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Tea Article

Kozmo

Active member
Veteran
Thank you MM, it's good people like you are here to keep a guy like me in check. Still have to get used to not forgetting the idea that my brewer is just not for growing organisms but is also useful for a healthy dose of nutrients.

I received a free sample package from xtreme Gardening" yesterday. In my enthusiasm I used the foliar "CalCarb" they provided me with. It says for optimal results not to wipe away before 36 hours. So I have decided to go with using a soil drench method.

I'll put two Gal. of RO water into my KIS brewer along with 1 cup alfalfa meal, 2 teaspoons black strap molasses, 1 tablespoon Kelpmeal, and one cup EWC which I have purchased from BuildASoil(I have a local worm farmer as well but ordered theres to compare(There both great)). Bubble for 24 hours and Dilute 2 parts water: 1 part tea.

Is the ambient temperature as critical(65-72 degree) in a nutriant tea?

It's great to get these proper amounts and great to get the suggestion of dilution verses changing amounts. Very helpful, and will be going into my Note Log.

I had the thought to use the AZOS(from Xtreme) product immediately while waiting for the brew to develop. I'm sure you have heard of it. Azos is a beneficial microbe that can enhance growth by converting atmospheric nitrogen into a useable form available to plant roots. So by doing this now can I promote my youngling to use what IS available currently and encourage more of a nitrogen uptake after the drench?

I also would like to thank you for your presence on the Adam Dunn show. Hearing you and having you answer a lot of those questions really cleared things up for me. I am currently seeking guidance from BAS on my personal soil mix and am sold on being loyal to the wonderful company. Thank you for your contributions and patience.
 
Last edited:

exstr

Member
Is this an ok recipe for early mid veg:

1/3 cup ewc
1/6 cup hi N bat guano
1/6 cup peruvian seabird in pellets
Teaspoon of roots oregonism xl
Teaspoon of subculture B
4 tablespoon or 100ml maxicrop
1 tablespoon black strap molasses

Black 5 gallon bucket with industrial air pump and stones, water really moves!

Ive read guano can hinder microbes, opinions? Thanks!
 

exstr

Member
This sounds reasonable but if you are using 2 litres of water, I'd use more like 4 heaping tablespoons of worm castings and a full teaspoon to 2 teaspoons of black strap molasses. If available use some good well water or spring water. I would not use the guano as it is a manure and not a compost (I presume) but this is your choice. Are you using a mesh bag or is the stuff free floating? Free floating is good.

Would the agitation of the water help break down the guano into a form more easily processed by microbes?
 

Former Guest

Active member
Is this an ok recipe for early mid veg:

1/3 cup ewc
1/6 cup hi N bat guano
1/6 cup peruvian seabird in pellets
Teaspoon of roots oregonism xl
Teaspoon of subculture B
4 tablespoon or 100ml maxicrop
1 tablespoon black strap molasses

Black 5 gallon bucket with industrial air pump and stones, water really moves!

Ive read guano can hinder microbes, opinions? Thanks!
Lose the oregonism and subculture. If your soil has no amendments that you have added, then there is a good tea recipe on the first post. Use more molasses (I use two ounces for 2 gallons) and more EWC! Try using 1/2 cup per gallon. Some even use a cup. Save your oregonism for the next watering but it isn't needed because the microbes from EWC are soo much better because they're diverse. Use the subculture to sprinkle when transplanting in the hole. I've never heard that about guanos. I've always thought that any manure will provide microbiology?
 

bigshrimp

Well-known member
Veteran
MM,

Could you give advice about brewing in colder temperatures, say 50-55f. Would you recommend lengthening brewtime or adjusting imputs at all?
 

Microbeman

The Logical Gardener
ICMag Donor
Veteran
Without a scope, I'd brew to 48 hours and if using molasses, most molasses odor should be gone.
 
T

Terps

Hi MM I'm currently steeping some indonesian bat guano for a high P tea just wondering if it would be beneficial to add EWC to break down the guano?

Do EWC need to be aerated to get the most out of them?

thanks
 

exstr

Member
Lose the oregonism and subculture. If your soil has no amendments that you have added, then there is a good tea recipe on the first post. Use more molasses (I use two ounces for 2 gallons) and more EWC! Try using 1/2 cup per gallon. Some even use a cup. Save your oregonism for the next watering but it isn't needed because the microbes from EWC are soo much better because they're diverse. Use the subculture to sprinkle when transplanting in the hole. I've never heard that about guanos. I've always thought that any manure will provide microbiology?

The tea recipe is based off of burn1's organic for beginners recipe #3 where he calls for guano. I basically just did a weaker version with the added oregonism xl and subcultureB. For sprinkling on the roots I think subculture M (not B) would be beneficial because its the one with myco in it. The tea recipe I'm following calls for 1/3 cup EWC, 1/3 cup High N Bat Guano, 1/3 cup peruvian seabird. I will keep reading however I am finding a lot of conflicting advice concerning guano in teas. My plants look great and happy so it's not hurting them however I may start doing guano as a top dress, maxicrop with plain waterings, and microbe ACT separate
 

xmobotx

ecks moe baw teeks
ICMag Donor
Veteran
in this thread, the focus is on compost teas or EWC teas as microbial extrapolations {per MM or CTguy} it may not be the best source for nutrient teas based on guano & over the counter biological inoculants

if your soil is already amended w/ a nutrient "charge," a soluble nutrient tea may cause you problems. Even EWC/compost preparations can free up nutrients by themselves & cause "over-feeding" ~the addition of more solubles on top of that microbial inoculant can be even more problematic.
 

Scottish Research

Senior Member
ICMag Donor
Veteran
Not sure if If said this before, but I store my tea in the fridge after I make it.

I started doing this, because I always made too much, and one day I fed my plants with tea that smelled like "shit", well let me tell you that the girls did not like it one bit!; this set them back a few weeks. Now I just blend some seabird guano using a pro stick blender, then place in fridge with a plastic wrap and the stuff lasts indefinitely. You can also add ancient forest, and earth worm castings to the mix without a problem.

I always pre-charge my medium with mycos. That said, I'm not convinced that fridge temps kill mycos.

Just run with it! you will not be disappointed! I always have lush green growth. All my vegetative plants get ORGANIC, because I want healthy clones.

Works great!

R.Fortune
 

Kozmo

Active member
Veteran
5 mil. AgSil 16H, and 1 gram(1/8 tsp) of aloe vere 200x powder, went into 1 gal. of RO water, and an fl. Ounce of neem oil for a PM application. Not sure if that mix belongs in this thread but since we were on the subject of Neem...

Had the temp of the water to high though. It was about 110 degrees. The info I had said to keep it 80-90 degrees. I think it'll be fine though. It gets a 110 out in the summer.
 

exstr

Member
in this thread, the focus is on compost teas or EWC teas as microbial extrapolations {per MM or CTguy} it may not be the best source for nutrient teas based on guano & over the counter biological inoculants

if your soil is already amended w/ a nutrient "charge," a soluble nutrient tea may cause you problems. Even EWC/compost preparations can free up nutrients by themselves & cause "over-feeding" ~the addition of more solubles on top of that microbial inoculant can be even more problematic.

Thanks I now understand the difference in a nutirent tea and a beneficial bacteria tea. I will prob just top dress my guano's etc and brew tea for microbe life.
 

xmobotx

ecks moe baw teeks
ICMag Donor
Veteran
i like to bubble up a little kelp &/or alfalfa in my compost tea brewer

mostly; when your goal is a microbial extrapolation, the nutrients can slow that process

I'm certain there's microbes present in the "kelp-falfa" but it's not the "goal" there
 

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