Whats up with my roots?

[inreplyavalon]

I discovered the met52 has an expiration date of 3 months after manufacture. It also says in the literature to use soon after opening the package. Unfortunately the woman i bought it from mentioned none of this and not only did i buy a years worth, but it was well over three months after the manufacture date when i received it. I just sent my second email to the supplier and they claim to have not known and are looking into it. They did not respond to my first email. Lady seemed nice and helpful when i got it, even sent it before she received payment. I'll update with more info as i obtain it.
Not really sure how it is working for me. Found some aphid damage in a keg cup that i added the met to. Also used about 2x the recommended dose in my 5 gallons when i up potted from 1 gallons. two weeks later and it looks like the fungus is about twice the size of the initial size of the rice it comes on. My point is that it seems to grow pretty slowly and if the pots big it seems like it will be a while before the aphids are bumping into the stuff. Hate to be the skeptic but these buggers have discouraged me.
Good luck y'all

 

[Ptone]

I nuked my plants with 40ml/g Bayer Shrub and Tree
%.78 IMID then applied the Met52 as a preventitive. Along with Yellow sticy traps for "Flyers". Haven't seen one aphid since and I had multiple people on the forum tell me to tear down and start over.

 

[inreplyavalon]

I nuked my plants with 40ml/g Bayer Shrub and Tree
%.78 IMID then applied the Met52 as a preventitive. Along with Yellow sticy traps for "Flyers". Haven't seen one aphid since and I had multiple people on the forum tell me to tear down and start over.

Thats great, glad to hear it.
Are you in flower? what week are you on?

 

[Ptone]

flowering week 6. check out my sig

 

[MacGyver420]

..

 

[Granger2]

Mac,
Yay. Glad your salvaging a crop. I plan to post some pics soon, but my old camera is the issue. Right now everything has turned a corner. They're really healthy, growing fast, and are on day 5 of 12/12. I'll still get a really good crop if all continues to go well. No sign of RA's, currently. The bad thing is extra expense, a 3 month delay, and possible loss of some of my genetics if I don't get cuttings to root soon.

A lot of people give up too soon I think where genetics are at stake. Plants, even in really bad shape, can still be saved. Good luck. -granger

 

[High Country]

I guess that is the the way it is in the plant world...sometimes they co-operate...other times not.

Many plants will produce millions of seeds at maturity...if 1% germinate they are doing well. Other seedlings, or clones in our respect, will expire for a multitude of reasons, be it genetics, environmental issues or getting eaten by a goat.

Don't lose any sleep over it.

 

[Guest 88950]

Worm Castings.......ftw

Worm Castings.......ftw

just wanted to re-post this........fresh Worm Castings worked on RA's and my cut of Chem was saved along with my other girls.

its worth a try for those unable to get the Met52.




Originally Posted by zor
re: organics

One thing i found interesting when i was battling the aphids was that an enzyme is produced by a microbe in worm castings at the root zone. This is chitlinase ? It is an enzyme that breaks down the chitlin shell of certain insects. This is supposed to make the roots less palatable to the aphids. Perhaps, this type of process is responsible for living soil mixes less suceptible to aphids?

This made me recall a plant that was topdressed with castings even before i knew i had aphids. This plant indeed did way better than the plain coco with no castings.

I'm wondering if a mixture of castings and diatomaceous earth in coco could help in the prevention of ifnfection.

2-3 wks prior to reading this i tranplanted my chem cut into 100% fresh worm castings b/c it was taking a beating from RA's. the chem was in a solo cup in 100% coco and wasnt sure transplanting to WC would do anything but it did.

ive always added a bunch of powder DE into my coco and i added more DE as topdress to my girls in flower and let the get really dry between watering and this kept them at bay but my harvest sucked. i also kept temps below 80 F and RH ~ 40%.


just want to re-post my success with WC, i saved a cherished cut. not saying wc will eliminate them but i dont see any so its working for me. i want to get the met52 also, dont want this problem ever again.

 

[inreplyavalon]

This is the follow up information from my last post. What i have surmised is that if its kept under a vacuum seal it can last up to 12 months or more.
Seems folks are having success with it.

what does it look like in YOUR medium after a few weeks? In mine it has turned the size of a nickel of furry mold. not sure if its the rice/grain that it comes on, molding, or the met52 spreading out?

""""In a unopened original Novozymes 10KG (22lb) bag, the product has a one year shelf life. The bags we shipped you were all produced in May 2011, so there is 6 months remaining on guarantee. We have done studies past two year storage and the titer on spore viability is still very close to original counts. We also don’t guarantee our product if has been repacked into another package for resell or storage.

