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Slownickel lounge, pull up a chair. CEC interpretation

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B

brown_thumb

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In a few days I'll be adding an inch of soil to my seedlings to bury a portion of the stocks. From what I can gather, 1/2 teaspoon of gypsum per 4 inch pot is a good starting point.

I'll be top dressing the larger plants in 7 inch pots and it appears that 2 teaspoons per pot is a good starting point.

Does the about seem close enough? I realize it's a shot in the dark without soil testing but I can't have that done at the moment.
 
S

slownickel

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brown_thumb said:
In a few days I'll be adding an inch of soil to my seedlings to bury a portion of the stocks. From what I can gather, 1/2 teaspoon of gypsum per 4 inch pot is a good starting point.

I'll be top dressing the larger plants in 7 inch pots and it appears that 2 teaspoons per pot is a good starting point.

Does the about seem close enough? I realize it's a shot in the dark without soil testing but I can't have that done at the moment.
Click to expand...

What are you growing in?

Spiked gypsum allows you to imitate a very high dosis without every going to high with Ca.
 
J

jidoka

Active member
fuckin dirt.png

So this took me longer than I thought but here I is. I know the pH is high so I got to feed micros, I know the K is low so I got to feed K (ksil is me choice)

Tell me what else I need to do Slow.

edit...btw, 30 gallon pot, trying to grow a 3/4 lb plant. I know the numbers change a whole fucking bunch in one grow. So I am assuming I need a balanced base plus the stuff I mentioned. But first time for me....help me out here slow.
 
S

slownickel

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Brown,

I would try mixing up some of the VS Blend and gypsum at about 1 to 5 ratio. Spike it in four spots, say a teaspoon of gypsum per hole along with a bit of OM each and use a small piece of metal or even a pencil and jam it down to the bottom of the pot. Move it around back and forth, left to right until your form a small funnel. Fill that funnel with this mix.

I read up on that victory sea blend. It has a lot of stuff in it, including 10% worm castings. Any idea of the pH? Can you take some distilled water and run a 2:1 water/media mix, mix it well and let sit for 45 minutes and then measure conductivity and pH? Is that possible?

I would still try the 4 teaspoons spiked in with OM.

Do you know the pH of your water and conductivity?
 
S

slownickel

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jidoka said:
View attachment 394382

So this took me longer than I thought but here I is. I know the pH is high so I got to feed micros, I know the K is low so I got to feed K (ksil is me choice)

Tell me what else I need to do Slow.

edit...btw, 30 gallon pot, trying to grow a 3/4 lb plant. I know the numbers change a whole fucking bunch in one grow. So I am assuming I need a balanced base plus the stuff I mentioned. But first time for me....help me out here slow.
Click to expand...


No idea. You have a bunch of carbonates in there and didn't test correctly. According to this process you need a bunch of boron.

Weren't you saying that you were using Asteras' recs, Tanio and the latest, Sait, no?

Go for it! Let me know how it works out.
 
J

jidoka

Active member
silicates,,,no carbonates. agreed on boron and like I said assume at this ph a lot of micros are not available

edit...and yea, I usually listen to tainio (and astera to a lessor degree) but I am willing to try lots of stuff to test those theories. Hence, here I am. This is one pot...life does not depend on it but I wanna know.

edit dos...and yea, at this pH maybe aa 8.2 would have been a better choice. If it works maybe I will add that.
 
B

brown_thumb

Active member
slownickel said:
Brown,

I would try mixing up some of the VS Blend and gypsum at about 1 to 5 ratio. Spike it in four spots, say a teaspoon of gypsum per hole along with a bit of OM each and use a small piece of metal or even a pencil and jam it down to the bottom of the pot. Move it around back and forth, left to right until your form a small funnel. Fill that funnel with this mix.

I read up on that victory sea blend. It has a lot of stuff in it, including 10% worm castings. Any idea of the pH? Can you take some distilled water and run a 2:1 water/media mix, mix it well and let sit for 45 minutes and then measure conductivity and pH? Is that possible?

I would still try the 4 teaspoons spiked in with OM.

Do you know the pH of your water and conductivity?
Click to expand...

I have meters to test TDS an PH but not EC. I bought an EC meter but it won't arrive here for a few days. I'm testing soil PH now and will report back in a few minutes. I adjust water PH to 6-6.5.

What is OM?

EDIT: Soil PH is 7.1
 
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Space Case

Space Case

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jidoka said:
silicates,,,no carbonates. agreed on boron and like I said assume at this ph a lot of micros are not available

edit...and yea, I usually listen to tainio (and astera to a lessor degree) but I am willing to try lots of stuff to test those theories. Hence, here I am. This is one pot...life does not depend on it but I wanna know.

edit dos...and yea, at this pH maybe aa 8.2 would have been a better choice. If it works maybe I will add that.
Click to expand...

