Tea Article

[710420]

After reading my notes on ingredients, I have a question I believe is a good one.

Aloe vera, I find to be in most recipes that call for a foliar spray for ipm. I don't ever see it any where else for use.

Is this a worthy assumption or am I wrong? Can, and if so, where would the ingredient aloe vera be used besides part of a ipm spray?

I just hit my first bowl of the day so forgive if this was mentioned in the thread.

 

[cheezhead]

I did not run mine shorter, I ran it for a total of 36 hours. I turned out just fine (no scope to check) and the plants loved it. I added the extra feedstock just to see if my brewer was up to the extra demand, and it appears it was. I agree with you about not overdoing it and I side with MM on most tea's these days and only use compost and molasses.



Word. I need to run electrical to the spot I want it in first, and that is about #20 on the ever growing list. Once I get on top of it, I think your right. A hole will keep things much cooler, great advice.

Bulldog, I just saw your post. I put a canopy of sorts above the brewer and in the beginning of the brew, I purposely leave it several gallons short. Later if/when the temps get too high, I'll add chilled water to the tea until it gets me back to 70F which is where MM states on his site is the "optimal" temp. I have used frozen water bottles as well if it's a 5 gallon brew or less. Just another idea...

 

[cheezhead]

CT, Thanks for starting a great thread!

MM, Your website is a great resource, thanks so much for what you have done. I have a question that I haven't seen mentioned yet while reading the thread (or I missed it). I've seen it stated that the "ideal pH" for brewing teas is 6.5-7.5 (maybe even on your site). It seems that my brews are in the mid 6's when starting the brews and then end up in the 7.5-7.8 range 12 hours or less. While brewing the tea, is it important to keep adding something to bring that pH down during the brew time or is the that not necessary? Also, do you add any additional food stock at given intervals as well?

 

[Microbeman]

I figured the Daylgos quote was a sure sign I wasen't serious.

I've had that in my bag of tricks for a week or so now. Probably should have waited for a more opportune time to whip it out (like on a bus). Timing is everything.

I fail.

No worries.

 

[Microbeman]

OK, yeah they're talking about spraying CT as a preventive for PM elsewhere on the forum

I hadn't considered the IPM applications of CT much & mostly all i encounter is spider mites or grasshoppers ~which botanical foliars & doc bronner's really help with

I should have probably stated something about beneficial/predatory insects & other forms of IPM

anyway, golf? wtf?

X; just so you know I was referencing the general drift on the internet lately focusing soley on botanical teas and not centering you out.

 

[Microbeman]

CT, Thanks for starting a great thread!

MM, Your website is a great resource, thanks so much for what you have done. I have a question that I haven't seen mentioned yet while reading the thread (or I missed it). I've seen it stated that the "ideal pH" for brewing teas is 6.5-7.5 (maybe even on your site). It seems that my brews are in the mid 6's when starting the brews and then end up in the 7.5-7.8 range 12 hours or less. While brewing the tea, is it important to keep adding something to bring that pH down during the brew time or is the that not necessary? Also, do you add any additional food stock at given intervals as well?

I do not control pH. Your rising pH could be caused by bacterial bloom and/or aeration. I put all foodstock in at the beginning. A decent CT can have a pH range of 5 al the way to over 8.

 

[luxcultivars]

pH is a factor of the balance of a microbial population. In general fungi trend towards acidic and bacteri towards alkaline. They often balance out at a good ratio around 6.3 to 6.6. This is the main reason why pH is not really a concern in organic growing.

I've plowed through all of this info for many many hours now. Thanks to all for such a valuable discussion. Microbeman, I have a question for you.

My specifics:

15 gallons filtered water @ ph 8, in a small garbage can, maintained at 70 degrees. Ecoplus 5 pump thru a PVC air diffuser - vigorous aeration.

3 cups Vital Earth EWC
3 cups Ancient Forest Humus
1-1/4 cups hi-brix molasses
45 ml fish hydrolysate
1 Tbsp glacial rock dust

Dry ingredients are suspended into the liquid in a 400 micron mesh bag.

(This seems very close to your recipe, but minus the kelp and adding the GRD.)

My problem (or not?):

My starting ph after mixing is around 4. I brew this at 70 degrees for 30 hours. My finishing ph is still at 4; sometimes as low as 3.6. Why?

From what I understand it should gradually increase into the high 5s or even to 6 ph, but not for me. I don't have a microscope but I am seeing a nice build-up of slime. Final product has very little smell; a bit of molasses smell if anything. No bad smells.

Right or wrong, I cringe at the idea of adding anything at ph 3.6 to my plants. I started adding 1 Tbsp of Liquid Lime to the mix prior to brewing, and this brings me up to ph 4.5 or so. I am always tempted to add a bit more after to get it above 5. But shouldn't I be seeing an increase of ph if the microbe population goes way up? Am I getting a more fungal-dominant brew for some reason?

Thanks for your input.

 

[Mikell]

It's the molasses. Someone explained it here, I can't find the post, but found a much better one.

By Microbeman

Link

 

[luxcultivars]

Hey, thanks for linking that. Interesting and key information.