The language "Met52 Granular Bioinsecticide consists of living microbes. Store closed product in a cool dry place at +4°C. Unopened product has a viable shelf-life of 3 months from date of manufacture. Do not freeze or expose product to temperatures above 22°C." is from an old Canadian label not sure how he came across that and ne label no longer carries that statement (see below).

Not sure where he got that label- off internet maybe, but I want you to re-confirm that the product you have been selling has the attached label and is not a Black and Red one with both English and French text. We are shipping this out of Canada to Milwaukee as you know, but the old label was discontinued when new brand packaging was created over 10 months ago.

Here is the storage life language on the current US label attached and text from Canadian:

Current US Label:



Storage and disposal- Do not contaminate water, food, or feed by storage or disposal. Pesticide storage- Store Met52 Granular Bioinsecticide in its original container below 73 °F (23 °C) in a dry, locked place out of reach of children and out of direct sunlight. Do not use or store near heat or open flame. Use product within one year and by the expiry date noted on the label. Pesticide disposal and container handling- Nonrefillable container. Do not reuse or refill container. If empty: Place container in trash, or offer for recycling, if available. If partly filled: Call your local solid waste agency for disposal instructions. Never place unused product down any indoor or outdoor drain.



Current Canadian Label:

STORAGE: Keep in original container during storage. Store product in cool, dry, well-ventilated place away from seed, feed, fertilizer, or other pesticides. Keep away from direct sunlight, fire or open flame, or other source of heat. Met52 Granular Bioinsecticide consists of living microbes. Store closed product in a cool dry place at <23 °C. Unopened product has a viable shelf life of 12 months from date of manufacture. Exposing product to temperatures up to 35 °C will reduce the shelf-life to 1 month. Do not freeze."""

 

[spearzy]

id use beneficials on potting up plant magic granules are realy good

what you do is in the hole where u are potting ur plant sprinkle about a tea spoon in and then pot your plant as normal you can also use their veg boost to feed the beneficials for a quick boost and take off of the cuttings/seedlings.

there are other simmilar products like great white ect that will keep your roots in good shape.

spearzy

 

[spearzy]

id use beneficials on potting up plant magic granules are realy good

what you do is in the hole where u are potting ur plant sprinkle about a tea spoon in and then pot your plant as normal you can also use their veg boost to feed the beneficials for a quick boost and take off of the cuttings/seedlings.

there are other simmilar products like great white ect that will keep your roots in good shape.

spearzy

also bug clear ultra would take care of any aphids it lives sytsemically in the plant so best used early in veg.

but you have to use the concentrate not the premade spray.

spearzy.

 

[inreplyavalon]

I switched my entire system to beneficials and a live reservoir and it had negligible effect on the aphids. They continued to destroy. Thats not to say they would not have done better were they started in beneficials and it were used more as a preventative, but when you already got aphids i would focus on another method.

 

[spearzy]

I switched my entire system to beneficials and a live reservoir and it had negligible effect on the aphids. They continued to destroy. Thats not to say they would not have done better were they started in beneficials and it were used more as a preventative, but when you already got aphids i would focus on another method.

i wonder if bug clear ultra concentrate would clear them

i know it gets rid of thrips mites ect.

ive never had root aphids myself.

spearzy

 

[40AmpstoFreedom]

I am using Met 52 with success currently. We will see if it is official after this next coming harvest I initiate flower in 2 weeks. So far my RA's want absolutely nothing to do with the met 52. When I added it they all moved to some tiny indoor plants in the kitchen and have since not been seen after I added the met to those as well. My Met 52 from same supplier is clearly active as it the rice pebbles turn to spores after water is added to it. I added my met 52 4-5 weeks into flowering my last run and 2/3 of my plants finished normal while 1/3 were clearly ravaged by the RA's but still were able to finish.

I will report back in 6-7 weeks into flowering when I will know if it has worked 100%. So far it allowed me to complete a harvest and ran the RA's away completely from site. I can't believe I have finally been able to get a decent harvest!

I add to the bottom middle and top of my pots this flowering round out of paranoia. To finish my previous infected grow I only added to the top and seemed to work just fine.

PS the RA's are definitely in my coco. I stored my CoCo in a different room and there was an RA on the coco bag...

 

[MacGyver420]

..

 

[40AmpstoFreedom]

I bought new CoCo yesterday and it was full of root aphid colonies. The colonies look exactly like Mycorizhae and are often mistaken for myco (spelling?). Learned this from a university website with detailed pictures. I thought maybe they started inoculating the coco with myco, but it is indeed root aphids.

If you see this in your CoCo it is your future doom.

