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Slownickel lounge, pull up a chair. CEC interpretation

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led05

Chasing The Present
On my last visit to Cali, I posed the issue of humidity and temps to a bunch of growers. Then I passed the issue by a PhD (pretty heavy duty) plant physiologist who is pretty much a genius, conclusion? The VPD concept got blown out of the water.

I have farmed in Guatemala, Honduras, Costa Rica, Dominican Republic and here in Peru. Humid and dry topics...

Where can I produce the best quality and highest yield, by 3 to 5 times? Dry tropics with relatively low humidity (30 to 40%). Why? Heavy evaporation.

This means you better know how to irrigate.... and you better know how to fertilize.

Just got some Tahoe OG and Sunset Sherbert clones planted, lets see how I do....

thanks for the thoughtful and quick reply Slo, I've seen it wreck havoc to a lot of people, especially inside, if you know how to manage then you do great, was just throwing it out there
 

jidoka

Active member
So let me get this straight. If I fuck up and plant in calcareous soil in a desert. And then acid rain strikes. And I have Al in my soil. And I smoke my own weed.

I won't get the flu?
 

led05

Chasing The Present
Slow farms in the desert on the equator, not the tropics. The VPD chart is bullshit statistical data that doesn't apply to 99% of us. I had someone on another site tell me that you can't grow trich rich quality buds outside of the VPD chart range. This same person said that anything grown in the desert is more stressed and lower quality....love to hear what slow has to say about that....

What do you mean it wrecks havoc? Disease and pest pressure are more related to plant nutrition. Obviously environment is a factor, but talk to orechron about growing in humid temperate coastal climates. Maybe not gypsum, but calcium can always fix this....

Has anyone that preaches VPD read any more on the research beyond just parading the chart around like a crucifix?

I wasn't aware I was preaching VPD, I thought I posed a question. 99% huh, must be a confident man speaking for that % of people in regards to anything.

The tropics, whether humid or arid are more consistent than temperate regions by fact, large swings in VPD is what causes havoc, you know the type you get under glass or polycarbonate, not your plastic and PVC bent tube cold tunnels or whatever you want to call them.... The real GH's, like the ones many of the large AG schools use and require them to factor in VPD...

You can't pick and choose the science, I like soil science but as far as transpiration etc I'll just wing it.... I'm not saying VPD ranges have to be met but to ignore this fact, well I've seen many people chasing "other problems" and screw everything up when in reality their VPD was way the FK OFF....

Slo responded like a gentleman, you a fanboy apprentice, come at me and you can have it back.
 

reppin2c

Well-known member
Veteran
Pretty sure colorado was in the optimal vpd the same time summer came...Last year that was thursday. Then Friday happened lol
 

led05

Chasing The Present
Pretty sure colorado was in the optimal vpd the same time summer came...Last year that was thursday. Then Friday happened lol

haha -- seriously though, the direction this is heading is into GH for full control, think Tomatoes & Peppers (commercially) and if you think inside a GH the factors at play that drive VPD (whether a deficit or not) are a critical think to watch and to control, well because you can and more control nomrally leads to better if you know what you're doing.

Slows sand = very low CEC which allows for MORE control, regularly, exactly what a GH does and to overlook this piece of the puzzle, well is amateurish IMHO. Soil mass, if any inside a GH is also invariably smaller (unless no floor layer) so it becomes even more critical.

Put it all together and magic happens
 

led05

Chasing The Present
haha -- seriously though, the direction this is heading is into GH for full control, think Tomatoes & Peppers (commercially) and if you think inside a GH the factors at play that drive VPD (whether a deficit or not) are a critical think to watch and to control, well because you can and more control nomrally leads to better if you know what you're doing.

Slows sand = very low CEC which allows for MORE control, regularly, exactly what a GH does and to overlook this piece of the puzzle, well is amateurish IMHO. Soil mass, if any inside a GH is also invariably smaller (unless no floor layer) so it becomes even more critical.

Put it all together and magic happens

Meant to say aren't a critical thing to watch
 

Dankwolf

Active member
Testing irrigation water ?

Testing irrigation water ?

My water supply varys often and i am begging to belive it may the reason i can't dial things in (tried many routes).
Is there test kits that can be used at home to test my water supply ?
 

led05

Chasing The Present
My water supply varys often and i am begging to belive it may the reason i can't dial things in (tried many routes).
Is there test kits that can be used at home to test my water supply ?

Dank, depending on where you live your county or town should have a complete analysis for free on file... Is this absolutely what comes out of your faucet, no due to pipes etc leching but that amount shouldn't vary too much.

Also you can see a ton of details on your native soils by going to the USDA site: https://websoilsurvey.sc.egov.usda.gov/App/HomePage.htm and then clicking on the start WSS button and following directions.

Depending on where you live the detail is pretty surprising, within a square mile of my home I think I counted 9 different soil categories, this area has tons of soil diversity due to Glacial events. How accurate it is compared to if I sent in an analysis is to be debated but in general, they are fairly good.

Not sure exactly to what degree you're trying to measure so hard to recommend home devices
 

led05

Chasing The Present
My water supply varys often and i am begging to belive it may the reason i can't dial things in (tried many routes).
Is there test kits that can be used at home to test my water supply ?


if it varies widely and often, best bet would be to throw filters in front of it to control as much as you can - depending on what you want to spend you can filter thousands of gallons a day, certainly hundreds for a reasonable price
 

plantingplants

Active member
Just send it in to spectrum or... Cant remember tjebine avenger recommended. Alkalinity can have a huge effect especially on smaller soil volumes. I tested mine and found out i have a huge alkalinity problem that was making Ca unavailable and raising my soil pH quickly. 285 ppm bicarbonates basically liming my soil every time i watered.

