What's new
  • As of today ICMag has his own Discord server. In this Discord server you can chat, talk with eachother, listen to music, share stories and pictures...and much more. Join now and let's grow together! Join ICMag Discord here! More details in this thread here: here.

Strange Slime buildup on roots

onegreenday

Active member
Veteran
Physan20 instructions

Physan20 instructions

Here's some Physan20 Instructions for cuttings. Nothing on hydroponics I could find.

EDIT: The concentrates below are a lot more than what people suggest in this thread........

http://www.physan.com/

SEEDS/SEEDLINGS/CUT FLOWERS

Cut Flowers in containers, tubes, and decorative vases - Bacterial Stem Plugging.
To eliminate stem plugging (which restricts uptake of water) and to control bacteria and fungi (which create ethylene gas, a cause of petal drop), flower spikes should be hardened by keeping the stems in PHYSAN 20 solution.

USE: 1 teaspoon of PHYSAN 20 concentrate in 1 gallon of water.

Plant Cuttings - Begonia, Chrysanthemum, Fuchsia, and Geranium.
For controlling Crown Gall, Gray Mold Leaf Spots, and Powdery Mildew, soak completely immersed cuttings 2-5 minutes in 1-1/2 teaspoons of PHYSAN 20 concentrate in 1 gallon of water. Plant in compost completely saturated in PHYSAN 20 solution.

USE: 1-1/2 teaspoons of PHYSAN 20 concentrate in 1 gallon of water.

Seeds and Seedlings - Damping Off
Treat seeds and seedlings by soaking in a solution of 1 1/2 teaspoons of PHYSAN 20 concentrate in 1 gallon of water for 5 minutes. Fill the flask containing the seed or seedlings with enough PHYSAN 20 solution to completely cover the seeds/seedlings. Drain the PHYSAN 20 solution off the seeds/seedlings before planting. Use a fresh solution of PHYSAN 20 for each flask.

Seedlings - Damping Off (ornamental plants only)
Make a solution of 1 1/2 teaspoons of PHYSAN 20 concentrate in 1 gallon of water. Soak seedlings in PHYSAN 20 for 5 minutes. Use a soak container large enough to completely immerse one flask of seedlings at a time. Change the solution daily or more often if solution becomes visibly dirty.
If a garden soil is used for planting seedlings, completely saturate the soil in PHYSAN 20. Place the soil in a pot or tray and add enough PHYSAN 20 solution to completely cover the soil. Let the solution drain through the soil or pour off excess.

USE: 1 1/2 teaspoons of PHYSAN 20 concentrate in 1 gallon of water.

PHYSAN 20 solution is effective in stopping the spread of damping off when sprayed on seedlings. Spray seedlings so that all surfaces are thoroughly wet.

USE: 2 tablespoons of PHYSAN 20 concentrate in 3 gallons of water of 2 tsp. PHYSAN 20 concentrate in 1 gallon of water.

Seedlings - Downy Mildew (Ornamental Plants only)
Most common on seedlings. The fungus sporulates on the lower surface of leaves as a white, sparse downy growth. The disease can cause the death of aerial plant parts. Spray seedlings so that all surfaces are thoroughly wet with Physan 20 solution at 5-day intervals until under control.

USE: 2 tablespoons of PHYSAN 20 concentrate in 3 gallons of water.
 

Greenmopho

Member
a tablespoon per 10 gallons of h202 will fix this (dollar store proxide)

H2O2 will only make it worse. I was trying to run a sterile system, GH nutes, sm-90, and h202 in the res. I started getting gunky build up, and kept adding H2O2, and it kept getting worse. The build up is slimy, oily, looks protein based or something. My water temps are around 67-69 F.

picture.php


I prefer not to use physan on living plants if I don't have to, they are already a bit stressed from the algae. Seems like adding a ton of beneficials will start eating and breaking down the algae, but then it comes back with every res top off. It seems to be in my tap water, as I tested it in a bucket left in the dark and algae started growing in it. I am semi-rural and our water is trucked in and sits in a huge res under the building. The water is coming out around 80 deg from the faucet. I am filtering it, but not sterilizing it. I have a UV water filter on order, hoping that will clear this up.
 

darthvapor

Active member
day 18. no slime roots on 3 cuttings. this sucks. only reason I got the cloner is the hopes of roots in 5-10 days. Looks like watermax works to stop slime but root production also suffers.
 

