Timing is huge! When to use all this organic stuff.

[DARC MIND]

my own cultivar has a much more pronounced (tropical) sativa phenotype than the Central Americans that were supposed to and they actually withstood the burning much better.

MM
imo the guers had to come from a good farm-line as all looked very similar..bushy,pretty damn close internode, nice yielding strain.no problems with pest,no hermies,handled drought,wind,rain &
reaped hefty size colitas w/ a bushy sativa structure

also i would like to note that when growing regional exports and or domestic sale products like these,we must take into account that ther doubtedly free from hybridization..
export herb ranges from family heirlooms to commercial hybrids, along with the countless microclimates in any specific region ther farmd!
specially inexpensive commercial bulk lines, whether hybrids of dif s.american lines,different tropicals/regions or between wide and narrow leafed varieties...

 

[SkunkPatronus]

Yes that is all. Not mixed in. Topdressed yes.

Do you ever 'poke' stuff into your bed, using like a dibble? I have found that to work for like a local store of something added, that needed to be added, but not disseminated all over.

 

[OrganicLearner]

MM

MM

Just planted in a bed which is 8' x 24' x 33" deep.

Hey MM is there a specific reason you made the raised bed 33" deep? Like is there more potential for more species of microbial beings or something with that much depth?

 

[vapor]

Timing is everything with organics. The amount of ferts matters in the end. Vegetables that's a different animal. I have found that i like my herb to cannibalize all the nutrients i give them. yellow is the new green....pictures starting at day 50 of flower and going to day 85, you can watch them as they eat it all up. getting the right amount has taken some time, and is a personal preference. I like the ash to be nice and clean and taste the flowers beauty. Being able to smoke your weed 4 or 5 days of the drying line lets you experience terps that a lot of folks miss. Most of the organic mixes i started out with where just way too much in the end, so after much refinement, we find the place we like....

 

[ziggestardust]

Do you ever 'poke' stuff into your bed, using like a dibble? I have found that to work for like a local store of something added, that needed to be added, but not disseminated all over.

I have been thinking about this approach. Right now I make small compost piles about the size of a plastic kitchen bowl filled with canna leaves, amendments and compost since I am short of a device to poke holes in the dirt with.

 

[MileHighGuy]

I would never spike or poke something in the soil.

Top Dress.

 

[ziggestardust]

I would never spike or poke something in the soil.

Top Dress.

I'm always afraid of drying out the top dressing hence killing the life in it. That's why I make piles. Are my assumptions wrong?

 

[BlueJayWay]

mix your amendments to be topdressed with (vermi)compost and if you want work it into the top layer with your fingers. Breaks down quicker and no worry about a pile of 'whatever' drying up or molding just sittin there on top of the soil....

 

[VerdantGreen]

Yes that is all. Not mixed in. Topdressed yes.

interesting, i cant say ive ever seen any detriment to mixing my ferts into the soil, but i may try topdressing for comparison.

 

[Microbeman]

I personally have found it can rob nutrients.

http://www.gardening.cornell.edu/factsheets/orgmatter/

Using manure: Manures differ from each other because of their source, their age, how they were stored (piled, spread, turned over or not), and the animal bedding material, which may be mixed in. For that reason it is difficult to provide precise guidance about how long manure should be aged before use, or how much to use.

Composting is the safest way to make the most of manure's nutritional potential - if the logistics of making and hauling compost are viable. For direct use in the garden, first aging manure for 6 months is a good rule of thumb. Many farmers and gardeners spread fresh manure in the fall or winter, and till or turn it in at spring planting time.

When manure is spread in the spring, even if aged, it is safest to wait for at least one month before planting crops, since the microbial activity it stimulates may interfere with seed germination or plant growth before that time.

When composted manure is spread directly over the soil, it is helpful to add about 40 lbs. per 100 square feet, turned into the top 6 to 9 inches. Aged manure is often used in home vegetable gardens as a side-dressing, or placed directly in holes under the soil where vine crops such as pumpkins are planted.

The relatively high nitrogen content makes manure extremely valuable in composting, where it activates soil bacteria and contributes to rapid decomposition of organic matter. But, as a direct soil amendment, that same high nitrogen content can be a deficit. Fresh, raw, or hot manure activates and builds up soil microbial activity to the extent that the nutrients volatilize, or burn up, before plants can use them.

 

[mapinguari]

Timing is everything with organics. The amount of ferts matters in the end. Vegetables that's a different animal. I have found that i like my herb to cannibalize all the nutrients i give them. yellow is the new green....pictures starting at day 50 of flower and going to day 85, you can watch them as they eat it all up. getting the right amount has taken some time, and is a personal preference. I like the ash to be nice and clean and taste the flowers beauty. Being able to smoke your weed 4 or 5 days of the drying line lets you experience terps that a lot of folks miss. Most of the organic mixes i started out with where just way too much in the end, so after much refinement, we find the place we like....

It's too bad that someone "neg repped" you on this one.

That's a missed chance for an interesting discussion about senescence and nutrients.

I think there's already been some discussion in this thread (or mebbe the ROLS one?), and I am hoping people will take it past personal preference to kicking some knowledge (scientific papers / detailed observation / whatever else) that can help us see this issue more clearly.

Cheers!

 

[Microbeman]

It's too bad that someone "neg repped" you on this one.

