chomsky
Member
Canna FTW.
as in Canna Fuck The World????
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as in Canna Fuck The World????
HeresTheDank
Active member
greenertea
New member
HeresTheDank Looking amazing bro, What's your temps like in that tent with open hoods?
HeresTheDank
Active member
Appreciate it, got a grow diary goin in my sig. Temps havent been too much of an issue. Impeccable timing from mother nature. Was havin heat issues runnin 1k in veg in october, those random 90 degree falls in so cal.. Right qhen i flipped them and brought in 2nd light we got
Cold weather and low Temps became an issue when lights kick off at 5am. Tents in non insulated garage, lights on 5pm to 5am
Sorry for rambling, Temps have generally stayed between 68 and 80-82.... some 70 degree days itll get to
84 but im usually there to water so open The tent n goes down. Temps were hittin mid 50s for a bit in The mornings but tossed a small heater in there on a timer. Turns on at 5am and runs til 9
Canna nutes are formulated for Tap water . they assume that your tap will have enough Calcium & Magnesium in it to sustain your plants . if you using RO water or tap thats less than .4 EC ..... you will need to supliment with some Calmag . start off low like 2ml per gallon & go up from there if needed .
First off my tap water is the pits, 800 to 850 ppm dissolved solids.
I spoke with the folks at Canna about this and was told that with RO or Rain water (my rain water is 3 to 5 ppm, that I should add enough tap to bring my RO or Rain water up to around 120 ppm about .24 EC, so that is my starting point for adding the nutes.
I have been running low nutes, 300 ppm A&B with zym, boost, drip clean, liquid cool bloom (have been using for the past 10 days or so and will use through the first two weeks of 12/12), cal/magic, and silica to raise pH. My final numbers are 614 ppm 1.23 EC including the .24 starting point, pH 5.88.
I am flipping tomorrow, do these numbers sound ok to you folks? Should I raise the A&B beyond the 300 point? Using A&B, 300 ppm is 4.5 ml/gal, 400 ppm is 6.2 ml/gal and 500 ppm is 7.7 ml/gal. Those are approx numbers. I am thinking of going to 400 ppm this week and increase it to 450 to 500 ppm the following week and for the first 6 to 7 weeks then begin lowering A&B ppm to 200 ppm till the flush at harvest.
Any thoughts?
GR
I am unsure of the original poster for this, but I check it out and the numbers work out to be damn close.
*LESS IS MORE>......... .5 scale for those caring.
***200 ppm of a + b for veg...is plenty....
***400 ppm of a + b for flower is plenty."
"
" ***Calimagic/a+b ratio***
150 ppm/200 ppm = 350
100 ppm/300 ppm = 400
50 ppm/ 400 ppm= 450"
A&B
" 3ml/gal =.4 ec=200 ppm with around 44 ppm of calcium
4.5ml/gal =.6 ec=300 ppm with around 66 ppm of calcium
6.2ml/gal =.8 ec=400 ppm with around 88 ppm of calcium
7.7ml/gal= 1 ec =500 ppm with around 112 ppm of calcium
9.2ml/gal=1.2 ec=600 ppm with around 135 ppm of calcium.........
you need around 150 ppm of calcium alone.....so even if when I'm at 200 ppm if I only added 100 ppm of calimagic, only 75 is calcium so I would still be short......"
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Hey guys im a newbe ere..1st Eva grow.!!.got 2x4x5 tent with 2autos under 2x300 vipa Leds.3 wks old.!!.need advice pls..had cal-mg prob.(brown spots pale leaves etc)seems 2b sorted now & growing ok.!!.will it affect the growth if I pick off lower affected leaves.?.or should i just let them be.?
beefalo bill
Member
Relative newbie to the forum, but with a few indoor, coco, hand watered grows under my belt. This is my third run with the same genetics. Previous grows were harvested around the 12th week of flowering, due to heavy yellowing of the leaves. I'm currently around week 10 or 11 and starting to see the progression of yellowing happening. I'd like to try to stretch these to 13-14 weeks.
What can be done to delay this yellowing for a week or two?
Would adding some N back into the ferts around week 9 or 10 do it?
What can be done to delay this yellowing for a week or two?
Would adding some N back into the ferts around week 9 or 10 do it?
beefalo bill
Member
In this case, i've got a couple BlackBerry Kush in the same space as Blue Dream. The BBK starts to yellow at about 10 weeks of flower. IDK when, or if, the BD does it. So the reasoning for wanting to do this is two-fold. First, I'd like to try to get the BBK just a scosche more ripe before being forced to harvest by the yellowing. Second, this would allow the BD to mature just a bit more, as well. I too continue with veg ferts for the initial stretch after the flip to 12/12. I may be wrong, but I feel it helps to build physically stronger plants as they stretch. Anyways, I don't think that's hurt them at all. What I was looking for was, is there something I can give them late in flower to delay the plant from yellowing?
