-
ICMag with help from Landrace Warden and The Vault is running a NEW contest in November! You can check it here. Prizes are seeds & forum premium access. Come join in!
StickyBandit
Well-known member
The Mills Basis A-B adds up to 3-4-4 if it works that way? The pH chart shows P-K absorbed at higher pH for soil, maybe I should drop a bit for coco but it seems to work...
The drain hole is 2" up from the base of the bucket so yeah I could recirculate, not sure I want/need to though if I minimize run off with the timer to mimic my manual feeding
The drain hole is 2" up from the base of the bucket so yeah I could recirculate, not sure I want/need to though if I minimize run off with the timer to mimic my manual feeding
So what is it if you have runoff it's not hydro lol
Ask c moody he knows all the "hydro dummy heat techs making me itch wtf r u doing " answers
I done did dat again I mean sean moodyAsk c moody he knows all the "hydro dummy heat techs making me itch wtf r u doing " answers
Stalk? How's my pro pic btw?Ghost Train Haze #1, pic from 2 days ago. No run-off to speak of, no testing, No additives, Mills Basis nutes 1.5EC pH 6.2 from start to finish (so far) with rainwater. 20L hempy bucket with straight coco (and a small layer of hydroton at the bottom this round). Top up daily or every second day. No thinking involved, just how I I'mlike it
Check out the stalk!
You can auto water through the bottom feed pipe on a daily or 2 daily timer if desired, my next project
Very strong sweet lemon aroma on this one, and very sticky
The reason there's no testing is because I know the mix, 15ml A, 15ml B, 1 drop pH up per 5ml (so 3 drops) in a 5L watering can. I er on the high side of pH to maximize p-k absorption for trichome development, maybe it works, who knows?
View attachment 18930152
Works that way? Didn't u wrote up the lucas method lol??
StickyBandit
Well-known member
I kinda got advice from a few people and combined it and added my own bits in. After looking at the roots from a completed grow I can see the areas where the roots look healthiest, the air cavity at the bottom being one under the colander/sieve and prefer bottom feeding due to fungus gnats
If you got fungus gnats in hydro you got a issue maybe introduced by into your environment by Brad from giagreen or build a soil
I know right photoshop then he be like sorry what's your goals?Heat tech got u itching in all the wrong places again? Lol "bottom feeding due to fungus gnats" all week on heat tech and that's the best u came up with
?
OldManGrower
New member
I am currently doing my first coco grow after about 15 soil grows. I am quite impressed with my results so far as compared to soil. I am finding coco to be advantageous in almost every category and can barely wait until weigh in to see the results. One interesting thing. I cannot seem to get...
- OldManGrower
- Post #2,016
- Yesterday at 2:27 PM
- Forum: Growing in Coco Coir
Y not? Just type that post # into your url bar
How does everything this retard moody touch with paclobutrazol (yes even the veggies he sells in his stores) all dies within days of each otherI mean world wide web um bars
Hi everyone, I'm writing from Italy, I've written very little so far here on ICmag but I've read a lot, especially now that after many years of hydro with drip system and recovery in the tank with recirculation, I've decided to change to try something new.
I made SOG from cuttings with 25 plants in 1m2 with 6.5l pots of expanded clay only with decent results under a 600W HPS with XXL ventilated hood (100*70cm reflector) in a garage built h190*200*140 but the Real crop area is 100*100.
Now my idea was to experiment with the modular SCROG exactly as the legendary VerdantGreen tells very well with excellent results under a 250W HPS.
Not having the need to have a perpetual harvest and above all being able to make do with relatively modest harvest supplies, I would consider making a maximum of 4 seed plants, but even 2 to start experimenting with would be fine, with screens adjustable in height (if needed) of 50 *50cm in fact, covering the same surface as before.
The questions I ask myself are about the substrate, for example I'm very interested in coconut+perlite+whatever you recommend (in what percentage?) for its properties and for the similarity with the hydro that I've always done, but I don't know if it goes well with the topic of scrog, both for the ties and the impossibility of holding the thirsty plants to bend them better (am I wrong?), and for the explosive growth that could put me in difficulty under a net. Maybe in the soil as Verdant did with a totally organic system the plant is more manageable and slow if you want to use the mod scrog technique.
Fert.. mineral Canna coco A+B can work? I'll have to study a lot, I've only ever used Advanced Hydro 1, 2 and 3 in the past... it's clear that I'd like to be as organic as possible to enhance the flavors rather than the production but in coconut that's not the case I'd say... (right?)
