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The Mill's Pride Club

TheSource said:
I dont need really heavy duty, I just want the key hole hidden so it looks normal and no one would ask why its locked. Ill check those locks, thanks
wickedpete66 said:
If some one asks why its locked I just tell them thats were I keep all my porn, that usually ends that conversation

sumo said:
Yes guns, porn, private stuff. Yes of course stealth lock which I have= TOT LOKS. Look them up. Invisible. Unlock with a magnet. I see a good shot of them in one of Too Triv's pics complete with magnetic key resting on top of cab.

I can understand that you want a lock that does not stand out, but are uncool people really going to be around your growbox? I could see it if you put it in your living room, it would stand out but who is really going to see it? If they can see it, they will most likely walk over and be able to hear the fans running and ballasts humming, power cords running to a box?.

If someone is prying as to what's in your cabinet, the above answers should shut them up. If they keep asking, you need to ask yourself why they want to know. Private stuff could be anything: stamp collection, vintage comic books, a gun, ammo, porn, sex toys, financial papers, money, food, alcohol: beer, wine, hard liquor(my exroommate used to drink all mine). If they don't like your answer, ask them "why do you want to know?" Put them on the spot. Don't be defensive, be offensive. Have a reply ready.
 
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sumo

Member
Wow, just when I thought no one was listening Ordinary Joe pulls a quote of mine out that I would not be able to find. Any lock you put on cab won't be any stronger than cab itself. Can't break lock? Break cab. Suga the shelf can go no prob because you have that plywood backing. Adding the plywood strengthens the cab better than that shelf. I'll post that pic of tot locks on too trivs cab even though he wants you to erase his pms after you read them like mission impossible. He has never been comfortable posting his stuff.

Sorry triv it's for the cause.
 

AbbieDoobie

Active member
Hey fellas.....here's some pics I took today of my babies. They completed their veg and are on day one of 12/12 today. :woohoo: I am disappointed in their small size, but with the amount of plants I'm vegging and the small pot size I'm using (4.5" extra deep pots), I'm not surprised. Just gave them their last shot of grow ferts last night, they were extremely dry and suffering, but snapped back this morning. The tallest plants are about 9" tall, the shortest about 6" tall.

Here's the whole group of 20 plants:



The plant right up front is a True Blueberry. Here's a shot of another True Blue:



It's already got that weird-assed leaf structure going on. And here's a Serious AK47:



These are the plants I've put into 12/12 (18 plants total): Spice Bros. Apollo11 (1), Serious AK47 (3), G13xButterscotch Hawaiian Freebie (4), Reeferman Love Potion #1 (3), Rez Sour Diesel IBL (2), DJ Short True Blueberry (3), Rez Williams Wonder IX-1 (2). I will get small plants at harvest, but at least I'll hopefully get to sample a wide variety of herb, and that's my goal with this grow.

For the next two weeks, I will give them only water, to make them hungry for ferts. I plan to sex them all at the end of the two week period, and pot the girlies up to 1 gallon pots filled with FFOF/Perlite. I will then give them a combo of FF Tiger Bloom/Big Bloom, Earth Juice Bloom, and Biobizz Top Max every other watering. All of these are 100% organic. :yummy: Two weeks prior to harvest, it will be water only, then a two day dark cycle, and then the cut, trim, and dry. Can't wait for that!

Take care y'all and grow safe.....

~Abbie :joint:
 

Xtbudda

Member
DOH, I was gonna say you aint got much room for the stretch, but you got to sex them. haha
neways,,,,,Looks nice and lush AbbieDoobie. That TrueBlue is definately blue, really stands out with others, nice.
How long did you let em veg for?
Xtbudda...
 

TheSource

Member
OrdinaryJoe,

I guess your right. I think the tot locks will be enough.(No ones snoopin around, its in an extra room) Ive seen a handle with a hidden lock before though. I guesss I'll post it here if I find it incase anyones interested.
Thanks for your help
 
G

Guest

SEEDYNONO said:
i

if fox farm had meant for these bags to be mixed together they would have sold a pre-mixed bag for you to buy.. the reason they don't is it doesn't make much sense. each of these is painstakingly constructed for a certain use.