Going out on a limb here, and assuming the risk of sounding like slownickel....but silicates are quite reactive, like phosphates and carbonates, so at that soil pH, how much of that calcium is really available? [email protected] test would help. If it really is all bound up to silicates and not carbonates, you have huge calcium reserves but very little if any available now. The other anions are low. S is super low and P could be increased too. I would baby feed gypsum, along with K2SO4. You don't have other cation excesses, so tons of gypsum isn't necessary to push anything else out, but small amounts or even slow's gypsum spikes might work to get em started. Enough e. sulfur, p with fulvic, and sulfates should start balancing things and getting that pH down. CEC is in a medium range and should respond well. Plenty of OM, once you get below 7 pH, the microbes and OM should help a lot. But hanging out at 7.7, I'd be feeding citric, fulvic, and phosphoric acids and lots of enzymes pretty much every feed.

I've been able to get all the soils here, mineral, clay, organic, down to ~6.0 pH range this way.

Wonder what slow will recommend...
 
J

jidoka

Active member
the ec is 1. i have plenty of available ions.

i could get a sat paste or morgan test and see what the mix is but i bet i have plenty of ca and too little k
 
Space Case

Space Case

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jidoka said:
the ec is 1. i have plenty of available ions.

i could get a sat paste or morgan test and see what the mix is but i bet i have plenty of ca and too little k
Click to expand...

I wouldn't keep feeding K2SiO3 with that pH. If you think all or most of that Ca is available, then just K sulfate and micro sulfates, boric acid, and lots of citric and fulvic acid would be the go to. And you can still put on lots more S, and slowly increase P as you increase K, since K is low, if you want to keep P=K. But all that depends on that Ca being available. I still think you'd get a positive response from a soluble calcium source, especially if they are new transplants and don't have much roots.
 
HillMizer

HillMizer

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I used Diatomaceous earth in my soil, would it react with some of the calcium and tie it up? I used 5lbs/yd in the last mix.
 
Dankwolf

Dankwolf

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Expeiremnt # 3.3.0. Succsess

Expeiremnt # 3.3.0. Succsess

Hey slownickel i have been trying to keep up with you guys and the talks about potassium's roll/application and to a existent it shined light on my work with full utilization of cannabis dna and its expressions. thanks partly to your gypsum work i have came up with some vary interesting results related to potassium / silica timeing/dosage . i belive k may not be of great importance in like many think and depending on several factors may limit genetic expression .

I have been hitting the books hard mainly general, organic, and biological chemistry but still am lacking with the full understanding and possable application of my results . i would like to pick your brain and get some input/point of view from a more educated source.

I have some backing data that i will need to dig up to fully experess my theory. But i am getting undeniable visule results showing genetic representation that i have not seen in any of my test/experiments over the last few year s .

Prof is in the pudding right ?
First pick is my cotton candy and its reliable/stable geno/pheno expresion.
Second pick is expeirment #33 .

(look at #1 number of fingers on leafs #2 the seration of fingers of leafs #3 resin gland quanity #4 the way the galands are forming /pushing through leaf surface #5flower formation going from 9 finger leafs to 3 finger and single finger leafs within 2 nodes # 6 smell profile that ypu cant see is more complex and stonger much earlier .)
There are a few more picks in my album.

1st pic control





2nd Experiment #33

 
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TnTLabs

TnTLabs

Active member
any one use chicken/ poultry grit (pure calcium carbonate) to raise ph of soil mixes?
i need to compensate my acidic water and plan on using some together with crushed oyster shells in my next soil mix
 
HillMizer

HillMizer

Member
HazyBulldog said:
Nope, but always think about it. I feed my worms chicken mash, which is very high in Ca as well. Good question. :tiphat:


Who is starting on their soil mixes? I finally found a decent top soil mix I might be using. Only 40$ a yard, (which is high for top soil) compared to 150$ a yard for peat. Taking my 100 or so yards from last season and cutting it with top soil and then building it back up with sulfates. Really trying to dial in 80+% Ca.
Click to expand...

You mean $150yd for peat mix right? Peat moss is like $56yd @ home depot.

I had ideas of doing earthwork this winter but it's damn wet out! I don't want it to all to wash off the hill. I at least looked at the garden yesterday. I was hoping I would have a year where I did not remodel the whole garden.

Buying a little topsoil seems better than scraping up my red dirt to use. I thought about tilling up a few spots and using some native.

Also thinking about using an auger on the bobcat to bore through my beds into the subgrade, bringing up a little soil and loosening it for deep rooting. Going to have an auger around anyway.
 
caterpillar710

caterpillar710

Member
I don't know why any one would make a mound on top of some native soil without first breaking up the native with a rototiller AT LEAST. If a guy wanted to be pro he could put some gypsum and compost too
 
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