~star~crash~
Active member
i did watch the vid & i'm reading... i'll get an analysis (when i can bust thru the snow) and we'll talk much more when i have something to contribute ..peace
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Slownickel lounge, pull up a chair. CEC interpretation
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Stellar. The last run in this bed was 11 different varieties out of 18 total plants...I am not a mono-cropper... 1.28 gpw or 2.86 lbs/1k in a 2400 watt bed... 6.8 lbs from a 9x4 space.
Terps have gone up, shelf life has increased and density is through the roof... and this is still without getting the K close...
The real shining star here will be outdoors... Since Slow is giving me shit about wasting electricity...
1/4" ID inserted directly into 1/2 main line. If any type of barb or connector is used on .250 you lose 40% of your volume. Not using connections makes it less costly and allows me to push big particles through without blockage.
Truth be told, I have a 35 gallon res, 400 gph pump/timer on micro sprinklers for H20 and an 18 gallon res with 400 gph pump for feeds. This is how I do it for each 9x4 bed. If I have 10 beds in a room, the H20 will all be combined into 1 large watering system. The feed side will still stay separate for each bed. I can dial feeding for each strain by doing this.
I will do so. I currently have plants vegging in this mix.
I have already made additions to this soil, I will post what I did later today.
5-10ml per gallon? I use .4 tsp per gallon or 2ml per gallon. I think Avenger recommended those rates....... Maybe I will bump it up and see what happens.
what is the concentration of potassium silicate?
there are various bottled dilutions, so i find such recommendation incomplete.
but, no matter what color the bottle is that you dose from, the concentration in the working solution should not go above ~120ppm SiO2. Anything above that and you will get polymerization of the silica and thus reduced efficacy.
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led05
Chasing The Present
That level is to deal with the heat issue (which it looks like he already fixed) and to PUSH out the Na and raise the K levels quickly.
But you can easily, IMO, get away with 5ml for every G or say 1-2 ml / L regularly in your feedings, especially as you move through flowering, if you aren't hitting with other K sources, since his K was low, the 5-10ml is cool, that rate won't cause polymerization IME. Avenger is right on ppm and also correct my recommendation was incomplete in necessary details...
I think most Pot Sili jugs have recommendations for 1-2.5 ml / gallon...
It's interesting how a company doing business will actually give directions in both Imperial & Metric on the fertilizer.
I jump b/w them all the time but if an actually product I was selling, would personally choose one or the other, I digress...
I think most in here can tell by now, GrowingCrazy don't need any help but is here to help others but is just a good and decent farmer who is far too humble to come across any other way, Kudos Mitten !!
led05
Chasing The Present
Test GH.... Small but gets the job done
Test GH.... Small but gets the job done
If you then cover the in ground rows with fabric / plastic etc (Thanks Elliott C) you get another zone or two to the South, making me more like an 8 than a 5b - brrrrr, without any added heat... the colder it gets, the better it works...i.e -15 outside, positive inside and teens or 20's under fabric, now if 20-25 degrees outside inside is 30-35 and under fabric 35-40... this is WOUT any sun effects
I'm planting figs permanently in there this year after this winters testing - two years ago it got to - 24 F outside, fellas, that's fkin cold if you've never felt it, wind chill was - 40's
Test GH.... Small but gets the job done
If you then cover the in ground rows with fabric / plastic etc (Thanks Elliott C) you get another zone or two to the South, making me more like an 8 than a 5b - brrrrr, without any added heat... the colder it gets, the better it works...i.e -15 outside, positive inside and teens or 20's under fabric, now if 20-25 degrees outside inside is 30-35 and under fabric 35-40... this is WOUT any sun effects
I'm planting figs permanently in there this year after this winters testing - two years ago it got to - 24 F outside, fellas, that's fkin cold if you've never felt it, wind chill was - 40's
led05
Chasing The Present
when I said company, I was referring to whomever mfg the liquid product I use and surprised a large Corp would have both imperial and metric on their bottle, find it funny in a way... nothing toward you in case it was taken that way
anyhow, I was up in VT at a friends grow helping him out.... I'm sure some here have seen an extra leaflet growing out of the petiole up and above the other layer of leaflets, if that makes sense...
I just saw one that has a single calyx on the end of the leaflet that is growing "above" the rest... It's the first sign of F anywhere on the plant... I've seen flowers grow from the petiole of leaves (fairly infrequent though) but never a calyx on the end of a pure and healthy leaflet from there, much less the first sign on the plant, anywhere of it being Fem....