I guess you havent heard of Foxfarm Happy Frog???....its Moonshine mix in a bag but even more dilute....The straight OF has lots of good stuff but not enough to really make ganja do its thing....The Mix of the 3 adds a bunch more nutes and really loosens the soil which is what Foxfarm needs its some serious heavy dirt....I grew with straight OF for over 6yrs before coming up with the combined soil about 5 yrs ago....weve rocked the "Mix" alongside other substrates as well...my "updated mix" is a bit more complex but the results are overwhelmingly dank...OF grows good weed...The Mix grows 10x better herb...

Foxfarm is now selling a pre bagged lighter version of "moonshine Mix"...."Happy Frog "is their new bag soil which is basically a lighter version of the MM mix.....now if they would just hook me up with some research moneys we'll all be good...

I love when folks talk trash without so much as a clue to what is out there....and what something so simple can acomplish for them.....LOL

msm

Dont knock something till you try it...
 
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erratic_eddie

New member
nomoreschwag said:
erratic_eddie - Thats where I ordered my vortex from a couple years ago. If memory serves me right it came nice and fast in a plain brown box. Vortex might cost a little more than dayton's etc, but I think they are well worth it. 10 yr. warranty too...
My light is the cheap air cooled 400w from www.htgsupply.com
As for the ducting...I grow perpetual with clones (occasional seed plant here and there, always looking for that new mother) I try to keep 8 plants in rotation (normally ends up being more like 6), harvest two plants every 2-3 weeks, add two clones around harvest... My light really never moves, I just set the youngest plants on something to get them even canopy. After the initial 2-3 week stretch they pretty much top out and I'm back to an even canopy. It's hung with chains and all of it moves up or down quick and easy if needed.

Suga - Thanks for the props man. Much :respect: to ya. You've gota nice lookin grow yourself. I took my shelf out and added some L brackets at the top and bottom just in case. I didn't do plywood on the back like alot of people, which I'm sure would make it more solid too.


thanks...im thinking of going with a batwing and a 6" vortex. however, im sure ill change my mind again within the hour. perhaps im putting too much thought into this? did you hammer a piece of wood to the top of your c25 (on the inside i mean)? looks like a finished piece but i cant tell from your pic. thanks
 

mysta177

Active member
.............Thanx for setting that straight MSM.
Some good c13 knowledge:
I was on a podcast show this week with Zandor (guru @ cannabis.com) and I got to tell ya He knows more that about the c13 than I expected. This gut had 7 mills pride c/13 in his garage. All were diffrent. He had one that was extended 4feet taller. This guy I the real deal when it comes to customizing a c13. You have to listen to the show when it comes out on sat. I belive its a 2 part show so he posts every sat. I belive its episode 13 and 14. Episode 10 and 11 might talk about a c13 also
http://forum.thegrowreport.com/ShowForum.aspx?ForumID=25
 
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AbbieDoobie

Active member
Xtbudda said:
DOH, I was gonna say you aint got much room for the stretch, but you got to sex them. haha
neways,,,,,Looks nice and lush AbbieDoobie. That TrueBlue is definately blue, really stands out with others, nice.
How long did you let em veg for?
Xtbudda...
Hey, Xt...

Ain't that true blue just da bomb? They even had little blue first true leaves and even the little stem was blue. Should be some stand out shit. Got plenty of room for stretch, cuz I'm using just 1 gallon pots and they won't grow too much overall. And my Vortex is outta the way now, so I got the whole cab now. I let them veg 38 days. I pulled one outta its pot last night and they are getting sorta root bound now, so time for da sexing! I'll throw some more shots online when they start showing some serious buddage, probably early to mid December.

Peace out...

~Abbie :joint:
 
Originally posted by erratic_eddie
thanks...im thinking of going with a batwing and a 6" vortex. however, im sure ill change my mind again within the hour. perhaps im putting too much thought into this? did you hammer a piece of wood to the top of your c25 (on the inside i mean)? looks like a finished piece but i cant tell from your pic. thanks

NO, I don't think you're putting too much thought into your cab. Every cab is unique to the grower. What's perfect for me, might suck for you. But its another option/idea to consider. I consider the cost of all the components and time it takes build a quality set-up to be fairly substantial, so take the time to get it right the first time.
Maybe its just me, but I would highly suggest going with a 4" and air-cooled instead of the 6" and batwing. The 4" with air-cooled will coll more efficiently with less noise, than the 6" with batwing IMO. I guess if you had low ambient temps you would be fine, and a speed controller could help keep the 6" quiter...
Really its going to be about the same amount of money with either setup. Whats got you thinking thats the option for you?


