Advancing Eco Agriculture, Product Science

[caterpillar710]

That's awesome slow , I have a PhD in THC On a serious note doubling my yields would put me in Tall Tale categories when discussing. I think 16-20lbper plant unless growing something like an African X Pakistan cross that will grow in to December is going to be hard to make.

If you do want to however want to try, plane ticket offer stands.

 

[jidoka]

How about some actual detail...full soil report, fert/spray, cec. Shouldnt be hard to copy in a pot and give it a try.

Most people are in peat based mixes so gypsum is a disaster because of its leaching effects. If I hit 85% Ca with gypsum in a peat mix I will leach k and mg to the point there is not enough to grow the plant

On the upside we get a ton of microbe activity. So I use 200 mesh ca carbonate or silicate and it is quickly available. Like I said 1/2 inch basalt disappears in 4 grows for me

You are fortunate to have such fantastic soil. The question is does your method work for acid soils

 

[Johnny Redthumb]

 

[jidoka]

how are those 85% soils working Johnny.

And some dumb ass recommended a bit much Mg on the clay mix Crab shell obviously breaks down faster than calcium silicate

 

[slownickel]

JIDOKA,

Those soil analysis are not at 85% Calcium. However, all that potassium and magnesium is real.

Several on the board have agreed to try the [email protected] process on their mediums at Spectrum. We will have the indexed metals as well.

With these results in hand then we can have a bit more scientific conversation.

I apply gypsum 2 or 3 times per year, as do most of my grape and citrus growers.

And yes, we are trying to wash element away and at the same time, get more available calcium, which quickly shows up in both the leaf and soil analysis.

You are quite correct, we cannot build up inventories of calcium with gypsum. That doesn't bother me at all.

If you are aiming at your high calcium objective something has to fall or be pushed out. 99% of time, the issue is magnesium and sodium. With the big culprit being Mg. Realize that magnesium can be quiet toxic above certain levels in the soil. Over 25% Mg will cause all the problems in the world.

Adding more and more CIC will not get you your objective.

This is NOT a crop in YOUR SOIL OR MIXES that I have experience with so as I have said over and over, you do trials.

 

[maxmurder]

in my notebook i have 1 quart per acre = 4 mils per gallon is this correct?
yesterday i got the aea summer 2016 issue and the article on accelerate recommends a foliar of 2 to 3 gallons per acre so 32 to 48 mils per gallon.
i read last year somewhere in this thread that you should apply this 2 weeks before flower 12/12 for cannabis. well for me indoor this is just rooted clones in rockwool potting up for a 2 week veg before the flip.
has anyone reading this followed this application in or outdoors or maybe done a side by side and seen the benefits?

 

[cannascholar]

Most of their products can be safely sprayed at 30 ml + per gallon. I go a little lighter with drenches sometimes.

I have been trying to use less AEA this year in order to cut costs. Top dressing with mule manure and Stutzman's chicken, dry ammendments like Dr.earth, green bicycle , Ca Silicate and even micro sulfates, B, Mo in small amounts.

 

[jidoka]

Max...a good starting point is a 5% solution...so 1 part acc and 19 parts water
Safe but you will end up seeing good results

I have seen up to 10% without probs.

I use 5%

Edit...canna is doing it right imo

 

[Johnny Redthumb]

Jidoka. Still struggling with the high calcium. New tests don't show much improvement other than upping the trace a bit. Taking slownickel's advice and starting to see some results. Also need to feed quite a bit more, soil EC is around 0.2 in that BAS. So feeding well now and waiting on a soil EC meter. Where did you get yours? Amazon is telling me 6 weeks, I want one now!

The clay is rocking on point and holding water. I'm backing off on the certain% of water per day routine and just kinda going back to old grandma gardening and watering. Just gave em a dose of K and a high dose of Mo yesterday and they look great!

slownickel, do you recommend dumping corrective amounts of salts on them during season? Seems like most soluble salts will ionize and could potentially cause problems, but I am many lbs deficient and trickling hydro rates at em, while effective, is just a slow game of catch up. I know certain elements like Mo and Zn, they can handle in large amounts. I suppose it has to do with the concentrations needed and the potential toxicity of each element in their needed concentrations.

 

[jidoka]

JR...mine has a broken wire and it is really thin. If you think you can fix it you are welcome to it til you get one. Or check with Custom Hydro Nutrients and see if he is holding one cause he gets me stuff in 3-4 days.

If you are going ionic keep it balanced cause you will shut down the microbes.

That clay mix makes me smile. You are the only one that trusted it but 1/2 the water probably way better results. My Killer Queen in it is stacking better than anything I have done yet. I musta got lucky. I am guessing next yr chuck some sup r green in it as a starter and let er rip.