Fem? Hermie? Mutant?
to me, breeding stock..... who knows
its by far, the healthiest and most robust of any other plants, by far one month from seed...
I like to use frost cloths to extend the seasons as well, somewhat surprised at the amount of light that passes through a white fabric like that.
We had a propane tank installed this year and the guy installing it was telling me stories about how they overheat and pop off in the full sun. So I wrappped it in frost cloth, two layers, and the tank still gets pretty hot in my opinion for being wrapped in fairly thick white cloth.
Anyway, interesting about the figs. Had a neighbor start a bunch of fig tree/ bushes, at least fifty of them in two greenhouses in a 6b location in Missouri. One of the houses is heated from used cooking oil and one is geothermal heated. He started them in about 2008, when cooking oil was easier to get.
We had a propane tank installed this year and the guy installing it was telling me stories about how they overheat and pop off in the full sun. So I wrappped it in frost cloth, two layers, and the tank still gets pretty hot in my opinion for being wrapped in fairly thick white cloth.
Anyway, interesting about the figs. Had a neighbor start a bunch of fig tree/ bushes, at least fifty of them in two greenhouses in a 6b location in Missouri. One of the houses is heated from used cooking oil and one is geothermal heated. He started them in about 2008, when cooking oil was easier to get.
~star~crash~
Active member
so ...going back to page #one ... the idea is to get your soil balanced 1st , & then feed from that point on ?
led05
Chasing The Present
Try and read thru these - probably an hour or two depending on how much thought while reading you want to do...IMO I think it will help you better understand what's the Macro view of what this thread is about.
https://soils.wisc.edu/facstaff/barak/soilscience326/ioncharg.htm
https://www.spectrumanalytic.com/support/library/ff/CEC_BpH_and_percent_sat.htm
https://extension.oregonstate.edu/sorec/sites/default/files/soil_test_interpretation_ec1478.pdf
what you're saying above is correct but just the tip of the iceberg; your soil is continually in flux so knowing the "what and why" will help you out greatly I think
If the links have issues just remove the (s) from https in address bar
You need to start with high Ca and with P>K. High Ca on a light mix is around 80%. On a heavy mix, 85% Ca. Mg@10% and K @ 4% or so.
From there you push K slowly during veg. During veg prior to flowering ideally you would pushed your K up to 7 or 8%. 10 days or so prior to flowering I would push Ca back up again meaning K would fall as the numbers have to equal 100% correct?
Some guys are actually hitting with foliar Ca and seeing some amazing results and at the same time, small applications of gypsum during veg. Once into flower one should starting to push up K again. Constant applications of more Ca on the soil during flowering along with some early Mg at flip to shed some of that N, all the while watching P carefully, maybe even supplementing more.
I like to use sulpomag as a Mg source. The nice thing about this source is that it is sulfate of potassium and magnesium all bound together by nature. Very different that magnesium sulfate, which is a terrible molecule, holds water and inflates horribly when wet. Causing lots of problems in water retention.
That sounds much more simple that it is.
In Hawaii sugar cane farms in Maui they had a problem of sugar cane not growing in certain areas. The issue was Mg at more than 30%. Imagine, Mg can go toxic! I have seen reports from grows at 28 and 30%! And folks just keep dumping on more Calmag!
~star~crash~
Active member
thx slo
led05
Chasing The Present
50 fig trees is a lot, I only have 3 and it's way more than my immediate and extended family can handle, there's a lot of other fruit ripe near same time so lots of goodies to go around.
Fabric is amazing and it allows some water penetration if no plastic or poly covering. I actually wrapped my figs in containers this year in the GH with fabric and that's how I'm sure they'll be just fine in the ground, figs are very hardy just not 20 below hardy and with chilling winds, their done much below even zero unless buried well... It's the cold drying winds that kill more often than just the cold. The raised beds I have are open to earth but with a significant rock layer foundation 18 +" below everything but this allows for the enitre GH to breath and be part of earth vs just having a concrete pitched floor. The walls are filled solid with concrete, I'll never do that by mixer and hand again, ever !!!