SumDumGuy

"easy growing type"
Veteran
day 18. no slime roots on 3 cuttings. this sucks. only reason I got the cloner is the hopes of roots in 5-10 days. Looks like watermax works to stop slime but root production also suffers.

Thats GREAT news!! Well you have roots and thats what's important.
 
We never get roots quite that fast, even with power clone. Well maybe they start making bumps in a little over a week, but I think you are expecting way too much to get roots in 5-10 days.
 

richyrich

Out of the slime, finally.
Veteran

That is nasty. It looks like a loogy. That beats the pictures I posted of the snot slime years ago. LOL

I wonder what would happen if you poured some Physan onto it straight from the bottle. Wonder if it would fizzle like salt on a snail? LOL
 

Greenmopho

Member
Strange Slime buildup on roots

That is nasty. It looks like a loogy. That beats the pictures I posted of the snot slime years ago. LOL

I wonder what would happen if you poured some Physan onto it straight from the bottle. Wonder if it would fizzle like salt on a snail? LOL

I should note that loogey was bigger than a quarter (the coin). That was fished out of my pump filter. Physan right on it just makes kinda disintegrate. Not really fizz or anything. It doesn't really attack my roots, but it is buiding up in some places, including on air stones, pump filters, and bottoms and sides of net pots. My res smells like pond water. The slime is turning dark brown and black since I added a ton of beneficials. They seem to be munching on it as the chunks have gotten smaller and fall apart now easier, although still present in the res. No point in doing a res change-out until I get that UV filter
 
I wonder if you could put salt on it like you could with a snail or slug. Dude, this is harsh. And I have to say, that I've NEVER seen something like THIS. Maybe my hubby will comment. He's really seen a lot of things growing pot. You could say he's "been around the block a few times." In the coolest of ways, of course! :)
 

Bud Bundy

Member
That is nasty. It looks like a loogy. That beats the pictures I posted of the snot slime years ago. LOL

I wonder what would happen if you poured some Physan onto it straight from the bottle. Wonder if it would fizzle like salt on a snail? LOL
Richyrich, thank you for your *years* of dedicated research into this thread!

I am very interested in trying the tea that you mention for my Waterfarm 8 pack recirculating drip/DWC setup.

I plan on adding to the tea:

------------------
Ancient Forest
Great White
Root Excellurator
ZHO
Aquashield
Liquid Carbo Load (for the carbs for brewing the tea, not sure if Root Excel would be enough)
------------------

However, I do have a couple of questions before I go out and buy all this stuff and try it.

Question #1) Since the tea "brews" and multiplies the bacteria inside the brew, how much of each of the ingredients such as great white, root excellurator, zho, and aquashield do you add to the tea? I believe I read one of your posts in an earlier thread that said you can add less than it recommends on the bottle because you are multiplying the beneficials by brewing the tea first.

Question #2) Do you add Aquashield to the tea or the res? (Hydroguard isn't made anymore I believe, so Aquashield is the replacement with the same ingredients, correct?)

Thanks for any help you can provide Richyrich,

Bud Bundy
 

Bud Bundy

Member
I am not sure if I have root rot or brown slime!

I am growing in a Waterfarm 8 pack Recirculating setup, with holes drilled in the bottom for extra drainage.

This is my second grow in Waterfarms, the first time I didn't have extra holes drilled for the buckets so less roots could get to the DWC, and I had many brown roots, but it still harvested (I vegged way too long). At the time I did not even know about the slime, and attributed it to root rot from not having enough drainage holes in the bucket, letting it run too long, and not having airstones for the first part of the grow.

