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bobblehead's organic bedroom of high brix gardening

silver hawaiian

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Ichabod Crane

Well-known member
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Haha thats funny.

But seriously bobble will go organic with the mercury. You know drop a couple floros in the grow. Or some bottom dwelling fish emulsion from the Detroit river.
 

bobblehead

Active member
Veteran
Finally got my reports from Logan Labs today. Overall I'm happy with what I'm seeing, but I'm waiting on reports from Fruit Grower's Lab before I do anything. According to LL my beds need minimal inputs, kinda what I was expecting. I brought the CEC way down!
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dank.frank

ef.yu.se.ka.e.em
ICMag Donor
Veteran
Okay...thanks for posting the soil test results...

What did you do that reduced the CEC - and - would you mind a synopsis of why this was a goal?

I'm pretty sure I understand - but I want to be 100% certain and somtimes it pays to hear something stated clearly, if for no other reason than to reinforce your own knowledge.

With each test are you slowly refining your post-harvest inputs each time - getting the re-amending process more and more dialed in? (last tests look really good though for recycled beds)

As always - thanks for sharing your garden with us. :respect:



dank.Frank
 

bobblehead

Active member
Veteran
Okay...thanks for posting the soil test results...

What did you do that reduced the CEC - and - would you mind a synopsis of why this was a goal?

I'm pretty sure I understand - but I want to be 100% certain and somtimes it pays to hear something stated clearly, if for no other reason than to reinforce your own knowledge.

With each test are you slowly refining your post-harvest inputs each time - getting the re-amending process more and more dialed in? (last tests look really good though for recycled beds)

As always - thanks for sharing your garden with us. :respect:



dank.Frank

I fixed the soil report, the bottom was cut off.

The CEC was jacked up because I had so much organic matter in my soil. I haven't added anything for at least 3 grow cycles now, so it's all had time to break down. I added the inputs that were lacking to saturate the CEC the best I could with the results from the first test, but when it was in the 70's it was tying up N. Now it's on point! According to LL anyway... (edit: I meant my CEC is on point now, so it's not tying up nutrients like before, the organic matter is still high and can tie up N.)

The first test was only I think 3 cycles in. I haven't added any meals since. Just minerals and some salts. I added some cobalt sulfate recently. I'm really happy with the results with only 1 adjustment done so far.

When I get the report from FGL I'll get an even better picture of what's going on. I'm curious to see the difference between the two. They're each getting the exact same soil.
 

milkyjoe

Senior Member
Veteran
Thanks for sharing...nicely, nicely. Serious respect for letting it play out like that. Kinda convinced 3 grow min for everything to break down and attach to cec sites myself...then again wtf do I know.

What you think about the micro ppms?
 

DoubleTripleOG

Chemdog & Kush Lover Extraordinaire
ICMag Donor
Been telling one of my buddies to join this site. Told him anything he would ever wanna learn is right on this site. Your commitment to your beds and the soil analysis Bobble prove my point.

So many knowledgeable dudes on here that are willing to put in the work, and explain the "WHY". Threads like this keep me interested, and spark interest in an open mind. Thanks Bobble!!!!!
 

bobblehead

Active member
Veteran
Thanks for sharing...nicely, nicely. Serious respect for letting it play out like that. Kinda convinced 3 grow min for everything to break down and attach to cec sites myself...then again wtf do I know.

What you think about the micro ppms?


I'm a pretty patient guy... for my generation anyway. :D. I figured retesting after each grow was going to be a waste of money. I learned a lot about organic soil from the big plant guys, and their tests were for full season plants, so...

I feel like growth has slowed down a bit lately but overall health is great, and given that it's been a year since the last test, it was time. Can't just start adding things all willy nilly when i can't take it back out like i did with the rock phosphate. Luckily that doesn't matter so much. Pretty sure that's why i was so liberal with it.

As far as my micros... i need to bring them up, specifically B, Mn, and Zn. I need K and N as well. I'm going to add them to the soil as well as foliar. Going by the albrecht and reams charts all my ppms are low, but i just watched my plants cannabilize themselves, then took the sample. Seems like that would be an expected finding. i'll have a better idea when i get my report from FGL how my micros compare now vs. before.
 

bobblehead

Active member
Veteran
Been telling one of my buddies to join this site. Told him anything he would ever wanna learn is right on this site. Your commitment to your beds and the soil analysis Bobble prove my point.

So many knowledgeable dudes on here that are willing to put in the work, and explain the "WHY". Threads like this keep me interested, and spark interest in an open mind. Thanks Bobble!!!!!

Thanks, happy to help. Ain't nothing to it but to do it.
 

Ichabod Crane

Well-known member
Veteran
I see you need K and N.

Here what you can do for this. Take some hard wood ash and run water threw it. Filter out the ash from the water. Next see if a egg floats in it. If not run the water threw more ashes. Filter and place in a large container.

Now take some chicken manure and place that in the bucket with the wood ash water. Stir the let it set for a few days then filter. Once it is filtered dry the liquid off till you get crystals. Caution dont use flame to do this at the end. what you have is Potassium Nitrate and is combustable.

Now add the Potassium nitrate to your beds. Or add 35% powdered sugar and make bottle rockets.

I like my chickens.
 

bobblehead

Active member
Veteran
I'm a pretty patient guy... for my generation anyway. :D. I figured retesting after each grow was going to be a waste of money. I learned a lot about organic soil from the big plant guys, and their tests were for full season plants, so...

I feel like growth has slowed down a bit lately but overall health is great, and given that it's been a year since the last test, it was time. Can't just start adding things all willy nilly when i can't take it back out like i did with the rock phosphate. Luckily that doesn't matter so much. Pretty sure that's why i was so liberal with it.

As far as my micros... i need to bring them up, specifically B, Mn, and Zn. I need K and N as well. I'm going to add them to the soil as well as foliar. Going by the albrecht and reams charts all my ppms are low, but i just watched my plants cannabilize themselves, then took the sample. Seems like that would be an expected finding. i'll have a better idea when i get my report from FGL how my micros compare now vs. before.

looking at the tests more, I actually have a good level of most of my micros in the soil, but it's not been made available. That's why they're telling me to foliar only. Good thing I didn't jump to conclusions... :D and I still have another test on the way with recommendations.

So yeah... K and N....
 

bobblehead

Active member
Veteran
I see you need K and N.

Here what you can do for this. Take some hard wood ash and run water threw it. Filter out the ash from the water. Next see if a egg floats in it. If not run the water threw more ashes. Filter and place in a large container.

Now take some chicken manure and place that in the bucket with the wood ash water. Stir the let it set for a few days then filter. Once it is filtered dry the liquid off till you get crystals. Caution dont use flame to do this at the end. what you have is Potassium Nitrate and is combustable.

Now add the Potassium nitrate to your beds. Or add 35% powdered sugar and make bottle rockets.

I like my chickens.

Couldn't I just take the ingredients, put them in my beds, and let the biology do the work? KNO3 is cheap to buy, and I don't want to load my beds up on NO3, I need NH4.
 

Ichabod Crane

Well-known member
Veteran
Couldn't I just take the ingredients, put them in my beds, and let the biology do the work? KNO3 is cheap to buy, and I don't want to load my beds up on NO3, I need NH4.

Slacker, taking the easy way. But that way you cant make bottle rockets, or gun powder. I understand not making the gun powder because it will be low grade smoky powder.
 

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