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Whats up with my roots?

inreplyavalon

breathe deep
Veteran
Can't you just put a little spinosad in your water? That should kill them and since it is systemic it should protect the leaves too. It is also organic. I use about 5-10 ml per gallon a few feedings and that seems to hold the bugs back, but there is no recommended dosage. I got the idea of feeding it because of a study with rockwool, tomatoes, and spidermites. There are also plenty of people that use it as a drench. You could also use mosquito dunks, but the spinosad will kill 'em all.

I believe folks have tried spinosad on root aphids and it did not work. Also mosquito dunks only piss them off. At this point the only thing folks are saying completely works is this met52. Everything else seems to reduce their numbers but they stick around until the time is right and then crush harvests.
 

Granger2

Active member
Veteran
I've had good luck with Spinosad. The brand I use is GreenLight @2 oz/gal. No phytotoxicity. Will drench with it mañana. It keeps their numbers down at least. I'm going to use it approx. weekly for this run, and inspect them at the end. Spinosad is not a nematicide. I'm also using beneficial nematodes, which I think will give sustained control. I will report. -granger
 

3dDream

Matter that Appreciates Matter
Veteran
Yeah, a spray at the top and a soak/feed at the bottom usually gets my ladies back to a good place.
 
G

Guest 88950

re: organics

One thing i found interesting when i was battling the aphids was that an enzyme is produced by a microbe in worm castings at the root zone. This is chitlinase ? It is an enzyme that breaks down the chitlin shell of certain insects. This is supposed to make the roots less palatable to the aphids. Perhaps, this type of process is responsible for living soil mixes less suceptible to aphids?

This made me recall a plant that was topdressed with castings even before i knew i had aphids. This plant indeed did way better than the plain coco with no castings.

I'm wondering if a mixture of castings and diatomaceous earth in coco could help in the prevention of ifnfection.




2-3 wks prior to reading this i tranplanted my chem cut into 100% fresh worm castings b/c it was taking a beating from RA's. the chem was in a solo cup in 100% coco and wasnt sure transplanting to WC would do anything but it did.

ive always added a bunch of powder DE into my coco and i added more DE as topdress to my girls in flower and let the get really dry between watering and this kept them at bay but my harvest sucked. i also kept temps below 80 F and RH ~ 40%.


just want to re-post my success with WC, i saved a cherished cut. not saying wc will eliminate them but i dont see any so its working for me. i want to get the met52 also, dont want this problem ever again.
 

Green lung

Active member
Veteran
i dont have root aphids; but im going to continue posting in this thread; SOMETHING is really fucking up my coco plants;

plants have completely stopped all growth; they havent grown in size in nearly 2 weeks just totally stopped all growth
all new growth is totally 100% yellow

where they would normally root into these pots within a week and need water at least every other day..... they have yet to even fill 50% with roots and they are still very wet 4 days after i water them..

i would post some pictures but its just a sad sad sight....

i have changed nothing from my last grows... plants are just ruined... im ready to give up....

what on earth could cause this other than bugs. i know there are no bugs; i have spent probably 2 hours looking into a 30x scope examining my plants roots; i broke open an entire root-ball and found no bugs; just a complete lack of any root system....

overwatering.........soggy medium, slow root growth, low oxygen, == root rot type of environment
 
I'm no expert here but have been learning coco for a couple of runs now and was getting good results..excellent results with cloning in coco. I've been following this a bit because I've noticed the same effects going on in my garden....Just when I think I've finally got something good going here I get floored with some other issue sigh.... My veg just quit growing, clones just stumped with the little white salt looking formation on the stems. So frustrating. After talking with some of the locals here I've been inclined to think it's a seasonal change in the water from my well. I use 1/2 ro and 1/2 well. So I eliminated the well h2o and voila I've got nice looking clones again, my veg plants are very slow to recover but they are doing better. Running all canna this round so just food for thought.
 
M

MacGyver420

overwatering.........soggy medium, slow root growth, low oxygen, == root rot type of environment

assuming it is overwatering;

what is the gameplan for recovery?

i have a bottle of 29% h202 i plan on using at 7ml / gallon once the pots get bone dry; i have been waiting and waiting for the pots to dry out;

would feeding my plants with a light foilar spray help things out?
 

inreplyavalon

breathe deep
Veteran
assuming it is overwatering;

what is the gameplan for recovery?

i have a bottle of 29% h202 i plan on using at 7ml / gallon once the pots get bone dry; i have been waiting and waiting for the pots to dry out;

would feeding my plants with a light foilar spray help things out?