I have grown in soil for years, but recently switched over; this is my second hydro grow, and I am having problems with brown roots again. Some plants I had an easy time getting going, others seemed stunted and their roots were browning (before they even got to the DWC). Some really healthy plants shot roots down to the DWC bucket, which were pretty damn white when they first came through if I must say so myself. However, after being submerged in the DWC bucket for a few weeks, they started getting brown (didn't really notice as big of an issue with slime at the time), just some roots that looked like they were turning brown.

So, last week I went out and got some SM-90 to add to the res (as I am not running any beneficials, just hygrozyme). I have been running hygrozyme this entire time, and added nothing new to the mix except SM-90.

Well, a day or two after adding SM-90 I inspected the root system again and it seems like the roots got slimer, and browner, and a sludge is collecting on the airstones, and drip tube at the bottom. However, there is no really really foul smell or anything from the res or buckets (roots just smell somewhat earthy, not putrid). Also, while many of the roots are brown, I do see some white ones still and looks like a few new roots are emerging in a few of the buckets, which look fairly white (compared to the others).

I am wondering if all this sludge and thick coating on the roots is from the SM-90 breaking down and cleaning the crap in my system (since I have never run it before), combined with the Hygrozyme breaking down dead plant material and is coating everything.

Now, my water temps could have been a problem and caused this, because they would get to be 75-78, maybe a bit higher sometimes before I improved the circulation and started adding in ice packs more frequently. Also, the ambient room temps would get hot sometimes, I would normally leave the door open since the room had no AC inside (temp would vary between 79-90 during the day, usually at 82-86 degrees). Now, I have ran AC and it runs at a constant 75, peaking up to 79 when I throttle the AC, which is much better. (However, this is after the fact and earlier higher temperatures could have definitely played a part in my brown roots)

Also, I have never grown in hydro or drip/DWC without using hygrozyme - it's been there from the beginning at the recommendation of my hydro store. I have heard good things about it, but am now wondering if this is making things worse.

So, I am not sure if it is "the slime" or root rot. My roots don't look nearly as slimy as some pictures that I have seen in this thread, and my case looks like a mix between pictures I have seen of root rot and some of the milder brown slime pictures I've seen here (so I'd appreciate some help finding out)!

I will post pictures when I get a chance, but in the meantime I will list my nutrients and symptoms so hopefully I can get some help on this!
-----------------------------------
Girls were vegged roughly a week, then flipped to flower. They are on week 4 or 5 of flower now.

I mixed up 12 gal to feed them with:

FloraMicro - 10 ml/gal
FloraBloom - 20 ml/gal
Floraliscious Plus - 1 ml/gal
Cal Mag - 30 ml total
Beastie Bloom - 3 tsp (foxfarm powder additive, I use instead of KoolBloom)
Hygrozyme - 100 ml total
SM - 90 - 3 ml/gal

Recirculating in my system now for 5 days, and I am noticing a little bit of floating material in the res (most likely is the SM-90 and hygrozyme breaking down the dead roots).

I have added a bit of H202 to the system, and dipped a few of the plants with more brown roots in it (I could hear it bubbling and fizzing, it was pretty loud while treating it). I've also sprayed the roots with H202.

pH is fairly stable, but slowly creeps upwards - I'll adjust to 5.8, and it will tend to rise to 6.2 or 6.3 in 3 or 4 days, so nothing dramatic and it tends to stabalize at 6.5 if I don't touch it.

EC between 1100-1400 (depending on how much water I've added). I also use RO water.
------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
My girls still look pretty healthy, and I'd like to take them to harvest, so I'm trying to determine the best route. These are the options I am considering:

1) Run Physan through the system at a small dose for a couple of hours - then following up with option 2 or 3 (I am nervous about doing this after running Imidaclorpid through my res to innoculate against Root Aphids and it really negatively visibly affecting my plants, plants seem to be sensitive in a recirculating DWC system and Physan is something that doesn't look like it's too friendly to recirculate in a res. Also, plants have roughly a month of flower left so I don't want to kill them or shock them too bad.)