Tough spot for a truck.
led05
Chasing The Present
Slow, I think you're an AG genius and great dude but this is overly-simplistic, doesn't always fit all Cannabis (especially the more NLD / equatorial strains) and is quite specific for something that really isn't truly a "known"...
what about the why vs. just simply saying do this? It's almost woo-wooey juice instructions
Kmag, Supplimate, Sulpomag - good stuff for sure !!
Sugar canes in Maui, in b/w the peaks, hang a left and head west, skip the Hana trap and go west, it's where it's at
~star~crash~
Active member
led, Thank you! You have helped in many ways!
Can you specify genetics on your odd duckling?
Slow, with pushing Ca through flowering, do you go apply above your calculated K numbers to get to your 6-8% base? I think that with me pushing Ca hard weeks 1-5 it is pushing enough K off the base that it never allows me to catch up, even though I am adding K along the way, just not nearly enough. By the time week 6 comes around I am basically sitting below the 3.5-4% I was at initially, and never get to the 7% goal.
CEC 28.1
PH 6.6
OM 8.1
N 182.65
P 1834.3
K 1105
Mg 845
Ca 13539.93
S 1890
Fe 349
Zn 91.715
B 8
Cu 14.6744
Na 395
Mn 117.5
NH4 18.265
The S,Fe and Na numbers are higher than I would like, but I can't do anything about that.
These are the numbers I just amended to last week ... at least in theory. Plants are in veg in the mix that were in 2 gallon pots for 3 months... once they start coming back, I will do a log on this round.
Can you specify genetics on your odd duckling?
Slow, with pushing Ca through flowering, do you go apply above your calculated K numbers to get to your 6-8% base? I think that with me pushing Ca hard weeks 1-5 it is pushing enough K off the base that it never allows me to catch up, even though I am adding K along the way, just not nearly enough. By the time week 6 comes around I am basically sitting below the 3.5-4% I was at initially, and never get to the 7% goal.
CEC 28.1
PH 6.6
OM 8.1
N 182.65
P 1834.3
K 1105
Mg 845
Ca 13539.93
S 1890
Fe 349
Zn 91.715
B 8
Cu 14.6744
Na 395
Mn 117.5
NH4 18.265
The S,Fe and Na numbers are higher than I would like, but I can't do anything about that.
These are the numbers I just amended to last week ... at least in theory. Plants are in veg in the mix that were in 2 gallon pots for 3 months... once they start coming back, I will do a log on this round.
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led05
Chasing The Present
my buddies duckling is supposedly a pure central american nld variety, whatever merit that holds these days.
9 leaves, the 10th is the anomaly (1/3rd length of others, couple inches or so long), leaflet is growing straight from the petiole, a layer above the 9 and at the very tip of leaf a Calyx, clear as day just chilling on it's own.. first 30 days from seed is 15H light, flipped 2 days ago to 11/13 .
plant is beautiful overall, smell, vigor, early leaf trich development etc
in regards to your Ca & K dilemma, I've been there, better to have to much Ca than K, that's for sure but you're right, too much Gypsum crazy will do that and once your S is too high, Gypsum becomes problematic - Pot Sili anyone
Slow, I think you're an AG genius and great dude but this is overly-simplistic, doesn't always fit all Cannabis (especially the more NLD / equatorial strains) and is quite specific for something that really isn't truly a "known"...
what about the why vs. just simply saying do this? It's almost woo-wooey juice instructions
Kmag, Supplimate, Sulpomag - good stuff for sure !!
Sugar canes in Maui, in b/w the peaks, hang a left and head west, skip the Hana trap and go west, it's where it's at
If you want to learn how to estimate when to come back with Calcium, you will have to read Conradie and Stassen from the Univ of Stellenbosch (sp?). Their research led them to look at root flushes and all plants do a new root flush at flowering. New roots don't want high K, they want high Ca. Stassen figured this out on several crops. I met Stassen in 2005 I believe in Recife, Brasil. He gave a great presentation on reading root flushes and why so many mango growers had rot problems from low calcium in their fruit. It wasn't because they were not applying Ca, it was because they were applying potassium at flowering. The K blocked the Ca uptake.
And if you look at all the woowoo juice out there, all they do is pound and pound with K. Comes to flowering, more K. Big loss of yields. The organic guys with the teas and top dressings, more and more K. Big loss of yields.
So now I have to give my reasoning too? I try to keep it simple.
Those that did use this strategy this season had pretty amazing yields and very hard nugs.
So there is the logic and the experience(s).
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