Thanks guys. I got the female from a neighbor who said it was Old Timer Haze but I'm not sure the male was a Frost for sure. Aloha DB
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The Search for Trip Weed
- Thread starter ThaiBliss
- Start date
Not at all man! I don't use a whole lot of nitrogen, but I don't start really dialing it back until it is solidly into flowering. If I had known this plant would go more than 6 months, I would not have started cutting it back so early. I also would not have paired it with something that got done in almost half the time.
Here is what mine looked like just as buds started forming. This was so long ago, I originally posted in this thread many pages back:
Jeez!
I don't even see any fan leaves yellowing until 3 months after the start of flowering:
ThaiBliss
Makes sense to do it like that,TB. Although in my experience it doesn't even matter if you let your plants yellow in the stretch. It happens to me sometimes, because 1) I grow a lot of different strains at the same time, 2) almost never grow the same strain twice, 3) I am lazy and do not tailor nutes to each individual plant's specific needs. It doesn't make for pretty pictures, but I really don't think it affects yield or quality.
Now this is something even lazy me would like to avoid though:
These are the Eldorado, 2046, Double Jam, Double Thai and Purple Haze x Thai I showed before, but in their new home. As you can see I am dealing with some yellowing in veg. At first I thought it was the cold nights, then considered overwatering but now I am thinking I am having trouble kick starting the soil life. It's the first time I've used this brand, and it may not be the best for organic growing.
Now this is something even lazy me would like to avoid though:
These are the Eldorado, 2046, Double Jam, Double Thai and Purple Haze x Thai I showed before, but in their new home. As you can see I am dealing with some yellowing in veg. At first I thought it was the cold nights, then considered overwatering but now I am thinking I am having trouble kick starting the soil life. It's the first time I've used this brand, and it may not be the best for organic growing.
Mostlyme, Id hit your plants with a dose of Urea to stop the yellowing, and I did some googling just now and Urea is considered Organic, although some may disagree. It will also have the added benefit of lowering your media pH, which could be useful as organic media can often trend upwards in pH over time.
Ive used it multiple times in my garden for media pH control and its worked excellent for me at up to 100% Urea. Id feed at 150-200 ppm N to treat your problem. Maybe the 150 for the more sativa in your group.
Ive used it multiple times in my garden for media pH control and its worked excellent for me at up to 100% Urea. Id feed at 150-200 ppm N to treat your problem. Maybe the 150 for the more sativa in your group.
Greetings,
I'm looking more closely at fox-tails today and from afar with the naked eye, it looks like the old parts are dying and turning reddish brown.
What is really happening is that the blanched out parts of the fox-tails have turned massively amber and look reddish brown from far away. Notice that many fox-tails still have fresh pistils pushing out.
See next post.
I'm looking more closely at fox-tails today and from afar with the naked eye, it looks like the old parts are dying and turning reddish brown.
What is really happening is that the blanched out parts of the fox-tails have turned massively amber and look reddish brown from far away. Notice that many fox-tails still have fresh pistils pushing out.
See next post.
Here are close-ups of those very same foxtails:
The first picture is of a brownish red one. The second was in the middle of one of those fox-tails with all colors. The third one is from one of the tops of the ones that still have green at the top.
I was going to try and hold out until all pistils had died on this plant, but I'm losing confidence with this strategy. At one point there were buds that had a limey cat piss incense smell that reminded me of Thai Stick. A fox-tail from that bud is now taking on a menthol aroma.
I'm seriously considering harvesting half now, and the other half when all pistils die.
ThaiBliss
The first picture is of a brownish red one. The second was in the middle of one of those fox-tails with all colors. The third one is from one of the tops of the ones that still have green at the top.
I was going to try and hold out until all pistils had died on this plant, but I'm losing confidence with this strategy. At one point there were buds that had a limey cat piss incense smell that reminded me of Thai Stick. A fox-tail from that bud is now taking on a menthol aroma.
I'm seriously considering harvesting half now, and the other half when all pistils die.
ThaiBliss
TB
DAMN BROTHER patience is a virtue ,She Looks SIC
I love those Foxtails that is something special
It looks like there is trichs starting to amber ,Soo id say its up to you have a smoke an see what you think .
Keep a close eye after all this time you deserve her at her prime
Much Respect
1luvbigherb
DAMN BROTHER patience is a virtue ,She Looks SIC
I love those Foxtails that is something special
It looks like there is trichs starting to amber ,Soo id say its up to you have a smoke an see what you think .
Keep a close eye after all this time you deserve her at her prime
Much Respect
1luvbigherb
Hi Dave,
I hesitate to disagree with an obviously very skilled and experienced grower like you, but I have a different diagnosis. I think my soil is too acidic. Nitrogen is absorbed best at pH 5.5-8.5, and I really don't think my (fresh) soil is above 8.5, while lower than 5.5 is a possibility: the manufacturer quotes pH 5.2-6.0 for the product.