2) Run SM-90 again, with a bit of H202 (since I'm not sure if it is slime or root rot) and drop the hygrozyme. Since I have no beneficials, and I only have a month or so of flower left, would it be worth it to just try the "keep it clean" route, then start with the beneficials from the get go next round?

3) Stop using SM-90/H202 and Start treatments with the benefical tea brew (don't know if I have to completely destroy the root rot / sludge first before I can start with the beneficials, or if by adding beneficial tea frequently it will defeat the root rot / sludge ). Even if it is not "the sludge", I assume that the tea treatment would work just as well on root rot/pythium, correct?

Any insight would be appreciated!

Thank you,

Bud Bundy
 

gary20757

Member
Strange Slime buildup on roots

Hey darth any luck on your clones yet ??? If ya figure it out let us know clonings can be tricky if everything isn't just so.
 

Bud Bundy

Member
Pictures of the brown root issue I'm having

Pictures of the brown root issue I'm having

Following up on my earlier post, here are the pictures of the brown root issue I am having.

I just cleaned out my roots by dunking in a bucket of Hygrozyme, SM-90, and Hydrogen Peroxide, then dunking in a rinse bucket, and cleaning the roots by hand and pulling off the brown parts (and repeated the process a few times).

I'm not sure whether the brown stuff on the airstones is "the slime", or gunk from my nutrient feed, as I have never cleaned the airstones or bottom part of the drip ring this whole cycle.

Here are the pics, any insight into my brown root issue would be appreciated!
 

Attachments

  • BEFORE_PICT0006.jpg
    BEFORE_PICT0006.jpg
    41.3 KB · Views: 31
  • BEFORE_PICT0010.jpg
    BEFORE_PICT0010.jpg
    37.1 KB · Views: 33
  • BEFORE_PICT0009.jpg
    BEFORE_PICT0009.jpg
    39.3 KB · Views: 23
  • BEFORE_PICT0003.jpg
    BEFORE_PICT0003.jpg
    42.2 KB · Views: 29

Bud Bundy

Member
After cleaning the brown roots

After cleaning the brown roots

Here are a couple pics of results from the dunking and manually picking the brown crap out of the roots.

After I dunked and cleaned, I returned the plants to system. This week, I am dropping the hygrozyme, floraliscious plus, cal-mag, and so forth, just running simple to clean out any gunk and get the roots in good shape.

This is what I am now feeding them to give the roots some cleansing and recovery:

Mixed 10 gal of water
FloraMicro - 80 ml
FloraBloom - 160 ml
Beastie Bloom - (1/4) tsp/gal

SM-90 - (3 ml/gal)
29% H202 - (6 ml/gal) [Doubled the dosage for the initial dose]

pH is 5.8, PPM is 1100. I will probably add a bit more water with SM90 and 29% H202 and no nutes to bring down the PPM a bit to give them an easier time with recovery and building new roots.

Here are the pics of AFTER the cleaning & dunking, I managed to get alot of the sludge and brown goop off, but some still remains. Let me know what you think!

Thanks,

Bud Bundy
 

Attachments

  • AFTER_PICT0011.jpg
    AFTER_PICT0011.jpg
    38.6 KB · Views: 36
  • AFTER_PICT0012.jpg
    AFTER_PICT0012.jpg
    29.2 KB · Views: 27

darthvapor

Active member
Hey darth any luck on your clones yet ??? If ya figure it out let us know clonings can be tricky if everything isn't just so.

just checked and the bottome ends have become mushy. no slime due to the watermax but now I gotta cut the mushy stuff off and see if roots come out of the upper part. my rockwool cuts werent successful but looks like I have better luck in oasis cubes. Im guessing its an issue with the media moisture level. I think Im gonna take a class on cloning at oaksterdam, unless I can find somebody to give me a lesson, either way gonna need to pay to learn how to do it. the ez cloner im gonna have to work on it. next round gonna try richy richs suggestion and do it with the tea recipe. didnt work for me first time around but I think the chlorine in my water might have stunted the benis. this time Im gonna do it with ro water. If it doesnt work im gonna have a priest come by and bless the res so its filled with holy water maybe then god willing I can get some roots!!!! Man I suck at this cloning, I think im cursed
 

onegreenday

Active member
Veteran
Physan20 instructions

Physan20 instructions

Got ths email from Physan:


