Great stuff, Srcub. Keep up the good work.
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220w pl-l coco scrog cupboard
wow wow thouse buds R looking very nice. also thouse seedlings r looking great too.
Thanks guys! 
Rhyo, if you look at the last pic of roots, you can see the roots, and that's sort of the problem - All those roots are only half in contact with soil. If it was working I'd have no real roots showing, they'd all be in full contact with soil, not an inert unbreathing plastic surface.
I removed a bulb, I'll see how the temp goes.
it's a battle.
Rhyo, if you look at the last pic of roots, you can see the roots, and that's sort of the problem - All those roots are only half in contact with soil. If it was working I'd have no real roots showing, they'd all be in full contact with soil, not an inert unbreathing plastic surface. I removed a bulb, I'll see how the temp goes.
it's a battle.
Looking good broski went to take photos this morn of the PD x Dynamite plants and flat batteries on the camera doh! Those buds look like they want to keep going onward and upward bro, high heat will affect 'em as you know, but I know ur onto it. Pics later on this arvo hopefully.
Happy Gardening Bro.
Peace.
Happy Gardening Bro.
Peace.
Hey boom! Would love to see em, brah. This is all an adventure for me. I've heard people say xº is too hot, but I've always wanted to know what happens if you grow anyway
Today is not too bad and the min/max daily cab temp recorded in the cupboard is 80.9/86.3. That's a top-of-cab temp. It's much hotter "in the sun"
Today is not too bad and the min/max daily cab temp recorded in the cupboard is 80.9/86.3. That's a top-of-cab temp. It's much hotter "in the sun"
when my temps get too high in mid summer i have noticed my leaves drooping and buds forming almost foxtail shape with hardly any calyxes on the raised stalk. this is very bad hehehe! i have also had a bud cuddle up next to a 85w daylight bulb nice and tightly. it got bleached yellowy brown and the leaves died. i moved the bud away and let it continue growing and it never fully recovered. new bud formations started growing out of the affected area though and when smoked it tasted like ass LOL. note to self - check those wild sativas every day !
Howdy OB, the 'tails seem to be filling out a little, and temps are pretty good with the 1 bulb removed (.3º over ambient, cab temp 82.5º). Right after the buds started showing signs of heat stress I started giving her light doses of Seasol (kelp) which I never normally do in flower and I'm thinking this may have contributed? It's almost like it was a huge growth spurt but maybe I'm just being optimistic 
I set up the vertical pl-l again with that 80mm delta running on 5v, it's perfect.
Great for air circulation around the roots! I water outside the cab for now but I'll make a splash collar for it.
Here's the Leda Unos at 21 days above ground:
Here's the TWxPDs at 14 days:
I gotta sort out a better lighting setup. That's a 48w 5000k for now. I'm going to pinch/FIM the TWxPDs and flip them all later this week or so. The Ledas will stay untopped and grown vert and LST'd away from the bulb, instead of a screen. All in all, looking good, but one or two Ledas is still underfed.
Oh yeah I got some sugar and yeast so I'll read up on a diy co2 system. I'll manually connect/disconnect it from the intake so it only gets it at lights on. I also had a cool idea how to automate it but I need to brainstorm that a little. Peace.
I set up the vertical pl-l again with that 80mm delta running on 5v, it's perfect.
Great for air circulation around the roots! I water outside the cab for now but I'll make a splash collar for it.
Here's the Leda Unos at 21 days above ground:
Here's the TWxPDs at 14 days:
I gotta sort out a better lighting setup. That's a 48w 5000k for now. I'm going to pinch/FIM the TWxPDs and flip them all later this week or so. The Ledas will stay untopped and grown vert and LST'd away from the bulb, instead of a screen. All in all, looking good, but one or two Ledas is still underfed.
Oh yeah I got some sugar and yeast so I'll read up on a diy co2 system. I'll manually connect/disconnect it from the intake so it only gets it at lights on. I also had a cool idea how to automate it but I need to brainstorm that a little. Peace.
Starting to look good in there!
Starting to look good in there!
Real purty like
Starting to look good in there!
Real purty like
R
Rhyolite
Post erased.
Thanks man, the penetration has been not too bad and now a lot of them are laying over and getting light down low too. Still got a while to go yet though. I'll probably flush for 3 weeks. I've always flushed 2 weeks but my plants still end up green. I suspect it's because the P drops out of Dutch Master nutes very easily, thus they've had a higher ratio of N. :science:
She usually gets about 0.9 to 1.0 ec of chem hydro nutes and the rest as guano/kelp/molasses. To put that in context, full chem feed would be about 1.4 ec. I also gave her a couple of doses of a chem P:K boost earlier. Oh and a granulated soil microbial product once or twice, and quite often Bio Bugs, an aussie product which fucking kicks ass.
PH is all over the place. If I brew a tea for ages, the ph rises radically, and I often forget to lower it. There's the school of thought that you shouldn't fuck with it anyway, but I really don't know, being half chem/half organic. Sometimes (and normally in chem coco) I adjust it to 5.8 or 5.9. Sometimes like after a long tea it's more like 6.8 I think. If I were to pour ph down into a tea, there goes all the microbial life...so I dunno. Seems to be working anyway. I try not to alter anything too much, bits of this, bits of that, it all comes together.
