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Slownickel lounge, pull up a chair. CEC interpretation

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orechron

Member
Cool, I'd like to get a rosin press eventually.

So, I went really heavy on the silicates this round. Extra couple lbs/yard vansil and now some agsil due to plants needing more K at just over 3 weeks bloom. The plants really change and seem to like it. The also become a health hazard. I was crawling around topless in the canopy today and got pretty scratched up. This is the second time this has happened. The first time my girlfriend thought I was cheating on her but a moment later reasoned that scratches caused by other women wouldn't be in all directions lol.

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Full room of og again, my favorite plant to grow.
 

calisun

Active member
Post your soil analysis if you would. I can only use copper sulfate pentahydrate as an organic source.

I like to apply my metals twice a week as well as do an initial top dress if there is a big quantity to fix. Normally the proportional quantities that are needed are scaled to each other, resulting in a 4 gram Zn, 8 gram Mn, 0.5 gram Cu, 0.5 gram boron type formula for a root drench type application... to give a quick balance over and over. The reason is that many of those metals are going to react with the OM and not ever become available to the plant. Mn is one in particular.

I would also use a good foliar like Albion Multimineral organic if you need it. Really makes a difference. The micros with aminos are super.

We have a great fish amino here with 68% aminos and we mix our micros with it for the soil. The aminos also hold calcium more available to the plant and a great source of N.

Great that sounds like the directions I'm going. I see if I can find some of that copper sulfate. I used calcium25 and fish aminos as a foliar last year with good results. This year i may order albion for the calcium and multimineral.. My soil tests were from April 16 and I don't believe they are a good refection of what my soil is now after 5 months of adding amendments during the season and plants using some up. I plan on getting some new soil tests in the near future. Here's a link to the thread I started last year with my soil tests if they are still relevant.
https://www.icmag.com/ic/showthread.php?threadid=325602
 

jidoka

Active member
Cool, I'd like to get a rosin press eventually.

So, I went really heavy on the silicates this round. Extra couple lbs/yard vansil and now some agsil due to plants needing more K at just over 3 weeks bloom. The plants really change and seem to like it. The also become a health hazard. I was crawling around topless in the canopy today and got pretty scratched up. This is the second time this has happened. The first time my girlfriend thought I was cheating on her but a moment later reasoned that scratches caused by other women wouldn't be in all directions lol.

View Image
View Image

Full room of og again, my favorite plant to grow.

Did you fertigate that agsil?
 

slownickel

Active member
ICMag Donor
Veteran
Great that sounds like the directions I'm going. I see if I can find some of that copper sulfate. I used calcium25 and fish aminos as a foliar last year with good results. This year i may order albion for the calcium and multimineral.. My soil tests were from April 16 and I don't believe they are a good refection of what my soil is now after 5 months of adding amendments during the season and plants using some up. I plan on getting some new soil tests in the near future. Here's a link to the thread I started last year with my soil tests if they are still relevant.
https://www.icmag.com/ic/showthread.php?threadid=325602

Just read your water analysis, something strange there. The F sample which is filtered has twice as much bicarbonate in it. At 3 meq of bicarbonates, you are not going to have a lot of calcium available to your plant. That water is going to grab the soluble calcium and make carbonate.

Which also means that your calcium number is way over stated and you should be getting ammonium acetate at a pH of 8.2 to understand how much of that calcium is really there.

Answer? hahahaha GYPSUM!

Happy New Year!
 

slownickel

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ICMag Donor
Veteran
Cool, I'd like to get a rosin press eventually.

So, I went really heavy on the silicates this round. Extra couple lbs/yard vansil and now some agsil due to plants needing more K at just over 3 weeks bloom. The plants really change and seem to like it. The also become a health hazard. I was crawling around topless in the canopy today and got pretty scratched up. This is the second time this has happened. The first time my girlfriend thought I was cheating on her but a moment later reasoned that scratches caused by other women wouldn't be in all directions lol.

View Image
View Image

Full room of og again, my favorite plant to grow.

Unless of course there were two women...give it up already.

Sweet grow!

Happy New Year pal!
 

orechron

Member
My news years resolution is to pop more seeds! Hey slow, should I post some pics that I took? I haven't gotten around to sorting through and transferring stuff to my comp yet. I have a good one of that beastly caliche layer.

Jidoka, yes fertigated. Plants are like fucking sand paper.
 

slownickel

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ICMag Donor
Veteran
My news years resolution is to pop more seeds! Hey slow, should I post some pics that I took? I haven't gotten around to sorting through and transferring stuff to my comp yet. I have a good one of that beastly caliche layer.

Jidoka, yes fertigated. Plants are like fucking sand paper.

Orch post away!
 

slownickel

Active member
ICMag Donor
Veteran
Size of leafs is also a forsure indicator i like to see atleast 9inch leafs but the golden size seems to be 10 1/2 to 11 inch.

Dank,

I am pretty much at 0.5 g/l conductivity in my "soil medium" in veg, yet only 7 to 8 inch leaves. This conductivity is from compost and worm castings.

