I have to double check but I think mine had a similar flower cluster structure. I was kind of expecting more/denser spots but it seems like the sacs drop a lot. *Que a Quagmire creepin' pic*
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Round Infinity
- Thread starter Avinash.miles
- Start date
veggie starts going hard:
^mostly peppers
^^
"the white room"
earth box sips, mixed strains
room i'm helping a pal with, i helped buildout & provided all the strains, lots of 24k white, some nightmare cookies, blue power, white99 and some others from the stable
^
big kiddie pools still vegging
^mostly peppers
^^
"the white room"
earth box sips, mixed strains
room i'm helping a pal with, i helped buildout & provided all the strains, lots of 24k white, some nightmare cookies, blue power, white99 and some others from the stable
^
big kiddie pools still vegging
Last edited:
ful size kiddie pools, 5 ft diameter
hold about 100 gallons of soil
hold about 100 gallons of soil
I don't know how you move those with out any help if you had to move them around.
i don't know how to move them either
so i set them up and leave them be
the plan is to pull the soil and the kiddie pools out in the spring after this run, pull up old floor and redo the room
probably will install some kind of bed system downstairs; i'm not sure how much i value being able to move my beds around.... seems cool but also maybe novelty, as long as i can get in and around the beds (i can get in and under the trellis net of these kiddie pools when i need to).
more important than mobility i think is air flow beneath the pots, perhaps setting the indoor beds up on pallets (did that in 2014 and it was possible to slide a pallet across a smooth concrete garage floor with 3 or 4 people pushing.
i've also kicked around the idea of making a big sub irrigated planter (like a PPK) with kiddie pools; would reduce runoff no nearly nil, reduce evap, use less water
but probably be even harder to move (if i wanted to make indoor beds mobile)
also always dreamed of building some soma style planter beds...
it's clear i'm still not sure what exactly to do with this room in terms of how to build the soil beds after clearing it out the old floor
i know i want about 100 gallons of soil per light, no less than 70 gallons for sure, i know i want to mount boards to the ceiling to hang lights from chains or yoyos, i know i want to take down dark paneling on one side of the room and replace with something bright, i'd like to
paint the block with killz and perhaps do some over the old ceiling as well.
aside from all THAT, i'm really trying to prep for outdoor; going to start digging holes soon and planning soil building for the outdoor.
i don't know how to move them either
so i set them up and leave them be
the plan is to pull the soil and the kiddie pools out in the spring after this run, pull up old floor and redo the room
probably will install some kind of bed system downstairs; i'm not sure how much i value being able to move my beds around.... seems cool but also maybe novelty, as long as i can get in and around the beds (i can get in and under the trellis net of these kiddie pools when i need to).
more important than mobility i think is air flow beneath the pots, perhaps setting the indoor beds up on pallets (did that in 2014 and it was possible to slide a pallet across a smooth concrete garage floor with 3 or 4 people pushing.
i've also kicked around the idea of making a big sub irrigated planter (like a PPK) with kiddie pools; would reduce runoff no nearly nil, reduce evap, use less water
but probably be even harder to move (if i wanted to make indoor beds mobile)
also always dreamed of building some soma style planter beds...
it's clear i'm still not sure what exactly to do with this room in terms of how to build the soil beds after clearing it out the old floor
i know i want about 100 gallons of soil per light, no less than 70 gallons for sure, i know i want to mount boards to the ceiling to hang lights from chains or yoyos, i know i want to take down dark paneling on one side of the room and replace with something bright, i'd like to
paint the block with killz and perhaps do some over the old ceiling as well.
aside from all THAT, i'm really trying to prep for outdoor; going to start digging holes soon and planning soil building for the outdoor.
I like to be able to turn each plant. normally I just give a 1/4 turn every day.
Perhaps some pallets and a pallet jack.
oh ya? i'd love to
have you used them before?
might just be in the plans....
I've gotta find more permanent digs. No place to keep big beds indoors in my current situation so haven't bothered.
Pallets w casters wheel attached to the corners would be easier than a pallet jack. And less equipment.
I've gotta find more permanent digs. No place to keep big beds indoors in my current situation so haven't bothered.
Pallets w casters wheel attached to the corners would be easier than a pallet jack. And less equipment.
ya that solid location is key for sure
i can't decide if the whole casters / pallet jack thing will even be worth it to me - the mobility of soil beds. i think i would personally rather just let them be stationary and ensure that i am able to get in (under) the canopy and do work once the trellis nets are hung.
this run i have left a 15 inch gap down the center of the room between trellis nets (last time they overlapped because i used 5 ft wide trellis net, this time used 4 ft wide and that left the gap in the middle)
i think this gap will make it so i can stand in the middle of the room until the canopy fills in
this way i can get around all 4 sides of the canopy AND stand up in the middle of the room when i get under the canopy and do work.
stardawg ix male is dropping pollen in the breeding tent
youve seen the beds i run right? mine are doublewide, 4x7x1. i did 18" for a bit but its unnecessary so i switched to a full 12". just a 2x4 frame (30$) and a premade modified 4x8 fabric bed (80$) theres some construction pics in my thread and 2017 album
ps i put casters on mine and it actually kinda worked with 3" casters on the 4x4 bed but they didnot work well on the 4x7. too long corner to corner especially wet. next one i build im just setting up on 3 horizontal 4x4s. mobility was a good idea but useless in all actuality. im not moving those fuckers
ps i put casters on mine and it actually kinda worked with 3" casters on the 4x4 bed but they didnot work well on the 4x7. too long corner to corner especially wet. next one i build im just setting up on 3 horizontal 4x4s. mobility was a good idea but useless in all actuality. im not moving those fuckers
If anybody plans on making beds and having them flush on the floor you might want to think about setting them on top of a 1" thermax board for a thermal break between the soil and your likely cold foundation floor. 
https://www.awarehousefull.com/dow-thermax-sheathing/
Also, how long do you let your males flower for til you pull the plug on them? I'm coming up on the beginning of week 6 and I feel like he's slowing down.
https://www.awarehousefull.com/dow-thermax-sheathing/
Also, how long do you let your males flower for til you pull the plug on them? I'm coming up on the beginning of week 6 and I feel like he's slowing down.
