Grassachusetts7
Member
Agreed!!!!! City water is finally on my team! Wish I picked up on this a couple yrs back. I just feel like I should be doing more, because it is that simple. Much more time to focus on the actual plant IMO
*The K.I.S.S. Method*
- Thread starter Ioni Botani
- Start date
Z
Ziggaro
I get what I think is some Iron lockout in coco with Maxibloom. I like using it once or twice in the first 2 weeks of flower, and then from week 5 or so on in a 10 week plant. Anything more than that and I start getting that pale look to the new growth. Even in late flower I use a calmag feeding to ensure the P isn't building up. It "works" but I'd use Jacks as a coco base way before MB
nukklehead
Active member
With ya grass on the city water thang... if you cant beat em join em...
(mg ca, MB, MG, Hempy)...
K.I.S.S.
Nuk
nukklehead
Active member
Im with ya retro.. just let me get a few more runs and I will disprove your idiot proof quote though... lol...
Trust me ,.. I am murphys law.... but hopefully not.. very happy with
MB MG coco hempy , tap......easy squeezy life....
DoDad
Member
I'm starting to see some yellowing on some leaves of my bag seed plants. My other bag seed plants seem fine for now. I'm growing 2 different strains of bag seed.
I'll post some pics later and you guys can see the leaves and maybe some other tell tale signs.
I have 2 autos and one Afghani that is not showing any yellowing, at least as of yet.
I'm at the end of week 1 of 12/12 for all of them and other than the yellowing, on some leaves and some plants, my plants are growing great.
Wait...I just brought the plant out of the tent and looked at them in normal light. They are fine. LOL, it was the light and I blame the vape.
I'll post some pics later and you guys can see the leaves and maybe some other tell tale signs.
I have 2 autos and one Afghani that is not showing any yellowing, at least as of yet.
I'm at the end of week 1 of 12/12 for all of them and other than the yellowing, on some leaves and some plants, my plants are growing great.
Wait...I just brought the plant out of the tent and looked at them in normal light. They are fine. LOL, it was the light and I blame the vape.
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Grassachusetts7
Member
Hey SP. Did the Floroliscious help those difficult strains during stretch? I have a NL that is not thriving like my others. I have Strawberry-Blue and Napalm OG that look flawless in my garden. If she don't turn around I'll just have to put her outdoors and let nature take its course (in ground, not potted). This is just a last ditch effort....
Thanks
Grass
Caravaggio
Member
The Maxi does NOT work if you run a zero runoff. Buildup will be heavy by week 4-5.
Dyna is a nice alternative
Dyna is a nice alternative
i wish dyna sold that as a raw salt. it would have me sold in a second. but giant bottle of water doesnt make sense financially compared to maxi and it doesnt give better results from what ive seen.
somebody should call dave and tell him he could bank in the new commercial market offering a bad ass raw salt line. i know that not every recipe formulated for liquid feed is possible in a fast clean total solubility ready feed salt like maxi. one place said it wass because some of the ingredients in their liquid formula need to be sorta driven into solution. heat and time being the biggest factors.
i know his is unique in that its a one part nutrient that has the cal, mag, and base all in the same concentrated stock. usually causes fall out but they have some trick.
too expensive compared to maxibloom or jacks.
i know his is unique in that its a one part nutrient that has the cal, mag, and base all in the same concentrated stock. usually causes fall out but they have some trick.
too expensive compared to maxibloom or jacks.
but if you are on a doser i could see the advantage. but mixing your own two part would save you a bundle
Caravaggio
Member
I don't know man. It's pretty concentrated to be honest. Requires very little in addition. I don't know who said that Maxi has better yieleds but they probably did not use the Dyna correctly.
Joint Lock
Active member
Your right MB does work alone but the difference in the extras and my schedule I posted is per 600w HPS 9-11oz MB Alone .With the extras 12-16oz per 600w
Joint Lock
Active member
Oopps . Sry to double post . In veg in DWC
15g maxibloom 1gm Epsom salts , 2 oz liquid kelp
I make my own kelp water. 5 Tblspns of algamin kelp 1-0-2
to one gallon of water bubble for 72 hrs in a 1 gallon jug
Unicorniclops
Member
The yellowing leaves for me correlated to the intensity of my light. Using 7 gm Maxibloom/gal. and I had my plants under a Mars hydro 150w LED reflector for 6 weeks and they looked fabulous, no problems at all the whole time.
Then I switched the light over to a Mars II 400w LED and within a week I started to notice yellow leaves in the old growth that looked like typical nitrogen deficiency. After another week it started to look bad enough that I felt I should do something about it.
Higher intensity lights = more photosynthesis = greater need for nitrogen. The 5% nitrogen in Maxibloom may not be enough depending on the lighting conditions.
It would be good for others with this problem to chime in on the wattage of the light they are using.
I'm still experimenting with a solution. I'll report back when I have more to report.
Then I switched the light over to a Mars II 400w LED and within a week I started to notice yellow leaves in the old growth that looked like typical nitrogen deficiency. After another week it started to look bad enough that I felt I should do something about it.
Higher intensity lights = more photosynthesis = greater need for nitrogen. The 5% nitrogen in Maxibloom may not be enough depending on the lighting conditions.
It would be good for others with this problem to chime in on the wattage of the light they are using.
I'm still experimenting with a solution. I'll report back when I have more to report.
i never said that the mb gets better yields and i dont think it does. as a matter of fact i wouldnt make that claim for any nute line honestly. used correctly any base npk and micros in balance for a cannabis nutrient line should be sufficient. if its a lil too high in one thing or another it could in theory build up that salt with a no runoff style. so if dyna is a lil more exact with its targeting of cannabis than that would make sense how it would perform similarly except in a no runoff.
in a runoff system any small imbalance of a small excess would wash away enough to not cause trouble but if it wasnt rinsing somewhat it would be in over abundance. the .
ive used both and havent noticed a big difference and to be clear if i were to use a liquid feed i would certainly consider dynagrow if i didnt just have the agronomist dept of the local feed store just formulate one for me or simply make a two part myself.
but liquid nutes wise, i would imagine its among the best of the one part lines for the price.
mbferts is another option. they have one part salts and two part liquids available that are basically cloneds recipes of one of the most popular lines.
im not familiar though. ive never used thiers but some very well respected members who throw down dank at insane scale at high end quality marks do.
Grassachusetts7
Member
I really like to feed with quite a bit of run off each time( like quarter to half gallon) in 5 gal h/b. All because of reasons stated above. So feeding every day or every other wouldn't be cost efficient with the bottled nutes. Which will bring me right back to the MB or Jacks.
Anybody Run Maxi and Jacks for a comparison? Just curious. I would assume results would be similar.
Thanks
Grass
Anybody Run Maxi and Jacks for a comparison? Just curious. I would assume results would be similar.
Thanks
Grass
Grassachusetts7
Member
Oh sorry
That quarter to half runoff is after the 1 gallon Rez has been flushed with new solution. Sorry for the confusion.
That quarter to half runoff is after the 1 gallon Rez has been flushed with new solution. Sorry for the confusion.
Joint Lock
Active member
I like the additives with MB I see a increase in yields vs w/o . Love how easy maxibloom is tho
You cant do that unless you make hard core compromis element wise, sulfur and calcium dont work together..2 feed tanks are the solution or 2 component fertilisers is a minimum..if you want to add silica u need an extra tank.
I had a agrochemisty expert look for some solution with adding silical to a calcnitrate and there are some professionel rose and tomato producers that do that but u need to add the silica with some special calium ligand i am getting the price for the stuff on monday..
