Ehh, I start drawing out at 24 and stop around 40-48, and slosh the rest into the garden when I get around to it. I haven't noticed any negative results, but that's just my limited experience.
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Ehh, I start drawing out at 24 and stop around 40-48, and slosh the rest into the garden when I get around to it. I haven't noticed any negative results, but that's just my limited experience.
36 to 42 hours is a pretty reliable length. If one has fungi in their compost then it usually is extracted and growing around the 18 hour mark. I recommend just going for a microbially balanced mix rather than one species more dominant.
After contributing to the downfall of one thread, I'll drag what little good I posted here, especially in the hopes it garners someone's attention as to said testing.
Honey pops up routinely, as do other molasses substitutes, and it would be handy to at least have an idea of their varying effects, instead of the sugar=sugar=sugar paradigm.
Added a few things while scribbling around before work.
Much of the antibacterial effect is from natural H202, though testing with manuka (peroxide free) in varying concentrations shows strong effect from other constituents of honey.
It appears the H2O2 effect can be mitigated through heating or bubbling/sitting out, say, while you dechlorinate. (In the previous link, scroll down to the last diagram. Granted the concentrations are absurdly high for our situation.) The concentrations required to have a broad spectrum antibacterial effect range from 3.5-100 percent, with different varieties of honey having vastly different effect.
Honey - its medicinal property and antibacterial activity
Looking at it's effects on B. subtilis, a common soil microbe and commercial innoculant, at very low concentrations, it would seem simpler to just avoid it altogether when possible, or to use mass produced pasteurized honey if necessary.
MIC (minimum inhibitory concentration) values of honey extracts were found in the range of 0.625–5.000 mg/mL (0.0625-0.5%), for S. aureus, B. subtilis, B. cereus, and gram-negative bacteria, E. coli, P. aeruginosa and S. typhi.
Bold parentheses added. If anyone wants to check the math there, feel free. My multiplication tables are covered in crayon doodles.
This is the actual article referenced, something I did not notice originally. In fact I am doubting how relevant this post is, as the concentrations refered to are solvent extracts. I'll see if I can't figure the mathematology out of a workaround relationship of honey/water.
Someone speaking on the topic (elsewhere) mentioned old honey does not have the same antimicrobial effect. I could not find much to support this, until I wandered across a reference (White and Subers, 1964) to light degradation of the peroxide and other antimicrobial compounds of honey, namely the enzyme glucose oxidase.
It really doesn't appear to be that large of an issue if you use light concentration and neutralize the peroxide. Call me a pennygrubbing grower (I do), but I'll stick with lady m'larsess. At half the price and with greater benefits, it gets my Hyme stamp of approval.
If anyone wanted to perform an analysis with honey on compost tea or soil microbes, I could reward them with magic beans. Actual magic beans. Not beans beans. That would be against TOU. These beans will get you high in the sky. Like castor beans.
Never got around to posting this dooodad on nematodes.
Evaluation of Nematocidal Activity in Natural Honey
Honey pops up routinely, as do other molasses substitutes, and it would be handy to at least have an idea of their varying effects, instead of the sugar=sugar=sugar paradigm.
Added a few things while scribbling around before work.
Much of the antibacterial effect is from natural H202, though testing with manuka (peroxide free) in varying concentrations shows strong effect from other constituents of honey.
It appears the H2O2 effect can be mitigated through heating or bubbling/sitting out, say, while you dechlorinate. (In the previous link, scroll down to the last diagram. Granted the concentrations are absurdly high for our situation.) The concentrations required to have a broad spectrum antibacterial effect range from 3.5-100 percent, with different varieties of honey having vastly different effect.
Honey - its medicinal property and antibacterial activity
Looking at it's effects on B. subtilis, a common soil microbe and commercial innoculant, at very low concentrations, it would seem simpler to just avoid it altogether when possible, or to use mass produced pasteurized honey if necessary.
MIC (minimum inhibitory concentration) values of honey extracts were found in the range of 0.625–5.000 mg/mL (0.0625-0.5%), for S. aureus, B. subtilis, B. cereus, and gram-negative bacteria, E. coli, P. aeruginosa and S. typhi.
Bold parentheses added. If anyone wants to check the math there, feel free. My multiplication tables are covered in crayon doodles.
This is the actual article referenced, something I did not notice originally. In fact I am doubting how relevant this post is, as the concentrations refered to are solvent extracts. I'll see if I can't figure the mathematology out of a workaround relationship of honey/water.
