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150w HPS Club and Resource Guide......
- Thread starter Pipedream
- Start date
G
Guest
would it be easier to cool two 100 watt hps (home depot sec. lights) or one 150? am checkin around for a good light setup but no luch so far. checked the links on the front page and maybe im just blind but couldnt find anythign either. i would prefer to not have to get it peice by peice. any sugestions on a light or setup would be good. gonna buy the lights first then build thecab around it( not sure the sizes of the lights yet)
darren,
econolight (link on front page) will sell you a flood light for a little more than the ballast kit and this will include everything you need but a power cord.
Alternately you can look for a floralux 150 - they're available at htgsupply (high tech garden supply) and other retailers they run around $100 and come complete with hood, ballast, lamp, and safety glass - these are the only reasonably priced 150 units out there made for growing.
Other than that Lowe's does cary the 150 flood lights and you can convert them using the link in my signature.
As for cooling - both a 150 and a 100 watt hps will be pretty easy to keep cool with just good air movement and remoting the ballasts - seeing as I love the 150 I would recommend going with the 150. Also there is this issue with non-capacitated lamps where they draw considerably more current then they use - this means that you could more easily overload the circuit because your two 100 watters will draw as much current as a 600 watter at startup - they won't us it - they'll just draw it - this means you could blow a fuse if your house's wiring isn't soo good or you have other items on the same circuit...
suga
econolight (link on front page) will sell you a flood light for a little more than the ballast kit and this will include everything you need but a power cord.
Alternately you can look for a floralux 150 - they're available at htgsupply (high tech garden supply) and other retailers they run around $100 and come complete with hood, ballast, lamp, and safety glass - these are the only reasonably priced 150 units out there made for growing.
Other than that Lowe's does cary the 150 flood lights and you can convert them using the link in my signature.
As for cooling - both a 150 and a 100 watt hps will be pretty easy to keep cool with just good air movement and remoting the ballasts - seeing as I love the 150 I would recommend going with the 150. Also there is this issue with non-capacitated lamps where they draw considerably more current then they use - this means that you could more easily overload the circuit because your two 100 watters will draw as much current as a 600 watter at startup - they won't us it - they'll just draw it - this means you could blow a fuse if your house's wiring isn't soo good or you have other items on the same circuit...
suga
Q_ba1
Member
Results of buds selections, I have made three selections in first few weeks of flowering. Some buds are very heavy and 2 stems of one plant has been broken today... but it shouldnt be a crisis for this plant... i hope.. whatever was my full 
The biggest one
That one has got 2 broken stems
Yellow leafs, those buds grow in dark under other plants leafs
Twisted bud, hst result but only one, any other grow all right
Triplets
And massy twins :yummy
My mobile phone is seriously sticky after todays photo session, my hands too of course
The biggest one
That one has got 2 broken stems
Yellow leafs, those buds grow in dark under other plants leafs
Twisted bud, hst result but only one, any other grow all right
Triplets
And massy twins :yummy
My mobile phone is seriously sticky after todays photo session, my hands too of course
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G
Guest
ohh ok so a flood light has a hps bulb? someoen once told em that they werent good...guess i was given bad info
and do these floodlights still have the thing in it to make it auto shut off? i think its called light sensor..it didnt say on the page.
i know i prolly soundlike and idiot but i wanna get all the info i can from others who have used the same product.. 
and do these floodlights still have the thing in it to make it auto shut off? i think its called light sensor..it didnt say on the page.
i know i prolly soundlike and idiot but i wanna get all the info i can from others who have used the same product..
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yes not all floodlights are hid - many are halogen which is no good. You need to look for one that specificly says 150 hps.... I got mine at Lowe's for around 80 - it was a a compact flood lamp by regent.
invision things look good - just remember the buds need room to grow too, also you want to get down to 4-8 bud sites per square foot or else you'll get alot of popcorn buds
Q_bal - looking nice - I got a pack of those skunk specials in my fridge, watching ur grow makes me want to start them.
hope all my 150 friends have a good day!
suga
invision things look good - just remember the buds need room to grow too, also you want to get down to 4-8 bud sites per square foot or else you'll get alot of popcorn buds
Q_bal - looking nice - I got a pack of those skunk specials in my fridge, watching ur grow makes me want to start them.
hope all my 150 friends have a good day!
suga
G
Guest
Hello 150ers
Well to start off I just wanted to thank all the contributors to this thread.I was growing in a small frig with a 70w HPS. It was given to me by a good friend and was a good box to start with. I'll be giving it to an other friend (to return the favor).
I just built a 150 HPS box and wanted to show everybody.
I started with a 4' x 2' x 6' cabinet and cut the top and bottom pieces
to make it 2' x 2' x 6.
Next, I built the inner walls.
I added the back inner wall and started making the "wind tunnels" for the in & outtake airports.
When done with that I placed the back cover.
I then painted and caulked the inside of the box.
I added the middle self (which has the "wind tunnel" design also) and put all the parts for the flowering section. The box is very quiet. I'm using a 110 cfm bath fan and have installed a dimmer switch to control its speed for heat, sound and humidity.
Since the Light is in a fixed place, I installed a shelf (with a wire rack for air movement). It can be raised 1 inch at a time to keep the tops as close to the lights as needed.
After that I installed the lights and timer for the mother & clone section. This space is about 20" high and I'll be using the "Bonsai Mother" technique to keep them short.
