PNW Growers- Redux

[Spaceman_Spliff]

Nice, to see the year getting warmed up. Spring is here!

JasonK, I use paper towels then into peat pots once the root shows. Seems to work about as often as they pop open, which is dependant on the seeds.

Oreganic, that's like Porno for someone like me . Great frosty buds, no signs of stress at all absolutely beautiful!

MindsI, I have added red bark mulch to my soil mix with good results. Can't say it made much difference either way but it was cheap filler . Certainly didn't hurt the plants.

Peace, SSSSpaceman SSSpliff

 

[BACKCOUNTRY]

Minds I-I think Bark mulch is a low quality soil filler, but I too have used mixes with it, and it won't kill your crop.
Woodland waste product do tend to have a real low PH, and the waste may be contaminated(still kinda rare) with heavy levels of Boron, PCBs and heavy metals(Lead, Nickel, etc) if the "waste" came from a contaminated mill pond/log holding field. I think that is where the bad reputation came from, Low PH and a very few are contaminated.

I quit using off the shelf potting mixes in 1997, when I read a article in "High times" about using Organics, concerning the low quality components in some potting mixes. I started experimenting with making my own from silt and manure, and then eventually started making it from Peat and Perlite purchased in large quantities.

On a side note about the Redwoods, Oregon is indeed the only other state with natural stands of Pacific Redwood, other than California, only a very small area near the border has them here naturally.
I live in a area dominated with Douglas Fir, which is also the premier timber tree of the western US, its bark is actually what is making it into most mixes I believe, other than some made in some areas of the state of California, where Redwood bark is more common. Douglas fir does not seem to be a enemy of Cannabis in my experience.

Its kinda funny, but I took another step forward yesterday on my soil "journey", I harvested my worm bin, and used some of it to make a Super organic potting mix-

1/3 Worm castings, 1/3 Coco coir, 1/3 Perlite,
Should be good stuff I think!

Seperating the castings-


Red worms-


Mixing the soil-


New clones in the tub-

 

[Neptune]

stay away from redwood mulch, it will affect growth rates and yield in a negative manner. Do yourself a favor, spend a few bucks now and reap more rewards later.

Any money invested will come back to you 5-10 times at harvest time. Its foolish to use redwood, or doug fir, or any evergreen mulch when there are so many other options that are idealy suited for vegetables(cannabis) available.

I have experience with redwood and cannabis, just spend the bucks

 

[BACKCOUNTRY]

Very true Neptune, soils that use woodland waste are better suited to woody plants like Rhodies, Roses, shrubs,etc. They will actually love it!

 

[minds_I]

But this info conflicts with results achieved with Fox Farm OF soil. I have a email into FF for clearification on the "composted forest humus".

minds_I

 

[Spaceman_Spliff]

The reason I liked the bark in my soil mix is the root's had something meaty to grab on to. I saw no negative effects, but I didn't see positive effects either in the plant matter. The soil was less compact and retained water a little longer. I feal it's important to have many textures in your soil mix.

Peace, SSSSpaceman SSSpliff

 

[minds_I]

Neptune,

Are you refering to redwoods tendency to lower the pH of the soil?

The peat already does that whch I counter with 2 tbsn per gallon of D.lime.

Yes, I could spend the money and you are probably right with regard to payback-but I already have the Kellogg's. I hate spending money twice.

I have peat and perlite. I have high P bat shit. I will be getting myco**** fungi and mircokiddies.

I use molasses for feeding said microkiddies.

I will get ewc tomorrow and some kelp.

Now, I think that most of the bases are covered.

Its a matter of the proportions to dial it in-kiss-right?

I know the KPP is way hot so I was thinking of my veg mix this time.

50% KPP
20% EWC
30% perlite

Then for flower suppliment that with 2 tbsn high P bat shit per gallon.

Of course 2 tbsn of D.lime/gallon.

I don't know if the pH is going to plummit towards the end of flower or not with the peat and mulch but we will see. I am putting big faith in the D.lime.