Someone speaking on the topic (elsewhere) mentioned old honey does not have the same antimicrobial effect. I could not find much to support this, until I wandered across a reference (White and Subers, 1964) to light degradation of the peroxide and other antimicrobial compounds of honey, namely the enzyme glucose oxidase.
It really doesn't appear to be that large of an issue if you use light concentration and neutralize the peroxide. Call me a pennygrubbing grower (I do), but I'll stick with lady m'larsess. At half the price and with greater benefits, it gets my Hyme stamp of approval.
If anyone wanted to perform an analysis with honey on compost tea or soil microbes, I could reward them with magic beans. Actual magic beans. Not beans beans. That would be against TOU. These beans will get you high in the sky. Like castor beans.
Never got around to posting this dooodad on nematodes.
Evaluation of Nematocidal Activity in Natural Honey
Greenlife1
Member
Just wanted to put this link up..
When i brew I like to just dump my stuff in an filter afterwards.
I know everyone has there preference.
these filters are awesome! not the cheapest but last.
http://www.utahbiodieselsupply.com/filtersstainlessbucket.php
When i brew I like to just dump my stuff in an filter afterwards.
I know everyone has there preference.
these filters are awesome! not the cheapest but last.
http://www.utahbiodieselsupply.com/filtersstainlessbucket.php
Nice. For filtering tea prior to application, I'd use the 800 micron size. If you are using the basket as an active extractor, then 400 microns is the one to use.
I may spring for one of those at some point. I want to see how long my plastic ones last. Will assess at that time. Currently I'm using a 200 micron one of these: http://www.usplastic.com/catalog/item.aspx?itemid=24071&catid=685 Works well to filter thru a 200, then again thru a 100 for the fines. Good luck. -granger
5 gal stainer
5 gal stainer
I use a plastic paint strainer available at most paint stores. Fits right over the bucket.
5 gal stainer
I use a plastic paint strainer available at most paint stores. Fits right over the bucket.
Will any of the beneficial's be filtered out?
JB
400 um used as an extractor in an ACT maker will allow fungal hyphae to pass through as well as other microbes. If 400 um is used as a pour through filter, it will block microorganisms as organic matter accumulates on the mesh. If one uses 800 um mesh to pour through then there is more opportunity for organisms to pass through prior to an excessive accumulation of matter, however, periodically, the organic matter should be swept to the side.
Lower than 400 um was tested by myself and several others with poor results.
It does not block all microbes, as there are so many tiny ones but yes when I tested 250 um there were fungal hyphae complexes blocked.
This becomes exagerrated as organic matter sticks to the mesh and a pile up begins. This is why I use the 800 um for actual filtering.
When you are filtering things pile up due to gravity but one can use 400 um to be safe as an extractor (submerged in water) because things are swirling around sort of weightlessly and are pushed by the diffuser (agitation) through the mesh (individually).
Another way is to line a 5 gallon pail with a 5 gallon paint strainer (nylon/poly fabric), pour the finished tea into it and slowly remove the paint strainer. This allows most of the microorganisms to escape through all sides of the mesh before gravity lumps everything together. We usually squeeze out the liquid from the mass in the bottom of the bag. These paint strainers are generally about 600 to 800 microns (guessing)
Does anyone have any information regarding the effect of ingredients with fungicidal properties on compost tea? RE: some surfactants, canola meal (just came up in conversation), neem meal, etc? Not really finding a whole lot here or through general internet searching.
Former Guest
Active member
Instant nitrogen and Triacontinal. I think it may even provide bennies like ciliates or protozoa but don't quote me 
it could be grass clippings and I'm confused.
it could be grass clippings and I'm confused.
if you wanted living biology from your alfalfa, fresh is going to be the way to go. i wouldn't use alfalfa meal in AACT personally but, will throw in a few live sprigs particularly in the spring
sure the N & triacontanol is there either way & i would even speculate a long-chain compound like triacontanol to be more present in fresh
sure the N & triacontanol is there either way & i would even speculate a long-chain compound like triacontanol to be more present in fresh
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Kozmo; I am wanting to make a brew of alfalfa said:
Instant nitrogen and Triacontinal. I think it may even provide bennies like ciliates or protozoa but don't quote me
FYI, ciliates are protozoa.
Groups of Protozoa:
flagellates, amoebae (naked & testate) and ciliates