The hydroponic applications for our product fall into three general categories. For each of these categories we have cited the pertinent portion of the product label along with recommended dilution rates:

1. Disinfection of hydroponic equipment and surfaces between growth cycles.

Work Area and Benches
Before each work period, spray or swab working surfaces. Spray or swab again after each plant is completed to kill such diseases as, Botrytis, Crown Rot, Downy Mildew, Root Rot, etc.

USE: 1 tablespoon PHYSAN 20 concentrate in 1 gallon of water

2. Control of pathogens in the water system during growing activities:

Use 1 teaspoon Physan 20 concentrate for every 15 gallons of water every other week.


3. Direct spraying on plants for pathogen control.

Use two teaspoons Physan 20 concentrate in 1 gallon of water. Spray solution on plant material.
 

onegreenday

Active member
Veteran
DNF HYDRO SPARKLE

EDIT: Look how this company was gobbled up by DNF.
end edit.

FORMERLY HYDROFUNGICIDE, SAME GREAT PRODUCT, NEW NAME The product of the 21st Century Water Based Biological Root Zone Therapy Use weekly to keep reservoir sparkling and promote a healthy root zone and daily to clean up a problem reservoir. Ensure DNF Hydro Sparkle is in contact with the whole root zone. Do not use in conjunction with other root zone treatments, stimulants or preventatives.
onegreenday is online now Add to onegreenday's Reputation Report Post

Has anyone seen or tried Hydro-Fungicide? http://www.sandaproducts.com.au/sanda_products_006.htm

Can be ran all the time unlike Physan & is made for plants.....trying to get my hands on some to see if it works.


SHARL......you got to be patient......be careful with to much physan......good luck hope they pull through for ya.
 

MrWeekend

Member
heres some pics I took.....I have been running gh 3part with h202 for years with no problems....just started adding cal/mag supplement & this shit started.......the red stuff in the bottom of the bucket is hydroton dust/small particles.......right now I have floraclean in the res, for a 30 min flush....then going to go with physan 20.




picture.php






picture.php




Starting to notice plant droop

picture.php




This is what Ive bought so far....just read through the some of this HUGE thread and see the cannzyme is a NO-NO.

Just flushed with clearex....now going to run physan at 3ml per 25 gallons....2- 30 min fill & drain...is that enough?

whats a good uv filter to look at for a 55gal res?


plan of attack.....please let me know if any of this is not right.

1-clearex for a few hours
2-physan 30min flood......not foaming anything like richy showed in a picture
3-pick off slime roots showing
4-physan 30min flood
5-clean water flush for 2 30 min floods
6-GH nutes, h202, & rhyzotonic

do I need to do the physan flush periodically(couple days/weeks, or just when I see the ph drifting?)....sorry for asking so many questions but this thread is huge & im trying to do this NOW.

still trying to read through this tread and pick out the info...its been 2 days and im only half way through richyrich post.....this thread needs to be consolidated BIG TIME.....so many things are being talked about I have no idea what works....it will probably take me a week to the WHOLE thread.


well this is what I did. plant are droopy, hopefully they will make a comeback

all these measurements are for a 55gal res...water was ph'd to 5.8-6 before each flood.

1- 475ml floraclean, 2- 30min floods
2- 6ml physan20, 30 min flood
PICKED OFF SLIMY ROOTS
3- 6ml physan 20, 30min flood
4- 475ml floraclean, 30min flood
5- 150ml h202, & GH 3part @ 1.0ec for 6hrs, consisting of 2- 30 min floods 6hrs apart
6- 6ml physan20, 1hr in res, 45min flood
7- clean ph'd water
8- GH nutes only @ 1.0ec

all this was done in 24hrs.


is this slime supposed to dissolve in the physan 20? or am I supposed to wipe all of it clean?....because I cant physically wipe everything I need to with plants in there, plus its probably inside my tubing.