Finally got mine all finished :woohoo: 8x8 dark room vent and carbon scrubber showed up yesterday. I got a cannon scrubber, and damn that thing is huge! Maybe they all are, but this thing is like 35lbs... Took about 30 ft and a half hour with the weather stripping and now she's light proof, stink free, and running at 69.8 F right now :joint:
 
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G

Guest

erratic_eddie, I agree with nomoreschwag and if I had to redesign my C13 that I built in 2004 and stealth wasn't an issue, I would use an air cooled (Super Sun Reflector by Sunlight Supply), 400W with the exhaust port in one of the top rear corners with the 4" Vortex, Carbon filter and electronic ballast external for maximum height and light level and penetration. But that's my day dream :chin:

Smokin' and dreamin'

Peace

 
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erratic_eddie

New member
nomoreschwag said:
NO, I don't think you're putting too much thought into your cab. Every cab is unique to the grower. What's perfect for me, might suck for you. But its another option/idea to consider. I consider the cost of all the components and time it takes build a quality set-up to be fairly substantial, so take the time to get it right the first time.
Maybe its just me, but I would highly suggest going with a 4" and air-cooled instead of the 6" and batwing. The 4" with air-cooled will coll more efficiently with less noise, than the 6" with batwing IMO. I guess if you had low ambient temps you would be fine, and a speed controller could help keep the 6" quiter...
Really its going to be about the same amount of money with either setup. Whats got you thinking thats the option for you?


Finally got mine all finished :woohoo: 8x8 dark room vent and carbon scrubber showed up yesterday. I got a cannon scrubber, and damn that thing is huge! Maybe they all are, but this thing is like 35lbs... Took about 30 ft and a half hour with the weather stripping and now she's light proof, stink free, and running at 69.8 F right now :joint:

thanks for your input. the reason i was thinking of going batwing and 6" was to eliminate the ducting. i was thinkng of just haveing the vortex mounted right into a hole in the top of the cab. my biggest concern of going air cooled and 4" is adjusting the light. when i were to start a grow, i would need the light to go way down, which would require a lot longer ducting. im still trying to figure out how that wojuld work. in your cab, if you were to move the light down from the top, would your ducting connected from your lamp to vortex still be in place? (i.e. do you have extra slack built into it). i hope im making sense
 
G

Guest

I don't use ducting but isn't there a collapsible kind that you can compress as you raise the light?
 

AbbieDoobie

Active member
mysta177 said:
Hey abbie- Congrats on your gift.....I cant wait to your pics of the SD in a c13.
mysta...

Thanks, bro...talk about a great start to the day, coffee nearly came out my nose... :yoinks: What a great breeder Rez is... Would love to include a couple of Rez Kush crosses, like Strawberry Kush and Double Kush, along with the SD IBL and William's Wonder IX-I and have a total "Rez in a C13 Blowout"! :smoker: Well, whatever gets planted when I germ for the next run in mid-January, the StrawD will definitely take center stage. :bow: :canabis:

Also made some recent mods to my C13 setup...will toss up some pics soon...

:ying: Peace and pot... :ying:

~Abbie :joint:
 

mysta177

Active member
yea I grow Rez's SDxSSH cross that is killer. I learned that a 1 week veg is perfect for the SD in a c13 (400w).
 
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Closet Funk

CeRtIfIeD OrGaNiC!
Veteran
I'm hoping to start getting the supplies and building my cab here within the next month or so. I got my list of what I need and all my grow supplies. I even got plants going to put in as soon as it's constructed. I'm going to go with a C25. It seems perfect for me.

Here is my supplies list: (any comments are welcome!)

