~star~crash~
Active member
she's a tuff plant for sure ... you would be surprised how badly i've f*cked up in the past with nutrition and still sort of pulled it off in the end...I understand what Ur saying btw ...dont wait till it's too late ...
I don't know how I would feel adding the Na to my soil.
You're OK with adding Molybdenum, but scared of sodium?
You stand a much higher chance of killing things by overdosing the molybdenum than you would from the sodium that comes along with it.
You're OK with adding Molybdenum, but scared of sodium?
You stand a much higher chance of killing things by overdosing the molybdenum than you would from the sodium that comes along with it.
Where did you see the 1000 ppm toxicity number? That's not accurate. At a thousand parts per million you to have more molybdenum than potassium in a lot of soils and molybdenum is considered a trace mineral, not a macro. I have molybdenum in my greenhouses at about 4 to 5 ppm and I consider that luxury levels. 2 ppm is probably sufficient for most. To get to 4 to 5 PPM it takes very little sodium molybdate to get there so the amount of sodium that comes along with it is negligible.Molybdenum toxicity doesn't occur till near 1000 ppm. Mo also helps with nitrogen processing by breaking down more complex proteins.
Sodium as a large, monovalent cation disperses soil, forces ions out of the root zone, and overall is toxicity is more readily achievable than molybdenum as it is more abundant in general.
If anything molybdenum additives would be helpful specifically for soil health, not more so for plant health.
Where did you see the 1000 ppm toxicity number? That's not accurate. At a thousand parts per million you to have more molybdenum than potassium in a lot of soils and molybdenum is considered a trace mineral, not a macro. I have molybdenum in my greenhouses at about 4 to 5 ppm and I consider that luxury levels. 2 ppm is probably sufficient for most. To get to 4 to 5 PPM it takes very little sodium molybdate to get there so the amount of sodium that comes along with it is negligible.
My source is USGS. I'm on my phone but I have the document at my house on my laptop.
No it said between 1000 and 2000 ppm is normal toxicity for Mo. But yea, I mean those are well and good, but I'd rather use like a puree of a Mo accumulator.I think you must have read it wrong. You'll be hard pressed to find any knowledgeable people that wouldn't say you'd be risking toxicity above 5 ppm. The University of Wisconsin, Oxford, Oregon State Ag Dept, Agricultural Canadian Research Station, Graime Said, etc. all say 5 ppm is about the healthy limit in soil. Spectrum Analytics says 1 ppm is sufficient for most crops and most of the rest say around 0.5-2ppm is sufficient for most crops.
And just FYI, you could use ammonium molybdate or molybdenum trioxide also, but I don't know how cheap or easy to find those are. Sodium molybdate is cheap and easy to find.
I'm not on a desktop ATM, but I can find one for you later tonight when I sit down at my computer. Or someone else can link one or you can do a quick Google search and you'll find plenty of info. And just for your own information, with any mineral the difference between an adequate amount and a toxic amount is never going to be 1,000 times. If you applied that idea to calcium for example, that would be the difference between growing in a soil with say a 75% calcium saturation and a bag of pure gypsum.No it said between 1000 and 2000 ppm is normal toxicity for Mo. But yea, I mean those are well and good, but I'd rather use like a puree of a Mo accumulator.
But yea, I'd love for a link to toxicity of Mo in plants being anything less than 1000 ppm. Not recommended concentration.
No it said between 1000 and 2000 ppm is normal toxicity for Mo. But yea, I mean those are well and good, but I'd rather use like a puree of a Mo accumulator.
But yea, I'd love for a link to toxicity of Mo in plants being anything less than 1000 ppm. Not recommended concentration.
I think the article your talking about was referencing PPM in plant tissue?
That is the one I remember standing out on Mo from USGS. Something about grain and forage crops.
I would like to see the paper you mention either way.
It's not all about hitting numbers. Plant compounds are more complexes of compounds and those trace proteins and plant metabolites that haven't been quantified not only raise the margin of error, but definitely achieve a more balanced ecosystem. Also I did Google it and am telling you what I found, but search your self.I'm not on a desktop ATM, but I can find one for you later tonight when I sit down at my computer. Or someone else can link one or you can do a quick Google search and you'll find plenty of info. And just for your own information, with any mineral the difference between an adequate amount and a toxic amount is never going to be 1,000 times. If you applied that idea to calcium for example, that would be the difference between growing in a soil with say a 75% calcium saturation and a bag of pure gypsum.
And I'm sure you can find something that's a Mo accumulator, but it's easier to hit the numbers you want with manufactured compounds.
I’m shooting for better vpd levels so my humidity is higher unless venting, 20% humidity is average outside.what is your humidity in GH, you know common recommendations for say tomatoes are to target 75-80% day and night 60-70% - much higher than many realize, it surprised me when I first learned it - if you got good air flow, plants, almost all of them love humid conditions, especially your warm / hot season crops
open floors allows for free (meaning I have to do nothing) watering from rains and snow melt in my area all spring via wicking, eventually the beds will transform the rock area below it and work into it, over time, a long one but this also allows for more life IMO vs a concrete sealed floor... It helps keep warm or cool, the GH itself is built below grade so the bottom floor is 2-3' below outside on one side and @ 2' on the other due to a 4-5 degree slop it's on.
So it helps both wit Humidity & Temp and better mimics the outside... The one down side is for a few days in spring, or during crazy weather periods like we're currently having (-8 to 60, then 7 to 50 in a day or two) a couple of inches of water will fill the bottom of the walkway. That wood is IPE so no worries but I wouldn't recommend anyone ever building with it or using as a sill plate etc.... it's worse than drilling concrete and literally has the same fire rating and density if not harder than concrete
The rich folk use it for docks and piers, Slow being a good S American must know IPE well
I can tell you that thus far the plants are responding with very shiny lush healthy foliage >>> question ... so in a properly balanced soil would this be considered sound nutrition, or woo woo juice?? peace View Image
Yea, so exactly like I said. Mo toxicity between 1000-2000 ppm. If you're growing a crop that isn't for consumption, although marijuana may be depending on what you are doing, a higher than normal Mo content may help out with N complexing at a higher rate.