What I heard in another forum is that it's unlikely I'll find the answer I want, as that late-flower yellowing is an indicator of the change in biological processes that are really genetically determined, not indicative of a need for a different/more nutrients, as would be the case in veg or early flower. My original question, re-phrased, might be something like, "Is there a "fountain of youth" for plants?" So...yeah...had I thought about it that way originally, I probably wouldn't have asked the question, because everyone would be doing it, right?
R
Rox
Hmmm a good question and a potentially good product name!
In my opinion maintaining a healthy root system through flowering with canna rhizotonic or regenaroot goes a long way
It's always difficult to give specifics without knowing all the parameters. Plant size plays a huge role along with relative humidity in the room. It no fun but trial and error works. I use 5 gallons and could get away with watering once a day, if I had to. My girls tend to be large though. My advice would be to use a tray and dtw multiple times a day.
It's difficult to give specifics without knowing all the parameters. Plant size plays a huge role along with relative humidity in the room. It no fun but trial and error works. I use 5 gallons and could get away with watering once a day, if I had to. My advice would be to use a tray and dtw multiple times a day but this is the hand watering thread.
RumblefishTwist
Member
Hello! This thread has been a great resource.
I am in the midst of my first coco grow and am having some issue.
Coco\perlite mix
3 ladies, 2 in 3 gal smart pot and 1 in half gallon plastic, sitting in drainage trays
Feeding daily, 3 ml Dynagro Foliage Pro & 4 ml Calimagic per gallon water
In week 4 of veg
300w LED
Random strains
Couple of issues have occurred since the beginning. First i encountered slow growth and some browning of the leafs in the seedling stage. I was only using Ph'ed water with Calimagic for the first 10 days. Once i noticed the browning i immediately remixed my solution with the foliage pro to provide some nutes other than CalMag. This seemed to pump up the growth rate a bit.
So where we are now, i have 2 plants that show healthy new growth, but then after about 3 days brown spots start to form slowly. 1 plant shows less of the brown spotting, but has some bleach spotting instead. The plant is the half gallon is outgrowing the 3 gallon smart pots significantly and also has roots(healthy white) poking out the bottom of the small plastic pot.
At this point i am not sure what to try. One thing that is a problem is my pots are sitting in the run off water until it drys/wicks naturally. I want to raise the pots above that pool or simply dump the tray after each watering. Other than that all i can think of it tweaking my nute/water ratio or simply trying a flush and starting the nutes from scratch. Thoughts?
I am in the midst of my first coco grow and am having some issue.
Coco\perlite mix
3 ladies, 2 in 3 gal smart pot and 1 in half gallon plastic, sitting in drainage trays
Feeding daily, 3 ml Dynagro Foliage Pro & 4 ml Calimagic per gallon water
In week 4 of veg
300w LED
Random strains
Couple of issues have occurred since the beginning. First i encountered slow growth and some browning of the leafs in the seedling stage. I was only using Ph'ed water with Calimagic for the first 10 days. Once i noticed the browning i immediately remixed my solution with the foliage pro to provide some nutes other than CalMag. This seemed to pump up the growth rate a bit.
So where we are now, i have 2 plants that show healthy new growth, but then after about 3 days brown spots start to form slowly. 1 plant shows less of the brown spotting, but has some bleach spotting instead. The plant is the half gallon is outgrowing the 3 gallon smart pots significantly and also has roots(healthy white) poking out the bottom of the small plastic pot.
At this point i am not sure what to try. One thing that is a problem is my pots are sitting in the run off water until it drys/wicks naturally. I want to raise the pots above that pool or simply dump the tray after each watering. Other than that all i can think of it tweaking my nute/water ratio or simply trying a flush and starting the nutes from scratch. Thoughts?
RumblefishTwist
Member
Also, PH of water has been around 5.8
Guys, sorry for posting a noob question (just switched from soil to coco). But may I inquire, as posted in the first page that u need a run off of 20% to 40%. My plants are in in 5 gallon smart pots and its raised above from the surface of the pot saucer with some smaller plastic saucer. My problem is that my plants seem to be going into daily watering needs and if I continue with achieving 20% run off, the fertilizer mix from the day before would overflow and flood my grow tent. From this problem, I would like to ask for some suggestion as to how to curb this issue. My plants are already in the 3rd week of flowering. If I were to remove the things raising my pot from the saucer, wouldn't it reabsorb the runoff and is that a good or a bad thing. Thanks
You need to drain that runoff way, it would be a bad thing for the plants to absorb that water, it's not oxygenated, probably warm and has excess salts due to evaporation .
If you can reach the saucers use a sponge or large syringe some people even use a wet and dry shop vac
If you can reach the saucers use a sponge or large syringe some people even use a wet and dry shop vac
chomsky
Member
Works best for me!!! Snaps right on a 5 gal bucket.
https://www.google.com/shopping/pro...Es5CjM-t3AUtW-2MMT4AtzoDsWY90NudnrhoCmcvw_wcB
SamsonsRiddle
Active member
you shouldn't need that much calmag with DG FP. try only using .5ml of calimagic. I would also recommend using DG Protekt which will help balance your ph so you won't need any ph up or down while adding silicon and K.