I am at 0.8 g/l or so in flowering. My water is about 0.2 I tend not to push enough N early on, how far do you think I can go early on without making problems?

I get the hint...:comfort:
 

orechron

Member
Still in 65's? Same soil or new? Nice looking leaves though. I get the same slight red coming in on the petiole for the last few grows and it seems to get worse as I continue with this soil. I've got too much Mg and over 500ppm P but I think the benefit of more P would outweigh the micro antagonism.
 

brown_thumb

Active member
You cannot decarboxylate at pressing temps. You don't press flowers above 230, and at that temp it would take around 30 minutes to decarboxylate. I have been pressing a fair amount cooler than this as well. My press hasn't seen 210 in a long time now.

If you guys are shopping for pressing, my Hercules press is amazing.:tiphat:

Happy New Years everybody.

I was thinking of pressing at 250F for 20-40 minutes, or until the sizzling sound of CO2 release stops. Not a good option?

I can't afford a fancy press so I'm shopping for a good used vulcanizer. I think I've made a deal for a nice one for less than $100 shipped. It has dual 5 inch heated plates and adjusts from 150-500F. It's the type with large crank wheel on top.
 

jidoka

Active member
Still in 65's? Same soil or new? Nice looking leaves though. I get the same slight red coming in on the petiole for the last few grows and it seems to get worse as I continue with this soil. I've got too much Mg and over 500ppm P but I think the benefit of more P would outweigh the micro antagonism.

yea 65s. just fucking around with salt cause denver demands it

the point was big leaf and 9 leaf dont mean shit. this thing obviously lacks ca (probably b induced)

just fuckin around. confirmation bias is a bitch in science
 
Post your soil analysis if you would. I can only use copper sulfate pentahydrate as an organic source.

I like to apply my metals twice a week as well as do an initial top dress if there is a big quantity to fix. Normally the proportional quantities that are needed are scaled to each other, resulting in a 4 gram Zn, 8 gram Mn, 0.5 gram Cu, 0.5 gram boron type formula for a root drench type application... to give a quick balance over and over. The reason is that many of those metals are going to react with the OM and not ever become available to the plant. Mn is one in particular.

I would also use a good foliar like Albion Multimineral organic if you need it. Really makes a difference. The micros with aminos are super.

We have a great fish amino here with 68% aminos and we mix our micros with it for the soil. The aminos also hold calcium more available to the plant and a great source of N.

If you were to apply Fe as well would you apply between 32 and 40 g? Do you recommend these ratios for foliar applications as well?
 
Si is an anion...not a base cation.

In hydro that actually has a cec my approach is different. If there is room I simply add Ca to raise the pH to 6. Obviously in coco you cannot do that cause it comes with too high a pH (one of the reasons I hate coco). I also do not like ProMix for hydro because they use a combo of dolomite and carbonate...I want to not use Mg as it is simple to feed.

Left to my own devices I would take raw peat and chuck some pumice or calcined de in it for drainage and I use CapSil as a wetting agent. Then I would add CaCO3 or CaSiO2 to bring pH to 6.

The reason I do this is Ca is the single hardest thing to get in hydro. This allows the plant to take up Ca from the soil in addition to CaNO3. I know it happens because the pH will drop over the course of a grow. Then all I do is add enough Ca to raise the pH back up for the next grow.

Not to be a prickly stickler, but Si in the common soluble salt form (potassium silicate) as silicate is an anion. Its plant available form is monosilicic acid, which is neutral.
 

slownickel

Active member
ICMag Donor
Veteran
If you were to apply Fe as well would you apply between 32 and 40 g? Do you recommend these ratios for foliar applications as well?

Most everywhere I work, Fe is off the charts.

Here you can put a magnet on the soil and the soil sticks to the magnet.

This is why it is important the right type soil analysis be used to understand where you are. There is only one place on my farm that needs iron, there the soil is white, it is a calcium carbonate mine and has less than 1 ppm of iron. But instead of applying iron, we just add 30 lbs of the high iron soil instead per plant.

Not many soils that I have seen have Fe deficiency. In fact, most have toxicities. Realize that Fe deficiencies and toxicities look a like to the eye! Beware!

When I apply foliar metals and that is not often, I use Albion or Baicor amino acid chelates. The dosis per acre is tiny. Their multimineral at Albion is spectacular, I add the Mn, Zn and Cu chelates to the multimineral to dilute the Fe in the multi... works great!

One last point, if you read back a bit you will find that Cannabinoid article with the calculated base distributions.... posted it a couple of times. Go back and look at the soil versus the leaf analysis. Look at the Fe/Mn ratios in the soil. Then look at the Fe/Mn ratios in the foliage....

Then look at sample number 2 and look at the Fe/Mn in soil and leaf....

What I have recently realized is that in parts of the world with a balanced Fe/Mn ratio, of say 1 to 1, even 1/2 or 1/3,those soils out produce in quality and yields a soil that is dominated by Fe... blueberries is an amazing example. Pineapple is another. The yield differences can be upto to 200% and qualitative difference is incredible where Fe is dominated or equal to Mn.
 
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