Buahahahahaha, listen to me-going on like I have a clue. lol.

If the kelloggs does not pull through I will try something else different.

Thanks guys.

PS staying dry tonight in Arcata? Looks like it pouring according to TWC.

minds_I

damn: its pouring here in on the east side of the mountains. Coming down hard.

On a sidenote- when the weather breaks its going to be beautiful. In liek a lion out like a lamb.

 

[Spaceman_Spliff]

MindsI, Molasses is great! I use it in all my teas. Myco fungi is also a great idea, it's good to inoculate. I try to use a slow release and a quick release of each of the N-P-K Alfalfa Meal is my favorite slow release Nitrogen, used in conjunction with High N Bat Guano the Guano is effective untill the alfalfa meal starts to break down. For Phosphorous I use Soft Rock Phosphate and High P Guano. And for Potassium I use Green Sand and Kelp Meal. Diatomatious Earth, Dolomite lime and Corn Meal are the other ammendments I use. I rarly have to feed, once after two months with a nice tea and a couple of times in flower. I have fed tea up to every week with very little stress but I feal less is more.

Base mix goes something like this; Coco Coir, Mushroom Compost, Worm Castings and Perlite in equal proportions. Steer Manure 4 gallons, base 1 gallon manure = 5 gallons. I mix all my ammendments to this at 1 TBS per gallon each.

I agree "Organic" soils are not necessarily Organic so why buy a pre mixed bag. I contacted the Department of Agriculture and asked what I need to market my soil mix as an Organic soil... There are NO requirements to put Organic on your label, it's up to the consumer to research that, but a fertalizer is regulated. In order to get the Certafied Organic Label though you have to prove where each of your ingrediants came from and show that they were harvested in the most organic way possible, and certain organic property's that are harmful are not present either.

Peace, SSSSpaceman SSSpliff

 

[BACKCOUNTRY]

I think Coco coir is were it is at ultimatly

I'm going to be using it in my base for a long time I am sure.

SS-Have you been using that mix? It sounds pretty potent.

 

[Spaceman_Spliff]

BackCountry, I have been useing minor variations of that mix for a couple of years now and I'm very pleased with it. I once didn't feed a plant all season, it survived to produce about a quarter from a gallon pot of soil left to it's own devices. No water no food except what was in the soil, it was the picture of the purple bud I had as my avitar for a while.here's a pic of what the plant looked like after being neglected.



Peace, SSSSpaceman SSSpliff

 

[Oreganic]

Well, I figured I throw my two cents into the debate.. First of all, thats very interesting info you obtained from the department of agroculture, so with that said I guess you really just need to be careful with your soil selection. Pay attention to all the ingredients and if you can, any info on the company. Clearly there are great pre-mixed organic soils. I mean, to quote the back of my soil: Mycorrhizae fungi and other beneficial nutrients. Composted Fir Bark, Sphagnum Peat Moss, Redwood Compost, Mushroom Compost, volcanic pumice, earthworm castings, washed sand, kelp meal, bat guano, feathered meal and gypsum. Oysteshell lime and dolomite lime are added as PH adjusters. A natural wetting agent - yucca shidegera sponin has been added to help remoisten the soil.

That is the ingredients of "Edna's Finest" organic potting soil, and on the back of the package there's also a long story on Edna Stone, who originally concocted the mix back in the 50's or whatever. I guess over the years they tinkered with her recipe a little, adding things like the mychorizael fungi and a few other crazy benefitial organizms.. but indeed it's really great stuff. And I am going to have to say that I don't think MJ plants mind Redwood compost one bit. I'm personally amazed with the results. I just went to my local garden store and was like "So... whats your best organic soil?" and the lady was wayyyy helpfull and highly suggested this stuff. I now am a firm advocate and hopefully my plants show it's abilities somewhat? I mean, taking into consideration this is my first completely independent indoor grow and how amazingly easy it's been since I transplanted them into this soil at flowering. Not a single bit of stress, no deficiencies really at all and overall healthy plants that seem to just LOVE my FoxFarms Big Bloom! They be gettin' stiiiiinky..