I am going to trust the University of Connecticut and buy a bottle of of this stuff on top of the met 52 I am using.

http://www.hort.uconn.edu/ipm/general/htms/bassiana.htm

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Beauveria_bassiana

I just want everyone to know most of your infections are coming from previously infected medium. 100% confirmed now. I also want to say as I have previously it is not just CoCo I have read many from all types of organics soil.

PS Met 52 is working on a liquid form of their product vs the rice grain pebbles which should be significantly more effective for our growing situation. Hope it is released relatively soon but I heard November which is a long ways off.

I also found this article by Ed Rosenthal shortly after finding the university sites:

Root aphids
By Ed Rosenthal - Tuesday, September 27 2005
Tags:

Ask Ed
CC55
GROWING
Pests

How can I eliminate root aphids?

I have root aphids and have not been able to figure out how to get rid of them. What do you recommend?
Jack,
Internet

Root aphids are a serious problem and they are not easy to get rid of. A serious infection occurred in a controlled indoor plant nursery. We never discovered how the infection began. No outdoor plants were ever admitted except as bare cuttings that were first quarantined; new plants were started in synthetic planting mixes and only sterile planting mixes were used. Nevertheless, the very agile hard coated black insect, 1/16" in length, invaded the rooting medium and could be seen scurrying into hiding. It was identified as an aphid, but I thought looked more like a beetle.

Three ingredients were used to eliminate the insect under the "zero tolerance" policy of the nursery.

Liquid pyrethrum concentrate was mixed into the water/nutrient mix. Pyrethrum is an organic pesticide refined from flowers in the chrysanthemum family. There are a number of brands available in nurseries and garden shops but you may have to go online to find a liquid concentrate.

Botanigard is a specific virulent species of fungus that infects soft-bodied insects. When a possible host insect brushes against the fungus spore, the spore attaches itself to the insect. Then it grows hyphae, which are simple thread-like filaments, into the body of the insect and starts feeding on the insect. When the insect dies it releases more fungus spores that are ready to germinate when they come in contact with a suitable host such as another root aphid. It is available at a few shops and online.

Beneficial nematodes are microscopic carnivores that attack all kinds of insects in all stages of growth. Once the nematodes come in contact with the insect, whether adult or pupae, it is walking dead. After the feast, the nematodes do just what you'd expect, so thousands more hungry nematodes enter the scene looking for a good meal. They are available in both garden shops and on the internet.

I too have found pyrethrins to be very effective both foggers and drenches. I will give botanigard a try as well.

I found this site also which restates almost everything from the university site on eHow which I thought was funny:

Instructions
Things You'll Need

Nematodes
Spray bottle
Beauveria bassiana
Organic pyrethrum
Azadirachtin

1

Mix one packet of nematodes with 1 gallon of water. Fill a spray bottle with this mixture and saturate your plant soil with it. The nematodes will find the root aphids for you and kill them from the inside out. Nematodes are safe for use around plants, pets and people.
2

Administer an insecticide with the active ingredient beauveria bassiana. Beauveria bassiana is a fungus that infects and kills root aphids. It will not cause any harm to the plant. Be sure to follow all the instructions on the product label for effectiveness and safety.
3

Spray the plant soil with an organic pyrethrum. This all-natural insecticide is made from dried chrysanthemums. It is a good choice for killing root aphids if the affected plant is a houseplant. This is because it is safe to use around children and pets. Be sure to follow the product label to completely eradicate the root aphids.
4

Mix an insecticide with the active ingredient azadirachtin with water based on the product's instruction label. Azadirachtin is organic and works to kill root aphids by preventing them from eating or molting. Eventually, they become paralyzed and die.


Read more: How to Kill Root Aphids | eHow.com http://www.ehow.com/how_8620852_kill-root-aphids.html#ixzz1gdGpTnzc

 

[pinecone]

I bought new CoCo yesterday and it was full of root aphid colonies. The colonies look exactly like Mycorizhae and are often mistaken for myco (spelling?). Learned this from a university website with detailed pictures. I thought maybe they started inoculating the coco with myco, but it is indeed root aphids.

What in the heck are root aphids that presumably feed on root juices doing hanging around in bagged coco with no live roots present? Do they feed on other stuff as well?

Pine

 

[ChaosCatalunya]

Has anybody used DE and still had the problem ?

Yellow sticky traps seem very low fi, but do work to some extent, all helps IMO.

 

[40AmpstoFreedom]

What in the heck are root aphids that presumably feed on root juices doing hanging around in bagged coco with no live roots present? Do they feed on other stuff as well?

Pine

/shrug no idea ;\ I am really frustrated with these things though.

 

[farmdalefurr]

what brand of coco did that shit come in?

please dont say cocogro...