To combat the problem, I watered with a suspension of lime and worm castings. The particles don't dissolve, but are small enough to penetrate the soils surfaces and distribute themselves throughout the container. This should help raising the pH towards an ideal 6.5.
Fingers crossed!
Hey were all allowed to disagree around here.
An acidic soil is one thing Ive never had to deal with as a grower. Its always been soil tending to the basic side ime. N deficiency can be caused by more than just a lack of N though. The usual culprits are under-watering, over-watering or just lack of N in the media. Watering in lime and castings will increase your pH as you already know. You'll also get some N bump from the EWC too. I hope that fixes your problem, but how old is the media your plants are in? If its fresh batch, Id have a hard time believing ph has shifted so much with your young plants. They're what around 3 weeks old?
Btw, do you own any meters to test your pH? If you do, invest in a hanna suction lysimeter and you'll fall in love with it. Ive been trying to get other growers here to try them out but no one wants to try it seems. Lol. If you guys only knew. They're as revolutionary for my garden as blumats have been.. If you want a good dual combo meter, my bluelab combo meter has been gold for 4 yrs now. EC always on the spot, and pH is too as long as I always remember to calibrate monthly with sachets. Dont waste your money on the large containers of calibration solution. Once opened, the shelf life begins ticking down.
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The other Thai Day 50
The other Thai Day 50
Ive kept the other sibling around even since discovering the sad surprise, and yet the plant has revealed another surprise since then. This lady? is flashing more pistils than the 'confirmed' female. I dont see any more pollen sacks developing any where on the plant at this point either. The few initial ones there were, I removed. Im gonna keep the plant around for awhile longer and go from there.
Whats an update without some pictures too of this pretty lady. Real budshots may begin in oh..2 months maybe at this pace. Please be patient with me.
The other Thai Day 50
Ive kept the other sibling around even since discovering the sad surprise, and yet the plant has revealed another surprise since then. This lady? is flashing more pistils than the 'confirmed' female. I dont see any more pollen sacks developing any where on the plant at this point either. The few initial ones there were, I removed. Im gonna keep the plant around for awhile longer and go from there.
Whats an update without some pictures too of this pretty lady. Real budshots may begin in oh..2 months maybe at this pace. Please be patient with me.
Haha Dave, looks like your plant changed it's mind about the sex it wants! Keep us posted, I wonder how this one turns out.
About the yellowing: I think the soil was too acidic to begin with, at least for my style of growing. I use RO water and never pH, so the only effect on soil pH comes from the nutes. As luck would have it, a typical nute solution comes out at about 6.4 - so pretty good.
As for watering, I would appreciate some advice. I normally aim to let the soil go almost completely dry, without plants wilting obviously. Would you recommend keeping moisture levels higher? Like watering when the top soil is dry up to 1-2 inches deep? (Yes, you can again praise your meter
I have a tensiometer too actually, but it's too big for my current pot size).
TB, sorry to go off-topic like this, but I'm betting you are willing to allow it, as you probably want me grow good plants and gauge trip potential for you Which reminds me, I had some Destroyer the other day: it is has that delayed onset you were talking about, and the high comes in waves. It's early days, but this one has potential!
About the yellowing: I think the soil was too acidic to begin with, at least for my style of growing. I use RO water and never pH, so the only effect on soil pH comes from the nutes. As luck would have it, a typical nute solution comes out at about 6.4 - so pretty good.
As for watering, I would appreciate some advice. I normally aim to let the soil go almost completely dry, without plants wilting obviously. Would you recommend keeping moisture levels higher? Like watering when the top soil is dry up to 1-2 inches deep? (Yes, you can again praise your meter
I have a tensiometer too actually, but it's too big for my current pot size).TB, sorry to go off-topic like this, but I'm betting you are willing to allow it, as you probably want me grow good plants and gauge trip potential for you
Which reminds me, I had some Destroyer the other day: it is has that delayed onset you were talking about, and the high comes in waves. It's early days, but this one has potential!
Haha Dave, looks like your plant changed it's mind about the sex it wants! Keep us posted, I wonder how this one turns out.
About the yellowing: I think the soil was too acidic to begin with, at least for my style of growing. I use RO water and never pH, so the only effect on soil pH comes from the nutes. As luck would have it, a typical nute solution comes out at about 6.4 - so pretty good.
As for watering, I would appreciate some advice. I normally aim to let the soil go almost completely dry, without plants wilting obviously. Would you recommend keeping moisture levels higher? Like watering when the top soil is dry up to 1-2 inches deep? (Yes, you can again praise your meter
TB, sorry to go off-topic like this, but I'm betting you are willing to allow it, as you probably want me grow good plants and gauge trip potential for you
Do you normally water by hand? If you do, then utilize Pulse watering. Which is basically watering your plant(s) in waves. Instead of giving that plant X amount of water in one drench. Instead you give 25-33%, wait a bit, water again, wait a few minutes or up to 30 minutes wait time. I generally wait 5-10 minutes tops between each watering.