Fuckin Zn though. No telling how much this plant needs.

edit....ooops, its a Hanna, CHN will know which one

 

[Avenger]

broken sensor wire?

 

[jidoka]

Battery

 

[oct]

Canker

Canker

I can't post more than one picture from my iphone in a single post so it'll be two posts. I've never really had problems with these before and this year I've had three show up.

I remember byf had problems with them. I read he amends mycostop and root-shield pre-season to stop it it. I'd like to do something about them right now so that it doesn't happen anymore the rest of the season.

What have you guys done to stop these from happening and combat them when they did? This is the plant it was on. Things been growing great and healthy. I walked out and saw the limp branch and with a slight tug, it popped off.

 

[oct]

Base where wilted branch popped off. I don't mind a few branches falling off, I just don't want it to spread and disrupt the whole stem.

 

[Shcrews]

I had that happen on one or two lower branches every single season. FF said he's seen it too. Didn't know what it was until now. Thank you (and byf too)

 

[caterpillar710]

I can't post more than one picture from my iphone in a single post so it'll be two posts. I've never really had problems with these before and this year I've had three show up.

I remember byf had problems with them. I read he amends mycostop and root-shield pre-season to stop it it. I'd like to do something about them right now so that it doesn't happen anymore the rest of the season.
Neither one of those will stop it from happening and mycostop needs to be contacting the roots of the plants. I like to just put 5 grams in a gallon and dip my cuttings in it undiluted. RootShield is a waste in my opinion. The actual biological control for white mold or what in hemp is called hemp canker is Contans WG. But are you sure it isn't birds roosting in your plants ? I thought I had that dis-ease and changed to all seed for full season to try to battle it and all in all I've got about 250lbs of Contans mixed in to my garden sites. I found quail and scrub jays roosting in my plants and have attributed the few broken branches to these birds. I have a 5' cage a 7.5' cage and a 12' box of trellis around the plants and additional wrapping off the box. I think the branch joint gets damaged when they take off. They learn to roost in and around the plants when they're young and they can easily get to the 5' cage. If I was going to grow long season again I'd put Mylar bird tape all over my cages.

What have you guys done to stop these from happening and combat them when they did? This is the plant it was on. Things been growing great and healthy. I walked out and saw the limp branch and with a slight tug, it popped off.
Check out hemp pest and diseases

Best of luck with the problem

 

[oct]

Byf used contans WG, I said the wrong thing. I'm actually reading the hemp pests and diseases section on that right now. Its for sure a canker. Thanks for the advice. Looking back on it, I've had them more than I thought. Actually the only plant I had that died last year, was in that same box. Mycelium overtook the whole stalk and caused a major roadblock. It went from looking great to dead in about a week. Maybe a coincidence, but it says contaminated soil is the leading cause of it.

What does dipping your cuttings in mycostop help with? What is the best way to apply contans WG and do you think it would be worth doing this season still? I've been reading your posts lately. I caught on that this isn't your first rodeo within a few of them so I've been paying attention.

 

[Top_shelf_farms]

I lose a few branches a year as well....

 

[caterpillar710]

Byf used contans WG, I said the wrong thing. I'm actually reading the hemp pests and diseases section on that right now. Its for sure a canker. Thanks for the advice. Looking back on it, I've had them more than I thought. Actually the only plant I had that died last year, was in that same box. Mycelium overtook the whole stalk and caused a major roadblock. It went from looking great to dead in about a week. Maybe a coincidence, but it says contaminated soil is the leading cause of it.That is definitely what spreads it around and why you still have it. We just blended the Contans in to the hole as well as made a tea and sprayed it

What does dipping your cuttings in mycostop help with? Things like fusarium and verticilliumWhat is the best way to apply contans WG and do you think it would be worth doing this season still? Your plants are already infected so stopping it now will be very difficult. It's in the soil too. Your off season is all about remediation. A good cover crop to break up the monoculture of your beds then in spring make sure to apply Contans before plantingI've been reading your posts lately. I caught on that this isn't your first rodeo within a few of them so I've been paying attention.

Definitely been bucked off the bull hard but I've also got a few shiny belt buckles as well. Don't follow along too hard

 

[caterpillar710]

That black on the inside of the wound in your photo is a tell tale sign of the canker disease as well as any swollen parts of the branch. This disease builds the mycelium inside the stalk and blocks the uptake of nutrients. I also have found that enough Ca and Si in the soil and enough trace and ultra trace the stems will make solid tissue instead of looking like a drinking straw and that's much harder to infect