyPete]

Whoa I'm not getting into that shite.....what's up with all the attitude and names?

After reading the details I will go back to overnute, the older picture shows the heavy tip burn and the 15 ml PBP is a hot mix plus 150 hps is not alot of light. That clone looks like it was a little nute sensitive.

This is getting confusing....my head hurts....

 

[bounty29]

Yeah, I'm continuing to read the thread, taking what information I can out of it. I think it is over feeding, so I'll go a little easier next time I do the SD.

I just gave them their initial flush tonight, poured a gallon of PH'd water on each of them, about 3x as much as they usually get. I'll probably water them once more, and cut them down in 10 days! We're getting close.

 

[AriesXX]

Bounty- Amazing work! I can't believe you got such a difficult strain to perform so well under those conditions. I'm really impressed with your results, they really took shape and turned out nicely

 

[bounty29]

Thanks AriesXX

I'm getting impatient now, I think taking my mind off the grow the past month or so helped it go by faster. Cutting these girls down a week from Sunday is all I can think about now.

 

[bounty29]

Day 74 Flowering

Going to give them one more watering tomorrow night, and then I've got the day off on Sunday, and I figure I'll cut them around noonish, after their 77th dark period. They've really put on the trichs and bulked up the past week or so, check out a side by side.

Oct 10th --------------------------- Oct 16th

 

[HeadyPete]

Getting close

I feel for you, LUI day 50, looking big, solid and frosty. Checked trichs, still clear/cloudy with the odd amber, but the hairs aren't even brown, so still some time to go.

I want to smoke them all!

 

[bounty29]

Alright, I just ran another gallon of water through each of them. It's now Wednesday night, so I'll be cutting in... three and a half days (89 hours.)

If I left this much, would it be enough for a reveg after trimming the rootball down?


Ok, first up the two freebie girls, and then the Sour Diesel!

 

[HeadyPete]

What is the trich ratio amber/cloudy?

They look very yummy.

 

[bounty29]

The diesel looks like it's about 90/10 cloudy/amber, I'm not too sure of what the other ones are though. Compared to the diesel, one of the plants has more dead pistils and the other has less dead pistils, so they're somewhere on either side of that I'd say. I should have a nice mix of sativa/indica effects from the three, I'll have to figure out which is for the morning and which is for nighttime.

 

[bounty29]

Heh, sorry about that. Shame on me for not giving everyone a harvest update.

Let's see here...

I didn't weigh anything, I'd say I got maybe 1/2oz - 1oz per plant, probably closer to 1/2 though. Of the three, I'd say the chunky freebie was the best, followed by the diesel, and then the smaller freebie.

That's "Bazooka" our favorite plant of the three. This was the freebie that purpled towards the end, and grew one thick cola. Lucky for me, it's the one I think I'm going to successfully reveg. (We got tired of calling it "the other plant" and we needed something better to call it, and there was a piece of Bazooka Joe gum on the table, hence the name.) This bud wakes you up, and does not leave you feeling tired. Exactly what I've always wanted. Because of that, our jar of this is dwindling fast.


Here's the Sour D, not grown well, my fault, not sure what it was exactly but I definitely feel it had an effect on the final product. It's the most dense bud of the three plants, and also the most indica feeling, which I wasn't expecting. I'll try growing it better and maybe harvesting a little earlier next time.


This was the other freebie. Looks real good, but isn't very strong at all. Two of us can smoke a large bowl and feel mildly high. If we tried that with either the Sour D or the Bazooka, we'd have trouble functioning.



There ya go! Any questions anybody has I'll answer to the best of my abilities. Thanks for tuning in!