Frequency of watering in coco and size of pots appropriate for a scrog is another hot topic, perhaps by keeping my 6.5l I am able to manually water once a day? I might have liked to put bigger pots but I don't know. I like the idea of managing them with manual irrigation and control of the drainage water, to try something new and then if needed I can put the tank and drippers back into operation... but I would avoid it having the possibility of calmly checking everything every day.
For the lights here too I would like to avoid doing as before i.e. MH 400W in veg and HPS 600W in flo, I would like to find the right condition to save something on the bill such as with neon tubes (how many?) or CFL (or MH 250W?) for the veg and max HPS 400 W in flo.. I honestly have no idea what is more convenient always thinking in relation to the scrog which has a necessarily longer veg than the SOG...I certainly don't want to invest in the LED yet unless something cheap and not very powerful can work for veg and then switch to hps in flo.
Sorry for the intrusion and thanks to those who respond.
I made SOG from cuttings with 25 plants in 1m2 with 6.5l pots of expanded clay only with decent results under a 600W HPS with XXL ventilated hood (100*70cm reflector) in a garage built h190*200*140 but the Real crop area is 100*100.
Now my idea was to experiment with the modular SCROG exactly as the legendary VerdantGreen tells very well with excellent results under a 250W HPS.
Not having the need to have a perpetual harvest and above all being able to make do with relatively modest harvest supplies, I would consider making a maximum of 4 seed plants, but even 2 to start experimenting with would be fine, with screens adjustable in height (if needed) of 50 *50cm in fact, covering the same surface as before.
The questions I ask myself are about the substrate, for example I'm very interested in coconut+perlite+whatever you recommend (in what percentage?) for its properties and for the similarity with the hydro that I've always done, but I don't know if it goes well with the topic of scrog, both for the ties and the impossibility of holding the thirsty plants to bend them better (am I wrong?), and for the explosive growth that could put me in difficulty under a net. Maybe in the soil as Verdant did with a totally organic system the plant is more manageable and slow if you want to use the mod scrog technique.
Fert.. mineral Canna coco A+B can work? I'll have to study a lot, I've only ever used Advanced Hydro 1, 2 and 3 in the past... it's clear that I'd like to be as organic as possible to enhance the flavors rather than the production but in coconut that's not the case I'd say... (right?)
Frequency of watering in coco and size of pots appropriate for a scrog is another hot topic, perhaps by keeping my 6.5l I am able to manually water once a day? I might have liked to put bigger pots but I don't know. I like the idea of managing them with manual irrigation and control of the drainage water, to try something new and then if needed I can put the tank and drippers back into operation... but I would avoid it having the possibility of calmly checking everything every day.
For the lights here too I would like to avoid doing as before i.e. MH 400W in veg and HPS 600W in flo, I would like to find the right condition to save something on the bill such as with neon tubes (how many?) or CFL (or MH 250W?) for the veg and max HPS 400 W in flo.. I honestly have no idea what is more convenient always thinking in relation to the scrog which has a necessarily longer veg than the SOG...I certainly don't want to invest in the LED yet unless something cheap and not very powerful can work for veg and then switch to hps in flo.
Sorry for the intrusion and thanks to those who respond.
StickyBandit
Well-known member
Interesting that you are going back to organic, I'm going the other way, not that I was pure organic in the first place. I wish you all the best 
I have a few old dimmable LED lights which are great for the veg stage with remote driver. They don't seem quite powerful enough for the flower stage for some strains but they're cheap and do a good job on the first stage. I have the old version, the current model are AGLEX 240W LED Grow Lights on amazon. I'm sure there's plenty on there and the HYPHOTONFLUX was good for buds
I have a few old dimmable LED lights which are great for the veg stage with remote driver. They don't seem quite powerful enough for the flower stage for some strains but they're cheap and do a good job on the first stage. I have the old version, the current model are AGLEX 240W LED Grow Lights on amazon. I'm sure there's plenty on there and the HYPHOTONFLUX was good for buds
Last edited:
No I'm not interested in necessarily going back to organic because I've never used it and I should learn. What I would like to understand is whether the coconut and the scrog technique go together. What I would like is to avoid using automatic irrigation and water the coconut by hand max 1 time a day. The nuts can easily be mineral as I have always used.. What's different is if organic soil is more suitable for scrog... then I will probably have to learn to use organic ones.