Plants have started perking up.

Did 4 res changes today, & now have the earth ambrosia, & earth nectar running in the system....turns your water almost black.

did a 15 min flush of 5ml physan in 55gal
2- 15 min fresh water flushes
then 60ml EA & 60ml EN, & 1.0 ec GH 3 part.

EWC tea will be done tomorrow afternoon......4gallons water/3cups EWC/1tsp carboload/2tsp great white <---damn this shit is expensive!! one $60 can only does 100gal of water.

how much of this tea should I add to a 55gal res?.....I believe rich said he put 3 cups in a 10gal ezcloner?

update on my findings......great white is the shit!....very expensive but it works.....im also using earth ambrosia & earth nectar @ 1/4 tsp per gallon....plants made a full recovery and are at day 9 of 12/12 now......also trying out Plant Success Soluble Mycorrhizae because its a little cheaper than great white, & made by the same company..and all the bacteria #'s were higher per CC with the Plant Success.


picture.php


picture.php







Just wanted to let everyone know this can be battled & managed to pull off a crop.

Here goes some pics at day 63 of my "slimed" crop.

picture.php


picture.php


picture.php
 

richyrich

Out of the slime, finally.
Veteran
Here you go Bud Bundy. See below in your quote.

I am not sure if I have root rot or brown slime!

I am growing in a Waterfarm 8 pack Recirculating setup, with holes drilled in the bottom for extra drainage.

This is my second grow in Waterfarms, the first time I didn't have extra holes drilled for the buckets so less roots could get to the DWC, and I had many brown roots, but it still harvested (I vegged way too long). At the time I did not even know about the slime, and attributed it to root rot from not having enough drainage holes in the bucket, letting it run too long, and not having airstones for the first part of the grow.

Definately add air stones to the bottom of each waterfarm. It may keep the bottom roots from dying by giving them oxygen.

I have grown in soil for years, but recently switched over; this is my second hydro grow, and I am having problems with brown roots again. Some plants I had an easy time getting going, others seemed stunted and their roots were browning (before they even got to the DWC). Some really healthy plants shot roots down to the DWC bucket, which were pretty damn white when they first came through if I must say so myself. However, after being submerged in the DWC bucket for a few weeks, they started getting brown (didn't really notice as big of an issue with slime at the time), just some roots that looked like they were turning brown.

The browning happens from the roots suffocating in stagnant water. They are dead roots and root rot will usually set in once they are dead. If anyone has noticed, the Ebb n Grow system made by CAP has modified their bottom buckets. They drain completely now to avoid this problem.

So, last week I went out and got some SM-90 to add to the res (as I am not running any beneficials, just hygrozyme). I have been running hygrozyme this entire time, and added nothing new to the mix except SM-90.

Well, a day or two after adding SM-90 I inspected the root system again and it seems like the roots got slimer, and browner, and a sludge is collecting on the airstones, and drip tube at the bottom. However, there is no really really foul smell or anything from the res or buckets (roots just smell somewhat earthy, not putrid). Also, while many of the roots are brown, I do see some white ones still and looks like a few new roots are emerging in a few of the buckets, which look fairly white (compared to the others).

It seems like you may have root rot setting in on the dead roots. The sludge is not slime. It is the action of the Hygrozyme. It is breaking down the dead roots. If you had the slime it would have exploded by now. The sludge made by Hygrozyme is jet fuel (super food) for the slime. That is why Hygrozyme is not advocated here when one has slime. It is great to use on soil and coco plants in a drip to waste system though.

I am wondering if all this sludge and thick coating on the roots is from the SM-90 breaking down and cleaning the crap in my system (since I have never run it before), combined with the Hygrozyme breaking down dead plant material and is coating everything.

No, just the Hygrozyme. The SM-90 is probably keeping the root rot at bay.

