Split from : The Complete guide to Sick Plants,pH, and Pest troubles!

[janvit]

One question please. In this topic I have read a statement that garden ph meters are junk. Well, where I live it is inpossible to find a digital ph metar. Just some garden ph metar (analog), "SUNI", Holland.
Any one have some advice?

And, I forget:

I have 7 Big Bud (Nirvana) under HPS 400w, 18/6 hours d/n and they are about 4" high, with 2nd pair of real leafs after 20 days. Is this normal, and could the ph factor be the problem? I am using some mix of diferent soils, which have "ph 5,5 - 8 in soil" info.
Please help

 

[packn2puff]

janvit..how did you get the seeds...behold...the internet..just kiddin..garden supply stores, farm stores, landscaping stores, etc...
if for some reason an order on the net can't be done..

 

[10k]

Excellent guide MynameStitch

Just a few requests...
I've been waiting well over eight months and you still didnt fix that ph adjustment section completely as we had discussed. I apoligise for not bringing it to your attention sooner, but I've been away for quite a long while myself too. I guess you must have overlooked it by accident somehow.

Anyway,
In the guide, ( Last edited by MynameStitch : 03-22-2006 at 05:40 PM) you state the following information...

Hydro Adjustments: PH UP,lime,nitric acid during vegetative; phosphoric acid during flowering.(Only quality PH buffers should be used to adjust ph and be sure the buffer and nutrient work's well together.)

FWIW... Phosphoric acid and Nitric acid ARE NOT for raising pH, they need to be listed under your section for "hydro pH adjustments - pH down".

Also please...potassium hydroxide and potassium sillicate are commonly used hydro pH ups and need to be added to the section "hydro pH adjustments - pH up"

On another portion of this guide "misc things to know" you mentioned clones yellowing from being too far awy from the light...

When unrooted clones start to yellow it means they are either not touching the rooting medium good enough, to much co2, or the light is to far away. Plain tap water that is ph adjusted is just fine till the clones have rooted. Giving any ferts will kill them untill they have been rooted.

The part about lighting is incorrect. The vast majority of the time, clones become yellow prematurely, starting with their largest oldest leaves, because they are too close to the lights and they need to be moved farther away. Some yellowing is normal just as the cuttings begin rooting and can be a sign of the cuttings using their oldest leaves as a food source.

Just hollar when you're ready, and we can split these 21 some odd extra pages away from the guide into their own discussion thread with linkage added to the end of the guide leading to the def guide discussion thread.

 

[20kw dreams]

janvit - those ph meters can work, but they should be checked against a better meter or at least strips to confirm and compare readings until you get an idea of how accurate it is. You can also buy the ph calibration solutions to check the soil stickers with. And, you can always buy a good meter online, but something is always better then nothing.

That growth you are having sounds very slow. Is that from seed plant, sprout, unrooted clone, rooted clone, ect. Is that is from new planting or unrooted clone, then that is actually fine. Does the plant look unhealthy? Do you have pics? It could most definately be from pH being off.

 

[10k]

(repeated here in case you missed it on the previous page)

Excellent guide MynameStitch

Just a few requests...
I've been waiting well over eight months and you still didnt fix that ph adjustment section completely as we had discussed. I apoligise for not bringing it to your attention sooner, but I've been away for quite a long while myself too. I guess you must have overlooked it by accident somehow.

Anyway,
In the guide, ( Last edited by MynameStitch : 03-22-2006 at 05:40 PM) you state the following information...

Hydro Adjustments: PH UP,lime,nitric acid during vegetative; phosphoric acid during flowering.(Only quality PH buffers should be used to adjust ph and be sure the buffer and nutrient work's well together.)

FWIW... Phosphoric acid and Nitric acid ARE NOT for raising pH, they need to be listed under your section for "hydro pH adjustments - pH down".

Also please...potassium hydroxide and potassium sillicate are commonly used hydro pH ups and need to be added to the section "hydro pH adjustments - pH up"

On another portion of this guide "misc things to know" you mentioned clones yellowing from being too far awy from the light...

When unrooted clones start to yellow it means they are either not touching the rooting medium good enough, to much co2, or the light is to far away. Plain tap water that is ph adjusted is just fine till the clones have rooted. Giving any ferts will kill them untill they have been rooted.

The part about lighting is incorrect. The vast majority of the time, clones become yellow prematurely, starting with their largest oldest leaves, because they are too close to the lights and they need to be moved farther away. Some yellowing is normal just as the cuttings begin rooting and can be a sign of the cuttings using their oldest leaves as a food source.

Just hollar when you're ready, and we can split these 21 some odd extra pages away from the guide into their own discussion thread with linkage added to the end of the guide leading to the def guide discussion thread.

