Advancing Eco Agriculture, Product Science

[slownickel]

Take a photo of the part of the branch that joined to the plant.

Then take knife to the branch, start whittling away slowly, look for discolorations after each cut. Keep cutting until you get through the center. Take photos when you come to something.

Often this can be induced from a physical injury (like birds roosting) or abuse by someone hitting the plant early on, splintering the joint of the branch and trunk.

If you think this really is canker, send a sample to a lab.

 

[cannascholar]

I had similiar issues last year when mice would chew my stalks and then they'd turn to mush and the plant would die. Gary reccomended increasing holo phos, ca, si, sea shield, mn, mo, cu, and zn. The leaf pictured appears to have a Zn def based on what Milky shared earlier regarding leaf blade symmetry at the intersection of the base and petiole. I would give them a micro boost by foliaring and drenching rebound micros at roughly 5 ml per gal several times along with the other products mentioned above. Sea crop would also help.

 

[Lightweight]

I attached my soil samples from Spectrum Analytics. The "FIELD" prescription is easy enough to figure out and in the "GREENHOUSE" I figure I should probably add a couple yards of some peat moss and some copper and manganese also.

I'm guessing the high levels of everything in the greenhouse is from the 6-8"+ of woodchips, but i don't really know. I was adding about 16 cups (about 8 lbs. I think) of Nutri-Rich 4-3-2 at the beginning of each flower cycle (about every 12 weeks-ish) and about 16-20 cups of either gypsum or 50/50 gypsum/dolomite at the same time too. I stopped adding anything to the soil about 3 months ago since things were going screwy.

@slownickel, how would you deal with a soil like my greenhouse? Keep adding gypsum until everything comes down or ?

Also Bill at Spectrum wrote me this for the indexes:
B23762 Index Cu is .1 Index Mn is 21
B23763 Index Cu is .5 Index Mn is 4.5

Also, does anybody know if it's okay to till in fresh vegetation into the ground where plants are growing? I put some plants in my "field" spot and my plan was to fertilize that spot and just top dress immediately around the plants and till around them so the roots can grow into the amended soil. I'm going to weed whack all the grass and weeds as low as I can and remove the excess vegetation, but do I need to weed them all out of the soil or can I just till in what's left of the weeds and grass? I'm going to plant some different cover crops and I'm not worried about weeds re-emerging really. Any opinions?

Thanks for any advise.

And on a side note, I thought the "milkyjoe working for Monsatan" drama was pretty freaking classic, especially after going back and reading some of the comments, in particular the ones from jidoka, but there was some other funny ones like, "he's always been all about the money, he still grows Blue Dream for God's sake..." or something lIke that, ha ha ha. That stuff had me cracking up

Alright, back to kicking butt and taking names and just FYI, I really like good Blue Dream

 

[FoothillFarming]

Most of their products can be safely sprayed at 30 ml + per gallon. I go a little lighter with drenches sometimes.

I have been trying to use less AEA this year in order to cut costs. Top dressing with mule manure and Stutzman's chicken, dry ammendments like Dr.earth, green bicycle , Ca Silicate and even micro sulfates, B, Mo in small amounts.

I thought I was killing my micro heard at 15ml of sea shield...... You guys are adding 30+ml of products like micropak?

 

[VortexPower420]

Lightweight- my thoughts come from a notill perspective so take it as you will.

I would throw down cover crop seed. Weedwack the weeds and leave the trimmings as a mulch to help the seeds germinate.

No need to disturb the soil. If it is under a healthy plant the roots will have CO mingled in the rich upper horizon or your soil. Pulling out the roots will do harm.

If you killed the "weeds" you weed wacked then the roots will become worm.food and if not then you have more diversity in you cover crop.

Most cover crops when planted heavly will put push out most other plants.

Alot of times in this style of growing steping back and getting your heard of soil life take the reigns is what is best.

 

[orechron]

Hemp canker. It seems to get us all eventually. I haven't personally seen it yet inside, but I've got my soil very close to where I want it and it may be disease suppressive or rather giving the plant what it needs for defense. I'd like to work outdoor soil to that point and see if the same can be done.

In my experience it usually doesn't kill the plant. What will happen next is the large fan leaves connected to the main stalks will droop and turn yellow. Late in the season the flowers on infected plants seem to finish around a week earlier and the buds are a little smaller and more tightly formed. Yield is maybe 25-40% of what it would normally be.

 

[slownickel]

Lightweight,

As you can plainly see, you calcium levels with M3 are not real. Nor is you Mg real with M3. And your Mn against all that Fe and Al, not going to cut the mustard.

The answer for you is, yes, gypsum. This sample is classic for folks to learn from.

Ask Bill at the lab to post your numbers to my account so I can down load your numbers in excel.