Again, just my two cents on the situation, I think you can find great organic mixes at the nursuries. Just search them out, and know what your looking for. I was sold when she started explaining the mychorizael fungi and all it's benefits.. it's amazing! I'll never grow without it..

By the way, thanks for the props back there Spaceman Spliff, definately ganna say your plants are quite like porno for my also.. those colors...

-0r.

 

[Spaceman_Spliff]

Thanks Oreganic! Mushroom Compost has Mycorizal Fungi naturally, and also has a natural wetting agent. When I inoculate my soil I use a Compost Tea of Mushroom Compost, Boiled Alfalfa Meal, Molasses, Worm Castings, Kelp Meal and some either high P or N Guano depending on which stage the soil is for. I don't like to use pre bottled fertalizers when I know I can mix up something just as good if not better and know for sure it's 100% Organic! The most inorganic thing I use any more is Fish Emulsion and that's not inorganic at all.

BackCountry Coco Coir has rooting hormones in there also, they say a coconut can float in the ocean for 2 years, wash up on a beach and root within a short amount of time.

Peace, SSSSpaceman SSSpliff

 

[BACKCOUNTRY]

I'm really excited about using the worm castings. I've heard so much good about them!
When the weather warms up a bit, and the worm population grows again in my bins, I am going to split them off again, I want to have many bins going.
I guess I eventially want to get into using larger more advanced bins, I may even look into doing a small commercial business with them.

My personal goal is to have at least 1/5th of all my future potting soil to be worm compost, for everything I grow in a pot. I also would like to be able to use it for my regular ground crops in decent ammounts too.

 

[Oreganic]

When I inoculate my soil I use a Compost Tea of Mushroom Compost, Boiled Alfalfa Meal, Molasses, Worm Castings, Kelp Meal and some either high P or N Guano depending on which stage the soil is for. I don't like to use pre bottled fertalizers when I know I can mix up something just as good if not better and know for sure it's 100% Organic! The most inorganic thing I use any more is Fish Emulsion and that's not inorganic at all.

Ahhh very well done my friend. See, now I could only wish to have those resources at my disposal to go abosultely 100% organic.. but I simply don't have the time or the money at this stage in my life. Not that its probably THAT expensive either, it's mostly the time thing right now. I'm a student and I work.. But your wisdom is well recieved and I'll remember this when the time comes to go the whole 9 yards with my organic gig. But yeah, my setup is organic enough for me right now! Again, I'm stoked on my soil - I think I found an excellent pre-mix, personally.. And no complaints about the Big Bloom, my plants just love the stuff! Man I'm gettin so anxious.. like in about a week the first ones will go down, than the rest will perpetually following whichever is first..

So you guys got any tips for my last week of flowering? I know this can be a crucial time.. I appreciate any input, thanks! Hope the weather is nice in your neck of the woods .

-0r.

 

[Spaceman_Spliff]

Let the soil completely dry out before watering with plain water. The plant will try to protect itself from the dry conditions by coating itself in resin. Other than that just wait till the resin glands are amber or at least getting there depending on the high you are looking for.

I know what you mean about not having the money to go 100% organic each ammendment costs some and when you have 6 to 10 ingrediants it can be spendy. I have purchased my ammendments one at a time mostly over the last few years. Time though, it really does not take much longer to make a full compost tea, than it does to make a simple worm casting tea, whichever you go with though molasses should be added to help with the fermentation process.

BackCountry, I'm glad you are getting harvests off your worm beds even in the winter, what kind of worms are you useing? A buddy of mine has a large bed of native earthworms he picks up here and there. I was thinking of trying my hand at a large bed too, now that the weather is warming up I could go with red's.

Peace, SSSSpaceman SSSpliff

 

[BACKCOUNTRY]

I have red worms, I moved them inside a month or so ago to let them finish up what they had. I am impressed with what they turned out. I'm gonna figure out how to keep them all heated next winter.