Oh yeah and I tipped all the TWxPDs except for the one mongy one. When the new shoots get about a half to one inch, I'll flip.
She usually gets about 0.9 to 1.0 ec of chem hydro nutes and the rest as guano/kelp/molasses. To put that in context, full chem feed would be about 1.4 ec. I also gave her a couple of doses of a chem P:K boost earlier. Oh and a granulated soil microbial product once or twice, and quite often Bio Bugs, an aussie product which fucking kicks ass.
PH is all over the place. If I brew a tea for ages, the ph rises radically, and I often forget to lower it. There's the school of thought that you shouldn't fuck with it anyway, but I really don't know, being half chem/half organic. Sometimes (and normally in chem coco) I adjust it to 5.8 or 5.9. Sometimes like after a long tea it's more like 6.8 I think. If I were to pour ph down into a tea, there goes all the microbial life...so I dunno. Seems to be working anyway. I try not to alter anything too much, bits of this, bits of that, it all comes together.
Oh yeah and I tipped all the TWxPDs except for the one mongy one. When the new shoots get about a half to one inch, I'll flip.
sx646522
Member
Hi Scrub,
Nice work on the ScrOG, and it's good to see the pl vertical also. I converted to ScrOG back in 2000 and prefer it for max yields with acceptable numbers of plants. Always better to make your plants conform to the garden space than vice versa. Nice even canopies and efficient light distribution is the way to go.
Will you be switching up the spectrum on those bulbs to 2700K/6500K this time around? I was curious as to why you use the degree Kelvin's you do, and whether you've found them to be as effective as the warm/daylight lamps, if you've used those in the past.
Cheers,
-SX
Nice work on the ScrOG, and it's good to see the pl vertical also. I converted to ScrOG back in 2000 and prefer it for max yields with acceptable numbers of plants. Always better to make your plants conform to the garden space than vice versa. Nice even canopies and efficient light distribution is the way to go.
Will you be switching up the spectrum on those bulbs to 2700K/6500K this time around? I was curious as to why you use the degree Kelvin's you do, and whether you've found them to be as effective as the warm/daylight lamps, if you've used those in the past.
Cheers,
-SX
Hi Scrub, "starting" to look good is a very modest statement. I'd vote for stunning!
Is "cola" defined as the dominant cluster of buds or simply a cluster of buds? If it's the latter, you have a batch of colas man. Well done.
Is "cola" defined as the dominant cluster of buds or simply a cluster of buds? If it's the latter, you have a batch of colas man. Well done.
I couldn't agree more bro REAL PURTY PURTY colas, awesome inspiring work scrub.Real purty like
Happy Gardening Broham.
Peace.
R
Rhyolite
Post erased.
wow wow wow wow UR gardens R looking really really nice.
U r just ROCKEN thouse gardens arn't ya brotha man.
Actually theres a lot of us that r Rocken nice micro gardens. but.....
U r just ROCKEN thouse gardens arn't ya brotha man.
Actually theres a lot of us that r Rocken nice micro gardens. but.....
thanks man
Oh you guys :
sx646522, about the kelvins, I basically just do it because people say not to. I'm a very contrary person. This is only my second time flowering indoors so I don't wanna come across like I know what I'm doing or anything, lol. I used 4000k because that's what it came with and I had issues finding more bulbs at the time. I don't pay much attention to lighting charts etc. If you look at horticultural fluoros with little green but more blue and red, well how come a regular household fluoro canes them at actually growing a plant? (the ones I and a friend have used anyway). There's a lot of grey area there that can't be answered in a spectral chart or lumen rating.
The only lighting advice I take is from my eyes, and I still have a lot of things to look at Somewhat ironically, I'm nearly blind from staring at fluoros all the time. Recently I started wearing sunglasses religiously every time I go into any cab, and my eyes are a lot better. I'd encourage you guys to do that. But back to the topic!
Scrog is great but I've sort of drifted off it. I should point out too that this grow didn't become a scrog as I'd originally planned. One thing I don't like about scrog is that it locks you in. There is always a lanky shoot with nowhere just right to tuck it. You get squared in, I found. So I went with this, what I like to call a screenless scrog when I'm high. Plenty of room for adjustment, not much training required, no screen in the way - better air flow etc etc. The 24w vertical will be screenless too.
Disco, thanks bro! I have a buncha weed, that's all I know! I think Rhyo is right, although it's one of those terms that can be used a lot, imo. It's hard to show the penetration in pics but I'll try to hook a lamp up or something. Ironic, I know, but my camera is huge and I can't get it under the lights, lol. It blows away my last grow for penetration, I can say that much. Final trim will tell the full story
Boom, right on
Personally I'm waiting to see what you do next! You are cola king in my view!
Cheese, thank you mate. It's a pleasure being on here and seeing all the great grows that go down, your own included!
Well I think that's everybody....phew...need another smoke now!