If you have a mg scale or a tds(aka ec or ppm) meter you can check if you have high tds which could indicate a problem.
 

led05

Chasing The Present
Just send it in to spectrum or... Cant remember tjebine avenger recommended. Alkalinity can have a huge effect especially on smaller soil volumes. I tested mine and found out i have a huge alkalinity problem that was making Ca unavailable and raising my soil pH quickly. 285 ppm bicarbonates basically liming my soil every time i watered.

If you have a mg scale or a tds(aka ec or ppm) meter you can check if you have high tds which could indicate a problem.


yeah but you can test those things at home with a $100 PH/PPM/EC combo pen that are accurate, calibration sucks BUT.... If the water varies, often, is he going to send to spectrum every week / day?

Also if it varies often who cares what it tests at, you need to fix it, aka filter your water and start with RO / under 3ppm of anything.

Soil testing is complex and needs to be done, testing water is relatively easy and you can find out what makes up that PPM at home, generally easily... He problem has really high PPM & PH and needs to put a RO in front of it, depending on how many gallons / day - Generally you should be able to find a G / day for each buck spent, I.e. a good RO machine filtering 2000 G / day runs @ 2K
 

plantingplants

Active member
There are accurate tds pens for way less than that. How do you find out what makes up your tds at home??

I haven't found a 2000gpd unit for $2000. The growonix 2000 is $3000 and it includes a booster pump to keep the original flow rate so that is good for the hills. I might just pick that up....

The alternative which has been dscussed in pages past is counteracting the ca leaching with small doses of gypsum, citric acid, and aminos. H from acid plus bicarbonate->carbonate->carbonic acid->co2 and h20. So acidifying your water works too and plenty do it but i guess there are certain situations where it shouldnt be used.
 
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led05

Chasing The Present
There are accurate tds pens for way less than that. How do you find out what makes up your tds at home??

I haven't found a 2000gpd unit for $2000. The growonix 2000 is $3000 and it includes a booster pump to keep the original flow rate so that is good for the hills. I might just pick that up....

The alternative which has been dscussed in pages past is counteracting the ca leaching with small doses of gypsum, citric acid, and aminos. H from acid plus bicarbonate->carbonate->carbonic acid->co2 and h20. So acidifying your water works too and plenty do it but i guess there are certain situations where it shouldnt be used.

High PPM in your water supply is almost always going to be mostly Mg & Ca & Fe but yes, a PPM pen only tells you total DS of course.

If you put a water softener in front of your RO, it will thank you for it... Na is a lot easier on your RO than Mg & Ca & Fe...

I understand we like Ca, but under our control

RE the pricing on the RO's, it was a while ago (few years) that I did the pricing for complete systes, everything inflates too quickly it seems
 

led05

Chasing The Present
There are accurate tds pens for way less than that. How do you find out what makes up your tds at home??

I haven't found a 2000gpd unit for $2000. The growonix 2000 is $3000 and it includes a booster pump to keep the original flow rate so that is good for the hills. I might just pick that up....

The alternative which has been dscussed in pages past is counteracting the ca leaching with small doses of gypsum, citric acid, and aminos. H from acid plus bicarbonate->carbonate->carbonic acid->co2 and h20. So acidifying your water works too and plenty do it but i guess there are certain situations where it shouldnt be used.


These are decent models too (USA Made), as you mentioned, price went up quit a bit it seems on all these larger RO's vs. just a few years back, higher GPD models get closer or are cheaper than 1 G / buck still

https://www.reverseosmosis.com/commercial-reverse-osmosis-systems/

I have zero affiliations with what I link to, always
 

TnTLabs

Active member
im in europe and here you get pressured into vaccinating your children,
ive heard in some countrys around the world its compulsory, sure if you travel into the tropics or africa you need your typical yellow fever shot and what not.. been many years since ive been there. I wouldnt go if it is mandatory, simple as that..
from my research i can say with most certainty that most vaccines are bunk.. id even go as far as to say that it could well be possible that big pharma uses vaccines to cause illnesses that later on in life welcomes back the patient for treatments and diagnoses and medications...
Plainly said, for a vaccine to be approved it has to show some sort of reaction in the patient.. thats why they use al & other metals to cause a reaction..
Very sad that complex multi vaccines are injected into helpless babies at an age when their immune system isnt yet functioning...
burn in hell
 

slownickel

Active member
ICMag Donor
Veteran
My water supply varys often and i am begging to belive it may the reason i can't dial things in (tried many routes).
Is there test kits that can be used at home to test my water supply ?

Dank,

Get a good EC or TDS meter as well as a good ph meter.

Keep a log on your water results. When either of those numbers changes much, send in a water analysis.
 

Dakine

Active member
Veteran
I needed the info about shipping samples on the last few pages lol. Everything I was wondering about has been answered. So now I dont have an excuse for not sending in my samples..

Plus I now have the soil mix I will be sticking to for the next couple of grows. Oh and you where right Slo, about the methods UH Lab uses.. They dont give more then 1 nitrogen value in there results. I called to verify before they got to my test. I guess thats what I get for trying to go the cheap route haha!

I've noticed that even my water varies from 6.8-7.6 at random times. I even wrote them down with the results of what my ppm meter said as well.. Both change when I notice A bigger difference and measure with both meters, so its most likely actually happening and not from faulty equipment.

I was also looking at some of "Blue Labs" equipment/meters the other day.. Kinda pricey in my opinion, but do any of you currently use any of there equipment? I kinda just want to get good meters so I dont have to be questioning my meters every single time I test something lol.
 
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