Now, my water temps could have been a problem and caused this, because they would get to be 75-78, maybe a bit higher sometimes before I improved the circulation and started adding in ice packs more frequently. Also, the ambient room temps would get hot sometimes, I would normally leave the door open since the room had no AC inside (temp would vary between 79-90 during the day, usually at 82-86 degrees). Now, I have ran AC and it runs at a constant 75, peaking up to 79 when I throttle the AC, which is much better. (However, this is after the fact and earlier higher temperatures could have definitely played a part in my brown roots)

Run beneficials as a first choice for the heat. Other wise get a water cooler and you could also run both together. Frozen ice packs or bottles, etc. will not work very good at all. The fix needs to be constant.

Also, I have never grown in hydro or drip/DWC without using hygrozyme - it's been there from the beginning at the recommendation of my hydro store. I have heard good things about it, but am now wondering if this is making things worse.

So, I am not sure if it is "the slime" or root rot. My roots don't look nearly as slimy as some pictures that I have seen in this thread, and my case looks like a mix between pictures I have seen of root rot and some of the milder brown slime pictures I've seen here (so I'd appreciate some help finding out)!

I will post pictures when I get a chance, but in the meantime I will list my nutrients and symptoms so hopefully I can get some help on this!
-----------------------------------
Girls were vegged roughly a week, then flipped to flower. They are on week 4 or 5 of flower now.

I mixed up 12 gal to feed them with:

FloraMicro - 10 ml/gal
FloraBloom - 20 ml/gal
Floraliscious Plus - 1 ml/gal
Cal Mag - 30 ml total
Beastie Bloom - 3 tsp (foxfarm powder additive, I use instead of KoolBloom)
Hygrozyme - 100 ml total
SM - 90 - 3 ml/gal

You would probably have great results by continuing to use the Lucas formula and the rest above you have listed as you have, just drop the Hygrozyme and get a water cooler or go beneficial tea. You do not have the slime and be very happy about that.

Recirculating in my system now for 5 days, and I am noticing a little bit of floating material in the res (most likely is the SM-90 and hygrozyme breaking down the dead roots).

I have added a bit of H202 to the system, and dipped a few of the plants with more brown roots in it (I could hear it bubbling and fizzing, it was pretty loud while treating it). I've also sprayed the roots with H202.

pH is fairly stable, but slowly creeps upwards - I'll adjust to 5.8, and it will tend to rise to 6.2 or 6.3 in 3 or 4 days, so nothing dramatic and it tends to stabalize at 6.5 if I don't touch it.

EC between 1100-1400 (depending on how much water I've added). I also use RO water.
------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
My girls still look pretty healthy, and I'd like to take them to harvest, so I'm trying to determine the best route. These are the options I am considering:

1) Run Physan through the system at a small dose for a couple of hours - then following up with option 2 or 3 (I am nervous about doing this after running Imidaclorpid through my res to innoculate against Root Aphids and it really negatively visibly affecting my plants, plants seem to be sensitive in a recirculating DWC system and Physan is something that doesn't look like it's too friendly to recirculate in a res. Also, plants have roughly a month of flower left so I don't want to kill them or shock them too bad.)

2) Run SM-90 again, with a bit of H202 (since I'm not sure if it is slime or root rot) and drop the hygrozyme. Since I have no beneficials, and I only have a month or so of flower left, would it be worth it to just try the "keep it clean" route, then start with the beneficials from the get go next round?

Yes do #2.


3) Stop using SM-90/H202 and Start treatments with the benefical tea brew (don't know if I have to completely destroy the root rot / sludge first before I can start with the beneficials, or if by adding beneficial tea frequently it will defeat the root rot / sludge ). Even if it is not "the sludge", I assume that the tea treatment would work just as well on root rot/pythium, correct?

Or you can do this. I would just do #2 to finish. Rethink your next route for the next crop with the advice given.


Any insight would be appreciated!

Thank you,

You are welcome.


Bud Bundy
 
Top