That's a missed chance for an interesting discussion about senescence and nutrients.

I think there's already been some discussion in this thread (or mebbe the ROLS one?), and I am hoping people will take it past personal preference to kicking some knowledge (scientific papers / detailed observation / whatever else) that can help us see this issue more clearly.

Cheers!

Old news, as I'm sure you know.

https://www.icmag.com/ic/showthread.php?t=190022&highlight=yellowing

 

[vapor]

Thats all well and nice microbeman. But the proof is in the end product, almost 10 years of folks saying that it dont matter. Thats not my opinion, from what i smoke it does matter. most of our N comes from the atmosphere when minerals are in balance. Not just N but NPK the full meal deal they all matter in the end. All i am doing is going by my personal experiences.
So when i add to much ferts, well the end product does not burn nice and clean, or takes time to"cure" lol. When i reduce the nutrients, as per the plants i am growing. I find a "sweetspot" where i get good production and the plant uses/cannabalizes whats in the leaves/medium. Seems like every plant has different needs. Some sativas i have grown feed way more then a kush. some not so much.
The soil i use is 5 or so years old and i just keep reusing and adding organic amendments. lots worms and compost in the pots. I would love to have a gathering of the folks from the 2 or 3 different schools of thought. And see with bioassy who is on to what. All i know is what i have found in my own garden. And i can grow huge nugs with lots of organic amendments and rock dusts{they dont burn very nice}, but it does not hold a candle to the same plant when i grow it for the plants needs not mine..It has taken me many years of experimenting with ratios of ferts. I dont mind the negative rep cause some folks need to see with there own hands. The debate ends at a table with me and you and our buds. game on.

 

[Microbeman]

Vapor; I was not even talking to you and do not think I will. Just for the record, I have never given a negetive rep to anyone ever and never will. Besides that all I can say is 'sigh and bye'

 

[vapor]

okee dookee all i said to you microbman was "that's all well and nice" i even put your name at the end for you, who said anything about negative rep? The rest was towards the young fellar above you. I dont have time for pedistal dwellers anywho. Some folks are looking for the truth,growing and testing that everyday and some folks just want to be right. Buds on the table or shut it thanks!

 

[canna woop!]

Organic dried sea moss you can get at any health store around these parts, i am not sure what kind it is, i think it a kelp, you boil it and drink it, it goes good with brandy and oats sometimes milk blended, it comes with the sea salt on it so i boil it twice the first boil is salty so i dilute that and give it to the plants the second boil i drink my self any left overs go to the plants as well. Most my morning green tea ends up like this i just boil extra, lol.

I found some icelandic kelp at the pet store, but it's $60 for a kg... i doubt you pay that much? also do you find that boiling it works? as a supplement? I need to try this but the kelp i buy is next to azomite, it will take getting used to i guess? the flavor

 

[MileHighGuy]

Vapor.

Can you please explain how you prepare your soil for said starvation.

 

[bajangreen]

It doesn't say exactly witch sea weed it is on the package. I would have to get the price for you later. But it is used as a drink commercially your best bet would be a health food or maybe a chinese food store should be close to ginseng root.

It does taste nice, once you find the right amount.

 

[DARC MIND]

plenty get good to great results using the fancy bloom boosters,bennies, carbs and instantly available "organic" nutrient pushed methods....
thers nothing really new about the"feed the plant" approach,specially with the present gadgets & canna preferred peat/coco based mediums..

i hear the super redic amended mixes,end product,
seem to benefit from a good flush

 

[vapor]

Vapor.

Can you please explain how you prepare your soil for said starvation.

The goal. to have the little leaves on the inside of the buds to yellow as well as the big leaves.
This can be done, you need to run the plant a few times, and or have some experiences. For me i have grown said plants for years, many different ways many different ratios. You can look to the ideal soil book for a place to start in terms of how to balance nutrients.
So all you are doing is trying to get the right amount of nutrients in the medium for the plants life cycle, no more. For me i want to see fading on a longer sativa type around 40-50 daze flower. shorter flowering plant week mid to end week 4 flower. If your plants are healthy till those points they should have enough storage in there leaves to finish there life cycle. So we veg plants as big as we would like then i add my nutrients to soil/medium to cook for a month, then at the start of flower i up pot to the size the plant will need{this is where experience comes in dialing in} So i start with a certain amount of nutrients in balance that cannabis likes{cal/mag ratios can make a plant turn out completely different}. I grow out said plant and bioassy. If it need less or more it may be a matter of reducing the flowering pot size or increasing it. I use two mixes. One for heavy feeders, and one for kush types and 8-10 weekers. It comes down to personal taste. And having the plants yellow and drop all there leaves in a balanced fade, while maintaining bud growth you can still get a good yield and have nice clean buds. It is a learning curve thats all. And i wish more folks would take the time to do it and learn it, cause it makes a huge difference in the end product. As you learn to do this it becomes easier. I do organic amendments and vortex teas and compost etc but i know Salt feeders do this too just cut your feeding at week 5-6 for a 12 week flower and or week mid 4 for a 8-10 weeker Weed can be grown with salts or organics and be clean and great, but it is a matter of thinking on the plants level not our preference. most see yields as the marker but this is about quality. This usually means less yields{depends on growers skill level this changes} but better quality/ meds.
try it you might like it. that is a bit of my process
If you want a actual soil mix that i use i will post if you ask,,./