 

[MynameStitch]

Holy DOG POOP! Where you been 10k I am ashamed of you ole chap! You got lots of explaining to do!

ug, That was a typo when I was rearanging things, thanks for coming to my attention with that.

You did not tell me to make any changes to it except the sodium bacarbinate thingy which I changed a long time ago


THat lighting issue was something I was going to write and erased it and did not erase it. THank you for putting that out to me.

Yup I agree with you about the yellowing :tup:

 

[10k]

I get the feeling you just want to be frustrating instead of working on your guide mns?

If you agree about the yellowing, then why have you not edited it in ?
(you left it saying "or the light is to far away") <- that's still wrong
It should be "the light is too close" sheeeesh mns.

Or it could say...
"The vast majority of the time, an unrooted cutting will begin to yellow some of it's leaves, starting with it's largest oldest leaves, because it is too close to the lights and it needs to be moved farther away. Some yellowing is normal just as the cutting begins rooting and can be a sign of the cutting using it's oldest leaves as a food source while it is forming new roots"


ps.. the ph downs you mentioned phosphoric acid during flowering, but didnt mention nitric acid "during vegetative growth".

Hollar when you're ready for the thread split.

 

[MynameStitch]

Fustrating? hey I listen.... I have changed what you wanted me to, I have just been busy lately and have not been able to have much time.

Not to be mean or change the subject or anything, but when overgrow was up I gave you a list of 25 links in the growfaqs and you only changed 3. 6 months later down the road nothing was changed or touched......... I listen well I just did not notice it there is so much information here some things got overlooked, I did not do it on purpose or try to misinform people.

I changed what you wanted me to btw.

I also sent you a PM LLOOONNGGG time ago asking you to find anything else wrong and you never PMED me back so I assuumed there was nothing else wrong.


Again sorry I did not do it on purpose I have been very busy lately with holidays and this court crap and planing on holiday trip; my boyfriend was adopted and I found his birthmother recently so we are going to go see her too and its very nerve racking for me and him. Not to change the subject or offtopic. I just wish you would respond to my pm's at least once to know I know you got it and read it. I know mod's are busy we all have a life outside computers..... some of us lol

I'm not trying to be a pest like some people see me as, I just want to do whats right and not get stomped on.


If you need something let me know. Oh, I want to save this thread give me a day to get this thread saved then you can split it.

 

[NuggyBuds]

SOLO,

it sounds like you have somge sort of springtail insect.

Ohio State University Extension Fact Sheet

Identification
Springtails are minute, wingless insects about 1/16 to 1/8 inch (1 to 2 mm) long. Colors vary from white, gray, yellow, orange, metallic green, lavender to red with some being patterned or mottled. They get their name from the ability to catapult themselves (leap) through the air three to four inches by means of a taillike mechanism (furcula) tucked under the abdomen. When disturbed, this appendage functions as a spring, propelling them into the air away from the danger source. Young resemble adults except for size and color. Eggs are spherical.

The thing is most springtails feed on mold and fungi, which is good. but some.

Others feed on plant roots or nibble on young plant leaves and germinating seeds in hotbeds

emphasis added by me.

Prevention
Springtails are commonly found where there are sources of moisture. Any means to provide a drying effect in the home is very effective, such as the use of a fan or dehumidifier, or repairing plumbing leaks and dripping pipes. Avoid over-watering potted house plants and allow the soil to dry between watering, if possible. Outside the home, remove excessive mulch, moist leaves, prune shrubbery and ground cover, and eliminate low, moist areas around the house foundation to permit proper air circulation. Remove wet, moldy wood or other moldy items. Since springtails are attracted to light and may pass under lighted doorways at night, use good light discipline.

Insecticides
Although springtails may cause some damage in the greenhouse or mushroom cellar, they are primarily a nuisance by their presence. Household pressurized aerosol spray cans, containing pyrethrins or resmethrin, will quickly reduce troublesome populations in the home. The dead springtails can be later collected with a strong suction vacuum cleaner. Infested potted houseplant soil may be treated by soil drenches of chlorpyrifos (Dursban) according to label directions. This drench may also be used as a watering solution.

Outdoor residual sprays of diazinon and/or Dursban formulations applied around the house foundation (as a perimeter treatment), in mulched shrubbery, in flower beds, in grassy areas, etc., can be effective in reducing springtail populations. Also, springtails can be treated with bendiocarb (Ficam) 1% dust. Likewise, Safer's Insecticidal Soap is registered for control of springtails in and around the home. Only the licensed pest control operator or applicator can use chlorpyrifos (Dursban) 2E, 4E, 50W or Empire 20 and fluvalinate (Mavrik, Yardex). Pyrethrins (Microcare) are labeled as a spray on dust. Always read the label carefully and follow directions and safety precautions.

I can't be sure, but this sounds like the best match.
hope this helps.
peace

 

[NuggyBuds]

The only other thing it could be is some sort of scale incect, but typically they do not move and look like a fish scale.