: sx646522, about the kelvins, I basically just do it because people say not to. I'm a very contrary person. This is only my second time flowering indoors so I don't wanna come across like I know what I'm doing or anything, lol. I used 4000k because that's what it came with and I had issues finding more bulbs at the time. I don't pay much attention to lighting charts etc. If you look at horticultural fluoros with little green but more blue and red, well how come a regular household fluoro canes them at actually growing a plant? (the ones I and a friend have used anyway). There's a lot of grey area there that can't be answered in a spectral chart or lumen rating.
The only lighting advice I take is from my eyes, and I still have a lot of things to look at Somewhat ironically, I'm nearly blind from staring at fluoros all the time. Recently I started wearing sunglasses religiously every time I go into any cab, and my eyes are a lot better. I'd encourage you guys to do that. But back to the topic!Scrog is great but I've sort of drifted off it. I should point out too that this grow didn't become a scrog as I'd originally planned. One thing I don't like about scrog is that it locks you in. There is always a lanky shoot with nowhere just right to tuck it. You get squared in, I found. So I went with this, what I like to call a screenless scrog when I'm high. Plenty of room for adjustment, not much training required, no screen in the way - better air flow etc etc. The 24w vertical will be screenless too.
Disco, thanks bro! I have a buncha weed, that's all I know! I think Rhyo is right, although it's one of those terms that can be used a lot, imo. It's hard to show the penetration in pics but I'll try to hook a lamp up or something. Ironic, I know, but my camera is huge and I can't get it under the lights, lol. It blows away my last grow for penetration, I can say that much. Final trim will tell the full story
Boom, right on
Personally I'm waiting to see what you do next! You are cola king in my view!Cheese, thank you mate.
It's a pleasure being on here and seeing all the great grows that go down, your own included!Well I think that's everybody....phew...need another smoke now!
Hey sx, here is The Pure, same cut, a few days ahead, grown directly under a 23w warm white and only other warm whites leaking onto it. OLD PIC ahoy.
Here are some lighting charts of some of the bulbs I use.
These are the 4000k pl-l:
The 10,000k fluoro I use in the tent sometimes:
Here are some lighting charts of some of the bulbs I use.
These are the 4000k pl-l:
The 10,000k fluoro I use in the tent sometimes:
I've never seen a plant put on as much weight overnight as this just did, for realz The foxtails were a growth spurt after all. I think this may be gods way of telling me not to adjust ph.
These next ones are all taken from the left front side
Up high
On the same level
From down below
<-- in training for victory lap!
Whatever my old yield guess was, I raise it
I also made a simple vertical pl-l reflector out of a lampshade, a pl-l clip, and a screw. Sadly the lampshades I use here are the opposite curve to what I really need, but it helps not to waste all that light at this early stage anyway. Even though the delta fan is on 5v, it kicks out a shitload of air, and now it all funnels up through the hole in the top of the shade, and past that hot base. It keeps the base cool enough to hold, which is pretty impressive for that bulb! Anyway, here 'tis mon.
Peace.
Edit: shit, I can't flip the seedlings yet, I have to repot first. This is probably the world's noobiest question but how big of a pot should I be looking at here? Would 2 litres be enough? Thanks.
Edit edit: Bio-Bugs!
# Prevents and cures Pythium, Phytophora, Ryzoctoria nematodes and dozens more plant associated diseases.
# Superfast bacteria/ rapid 8 hour activation
# Turns organic matter into usable plant food
# Fully soluble mixture, suitable for misting
# Totally harmless to plants, fish, animals and humans
# Ensures the whitest, cleanest root structure possible
# Increases beneficial micro flora to hydroponic and soil
I was thinking it would be good to introduce to cloning mediums too...
The foxtails were a growth spurt after all. I think this may be gods way of telling me not to adjust ph.These next ones are all taken from the left front side
Up high
On the same level
From down below
<-- in training for victory lap!Whatever my old yield guess was, I raise it
I also made a simple vertical pl-l reflector out of a lampshade, a pl-l clip, and a screw. Sadly the lampshades I use here are the opposite curve to what I really need, but it helps not to waste all that light at this early stage anyway. Even though the delta fan is on 5v, it kicks out a shitload of air, and now it all funnels up through the hole in the top of the shade, and past that hot base. It keeps the base cool enough to hold, which is pretty impressive for that bulb! Anyway, here 'tis mon.
Peace.
Edit: shit, I can't flip the seedlings yet, I have to repot first. This is probably the world's noobiest question but how big of a pot should I be looking at here? Would 2 litres be enough? Thanks.
Edit edit: Bio-Bugs!
# Prevents and cures Pythium, Phytophora, Ryzoctoria nematodes and dozens more plant associated diseases.
# Superfast bacteria/ rapid 8 hour activation
# Turns organic matter into usable plant food
# Fully soluble mixture, suitable for misting
# Totally harmless to plants, fish, animals and humans
# Ensures the whitest, cleanest root structure possible
# Increases beneficial micro flora to hydroponic and soil
I was thinking it would be good to introduce to cloning mediums too...
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