It can depend on when he first starts to really drop pollen. The males always finish before the females. So once he starts dropping I figure 3-4 weeks, so that would put you into week 6. I've never grown out any of the 12-16 week Sativa strains or flowered any of those males so I don't know how they play when flowering.
If anybody plans on making beds and having them flush on the floor you might want to think about setting them on top of a 1" thermax board for a thermal break between the soil and your likely cold foundation floor.
Also, how long do you let your males flower for til you pull the plug on them? I'm coming up on the beginning of week 6 and I feel like he's slowing down.
i got some of that on the floor of the breeding tent.... wish i put it under the kiddie pools in the tent also but they are doing ok despite cool feet
i generally let the male go a couple weeks after they start dropping then hack him, 3 weeks tops
If anybody plans on making beds and having them flush on the floor you might want to think about setting them on top of a 1" thermax board for a thermal break between the soil and your likely cold foundation floor.
https://www.awarehousefull.com/dow-thermax-sheathing/
View Image
Also, how long do you let your males flower for til you pull the plug on them? I'm coming up on the beginning of week 6 and I feel like he's slowing down.
I have these, with a 1/8" plywood on em covered in plastic....
If you walk on the 1" foamboard barefoot, you'll dent it all up... cant imagine walking on it with shoes...
I let em go until I'vr gotten enough pollen... sometimes full-term (in isolation)
harvested a bunch of the seed moms that were pollinated by the sour bubble male
exactly 40 days from pollination, seemed like alot of still immature seeds, but also LOADS of mature ones also. This batch was pollinated after blooming females 2 weeks before flipping the male, giving bigger buds and more seeds, but also more immature seeds that seem like they will never ripen or are so behind the mature ones that it's not feasible - some would take a few more weeks. i may regret not letting them go longer, but it was their time imo.
^catpiss x moontang pollinated by sour bubble, haven't cut this one, letting it go a little bit longer
in full swing of transplanting tomato and pepper seedlings - probably about 300 so far total
also germinating a ton of basil
kiddie pools in the tents are being de-leafed and given extra hours of dark
^ kiddie pool tent - harvest soon
^W99 bud from in the kiddie pool tent
even buds underneath the trellis net are significant:
^catpiss x moontang beneath the net
stardawg male is in full skeet mode:
^ this guy was flipped into bloom on the same day as the females he is pollinating; unlike the females of last run got a 2 week head start on the male.
exactly 40 days from pollination, seemed like alot of still immature seeds, but also LOADS of mature ones also. This batch was pollinated after blooming females 2 weeks before flipping the male, giving bigger buds and more seeds, but also more immature seeds that seem like they will never ripen or are so behind the mature ones that it's not feasible - some would take a few more weeks. i may regret not letting them go longer, but it was their time imo.
^catpiss x moontang pollinated by sour bubble, haven't cut this one, letting it go a little bit longer
in full swing of transplanting tomato and pepper seedlings - probably about 300 so far total
also germinating a ton of basil
kiddie pools in the tents are being de-leafed and given extra hours of dark
^ kiddie pool tent - harvest soon
^W99 bud from in the kiddie pool tent
even buds underneath the trellis net are significant:
^catpiss x moontang beneath the net
stardawg male is in full skeet mode:
^ this guy was flipped into bloom on the same day as the females he is pollinating; unlike the females of last run got a 2 week head start on the male.
I just noticed with mine that even though it has similar flower structure to yours (maybe just a bit denser) that the flowers really drop some pollen. I noticed that in one spot at least that the pollen is thick enough and isn't getting enough air flow right there in the isolation chamber that the pollen is molding on top of a leaf in 2 or 3 spots. I haven't seen that before in there. It's already done enough anyhow so I'm cutting off water to it and I'll let it dry itself out, pull it out of there, and harvest all the pollen. Skunk 91 males are next on deck
Room's lookin damn fine Avi.
ALL,
When I use a male on a room w/o collecting pollen for more technical placement...
I'll typically place him in the 12/12 room 1 to 2 weeks after the ladies then let him go for about a week aftet he starts dropping pollen.
My mothers treated in this way produce a shit load of viable seed as well as reduce the number of aborts (due to lack of maturity time) that get tossed.
WDI, The pollen on top of your leaves are retaining moisture. If you were planning on collecting some for the freezer, be careful that you don't contaminate a future room.
ALL,
When I use a male on a room w/o collecting pollen for more technical placement...
I'll typically place him in the 12/12 room 1 to 2 weeks after the ladies then let him go for about a week aftet he starts dropping pollen.
My mothers treated in this way produce a shit load of viable seed as well as reduce the number of aborts (due to lack of maturity time) that get tossed.
WDI, The pollen on top of your leaves are retaining moisture. If you were planning on collecting some for the freezer, be careful that you don't contaminate a future room.