I'm using Earth Juice® Hi-Brix™ MFP (“Molasses for Plants”) https://sunlightsupply.com/shop/byc...upplements/earth-juice-hi-brix-molasses-0-0-3

Maybe I need to get some blackstrap for the next brew on Wednesday...

 

[Granger2]

Most horticultural grade MO is preserved with an acid, usually phosphoric. Since it's not sulfured. This drops the pH way down. They do that so the bottles don't blow up on the shelves.

If you get Wholesome Foods MO [food grade, organic, fair trade], the pH is close to neutral. It's super thick, so I'd dissolve it in a much smaller amount of water, then add to brew. Good luck. -granger

 

[Microbeman]

Livestock cane black strap molasses is usually unamended with phosphoric acid or sulfur. I buy 5 gallon pails monthly.

 

[Microbeman]

I've plowed through all of this info for many many hours now. Thanks to all for such a valuable discussion. Microbeman, I have a question for you.

My specifics:

15 gallons filtered water @ ph 8, in a small garbage can, maintained at 70 degrees. Ecoplus 5 pump thru a PVC air diffuser - vigorous aeration.

3 cups Vital Earth EWC
3 cups Ancient Forest Humus
1-1/4 cups hi-brix molasses
45 ml fish hydrolysate
1 Tbsp glacial rock dust

Dry ingredients are suspended into the liquid in a 400 micron mesh bag.

(This seems very close to your recipe, but minus the kelp and adding the GRD.)

My problem (or not?):

My starting ph after mixing is around 4. I brew this at 70 degrees for 30 hours. My finishing ph is still at 4; sometimes as low as 3.6. Why?

From what I understand it should gradually increase into the high 5s or even to 6 ph, but not for me. I don't have a microscope but I am seeing a nice build-up of slime. Final product has very little smell; a bit of molasses smell if anything. No bad smells.

Right or wrong, I cringe at the idea of adding anything at ph 3.6 to my plants. I started adding 1 Tbsp of Liquid Lime to the mix prior to brewing, and this brings me up to ph 4.5 or so. I am always tempted to add a bit more after to get it above 5. But shouldn't I be seeing an increase of ph if the microbe population goes way up? Am I getting a more fungal-dominant brew for some reason?

Thanks for your input.

I would not worry about adding that to my soil but I guess it may depend on your container size. I would suggest brewing 36 to 42 hours. See then if there is any molasses odor and check the pH for curiosity. If you have another pump, add aeration to see if that raises the pH.

Try a brew with only vermicompost or compost and black strap molasses at 0.5% or less, then read pH.

See my post on molasses. You can get perfect black strap molasses at the grocery store. I've bought it in bulk from the bulk food section a few times.

Start off simple!! (SOS)

 

[Kozmo]

Hello all, particularly MM! So I'm puting the new limited edition A13 Haze x Biker Kush cloans straight into flower after I notice growth. I am curious about a ACT that would suit this Sativa dominant strain. Hoping to get a recommend mix of myco + bacteria for my awesome system I purchased from KIS.

 

[luxcultivars]

Thanks! I'll try those things. Always an adventure.

 

[bigshrimp]

Kozmo - ACTs are appropriate for all cannabis. If you are worried about excessive stretch just hold off on the ACT and any other heavy N feedings during the first few weeks of flower. If [FONT=Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]A13 Haze x Biker Kush[/FONT] is a F1 it might not be as sativa dominant as you expect.

The recommended mix is always good ol' homemade compost/vermicompost. There are bagged commercial composts that are mentioned as ok on the forums if you do a bit of looking.

 

[Kozmo]

Would anyone else care to take a crack at it?

Here is my compost info


Nutrient:, percentage:, lbs/acre@4tons/acre


Organic matter, 18.8%, 1504
Total nitrogen, .75%, 60
Phosphorous (P205), .27%, 21.6
Potassium (k20), .41%, 32.8
Calcium, 2.5%, 200
Sulfur, .015%, 1.19
Manesium, 1.05, 84
Zinc, .0046%, .37
Manganese, .0015%, 1.18
Boron, .0015%, .12

C/N ratio, 15.2

Ingredients: Leaves, woody material, vermicompost, rock and sea minerals.

 

[xmobotx]

not the worst #s by any means. but, CT is for adding microbial activity. your compost will likely form a very nice microbial extrapolation {MM's term for CT} &, it will make a very nice amendment for your soil. i like to top-dress & this compost may well be just the thing for "feeding" those 4x4x14 1 gallon containers

 

[Sir D]

MM- within 24 hrs can we assume that all the food or amendments have been depleted by the bacteria/fungi in the AACT... In assuming this is so would dumping more molasses in the tea right before distribution help in continuing the expedited propagation of the b/f while in the soil? I'm just wondering if there may be some benefit in doing this?

 

[ct guy2]

MM- within 24 hrs can we assume that all the food or amendments have been depleted by the bacteria/fungi in the AACT... In assuming this is so would dumping more molasses in the tea right before distribution help in continuing the expedited propagation of the b/f while in the soil? I'm just wondering if there may be some benefit in doing this?

The issue there is that you can drop your dissolved oxygen levels rapidly by giving any food source to the microbes immediately prior to application. Best practice would be to do a separate application a few days apart.

 

[Microbeman]

What CT guy said. If you read the ACT write ups on my webpage you will see caution against this practice. (server is down at this moment)