When Ive got a lot of seedlings going and Im watering/feeding by hand, I typically water plant 1, proceed to plant 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, back, to 1, 2, 3, etc. Each cycle around Im generally giving the plant a 1/3rd of its water. Providing the total amount of water in multiple waves with a rest period between allows the water/feed to wick throughout the media. It also reduces run-offs and dry pockets when done correctly. Your roots will thank you for it too.
I never let the media get too dry. I would strongly urge you to keep it on the moister side consistently. The root hairs are responsible for much of your nutrient uptake, and they will respond rapidly by dying off when they're deprived of oxygen or if moisture levels drop too much aka too dry. I can't help but think this may be a culprit in your plants showing N deficiency. Ive seen this in my own garden before.
A great way to help protect yourself from grower error(no disrespect meant, for we all make mistakes and sometimes get lazy with our care) is to incorporate calcined clay into your media. Plants can go for extended periods of time during moisture stress without showing any negative signs by adding only 10-15% to your medium. It also buffers media pH as an added bonus.
Tensiometers are awesome. I have an Irrometer brand one I use along side my blumats. Wonderful item to have in the garden. If only santa would bring me a few more of them.
The destroyer sound wonderful. Thats the type of high Ive not experienced in some time. I hope the Thai can deliver something similiar to your experience.
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TB, sorry to go off-topic like this, but I'm betting you are willing to allow it, as you probably want me grow good plants and gauge trip potential for you
By all means, please continue with the subject. Every time I log on, I'm thrilled to see people have been posting.
Sounds excellent!
Dave, I already watered like you suggested. I watered in waves and well, and then waited until the pots felt dry. These wet-dry cycles, in my mind, helped to get lots of oxygen in the soil in between watering. It worked well for me working with hybrids - very nice root balls - but so so last round with mostly sativa's. So since I was having problems again, I began to wonder. I will water more often now.
In any case, the girls are doing well now. The yellowing isn't getting worse and new growth is healthy. They got flipped last Saturday, and exploded as you would expect for happy plants.
In any case, the girls are doing well now. The yellowing isn't getting worse and new growth is healthy. They got flipped last Saturday, and exploded as you would expect for happy plants.
Im glad your employing pulse watering and enjoying the benefits of it. Theres no better option when doing it by hand. I failed to mention prior but I actually use a 60ml syringe to water via hand. This allows me to water without disturbing the top of the media at all and gives me more fine control in thoroughly watering every inch.
You know, Ive read that same thing about the wet/dry cycle on here many times and other forums, and it seems to make perfect sense. As more water is removed from the media, then oxygen will fill the areas devoid of water, but in reality its more complicated than that.
The biggest factor concerning gaseous exchange in the media is going to be the physical properties of your medium. If its an ideal medium you'll have sufficient pore space for gaseous exchange whether you're at container capacity or not. If you're medium doesn't have the right properties, such as too compact, a wet/dry cycle wont help very much either.
If you want ideal gas exchange, dont worry about wet/dry cycles. Worry about particle size of your media ingredients. Thats what truly matters. As you know, I use Blumats, which has no wet/dry cycles. Its just a consistent moisture level, yet the roots have always excelled more so when using Blumats than without. Even when employing hand pulse watering, I can't duplicate the same kind of results in root growth. Ive learned my plants dont want a wet/dry cycle. They want a comfortable level of moisture at all times.
This is a pic of a rootball 2 weeks after being transplanted and paired up with a blumat.
Im glad your ladies are doing better. They must like the EWC. I hope to see some updated pictures of them later on. I bet they're gonna turn out real nice.
Btw, I hope I dont come across as a know-it-all. No one likes them.
As promised:
This is at 1 week 11/13, and the early yellowing is quickly becoming a problem of the past. You can see several plants developing longer and thinner leaves as they get bigger. I am pleasantly surprised about the internode length: it's the most sativa tent I've ever grown, yet there are no ugly internodes so far.
TB, I am dying to hear more about your Copalita. Did you manage to get some smoke on your lungs?
This is at 1 week 11/13, and the early yellowing is quickly becoming a problem of the past. You can see several plants developing longer and thinner leaves as they get bigger. I am pleasantly surprised about the internode length: it's the most sativa tent I've ever grown, yet there are no ugly internodes so far.
TB, I am dying to hear more about your Copalita. Did you manage to get some smoke on your lungs?
hi thaibliss,
......mouthwatering when i see this pure landracefotos from you...
this is my cross NYCD X sumatra
I find the foxtails very nice, but
they do not come from the Sumatra.
I think that makes the genetic of the mexico line (NYCD).
What do you think?