Good job!

 

[cannascholar]

I usually go lighter with the micropak because it's expensive and to avoid overdoing B. I usually foliar it around 10-15 ml or use albion multimineral. I address most of my micro needs with sulfates or rebound bottles. I have watered in MnSO4 at 2g/gal with no visible issues and also top dressed sulfates.

 

[slownickel]

Orech,

At your calcium levels, you are close. Disease and insect suppression come much easier from your nutrient density within the plant along with all the phyto-assimilates that come with it.

 

[calisun]

I got some accelerate today. Took 6 days to get to Ca. 1 gal sent in 2.5 gal container. No leaks or explosions this time.
It sounds like people are using 1 to 6 oz per gal as a foliar spray. What amount are you guys seeing the best result with. I usually mix 1/2 oz of ful-power fulvic acid and 1/2 oz dr broners soap per gal to all my foliar sprays. I'm wondering if it would be better not to use them with accelerate. Any thoughts on that.

 

[Hillside Growin]

Could guys take a look at my soil tests and give some suggestions. Aea mentioned that they would ship it in a larger containers to me as well, hopefully it fixes the exploiding/expanding jugs. Ive had 4 attempts since june to ship rejuventate.

 

[caterpillar710]

I got some accelerate today. Took 6 days to get to Ca. 1 gal sent in 2.5 gal container. No leaks or explosions this time.
It sounds like people are using 1 to 6 oz per gal as a foliar spray. What amount are you guys seeing the best result with. I usually mix 1/2 oz of ful-power fulvic acid and 1/2 oz dr broners soap per gal to all my foliar sprays. I'm wondering if it would be better not to use them with accelerate. Any thoughts on that.

Curious why you wouldn't try it by itself first. Have you ever used it before ? It's already got humics in it

 

[jidoka]

Yup...5-7% of soln that first time. It comes with humics and a wetting agent so please don't add more

 

[calisun]

Curious why you wouldn't try it by itself first. Have you ever used it before ? It's already got humics in it

No I have never used it before the other day. I did do a foliar application the other night at half strength and did not add anything to it. I consider using ful-power because it is a high quality product I have success with. Not all labeled humics are equal. I know ful-power is a quality fulvic acid witch has a smaller molecular size/weight and can penetrate the leaf better than humic acid. I use fulvic for foliar sprays and humic for teas/ soil applications. I always add dr. broners as a wetting agent to help the spray spread and stick.
I always start low and work my way up. I was just asking if others who have been using accelerate settled in on a good application rate and if they add anything.

 

[caterpillar710]

It's fire in a bottle at 7%

 

[calisun]

Yup...5-7% of soln that first time. It comes with humics and a wetting agent so please don't add more

so 6 to 9 oz per gallon. That's good to know. I applied one ounce per gallon last time. I'll step it up to 3 oz next time and see how they respond. Thanks

 

[FoothillFarming]

Slownickle hooked me up with this info:

Albion used to be the chelation company. However the Dad who started Albion, now helps his kids over at Baicor. He has been quoted saying Albion only let him use the chelation process 3 times, and Baicor has a 5 step process.

I have been getting almost zero response from my Rebound products from AEA. For sure making the switch. I also have been getting Rejuvenate and SeaShield through other routes.

I bring this up for others who may be having similar problems. Happy growing everybody.

 

[caterpillar710]

Interesting to hear you get zero response from the Rebound series , my friend is an agronomist and he has thousands of acres on this fertility program with good results. Is it possible your soil is blocking the absorption by the plant because of how its building its cell walls? I think it is.

Can you post the interview where he talks about the differences in preparation between the two companies

Where else and who else makes rejuvenate ? I know that's something AEA bottles and sells themselves , you can make it yourself at home with molasses kelp sea water yucca extract and a few other spices

 

[FoothillFarming]

Don't think I should say where I am getting the Rejuvanate......

Could be a cell wall thing. I posted my soil results in my thread. Feel free to come over and chat. I will leave the AEA thread for those who don't want me.

Edit: I was talking to SlowNickle over the phone. So I can't repost that......However I will invite slownickel to share.

 

[caterpillar710]

Don't think I should say where I am getting the Rejuvanate......

Could be a cell wall thing. I posted my soil results in my thread. Feel free to come over and chat. I will leave the AEA thread for those who don't want me.

Edit: I was talking to SlowNickle over the phone. So I can't repost that......However I will invite slownickel to share.

Again - rejuvenate is bottled in Ohio by AEA. It's molasses sea water humic acid kelp yucca and a few other spices like pepzyme c , there are similar products on market , one is called Pound It. I love that product name !!

Don't be lame and say you're doing something but not fully explain in detail. That's what you and other people want when posting in a forum like this, information, let people take it or leave it.