You might want to pick up an enzyme product to use in conjunction with the h202. Help clean up any dead matter.
When you look at a root under a 30x scope, describe what you see.

Yeah you could feed them with a spray, if they look like they need it. I would back the light off whilke you are figuring out what you want to do.

Its good to consider everything, but until you have found the problem, don't rule any out. A few microscopic aphids in a pot can fook sheet up. A tell tale sign would be a white substance on some roots. My first sign of problem was a complete stop of growth in veg, plants looked perfect, just stopped drinking and growing. Found the bugs 5 months later after tossing many plants.

It could be overwatering as green lung suggested. How long have you grown in coco and are you confident in your watering skills?
 
G

Guest 88950

definitly not RA's.............good thing.

the slight clawing make's me think too much N.

what about ph, is you ph pen calibrated or maybe broken.

good luck
 

Ottoman

Color me gone
Veteran
Try roots excelurator, it kills root rot while promoting new stronger root growth. It's sorta of expensive to buy but extremely reasonable once you realize you only need 1ml per gal of the stuff and it works magic. I use it in just about every feeding from seedling til about week 3 flowering. Its made by House and Garden best of luck....
 

40AmpstoFreedom

Well-known member
ICMag Donor
Veteran
I second the above and House and Garden also makes drip clean which I highly recommend for coco only need 2.5 ml per 5 gallons lasts forever. I love H&G products so far.

If you had RA's you would have bad mag deficiencies and I am only seeing over water like you say.
 

Granger2

Active member
Veteran
Mac,
I think you've got it figured out, and have a good strategy. I would still hit it [after transplanting] about 3 times with H2O2, but at the rate of 1 Tbl/gal of *3%*. If you use 29% use 1/10th as much. Then I would re-inoculate with Plant Success soluble or some other product with mychorrizal, tricoderma, and beneficial bacteria. Good luck. -granger
 

Green lung

Active member
Veteran
Y ou can let coco dry out quite a bit in veg I wouldn't advise it to much in flower, but def in veg treat the coco like soil and let those roots fill out and than you can start watering more and more depending on how your roots are filling out the pot.

Good move with the perlite I also like to put a nice layer at the bottom of the pot.

I have noticed it takes longer for roots to fill out pots with straight coco compared with perlite mixture and they were more easily overwater/under oxygen.



Imo coco like its best when its moist but not soaked but also not dry(bad in flower not so big of deal in veg)

I think drip systems are best because they don't dump all the days water at once but just keep the coco a certain moisture level all day.

If you hand water like me you just want to keep a certain moisture level if you can but in veg its better do let it dry to much than to water log them imo they key is not watering to much where the roots don't want to fill out and kinda go into a stasis and eventually cause rust spots, ph problems, crunchy leaves all kind of bad shit. Often times you can tell just by the weight of the pot.......really heavy.


Runoff is not that important in veg IMO. In veg I use saucers like soil pots and water to minimal runoof. But in Flower its best IMO to to lift those pots out of runoff and water to runoff. It can be done succesfully but you have make sure roots never sit in runoff water IMO.



I have been rambling here but rootzones are fuckin interesting lol
 
G

Guest 88950

interesting on the DE. i use the fine powder DE and i use alot to combat gnats and other bugs, i dont measure just add until the coco is a lighter color.

i top dressed it a while back............mistake. it clumped up like wet flour and drainage was poor.


the DE will always be added to my coco for bug control and the silica.


good luck bro
 

Granger2

Active member
Veteran
Hello Buds,
I had [have?] root aphids which caused great harm to everything I have. I only lost one strain. It has caused me to lose close to 3 months and has been real annoying.

I decided to fight them organically, and in an earlier post, I said I would report. I've decided to make a new thread and turn it into a grow journal. I'll post in a couple of days. I transplanted 6 plants about 3 weeks ago from green 6" nursery pots to 3 gal EJ Aero Bags. Friday night I transplanted the rest and saw no evidence of RA's. I'm much calmer and happier now. Talk soon. -granger
 

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