C25 Cabinet
Electric Drill
4" Hole Saw Bit
4" Ducting
Stanley Blower Fan
4" Duct Reducers
4" Duct Adapters
Cut PVC Pipe or Vents
Screws
Weather Strip
Duct Tape
White Caulk
Lock w/key

DIY Carbon Scrubber:

(1) Small Bucket w/ Lid
Pillow Fill or Batten
Activated Carbon
Hardware Cloth 1/4 inch
4" Duct Reducer
4" Duct Cap
Hose Clamps
Panty Hose
 
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erratic_eddie said:
thanks for your input. the reason i was thinking of going batwing and 6" was to eliminate the ducting. i was thinkng of just haveing the vortex mounted right into a hole in the top of the cab. my biggest concern of going air cooled and 4" is adjusting the light. when i were to start a grow, i would need the light to go way down, which would require a lot longer ducting. im still trying to figure out how that wojuld work. in your cab, if you were to move the light down from the top, would your ducting connected from your lamp to vortex still be in place? (i.e. do you have extra slack built into it). i hope im making sense


I'm pretty sure what I'm using is just plain ol dryer vent/hose. It collapses on itself when the hood is at the top and has enough slack to get as low as I would think to be reasonable. The first pic is the cab filled and the light in its normal place right before I took them out to water. While waiting for the pots to drain I lowered the light as far down as I think you would need to. Thats a 1 gal pot for reference.



 

AbbieDoobie

Active member
Hey, y'all.....

How goes it on this nice Sunday morning? :wave:

I've been tweaking my cab some more and found a great solution to all my heating/ventilation problems. Here's the problems I've been having...

After watering my babies, I would come back and find condensation all over the inside of my cab walls and would be totally freaking out. :yoinks: This led me to believe that the Vortex wasn't firing enough, which means that the temps weren't rising enough to engage it via the cooling thermostat. Trying to raise the heating thermostat to get a dance going between the little heater hanging in the cab and the Vortex just wasn't cutting it either, because it seemed like the heater in there was running all the damn time, or not at all. Time to put the thinking cap on, Abbie. :chin: And then.....a Eureka moment hit me.....

Ok, Abbie, since you are heading into flower, you need to be running the Vortex 24/7 now. And since you will be drawing in air from the shed interior, you need to concentrate on the ambient air being drawn *into* the cab, not the air that is *in* the cab. So.....a major design change has occured to Abbie's cab:



I installed 6" ducting that sucks in heated air into my cab! Duh! Here's how it works..... The Vortex runs 24/7. The heater standing right in front of the 6" duct opening is controlled by a thermostat hanging inside the C13 at the top-of-the-plants level. If the heat drops in the cab, the little heater kicks on until the thermo kicks it off.

Also, to help keep the ambient air around the duct opening (and the shed in general) at a reasonable level, I've put another heater into play. This one has a built-in digital thermostat that kicks on when the temps around it drop below a certain degree that I set. It runs 24/7, kicking on and off, as needed.

The front toe-kick has been put in place, and in the rear of the cab it looks like this:



The only entry for air is through that vent doo-hicky in the back, all other openings are sealed up with a rolled up blanket and some duct tape. I can really feel the air being sucked in at the front of the 6" ducting.

Here's what it looks like inside:



No more little heater hanging inside the cab. That was a whack idea anyway. I'm glad it's gone.

After just 5 days of 12/12, I pulled 5 males out:



These are 2 Serious AK47's and 3 Freebie G13xHawaiian Butterscotch's. They have since been destroyed. No males for this grow, just pure buddage.

And here is a look at how root-bound one of the G13's got after just 2 weeks in my 4.5" square pots:



Amazing how mj plants put out the roots.

Well, that's all folks. Hopefully, my cab configuration stays the same for a while. With the temps in the 20's outdoors, I'm able to keep the shed in the 50's to 60's, and the cab in the upper 70's to low 80's.

Take care all.....

:ying: Peace and pot... :ying:

~Abbie :joint:
 

sugabear_II

Active member
Veteran
sumo said:
Suga the shelf can go no prob because you have that plywood backing. Adding the plywood strengthens the cab better than that shelf...

so now that the thing is built and up and running how do I take out the shelf short of cutting it up? I know I can loosen the cams, but the wooden dowels will still be a problem, right? should I try to stick a saw between there and cut the dowel?

any suggestions appreciated.

thanks,

suga
 

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