Then the front wall was installed.
The box doors were added.
*Thanks to NG2k for the design cues.
**Thanks to all of you (too many to name) for blazing a trail for the rest to follow.
Well what do you guys think?
I have some seeds germming right now, Belle Donna. And will keep the thread posted on my grow.
Thanks again.
Well to start off I just wanted to thank all the contributors to this thread.I was growing in a small frig with a 70w HPS. It was given to me by a good friend and was a good box to start with. I'll be giving it to an other friend (to return the favor).
I just built a 150 HPS box and wanted to show everybody.
I started with a 4' x 2' x 6' cabinet and cut the top and bottom pieces
to make it 2' x 2' x 6.
Next, I built the inner walls.
I added the back inner wall and started making the "wind tunnels" for the in & outtake airports.
When done with that I placed the back cover.
I then painted and caulked the inside of the box.
I added the middle self (which has the "wind tunnel" design also) and put all the parts for the flowering section. The box is very quiet. I'm using a 110 cfm bath fan and have installed a dimmer switch to control its speed for heat, sound and humidity.
Since the Light is in a fixed place, I installed a shelf (with a wire rack for air movement). It can be raised 1 inch at a time to keep the tops as close to the lights as needed.
After that I installed the lights and timer for the mother & clone section. This space is about 20" high and I'll be using the "Bonsai Mother" technique to keep them short.
Then the front wall was installed.
The box doors were added.
*Thanks to NG2k for the design cues.
**Thanks to all of you (too many to name) for blazing a trail for the rest to follow.
Well what do you guys think?
I have some seeds germming right now, Belle Donna. And will keep the thread posted on my grow.
Thanks again.
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Heero007 - nice cabinet bro! and welcome to the club 
G
Guest
That is a sweet cabinet Heero007. I like the intake baffle system. Everything looks very organized and thoughtfully designed. The outside even looks great. With a 2' x 2' footprint you could go to a 250w if you decide to upgrade again someday. You did eventually upgrade from a 70w. This box has great potential because of the 4 sq ft area and with a mom room. I see a super 4 foot square SCROG or great SOG in your future.
your box looks nice and tidy, well-built too !
i read that you shouldnt use a dimmer switch to control fan speed. there's an actual "fan speed controller" used for that purpose. in fact, i read that even THAT is not safe so i stopped using one. when it comes to safety, i like to err on the side of caution.
i read that you shouldnt use a dimmer switch to control fan speed. there's an actual "fan speed controller" used for that purpose. in fact, i read that even THAT is not safe so i stopped using one. when it comes to safety, i like to err on the side of caution.
Yep, awesome cab Heero007!
damn q-bal those look great - how many days of flower?
NG2k
Member
hey all....
i finally managed to get a 150W HPS over here (UK)
on my ballast it has 2 voltage settings. 240V and 230V.... it is prewired to 240V which i understand is correct, i cant really see any reason to take it down to 230V.
also on the bulb socket, which is Live and which is Neutral? i am just guessing but is the terminal which goes to the centre of the bulb the live and the outer screw fixing the Neutral?
thanks guys.... will be joining ya all soon
i finally managed to get a 150W HPS over here (UK)
on my ballast it has 2 voltage settings. 240V and 230V.... it is prewired to 240V which i understand is correct, i cant really see any reason to take it down to 230V.
also on the bulb socket, which is Live and which is Neutral? i am just guessing but is the terminal which goes to the centre of the bulb the live and the outer screw fixing the Neutral?
thanks guys.... will be joining ya all soon
G
Guest
Thanks for the welcome, all the comments and advice.
-Q_ba1
Love the pix of your garden. Just one question; how tall are the plants in your grow? I have a height restriction of three feet in my flower camber and was considering flowering the bd as soon as they are about 6" max.
-sugabear_II
Love the pix of your garden as well. Almost the same question; how much more did the plants grow after they went though the screen?
I plan on using a SOG method (I can fit about 6 plants in 6" pots or 3 in 8" pots) to start with and will try a SCROG if the height becomes a problem in the SOG.
-Tarzan of THC
I posted the rough outside measurements. To be exact, it is 19 1/2" x 23 1/2" x 71 1/2". The inside measurements are a lot less because of the baffles. The footprint for them are 14" x 20", which is a tad less than 2 sq. ft.
-green_grow
Yes. The dimmer switch is not working as well as i hoped. The fan only will come on with the switch at 2/3s or more and sputters at anything less. I'll take your advice and pull it out.
-Q_ba1
Love the pix of your garden. Just one question; how tall are the plants in your grow? I have a height restriction of three feet in my flower camber and was considering flowering the bd as soon as they are about 6" max.
-sugabear_II
Love the pix of your garden as well. Almost the same question; how much more did the plants grow after they went though the screen?
I plan on using a SOG method (I can fit about 6 plants in 6" pots or 3 in 8" pots) to start with and will try a SCROG if the height becomes a problem in the SOG.
-Tarzan of THC
I posted the rough outside measurements. To be exact, it is 19 1/2" x 23 1/2" x 71 1/2". The inside measurements are a lot less because of the baffles. The footprint for them are 14" x 20", which is a tad less than 2 sq. ft.
-green_grow
Yes. The dimmer switch is not working as well as i hoped. The fan only will come on with the switch at 2/3s or more and sputters at anything less. I'll take your advice and pull it out.