 

[Spaceman_Spliff]

I wonder if you insulated the box with styrofoam if the breaking down of organic matter will raise the temp enough to keep you in the good. I hear African Nightcrawlers are the Bomb with an unbelivable appetite, those are what Kendo uses.

Peace, SSSSpaceman SSSpliff

 

[minds_I]

Hello all,

Well I have been to the new hydro store in my town. Not as much selection as the other store but I feel more comfortable in there. Plus, the guy turned me on to this tea sample that is supposed to have a 30,000 count of various benificial microbugs.

It is from Organics Alive.

http://www.organicsalive.org/organic_compost_products.html


I also got a bag of their worm casting/vegi compost.


On the sample bottle it has the same list of ingredients as the bag of castings/compost with addition of molasses.

I am thinking it is a brew rather then a tea.

Tea leachete that is oxygenated and given molasses for suger and perhaps a little oats for carbon. Keep it worm and you got yourself a micro bacterial brewing machine.

I am trying the sample out and in 40 hours I see big improvement.

I also picked up some liquid kelp:

http://www.greenair.com/bio-genesis.htm#Bio-Genesis High Tide Seaweed

I would still like to get the mycorhizal but the casting/compot is supposted to have it.

We will see.

Anyway, its a beautiful day today. Going to enjoy it I think.

Later

minds_I

 

[BACKCOUNTRY]

If I get a Greenhouse built this summer, I'll put the bins on the North wall. I want to put a small wood stove in it, for when the temps dip down too low. I may end up building it this winter(06'-07'), I guess that is one kinda house you can build in the rain.

Since rainfall has been so good this season, I am going to put out lots of seed grown plants, kinda like haxixe did, on their own essentially, in moist areas. Hell, if that works good for me, I might stop growing any other way.

I'm slowly working towards the outdoor season, my first plants out will be seedlings(the on their own plants), probably mid April, from there plantings will continue through Mid June, when I will plant my final "on their own" plants at 5000' in the mountains. I hope to get at least 3 Auto-grows this summer, and a tree grow if I can. Damn its easy to get behind!

 

[Spaceman_Spliff]

MindsI, sounds like a good product, Mycorhizal fungi will reproduce rapidly once established. If it's in the tea they are there as long as the tea stayed alive. That's my only problem with organic teas is shortly after you make them they will go bad either from lack of continuous oxygen or all the food sources are consumed. In order to market pre mixed teas they would need to preserve it somehow, but how I don't know. I thought of this when I was trying to get a mix on the market and the most effective way I could think of is selling tea bag's to soak yourself.

BackCountry, I started clearing the South side of the house this weekend for my greenhouse. Oh Yeah ! I'm stoked! Measuring things out I have room for a 12' half dome similer to Me2's . Half a dome up against the house with a heated sand floor, a pond running from the front yard through the greenhouse to the back yard, frosted glass pannels and a thermostat to control the heating. As with all my projects I'm sure it will be a slow process but I dug up a tree this weekend, What a BITCH! I'm stoked though I found a site where you type in your dimentions and they calculate your angles and strut lengths for a 1-6 frequency dome . http://www.desertdomes.com/domecalc.html . My 2 frequency (like Me2's) being half of the dome is only going to require 32 struts, plus the glass is from salvaged sliding glass doors and is $5 per peice .

I also went plot hunting this weekend and had a very rude awakening. When you drive through the mountains and see a section of clear cut timber that looks promising along the edge. It's not exactly the easiest rute to go straight through the clera cut area, like one might think ( one being me ) . WOW what looks like flat clear walking paths between the stumps is actually layers of half rotting branches and what ever else undergrowth has grown around the debris. I got virtually nowhere in 2 hours but I'm sore as hell from getting nowhere, you have to be a freaking mountain goat to traverse that kind of shit. I guess that's the idea, make your plot hard to get to, in a month this feild will be covered in Stinging Nettles, wild raspberrys and blackberrys and there's already hellacious thistles.

Peace, SSSSpaceman SSSpliff