 

[Guest]

added it striaght to favorites. top post!

 

[10k]

mns,
That pm must have disappeared when I was away because I no longer have it in my inbox. Sorry I missed it. Hey, thats good news for you and your boyfriend, I hope all goes well with the get together

I changed what you wanted me to btw

Actually... no you didnt.
I see you decided to not include the most common cause of clone failures in your notes about clones yellowing. You removed the wrong part, but chose to not put in the most informative part about clones yellowing.. And That's what I meant about frustrating. arrrrgh !

Splitting the thread isnt going to make anything disappear, you'll (and everyone else) will still be able to keep it alive and well in the general gardening main index. The sick plant compilation will be by itself still stickied here in the infirmary where it belongs.

Have a very merry Christmas & holidays season MynameStitch

 

[MynameStitch]

I am sorry I know I can be very very frustrating, I am sorry I do not do it on purpose, I end up getting it right in the end lol.

I fixed it with your quote 10k, if it is not right I will erase the clone thingy untill I have more time to fix it right, with the holidays and us getting ready to leave tomorrow it's like I have a ball and chain wrapped around my neck!


Thank you you are very sweet 10k, Ok, you can split it then, just let me know where the rest of the split is going to be, like a link or something so I can add it.


and a very merry x-mas and happy new year to you too!

Oh, Thank you very much for being patient with me!

 

[10k]

roger that & thanks mns

 

[janvit]

That growth you are aving sounds very slow. Is that from seed plant, sprout, unrooted clone, rooted clone, ect. Is that is from new planting or unrooted clone, then that is actually fine. Does the plant look unhealthy? Do you have pics? It could most definately be from pH being off.

They are planted from seeds. They don't look unhealthy. Can't post pics because my comp is broken (waithing to collect some money for repair), so I am using public comps. The pH meter shows pH=8 in soil. Now they are 10 days in flowering, and they made more in progress in this 10 days then in last 2 1/2 weeks of veg phase.

 

[MynameStitch]

I am back so if anyone has any questions please feel free to post them here or post a thread in the infirmary

 

[Lofty]

my veg room has a 600hps, i veg constantly and dont really rush things, i'm very strict about my pH wen i feed however my girls in there are aways very pale, red stalks, bottom leaves go yellow and then burn brown, and they groy very slow. i've com to the conclusion that its p and n def ???

i'll the answer is'nt obvious from wat i've said i'll post pics.

wen they go into flower i always do very well (for my space = 17oz per M2) so it's something i'm doing or not doing

i'm considering changing my 600hps in the veg room for 4 x 200 envirolites blue, wat do u think?

many thanx

 

[Guest]

Here's one for you guys. I have a critter that I can't identify on my plants. I was told it is a "leaf flee". I don't know if that means a leaf miner or what, but they are pissin me off! Here's pics of the damage.

You can see the little egg sacks under the leaf stems I keep finding, and a pic of the leaf damage.

I would like to identify this pest and buy a natural predator to handle it. I have dosed the plants once with neem when I noticed the signs of trouble, but I would prefer something more natural.

Please help!

This is one of the balls I find on the stem. They are usually white in color. There is also a pic of one I knocked off and tossed around for some macro shots.









Here is what the damage looks like on a leaf.



This is another blob I keep finding under the leaves, but I see NO critters at all. I thought spider mites, but I never see any.

 

[MynameStitch]

What is in your mixture, you using osmocote slow releasing nutrients?

I have never heard of leaf flea, flea beetle but they are big and you would see them with the naked eye

have you tryed putting a damaged part of the leave under a microscope or look at the egg sack looking things under a microscope, or at least get a magnifying glass and take a look at it .

The 2nd pic you posted at first I Thought it was a seed that was not mature......

do these keep coming back after you pick them off?

 

[Guest]

Yes, they do come back. I have attempted to get as close a look as possible. Those are macro shots. The thing you see is about the size of the head on a ballpoint pen. If you look, you can see that it is empty.

I think I have these identified as a scale insect or psyllid, which is also known as a leaf flea in certain places. I am not 100% positive, but from what I've been reading, this is what kind of pest it is. The exact type, I am not positive. It's very difficult to get a look with the microscope I have, but one thing is for sure. They are tiny as hell whatever they are.

My mixture is BC Technaflora nutes, boost and grow right now with a touch of thrive alive B1 red. Running about 930ppms right now. Setup is a recirc MWC.

Humidity is low for veg at 30%, but I'm working on that the best I can. That also means there shouldn't be any mold or fungi type pests attacking the plant though.

I have ordered 4,500 ladybugs to deal with the issue. I am pretty sure they will take care of the problem. If not, I'll buy another predator, but they should do well against these.

Ever use biological warfare?